My dometic, 8551 model, fridge works fine on 240v and freezer works OK on gas, but fridge won't get below 12/14 degrees on gas. Any suggestions, please.
Possum3 said
12:22 PM Nov 18, 2023
Welcome to the Forum Bill,
I suspect that the fridge isn't getting any cool air at the back of fridge, or is parked with fridge side in the sun.
Absorbtion fridges require good air flow around them.
You didn't advise whether it is a tropical fridge or not (T next to model) made for Australia's high temps.
What is the ambient temperature at your location?
Billabb said
04:27 PM Nov 18, 2023
Don't know if it's tropical, but have had fridge/Van for 3 yrs, only had trouble in recent 3 wk trip away where the ambient temps were only up to mid 20s and had a fridge shade up on any sunny day. Fridge consistently operated at 10 plus. Freezer worked fine. Only used gas for those 3 wks away, pluged into 240 after getting home and got down to 4 degrees o/nite.
Cupie said
09:22 AM Nov 19, 2023
I had a situation where my 3 way performed like yours ie. OK on 240, but not on gas.
In my case the problem was the 'elbow' at the top of the hot air vent pipe had come adrift and wasn't venting hot air out into the atmosphere. This was critical with gas operation. The hot exhaust air circulating round the back of the fridge was the issue.
I put it back in place & secured it with a small self tapper.
Bush walker said
01:39 PM Nov 21, 2023
I had the same problem on mine on a prevous trip. Your probelm will most likey be like mine, a partical blockage in the gas jet. You can gain acess it from the bottom air vent and it is easy to remove the jet blow it out and replace it
PeterInSa said
06:32 PM Nov 22, 2023
Re ( a partical blockage in the gas jet) Most Likely.
And if that does not fix it, have the burner cleaned, replace the regulator and the hoses to the gas bottles.
Cupie said
07:15 PM Nov 23, 2023
PeterInSa wrote:
Re ( a partical blockage in the gas jet) Most Likely.
And if that does not fix it, have the burner cleaned, replace the regulator and the hoses to the gas bottles.
Good advice WRT the regulator. I know from bitter experience.
My Gas HWS would light the pilot burner but not the full burner jet. Eventually replaced the HWS for around $600 & then found that the problem was a gunked up regulator!
The guy at the specialist Gas shop confirmed that regulators are a common source of problems. It seems that the additive that gives it an odour also gunks up the regulator & perhaps pipes in about 5 years of use.
Should have involved my son (who has a Gas licence) earlier.
Brodie Allen said
06:46 PM Dec 7, 2023
Billabb wrote:
My dometic, 8551 model, fridge works fine on 240v and freezer works OK on gas, but fridge won't get below 12/14 degrees on gas. Any suggestions, please.
But he says that the freezer works ok.
The fridge proper is the problem.
Dissipation fins blocked with produce?
B
Cupie said
10:55 PM Dec 7, 2023
Oops, didn't look closely enough. I do that a lot these days.
I would look at things like door seals, perhaps a small computer fan pointing towards the fins to circulate the air inside the fridge section when the door is closed.
I have had good success in using labelled plastic containers for all food in the fridge. Very little cool air is lost when the door is opened.
Does the freezer section ice up? If so need to find out why (door not closing properly or seals beggared) or too much moisture rich external air getting into the fridge ... in the meantime de-ice regularly.
Of course - restrict the time the door is open .. good luck with that.
-- Edited by Cupie on Thursday 7th of December 2023 10:57:41 PM
Dick0 said
12:42 PM Dec 8, 2023
Hi Bill, after 10 years I too was having a similar problem.
I was advised to check the following:
Firstly, the Temp Sensor attached to the fins. Check correctly attached.
Secondly, the door seals should not have splits/cracks and must be very clean.
Thirdly, the gas jet and the gas solenoid valve.
This is what I did:
Firstly, replaced freezer & fridge seals which were in poor condition. Horrible job that will test your patience. Slight improvement in performance.
Secondly, checked gas jet for dirt/obstruction, all good there. Checked gas solenoid valve and found looseness in adjustment/turn-off valve.
The solenoid would loosen after operation and travel and resulted in closing off much of the gas flow.
Replaced the whole inflow component which includes the solenoid. Much improvement to gas flow, burn capacity and strong flame with yellow tips. Main problem was here.
Thirdly, after all returned to normal operation, I followed advice to disconnect Temp Sensor from fins and place sensor in other part of fridge, within reach.
