Hi guys, by now I realise that there are a few Avan owners on the the forum and I am wondering if anyone has had to replace the high density adhesive foam on side roof panels?(inside/lower edge of L shaped aluminium facing down when closed and latched)
My forward panel looks ok, however the rear panel definately needs to be replaced. I contacted Avan and was told that the foam is 3/4 x3/4 h/density.........maybe thats so for the front, but the rear foam is less & measures more around 15mm tops! Avan is 4 years old and some compression has taken place. Looking around at Bunnings I couldnt find anything around the 15mm x 15mm mark. Any suggestions/tips appreciated.
For the information of non Avan owners, the front roof panel folds "over"rear panel, therefore the gap is greater at the front and narrower at the rear, but the rear measure's between 12-15mm (some distortion )
Not quite exactly sure what piece you mean (we have an Avan Cruiser)...picture? Also is does the damaged foam cause a problem or is it cosmetic or may cause a problem?
Hi guys, by now I realise that there are a few Avan owners on the the forum and I am wondering if anyone has had to replace the high density adhesive foam on side roof panels?(inside/lower edge of L shaped aluminium facing down when closed and latched)
My forward panel looks ok, however the rear panel definately needs to be replaced. I contacted Avan and was told that the foam is 3/4 x3/4 h/density.........maybe thats so for the front, but the rear foam is less & measures more around 15mm tops! Avan is 4 years old and some compression has taken place. Looking around at Bunnings I couldnt find anything around the 15mm x 15mm mark. Any suggestions/tips appreciated.
For the information of non Avan owners, the front roof panel folds "over"rear panel, therefore the gap is greater at the front and narrower at the rear, but the rear measure's between 12-15mm (some distortion )
Thanks in advance,
ozi2
Get the "Closed Cell" type seal From Clarkes.
If you are a a Member of the Avan Club Australia you can peruse the Avan website for this subject certain it has been covered.
I have had to renew all my seals on the Cruiseliner (2005) Think the seals used originaly were not Closed Cell type foam.
Not quite exactly sure what piece you mean (we have an Avan Cruiser)...picture? Also is does the damaged foam cause a problem or is it cosmetic or may cause a problem?
G'day Hako, yes, the damaged foam can be a problem as it is a weatherproofing seal and not cosmetic.
When you have your roof panels in the horizontal position and latched, run your finger along inside lower edge of aluminium edging, or bend down and look under and you will see a foam strip. You should be able to see if it has deteriorated, ie, torn, stretched, etc or like my rear panel almost completely "rotted"away. On the road it is subjected to water, grit, oils etc and probably worth checking out in your maintainence schedule.
Hi Mike and thanks for the info re type of foam. My rear foam both sides has totally disintegrated and needs replacing.
I havent joined Avan club yet but at $30 initial joining fee it wont be a burden given the knowledge base available on how to jobs. My biggest issue really is getting the best size foam as it varies front to back on rear roof panel , ie 15mm down to 12mm, I guess this is down to movement in the frame.
Put some masking tape on the panels at the ends of the tape to mark the positions. It makes it easier when putting the new stuff back on in the correct place.
Make sure the Nylon (Polystone) guides are still in place at the end of the Top Roof Panel.
