I have two Shurflo 13lpm pumps fitted to the van. One for filtered water and the other one the other items, eg sink, shower etc. The one on the filter tap had developed a habit of pulsating at irregular times while in use.
I have filled the tanks, checked for leakes/loose fittings on the suction side and have been unable to find any strainer that may restrict the flow. There are no leaks on the discharge side of the pump. The filter has been replaced (like for like) in March 13.
Has anyone got any suggestions that may assist in rectifying the problem
Got EXACTLY the same problem and have checked all things electrical, have changed the filter and checked the routing of the pipes just in case there is a kink causing it to pulsate.
After numerous afternoons tinkering I have come to the same conclusion that there is trapped air in the system, or that it is being sucked in between the pump and the tap but so far have not crawled about under the van to investigate.
Will keep you posted unless you find it before me
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Mark & Linda
A man who asks a question is a fool for five minutes, but ask no questions and your a fool for life!!
Okay, this morning I decided that today was the day, I'm gonna find the problem that has been there from day one!!
The pump has two 12V electrical connections adjacent to where the water feed "IN" pipe is situated.
Although I had previously checked the make sure I had a sufficient and constant 12 volt supply, what I didn't do is "wiggle" the wire"
So the Minister of finance turned the tap on & off whilst I "wiggled" and low and behold it ran smoothly.
Turns out that the terminal block connection INSIDE the pump housing must be loose on it's mounting and the pulsating water is "making & breaking" a good contact. So, with a bit of adjustment on the cables (straightened the wire up) and zip ties to hold them in place, the problem is rectified.
All of 10 minutes............ Beer O'clock!!
Hope this may help you. If your not sure what wires I am talking about, I'll post a picture.
-- Edited by Mark on Monday 3rd of June 2013 04:02:54 PM
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Mark & Linda
A man who asks a question is a fool for five minutes, but ask no questions and your a fool for life!!
We had exactly the same problem with shower pump,,, loose connections inside the cover. Eventually I pulled the pump a part and fixed as best I could and glued the pins on the pump if I recall but it didn't last.
Replaced the valve body from our spare pump a couple of years ago and use the old one to transfer water from ute tanks to van.
Also the 13 lpm may be a bit large for drinking water so if you have to replace in the future a 6 lpm may suit the application better.
Shurflow pump spares are available,,, see below,, but these prices look a bit high to me, however the switch assembly is only $21.44.
There should be an acumulator in the feed pipe betwean the pump & the taps, this stops pulsing of the pump.
Hi DeBe,
I have a problem with the pump cutting in & out rapidly when I only want a low flow.(Can't be good for the pump or switching mechanism). The solution at the moment is to turn the tap on more which is wasting water. I have thought an accumulator would solve this. Is there an accumulator available for the shurflo pump, or have you adapted a domestic one?
Air in the system, hold your hand under the a tap and turn on the tap as pressure builds up let go of the tap, you may need to do this a couple of times and if you have a shower you will need to do it to all taps, closest to the pump first.
Hi Pete. this one is on Ebay in Brisbane for $70 + frt. They stop the pump from cycling quickly when running a tap slowly. Quick cycling can burnout a pump motor.
There should be an acumulator in the feed pipe betwean the pump & the taps, this stops pulsing of the pump.
Hi DeBe,
I have a problem with the pump cutting in & out rapidly when I only want a low flow.(Can't be good for the pump or switching mechanism). The solution at the moment is to turn the tap on more which is wasting water. I have thought an accumulator would solve this. Is there an accumulator available for the shurflo pump, or have you adapted a domestic one?
Cheers Pete
When you use a low flow from your tap the pump will pulse on & off as there is not enough water flow to allow the pump to run full time.
This is the reason I posted the tip on fitting a relay between the micro switch & the pump motor, this takes the power load away from the micro switch & eliminates switch burnout.
JC.
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Be your self; there's no body better qualified ! "I came into this world with nothing , I still have most of it"
We have a pump on our house water tank. When we turn it on the same happens as justcruisin1 has mentioned. It pulsates because the pull through the taps is not strong enough. A plumber told us it might be because of the diameter of the pipes. All we have to do is turn another tap on and that increases the demand for water and gets it flowing through the pipes properly. We can then turn the second tap off.
We had exactly the same problem with shower pump,,, loose connections inside the cover. Eventually I pulled the pump a part and fixed as best I could and glued the pins on the pump if I recall but it didn't last.
Replaced the valve body from our spare pump a couple of years ago and use the old one to transfer water from ute tanks to van.
Also the 13 lpm may be a bit large for drinking water so if you have to replace in the future a 6 lpm may suit the application better.
