After Checking there is power to the Toilet Fuse and Water pump switch is OK.. ( Hopefully one of these is the problem)
Easy part buying the pump But according to Thetford Instructions, cut the existing cable to the pump, remove, and join the new pump cable/pump, need to use 2:
Waterproof Solder Seal Heat Shrink Sleeve wire Butt Terminals. see below, never done such a job B4 and a friend who has more practice in such is also wary of using these connectors.
I will try, if it comes to the cable join, keep the joint out of water but its the condensation could still create a short circuit.
From memory additional Thetford instructions. Heat Shrink should also cover the 2 joins and the plastic cable cover on both sides of the join. ( I will cover the ends with silicon)
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/305226878294
Comments appreciated.
TimTim said
10:57 PM Mar 17, 2025
They are waterproof joiners and commonly used in marine environments. I have used them on my boat. If your are worried though and plan to use heat shrink over these joiners then use the glue lined heat shrink which will shrink down to 1/3 the diameter.
Peter_n_Margaret said
10:00 AM Mar 18, 2025
I got rid of the toilet water pump and plumbed it into the main water system, also bypassing the thetford tank.
The thetford system is more trouble than it is worth. No more problems.
Cheers,
Peter
PeterInSa said
12:05 PM Mar 18, 2025
Thanks, Re (glue lined heat shrink which will shrink down to 1/3 the diameter.)
Re (plumbed it into the main water system)
The Thetford in our Caravan has this setup. The Sprinter Campervan has a Bench type Thetford C2? and would be a pain to convert.
valiant81 said
09:13 AM Mar 19, 2025
Peter_n_Margaret wrote:
I got rid of the toilet water pump and plumbed it into the main water system, also bypassing the thetford tank. The thetford system is more trouble than it is worth. No more problems. Cheers, Peter
Hi all; I also did the same in my own caravan. i used a 12 volt water solenoid valve ( E bay ) and did away with the way with the original water pump. Has worked for the last 2 + years and no problems. Our toilet is a Thetford C-402.
-- Edited by valiant81 on Wednesday 19th of March 2025 09:18:36 AM
Scubadoo said
11:51 AM Mar 19, 2025
I may well do the same when the used daily and so far completely trouble free original 15 year old C-402 water pump eventually gives up the ghost. Where is that wood!
PeterInSa said
05:48 PM Mar 20, 2025
Proved its not a power problem to the Fuse in the Toilet. 13.3v is at the terminals. But heaven help me, if the power to this terminal block ( B4 the toilet fuse) goes missing, Because I cannot find where its power/Fuse comes from, would need to connect power to underneath the Sprinter to connect up to the cable that goes to the Toilet Terminal block.
Hi Tim, spoke to my local Jaycar store about using Solder Splice Heat shrink joins x3 and put the lot and the cable sheaths on either side of the join into the Marine Adhesive Heat Shrink.
He thought the weakness was the Solder Splice Heat Shrink, it could leak, if there is a problem with the outer Marine heatshrink.
Could I just joint/twist/solder the copper wires separately x 3 and use a smaller size of Marine Heat Shrink for each join and use a larger size over the 3 joins and cable sheath covers on either side of the join.
If you are going to replace the pump, why join the cable in the water tank? Make the join in the compartment that houses the pump electronics. Makes a lot of sense to me as there is already exposed electrical terminals in there that have been operating quite well up until now.
PeterInSa said
04:34 PM Apr 4, 2025
jj, Thanks, I will look in it but Thetford standard way is to cut and join, I think I will do below and if that does not work buy another pump and do the disassembly.
Join/twist/solder the copper wires separately x 3 and use a smaller size of Marine Heat Shrink for each join and use a larger size over the 3 joins and cable sheath covers on either side of the join.
PeterInSa said
11:02 AM Apr 6, 2025
For Info, I will use 2 layers of glued Heat shrink, 1 over each wire join and one over the lot. He may have well done this also but did not comments.
After Checking there is power to the Toilet Fuse and Water pump switch is OK.. ( Hopefully one of these is the problem)
Easy part buying the pump But according to Thetford Instructions, cut the existing cable to the pump, remove, and join the new pump cable/pump, need to use 2:
Waterproof Solder Seal Heat Shrink Sleeve wire Butt Terminals. see below, never done such a job B4 and a friend who has more practice in such is also wary of using these connectors.
I will try, if it comes to the cable join, keep the joint out of water but its the condensation could still create a short circuit.
From memory additional Thetford instructions. Heat Shrink should also cover the 2 joins and the plastic cable cover on both sides of the join. ( I will cover the ends with silicon)
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/305226878294
Comments appreciated.
They are waterproof joiners and commonly used in marine environments. I have used them on my boat. If your are worried though and plan to use heat shrink over these joiners then use the glue lined heat shrink which will shrink down to 1/3 the diameter.
The thetford system is more trouble than it is worth. No more problems.
Cheers,
Peter
www.temu.com/au/127-piece-waterproof-heat-shrink-tubing-kit-3-1-marine-grade--lined-black--wrap-assortment-for-electrical-connections-g-601099577891654.html
Re (plumbed it into the main water system)
The Thetford in our Caravan has this setup. The Sprinter Campervan has a Bench type Thetford C2? and would be a pain to convert.
Hi all; I also did the same in my own caravan. i used a 12 volt water solenoid valve ( E bay ) and did away with the way with the original water pump. Has worked for the last 2 + years and no problems. Our toilet is a Thetford C-402.
-- Edited by valiant81 on Wednesday 19th of March 2025 09:18:36 AM
Hi Tim, spoke to my local Jaycar store about using Solder Splice Heat shrink joins x3 and put the lot and the cable sheaths on either side of the join into the Marine Adhesive Heat Shrink.
He thought the weakness was the Solder Splice Heat Shrink, it could leak, if there is a problem with the outer Marine heatshrink.
Could I just joint/twist/solder the copper wires separately x 3 and use a smaller size of Marine Heat Shrink for each join and use a larger size over the 3 joins and cable sheath covers on either side of the join.
www.jaycar.com.au/2-7mm-solder-splice-heatshrink-pack-of-5/p/WH5670
Thanks
Join/twist/solder the copper wires separately x 3 and use a smaller size of Marine Heat Shrink for each join and use a larger size over the 3 joins and cable sheath covers on either side of the join.
www.youtube.com/watch