Had a look at mine and they are torn and worn - I noticed this when we bought the van but figured they were just to prevent the 2 L pieces of aluminium from rubbing against each other. Maybe I was wrong, however we've done about 6000km with them in this condition - gone through a bit of rain (not torrential) and plenty of dusty roads with no ill effects. So is an absolutely necessary fix? Re the Avan club, I too thought the $30 was a bit much especially when it seems to offer no more than this forum for example. I emailed the secretary and asked if they had a forum where one could ask about fixes/repairs etc and never even got a reply - this was about 6 weeks ago. From what the Avan club home page says it seems to be a bit of a social club more than a 'fix-em-up' type of setup, but I could be completely wrong. Here is another good yank site run by Dave Madsen who has done heaps to his van and is very helpful - prices they pay over there are a fraction of ours!!!! http://theoleguy.blogspot.com.au/ Regards Denis
If in WA there are two places to buy the foam in the Perth area, George Day Caravans http://www.georgeday.com.au/ or WA Avan at Guildford (also known as Offshore Marine) closing soon I believe and all parts going to GD). http://www.avanwa.com.au/
The foam is mainly to keep out dust, insects, draught etc. Another thing to consider is the nylon strips you can also buy which help your panels slide over each other when closing the roof down and putting up etc, they wear or come off after awhile too and adding extra bits certainly help with the lifting by stopping the aluminium edging from sticking. In the past, I also replaced some of my foam bits, the stuff you get from Avan repairers/parts already has adhesive on one side (peel off protecting skin) for easy attachment, making sure old surface is clean etc.
I was a member of the Club for 7 years, members can attend any Avan Club rally in any state and an Australian wide guide to rallies, dates, contacts etc is put in their regular newsletters. At $20 per annum membership and $10 joining fee, it is one of the cheapest clubs in Oz and well worth joining. Please note it is not for caravans, only Avan folding type camper trailers. The club started like that before Avan started making caravans and members voted to keep it for the A shaped folding camper trailers. And yes they do have info for members on repairing etc once you have joined.
Here is one NSW break away Avan group that has all types of Avan RV's eligible as members, see;
G'day Duh, thank you for your post and comments; along with fellow posters I have been able to source the tape for the job..........now comes the messy bit of cleaning old adhesive and fiddly access but a pretty cheap outcome at around $40.00 for all items including acetone, scraper.
Put some masking tape on the panels at the ends of the tape to mark the positions. It makes it easier when putting the new stuff back on in the correct place.
Make sure the Nylon (Polystone) guides are still in place at the end of the Top Roof Panel.
-- Edited by elliemike on Wednesday 12th of December 2012 08:34:44 PM
Hi Mike, I sourced the tape from Clark Rubber and as per your suggestion chose the closed cell tape.
For interested forum members the closed cell adhesive code number is EPDM 414. For my purposes I chose 12 x 12mm tape for rear roof panel gap, your gap sizes could vary so best to measure before purchase. Expect to pay around $6.75 mt at Clark rubber.
Damn ,,, we need an Avan ,,, you guys have so much fun with them
What a great pastime they are
Cheers
Yep great little camper.
This year we did the Outback Way (Well lets say Perth to Noosa via the Outback Way) Then up to Lakefield National Park and back to Perth via the Savannah Way, Gibb River Road Derby Broome etc.
G'day Duh, thank you for your post and comments; along with fellow posters I have been able to source the tape for the job..........now comes the messy bit of cleaning old adhesive and fiddly access but a pretty cheap outcome at around $40.00 for all items including acetone, scraper.
Cheers mate,
ozi2
Personally I wouldn't use acetone anywhere near the van as it will damage paint and lift transfers/stickers if spilt - kero or turps will soften and remove the old adhesive and not dry as rapidly as acetone.
yep, you are right regarding acetone; I had the van taped and covered for that reason but guess what? The acetone was as useless as the proverbial you know what.......it barely budged the remnants, whereas good old wd40 worked a treat.
I finally finished the job this morning, went with original quoted size of 3/4 inch (nearest metric) as the degraded foam had compressed. Nice tight seal but a proper PITA job as access is not easy.
ozi2 i have had some success with using wd40 to remove transfers and the gum residue if it is not totally sucessful at least it is not agressive toward paint brian
ozi2 i have had some success with using wd40 to remove transfers and the gum residue if it is not totally sucessful at least it is not agressive toward paint brian
Same here, use it always for removing adhesive e.g. foam seals.
Good for getting selastic or sikaflex off your hands as well. I have the ability to get more glue, sealant or paint on me, than on the job when using these items.
WD40 is my hand cleaner when doing those sort of jobs.