This is a bit trickey to describe, but here goes............in the last couple of years we have had 2 incidents where one of the power lead pins has become welded to the Clipsal Power socket pin and no amount of wriggling would prize them apart. So it was either cut the power cord off, once turned off or place so much strain the pin broke away and then both sockets needed to be replaced.

The first repair took place in Wodonga and the repairer thought that with the rain storm overnight that a small amount must have entered the unit and allowed the pins to weld together........well $40 later I was very satisfied with the repairs and off we went to forget all about it, until a couple of weeks ago we were in Lithgow for a week and the same this happened again, overnight rain storm (prior the fires) and so to my Sydney repairer, similar price, but he thought it was more to do with problematic power supply than ingress of water eg electric kettle, heater & possibly microwave on at the one time and insufficient 240V supply for all units.

Anyone else had this type of problem or is it more involved than that !!

 

 

 

 

 

Santa wrote:

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Wiring problems Whiteman, get it checked out professionally before you find yourself filling out an insurance claim form.

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Hi

I MHO .that is jumping to a conclusion not based on facts !

What WIRING problem is likely to cause  a plug & socket to  locally overheat [weld together]???

That problem 99.9% of the time is due to OVERLOAD or DIRTY  CONNECTION/CONTACTS between the plug & socket causing  EXCESS local heating AT THE CONNECTION!!

The protection devices do not see THAT as a fault & do not operate ,But a fire can result at that location!

PeterQ

By the information supplied about the connected loads, I would think that the OP is talking about his inlet socket which would normally be 15 amp rated not 10. Having said that, you would be looking for excessive loading or loose/oxidised contacts in either or both the point and the cord socket. You have already had the point and socket replaced, so I hope that we can rule out 2 sparkies with limp wrists, therefore overloading is the likely culprit.

Yes, when he says "Clipsal Power socket pin" it does leave some doubt as to whether he is talking about the 10 A outlet or the 15 A inlet. whiteman can you confirm which one you are referring to.

My experience of welded socket/pin junctions are from overloading (mailny with Dometic fridges operating through small trailer plug pins) or the socket does not have enough tension. The later is common with overworked van pillar outlets. I fail to see how water could cause it, that would most likely trip the breaker.

whiteman wrote:

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[1]Oldtrack123.....absolutely no double adaptors, but don`t need to look to answer

[2]your question on load capacity, the electric kettle is 1800w, microwave 700w, heater 1 bar 600w !!

[3]Have been in a few van parks where the power pole trips out with over use, particularly in winter when everyone is on peak loads at dinner time, so maybe we should be more discriminating in future.

 

Hako....would have thought WD40 or a similar product would have been ok ??

 

[4]PeterD.....Clipsal External Unit is 15 Amps, the 10 Amp you are referring to is for domestic unit use.......what I`m trying to be clear on is the power unit in use when hooking up to 240V power in van parks.....hope that makes it crystal now.

 

-- Edited by whiteman on Monday 21st of October 2013 04:01:41 PM

-- Edited by whiteman on Monday 21st of October 2013 04:02:55 PM

-- Edited by whiteman on Monday 21st of October 2013 04:05:14 PM

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 HI

 

[1]Right, although I did think you were talking ab out an EXTERNAL 10A outlet

 

[2]Still very valid, AS excess load is the usual cause of any plug in connection over heating  made worse if the contact faces are oxidised

Your Micro wave 700W is it's output power NOT it's input power which would be nearer 1400PLUS WAtts

So IF ALL are on at the same time 1400+1800 +600=3260W

Now I would expect you would have some other smaller loads also on [lights, fridge , TV.??]which would add to that total

Putting your load right up near the connections rating

[3] If the van parks OLCBs  supplying YOUR van trips out ,THAT is a good indication  that you are drawing in EXCESS of 16A

OVERLOADING the 15A plug & socket connection.

You do need to control /limit your max load

I would suggest that you have both the INLET socket &your extension lead replaced AT the SAME time As one will only damage the other ONCE the problem has started'.