The sensor now rests below the light, away from the fins, and all my cooling problems disappeared. Never operated so well in the past.
Fourthly, I checked the gas regulator. Was advised to run gas stove top burners and check for any yellow tip flames. Yep, had yellow tips.
So, adjusted the regulator screw slowly until perfect blue flames only.
Also:
I run three 120mm computer fans to exhaust hot air at back of fridge. They are located in top external fridge vent.
The fans are connected to a programmable on/off temp sensor. On at 55C and off at 50C. Runs like a Swiss clock on gas.
FYI, I have a dual wireless temp sensor for Fridge/Freezer to monitor temp variations according to ambient external temps and I can then adjust the pre-set temp control of the fridge accordingly.
All the replacement parts, sensors and fans I purchased from Ebay from Aussie sellers.
I suspect that the fridge isn't getting any cool air at the back of fridge, or is parked with fridge side in the sun.
Absorbtion fridges require good air flow around them.
You didn't advise whether it is a tropical fridge or not (T next to model) made for Australia's high temps.
What is the ambient temperature at your location?
I had a situation where my 3 way performed like yours ie. OK on 240, but not on gas.
In my case the problem was the 'elbow' at the top of the hot air vent pipe had come adrift and wasn't venting hot air out into the atmosphere. This was critical with gas operation. The hot exhaust air circulating round the back of the fridge was the issue.
I put it back in place & secured it with a small self tapper.
I had the same problem on mine on a prevous trip. Your probelm will most likey be like mine, a partical blockage in the gas jet. You can gain acess it from the bottom air vent and it is easy to remove the jet blow it out and replace it
And if that does not fix it, have the burner cleaned, replace the regulator and the hoses to the gas bottles.
Good advice WRT the regulator. I know from bitter experience.
My Gas HWS would light the pilot burner but not the full burner jet. Eventually replaced the HWS for around $600 & then found that the problem was a gunked up regulator!
The guy at the specialist Gas shop confirmed that regulators are a common source of problems. It seems that the additive that gives it an odour also gunks up the regulator & perhaps pipes in about 5 years of use.
Should have involved my son (who has a Gas licence) earlier.
But he says that the freezer works ok.
The fridge proper is the problem.
Dissipation fins blocked with produce?
B
Oops, didn't look closely enough. I do that a lot these days.
I would look at things like door seals, perhaps a small computer fan pointing towards the fins to circulate the air inside the fridge section when the door is closed.
I have had good success in using labelled plastic containers for all food in the fridge. Very little cool air is lost when the door is opened.
Does the freezer section ice up? If so need to find out why (door not closing properly or seals beggared) or too much moisture rich external air getting into the fridge ... in the meantime de-ice regularly.
Of course - restrict the time the door is open .. good luck with that.
-- Edited by Cupie on Thursday 7th of December 2023 10:57:41 PM
Hi Bill, after 10 years I too was having a similar problem.
I was advised to check the following:
Firstly, the Temp Sensor attached to the fins. Check correctly attached.
Secondly, the door seals should not have splits/cracks and must be very clean.
Thirdly, the gas jet and the gas solenoid valve.
This is what I did:
Firstly, replaced freezer & fridge seals which were in poor condition. Horrible job that will test your patience. Slight improvement in performance.
Secondly, checked gas jet for dirt/obstruction, all good there. Checked gas solenoid valve and found looseness in adjustment/turn-off valve.
The solenoid would loosen after operation and travel and resulted in closing off much of the gas flow.
Replaced the whole inflow component which includes the solenoid. Much improvement to gas flow, burn capacity and strong flame with yellow tips. Main problem was here.
Thirdly, after all returned to normal operation, I followed advice to disconnect Temp Sensor from fins and place sensor in other part of fridge, within reach.
The sensor now rests below the light, away from the fins, and all my cooling problems disappeared. Never operated so well in the past.
Fourthly, I checked the gas regulator. Was advised to run gas stove top burners and check for any yellow tip flames. Yep, had yellow tips.
So, adjusted the regulator screw slowly until perfect blue flames only.
Also:
I run three 120mm computer fans to exhaust hot air at back of fridge. They are located in top external fridge vent.
The fans are connected to a programmable on/off temp sensor. On at 55C and off at 50C. Runs like a Swiss clock on gas.
FYI, I have a dual wireless temp sensor for Fridge/Freezer to monitor temp variations according to ambient external temps and I can then adjust the pre-set temp control of the fridge accordingly.
All the replacement parts, sensors and fans I purchased from Ebay from Aussie sellers.