I don't know why but it seems my van is in love with the tow ball. When I stop and try to unhitch the jockey wheel lifts the van yet try as I may, it won't let go of the tow ball. I have tried using extra grease on the tow ball but that makes no difference. It is the same tow ball I have used all along and it used to release OK. Any suggestions would be most welcome.
When you detach the trailer, the towing vehicle and the trailer must be on a level surface, as well as level with each other. If you don't do this, the hitch will bind on the ball, and it may be difficult or impossible to disengage the hitch. If the trailer is equipped with a crank stand, removal is accomplished by lowering the stand far enough that the trailer's weight is supported (but not so far that the trailer is raised relative to the tow vehicle), then releasing the locking lever, raising the trailer further so that the hitch is clear of the ball, then driving the tow vehicle a few feet forward.
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Possum; AKA:- Ali El-Aziz Mohamed Gundawiathan
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When I was younger. (Till 70 or so.) Just hop up on the rear of patrol and bounce on rear bar. It "normally" Pops out. But there again. I also laid 3.75 full tinny against rear of car. Picked up the Transom above my head and slid it onto rack.
Nowadays. Yea. Ha Ha. Winch.
Stop rig. You normally have trailer under load. Van brake on. slightly release car parker then reapply. THAT. normally takes load off. and ball pops out If you wound up the jack to that height and removed WDH. Then just lower jack.
If slightly up or down angle.
Stop. Apply the lower veh brake. Slightly do same then reapply the higher one. I.E. Let one roll slightly into other. About 1\4 to 1\2 an inch. That "normally" releases the load.
Some ball CUPS. Have forward lips cast in them. Feel with your fingers. Hyland were bad for that with the 3.5 ton one.
Grind it out. THEY hold on pretty hard. Basically. No matter how you do what. The idea is to unload strain from front of cup. Ball then Usually. drops out.
Have fun.
-- Edited by macka17 on Saturday 24th of June 2017 11:17:20 AM
-- Edited by macka17 on Saturday 24th of June 2017 11:29:15 AM
I find simply lowering and raising the Jockey wheel once again after it has not released does the trick...seems to release its 'hold' and you can start over...Hoo Roo
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Possum is correct with the method of removing the van from the ball but to me your difficulty may be caused by a badly adjusted screw in the top of your receiver. Suggest you undo the locknut and with a screwdriver loosen the adjusting screw a full turn.The receiver should then come away much easier. The adjusting screw is really an anti rattle device which has caused numerous people headaches.
-- Edited by patrol03 on Saturday 24th of June 2017 11:22:41 AM
Thanks Possum,Goldie, Macka and Patrol. I will give that a try. I generally travel solo so I end up being a contortionist standing on the tow bar whilst trying to wind the jockey wheel up to release van from the tow ball. I do this as an encore after a bit of solo reversing. One gets to meet a lot of people doing this and certainly keeps them smiling.
Hi DMaxer, take the hand brake off the car. This allows the cars some movement forward and aft when the van is hard up against the ball. Your van will love the towball in a different way.
Cheers, John.
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"My mind is made up. Please don't confuse me with facts."
we just had awful trouble after trying the flat plate option on hydraulic jack/jockey wheel that came with van. Went on/off easy on level, but no way would it come off when ground at angle. So back to wind up jockey wheel and a big bounce to get unhitched. Have now adjusted towball angle as well on Hayman Reese WDH, so will test that soon. Also no handbrake on (auto tug) and chocked van wheels finally.
I had the same as you on our first trip last year in the new van.
Buggered my back screwing the Jockey wheel up. Make saw the retainer spring clip on the coupling housing, is sitting fully extended on top of the coupling, or else it wants not to release.
Q. Is your winder stiff to turn. If so when the Jockey wheel is off, unwind the screw in total and spray with WD 40 or similar and then grease.
On our return We had 283kg on the ball instead of the stated 206kg.
I have brought a Trail mate now, but yet to try it as we have been away to WA for 10 weeks with the boat. I had the same issues till I sprayed the Jockey wheel screw, which was stiff to use.
If my towhith has pressure on it and doesn't come straight up, I wind the jockey wheel up and then wind down so it has a bit of pressure trying to lift off, jump in the vehicle and go forward/back a few mil and it will pop off so its about halfway up the ball thus releasing it. I always leave the safety chains on while doing this just incase I have misjudged the upward pressure I have put on it and it disengages the towball all together, Clear as mud
cheers
blaze
Regarding those "Trailermate" Jacks.
Gave my last one to mate. Thort I was finished with vans
and he just bought one.
Dumb as. Hey.
$350=400 to replace.. Whoop's.
I've ordered a 3 ton double acting Hydraulic jack for engine lifting cranes.
Can't find lighter 650 long ext 420mm.(zillions of 8 ton.)
$67 del.
Base plate and make up a lifting point on drawbar. $25 max
Wheel I already have. $100\110 and a bit of time.
Plus. with bit of fiddling.
Nice long jack for both sides of van. and ute.
Thanks everyone for the words of wisdom. My DMax is a manual and the van weighs about 2 tonne loaded up. I will give these methods a try and I am sure things will only improve. I will also give the jockey wheel a touch of WD40 as suggested. Tell me, can all jockey wheels be greased. I don't remember seeing any access point or grease nipple on my one. If the suggestions work I guess the only entertainment I will be to provide in future is my reversing with the van on.
I read somewhere and I think on the forum at some stage to use plastic shopping bags instead of grease. I must admit though I rub a little grease around the tow ball it self and at times have a problem of the van lifting off but all good in the end with a bit of elbow grease while winding the jockey wheel up.
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There is normally a few mm slop available to your ball and van coupling but if there is any fore/aft load then they will behave like mating dogs and remain locked together. The secret is to allow the tug/car to have some forwards/aft movement whilst you are lifting off the coupling.
Before turning car engine off, go pull the van's handbrake on good and hard. Chock wheels if that is what you normally do to feel secure, personally I don't use chocks unless on a slope.
My tug is auto so after van is hand-braked firmly I get back in the tug and select neutral and gently let foot off brake pedal (to allow tug to settle with no load). After settling the tug I swiftly select park and turn off the engine.
The tug handbrake is always left 'off' until after de-coupling.
PS. The chains only come off once I am sure the van is not going to roll away. :)