 

ANY tarnishing of the contact faces of the plug or socket will lead to heat build up AND THAT heat causes the effect to SNOWBALL

A major fire can result & certainly  has resulted from just such problems

YOU have been lucky In that it has only required the plug & socket to be replaced

WD 40 will be unlikely to be much help once burning /overheating has started

BUt certainly regular cleaning of the pins ^ soskets with wWD 40 While pushing the socket in &out

[WITH OUT POWER CONECTED ]can help in keeping them clean

BUT that will not help with the overload ,it will just delay the the problem

[4]Yes ,that does make it clearer

AND the combinaition of heavy currents, dirty /oxidised contact faces are your problem .

 

Nothing to do with the mains power supply .!!

That electrician is still a dill ,DID he tell you to get a NEW extension lead??& not to use the old one as it would damage the NEW inlet socket??

 I do hope the cable into the inlet socket was still in good condition[not damaged by heat ]after two occassions of overheating

 

PeterQ

-- Edited by oldtrack123 on Monday 21st of October 2013 11:46:10 PM

Most likely a combination of heavy load and loose contacts in the female plug on the 15A lead. The higher contact resistance causes them to heat up, which in turn tends to cause even higher contact resistance etc. etc. Eventually they get so hot that the plastic melts and the contacts weld together. Cheap leads can be a major cause, and as mentioned before, corroded contacts increase the problem.

I use 3 different lengths of power lead depending on distance from power pole in van park.........the problem on this occasion occurred in the shortest one approx. 3m & I`ve already replaced the socket with a brand new unit.

The previous time, about 2 years ago was the middle length one approx. 6m with same action taken with repairs..............memory suggests that the small lead is the newest and is used the least............all your comments are noted and appreciated.

Ontos45................Peter will take my chances on that but did use the services of a professional for the van & I`m the pro for lead repairs.

whiteman wrote:

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Ontos45................Peter will take my chances on that but did use the services of a professional for the van & I`m the pro for lead repairs.

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 There was another thread on here this month that quoted the relevant act and a post from an active nomad saying that in a park the authorities came and told c'van park owner to remove all leads from his power outputs to vans using non-compliant leads. Going to get to the stage where you won't be able to use power outputs without a current sparky inspection certificate. Remember bloody insurance companies will use any excuss not to pay up.

Just a thought.

 

Peter

Baz421....I tried not to, however if I appeared to do that my apologies........all the advice has been received in the spirit it was offered and my thanks to all.

Pushing them on under load doesn't help if done..
They are a consumable item and should be checked or replaced often..
Check leads are up to spec .. I see many leads with lower rated
capacity with 15 Amp plugs..
Make sure the lead is 15 Amp, have correct insulation for its use..

Peter, I think that was Aus-Kiwi's point, he sees many leads rated at less than 15 amps but with 15 amp plugs and sockets fitted to them.

Peter...agree, I`ve never made one up yet, have always bought commercially available ones which are clearly shown as being 15W rated.......last one was from Bunnings, but previous units from retail caravan suppliers and aside from the 2 problems referred to previously have only carried out replacement of plugs.

What is interesting to note is the external orange rubber coating varies in thickness yet the 3 leads were/are rated as heavy duty....so as a novice how do you work out which is best, dammed if I know.

 

 

 

Baz421 wrote:

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whiteman wrote:

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What is interesting to note is the external orange rubber coating varies in thickness yet the 3 leads were/are rated as heavy duty....so as a novice how do you work out which is best, dammed if I know.

 

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 Agree,, I have a 10A extension lead that is thicker than all my 15A leads,,, it is for workshop use "rated heavy duty" - not for it's electrical capacity but for hard wearing and extra insulation,,, Bunnings, colour yellow with red stripe,,, had it for a couple of years but see they are still for sale.

 

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HI

They can get confusing

An extension lead may be called "Heavy duty " due to thicker mechanical protection [insulation] OR it may be referred tas"heavy duty o because it has larger dia cables than the minimum required for it's length

THese are capable of handling short term heavy loads such as motor starting

Reduce excess voltage drop during start up