Toyota Hiace - auto/manual and petrol/diesel??

BillieBoyle · Member

Toyota Hiace - auto/manual and petrol/diesel??

Possum3 · Guru

Check out all the Hiaces since conception and get the full list of features en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Toyota_HiAce very interesting when you get to later models.

Remember a lot of these vans come into Australia as Grey Imports (vans originally used in Japan and exported after three years due to Govt Regulations) - In most cases there is nothing wrong with Grey Imports and they tend to be lower mileage than Original Aust imports. The downside is usually that parts have to be specifically imported if something goes amiss.

My personal choice would be a petrol/automatic - and I wouldn't consider a common rail diesel because of exorbitant cost of motor strip down if you get a load of crappy fuel and it get past the fuel filter.

If buying a camper van version ensure it is fitted with a camper conversion compliance plate - there are a lot of homemade campers that are not compliant which could cause problems when registering.

I used to own a diesel Mitsubishi 4WD van - I reckon I would still be driving it other than an altercation with an Emu. It was fitted with bull bars but it struck right on corner LH - Insurance Company wouldn't agree to repair so wrote it off.

Look at the WikiList decide what configuration would best suit - Hope to see you out there.

Aus-Kiwi · Guru

Latter model autos are fine . Just be aware of servicing when it comes to exhaust and tow in sport mode depending on model ? Or not top Gear. Most transmission have high gearing for fuel economy . But not too great for durability as engine is labouring along . The choice is really what YOU want !! Autoâs kick down better when towing !! Depending how you drive ?

BillieBoyle · Member

Thanks for the link Possum3. I didn't think to look at Wiki.
Yeah, might be best to stick petrol .

Franglen · Member

BEWARE! We bought a 1999 Petrol 5 speed Manuaal Camper van from a German couple. It was built by a mob that caters mainly backpackers. There was a constant smell of petrol in the van. Very strong if the van had been locked up for any length of time. We got our mechanic to check it out. It turned out that when they screwed the brackets into the floor for the seat/bed frame, the screws they used were too long and went straight into the fuel tank! We couldn't afford $800 for a new tank so got it plugged with 2 pack epoxy ex Supercheap Auto.

Emailed the company who built the thing but did not get a reply

Plus make sure you get it fully checked by your own mechanic before you nuy it, even if it has a RWC. We got stung and it has ended up costing us an extra $3000 to repair the thing.

Tyres/Radiator/Balljoints to name a few items.

At least we know it's roadworthy now (want to be after what we spent on it) and have built extra storage cabinets and fitted it to our liking. She flies and is a pleasure to drive. Just make sure you check the towing capacity of whatever you get because I don't think they have a very high rating.

Frank

AndyCap100 · Veteran Member

Hi ,Billy boyle, probably don`t need advice on this anymore but here`s my 2 penneth just in case . i owned a Hiace for 17 yrs ,Jap import,1992,2.9 ltr diesel for my business, (stonework )with a manual 5 speed box .Did over 500,000km here in NZ ,working in quarries ,transporting heavy stone around,about 1 ton in back of van + on a double axle trailer 1.5 tonne NO problems,even over our mountain passes ,pulled like a bloody train . Only major cost in all this time 1 g/box rebuild . Servicing every 5000 km a must .
Retired a few yrs ago,so bought a 2009 Hiace, 100,000kms on clock .Petrol ,2ltr ,auto box just to potter about in ,move the kids from flat to flat etc . BLOODY USELESS .!! NO GRUNT . Has a job to pull a half ton single axle trailer from stand still without spinninng the wheels ,even just the van it`s rubbish on steep hills especially in the wet .Worst vehicle i`ve ever owned. Oh, and thirsty on the ole juice too . DIESEL RULES IN MY OPINION . regards. Andy .

-- Edited by AndyCap100 on Thursday 27th of September 2018 04:19:09 PM

PeterD · Guru

BillieBoyle wrote:
Manual has more power over an auto.... but I do like "D" for go. Does the auto have enough power for a fully laden van?

Look at this link.

I would be looking at the torque figures more than the power ones. The following comes from there.

The 2.5 and subsequent 3.0-litre turbodiesel KD engines have a maximum output of 80 kW at 3,400 rpm and 106 kW at 3,400 rpm and maximum torque of 260 Nm at 1,6002,600 rpm and 300 Nm at 1,2003,200 rpm respectively. The 2.0 L and 2.7 L TR petrol engine has a maximum output of 100kW at 5,600 rpm and 118 kW at 5,200 rpm respectively and a maximum torque of 182 Nm and 243 Nm both at 4,000 rpm.

As you can see the torque of the diesel engines is far better and develops at lower engine speeds. If you get a petrol engine is will out perform a diesel but you will have to stir the gear stick and keep the motor reving at high speeds to keep up with a diesel in undulating country.

I would go for the diesel. I don't expedrience most of the perceived problems with any of my diesel engines that are listed above.