Shurflow pump spares are available,,, see below,, but these prices look a bit high to me, however the switch assembly is only $21.44.
-- Edited by Baz421 on Tuesday 4th of June 2013 11:11:06 AM
Hi Baz421
Thanks for the heads up regarding the L/pm of the pumps, I didn't think of that to be honest. I'll see how long the repair lasts and if it's a failure I'll look at getting the smaller one as you suggest. Cheers for now.
Mark
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Mark & Linda
A man who asks a question is a fool for five minutes, but ask no questions and your a fool for life!!
Thanks for the replies. Sorry I haven't answered earlier, I have been off the radar for two weeks.
Four days ago in Carnarvan Gourge it (pump) operated without fault. This morning it was up to its old tricks.
I have no leaks in the pipelines on either the suction or discharge sides of the pump.
The electrical wires on the pump is firmly connected and I'm getting 12.9 volts to the pump. The navigator turned on the tap as I checked out the wiring while the pump was running, to no avail.
Turn off the water from the tank and the pump has no problems running.
The breather tube on the tank is clear. I thought it may have been blocked creating a vacuum.
Consultation with fellow GN's have failed to come up with a solution.
Like you, I will keep at it. It won't beat me. Unfortunately, the hair is getting thinner with all the head scratching.
Thanks for the replies. Sorry I haven't answered earlier, I have been off the radar for two weeks.
Four days ago in Carnarvan Gourge it (pump) operated without fault. This morning it was up to its old tricks.
I have no leaks in the pipelines on either the suction or discharge sides of the pump.
The electrical wires on the pump is firmly connected and I'm getting 12.9 volts to the pump. The navigator turned on the tap as I checked out the wiring while the pump was running, to no avail.
Turn off the water from the tank and the pump has no problems running.
The breather tube on the tank is clear. I thought it may have been blocked creating a vacuum.
Consultation with fellow GN's have failed to come up with a solution.
Like you, I will keep at it. It won't beat me. Unfortunately, the hair is getting thinner with all the head scratching.
Happy Caravanning
Brian
Brian this pump turns on/off due to the water pressure IN THE OUTLET LINE,, NOT THE INLET LINE.
The most likely problem is the pressure switch - see my post of 4 June with links to web pages.
The pump starts when you open the tap and the pressure in the line drops. The pump will only stop when you turn the tap off AND THE PRSSURE IN THE OUTLET LINE reaches A PRESET VALUE.
The pressure switch controls this NOTHING ELSE. The pressure switch is adjustable.
If the non return valve at the pump is leaking the pump can cut in and out - as the pressure drops and then rises quicky.
Good luck in solving the problem,,,, which we have.
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Why is it so? Professor Julius Sumner Miller, a profound influence on my life, who explained science to us on TV in the 60's.
Answer: The pump cycles off because the shut-off pressure of 45 PSI has been reached. If it shuts off with your faucet or shower running full open, it is seeing excessive resistance (flow restriction) in the water supply plumbing.
Question: Are there any ways to reduce system cycling?
Answer: 1.Clean or remove the water savers in your faucets and shower heads. 2.Remove as many elbows and tees as possible at the outlet of the pump, and replace with approved flexible hose (SHURflo silencer kit #94-591-01). Look for restrictive valves. 3.Increase the shut-off pressure setting of the pump by turning the adjustment screw on the switch clockwise 1/2 turn. Note: We recommend this be done by a qualified service technician. 4.Install a SHURflo accumulator tank to reduce cycling, keep water flow constant and even out temperature fluctuations.
Question: The pump runs when there is no demand for water. How can I fix this?
Answer: 1.Purge all the air in the system and check for leaks in your faucets or lines. If no leaks exist, you may have debris in the check valve/switch or valve assembly. 2.Clean debris or replace the check valve or valve assemblies.
Cheers Baz
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Why is it so? Professor Julius Sumner Miller, a profound influence on my life, who explained science to us on TV in the 60's.
That's good news, and thanks for sharing the solution with us. Mine too has been good since I tinkered with the connections, quite good that one post has led to two sures eh!! Regards
Mark
-- Edited by Mark on Thursday 4th of July 2013 12:08:51 AM
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Mark & Linda
A man who asks a question is a fool for five minutes, but ask no questions and your a fool for life!!
When we got to Townsville I did a bit of plumbing. In fact I replaced most of the pipework from the tanks to the pumps. I shortened some of the pipework and replaced the press on clamps with band clamps. I have no more problems. The pumps been working without fault for the past two weeks.
The press on clamps may have been the problem, allowing air to be sucked in through the joints while drawing water from the tanks.