Not sure if I am in the correct department for this.?
I have a Jayco Freedom 2002 Pop Top that has developed a leak in the roof at the very back.
I have located the leak, after removing the Ceiling Panel, and it is a rusted screw that appears to be under the J Mould (I think that's what its called) on the roof.
Unfortunately, the timber has rotted away and will need replacing.
Wondering if anyone out there has been through this repair and might be able to provide some assistance with advice.
Is it the pop-top section, or the rear panel of the "House"?
Curl said
04:18 PM Apr 7, 2023
Hello.
It's the Pop Top section of roof, at the very back. I'm mainly concerned in how I can remove and replace the rotten timber without having to go to the extreme of removing the entire roof.
It would be prudent to remove roof - patching rarely works - much of the other timber in roof is probably affected.
If I were doing it I would remove roof innards - remake a pop-top frame on the bench/floor leaving old one on until ready to fit fibre glass to new one.
Ensure you repair hole/s in roof shell with resin and glass fibre mat - not silicon.
Easy job for handyman or boat builder.
Gundog said
04:52 PM Apr 7, 2023
Removing the roof would allow you to replace all the boards, and them glue foilboard insulation in place before fitting ceiling panels.
I used these to replace the insulation and ceiling panels after repairing a couple of leaks in my caravan.
Another viewpoint ( Not as strong as the above suggestions, but a lot less effort)
I would clean up the rust, rust convert, paint.
Hopefully you can remove the interior roof panel side to side so you can see the full length of decayed timber beam
Make up a beam of similar size/length, screw in Gal angle brackets at each end of the new beam so that the other side of the angle bracket can be screwed to the side beams of the pop-top.
Remove 25mm of old silicon in the middle of the roof where the new beam will fit
A 2 person job. T-Rex ( see below or similar) the new beam onto the old (dry) beam and the top of the new beam to the roof
Screw the angle bracket at the ends of the new beam to the side beams of the pop-top.
Prop up the new bean until the T-Rex dries
On the Roof use the Rubber product below or similar with Tape wider than the J mould to more than cover the J mould plus at least 25mm.
I suggest overpainting the Black Waterproof covering with 2 coats of suitable white paint.
-- Edited by PeterInSa on Friday 7th of April 2023 05:06:49 PM
Curl said
08:56 AM Apr 8, 2023
Thanks to all. I'm wondering how I can access the Timber across the back that is damaged so I can remove and replace it. There is, what appears to be a cover strip on the outside under the roof with screws in it. Would that be the way to access it?
The pictured view shows the external frame that compresses the bellows section of the pop-top, to the roof acting as a clamp.
Bellows will need to be unfastened - remove the moulding, usually bonded with a silicon sealant ie not only clamped and held in place with screws (they hold it together whilst sealant cures).
A sharp scraper about 40mm wide is best for this job. Work parallel to bellows to avoid slitting the bellows.
Bicyclecamper said
11:23 AM Apr 8, 2023
I would get it professionally done. between 5 -7000$, I know it is alot, but you are going to have a lot more trouble if you do it yourself.
PeterInSa said
01:33 PM Apr 8, 2023
I looked into replacing the Fabric on our poptop ( years ago since sold), its was only screwed in no silicon.
Remove the screwed covers back and sides.
Remove the paneling adjacent to the screwed covers on the back and sides to expose the back timber that most likely goes from one side of the van to the other.
Re getting a professional to do the job, is the van worth the additional expense. To me its a DIY.
Curl said
02:02 PM Apr 8, 2023
Can you point out what the Bellows are in your description please?
Sorry......just a little confused and want to make sure that I do it right.
Possum3 said
02:11 PM Apr 8, 2023
Bellows are the flexible fabric (white PVC) usually with zippered windows that concertina's when raising or lowering roof from "House".
Curl said
02:28 PM Apr 8, 2023
Gotcha.
Thanks all.
Will get back to it in the coming days.
Warren-Pat_01 said
12:24 PM Apr 9, 2023
Thankfully I discovered & sealed mine well before it got to this stage.
Best of luck, Curl.
Curl said
03:23 PM Apr 9, 2023
Yes.....unfortunately i purchased the Van on the understanding there were no leaks, and there was nothing obvious at the time.
Looking at the damaged timber however, its been leaking for some time before i purchased.
If that Timber piece across the back is not load bearing, i might be able to chisel it out without having to disturb the section that holds it in on the outside. Because its not giving way at all, even with all the screws removed.
Going to see if i can get some advice from the manufacturer as well.
Hello All.
Not sure if I am in the correct department for this.?
I have a Jayco Freedom 2002 Pop Top that has developed a leak in the roof at the very back.
I have located the leak, after removing the Ceiling Panel, and it is a rusted screw that appears to be under the J Mould (I think that's what its called) on the roof.
Unfortunately, the timber has rotted away and will need replacing.
Wondering if anyone out there has been through this repair and might be able to provide some assistance with advice.
Thanks.
It's the Pop Top section of roof, at the very back.
I'm mainly concerned in how I can remove and replace the rotten timber without having to go to the extreme of removing the entire roof.
If I were doing it I would remove roof innards - remake a pop-top frame on the bench/floor leaving old one on until ready to fit fibre glass to new one.
Ensure you repair hole/s in roof shell with resin and glass fibre mat - not silicon.
Easy job for handyman or boat builder.
Removing the roof would allow you to replace all the boards, and them glue foilboard insulation in place before fitting ceiling panels.
I used these to replace the insulation and ceiling panels after repairing a couple of leaks in my caravan.
Foilboard insulation
https://www.bunnings.com.au/foilboard-10mm-x-2400mm-x-1200mm-standard-10-insulation_p0125954
3mm MDF panal
https://www.bunnings.com.au/2400mm-x-1200mm-x-3mm-melamine-mdf-drift-wood_p0093006
Another viewpoint ( Not as strong as the above suggestions, but a lot less effort)
I would clean up the rust, rust convert, paint.
Hopefully you can remove the interior roof panel side to side so you can see the full length of decayed timber beam
Make up a beam of similar size/length, screw in Gal angle brackets at each end of the new beam so that the other side of the angle bracket can be screwed to the side beams of the pop-top.
Remove 25mm of old silicon in the middle of the roof where the new beam will fit
A 2 person job. T-Rex ( see below or similar) the new beam onto the old (dry) beam and the top of the new beam to the roof
Screw the angle bracket at the ends of the new beam to the side beams of the pop-top.
Prop up the new bean until the T-Rex dries
On the Roof use the Rubber product below or similar with Tape wider than the J mould to more than cover the J mould plus at least 25mm.
I suggest overpainting the Black Waterproof covering with 2 coats of suitable white paint.
www.bunnings.com.au/gripset-betta-1l-waterproofing-membrane-bitumen-rubber_p0960165
www.thefastenerfactory.com.au/t-rex-black-sealant-and-adhesive-310ml
-- Edited by PeterInSa on Friday 7th of April 2023 05:06:49 PM
I'm wondering how I can access the Timber across the back that is damaged so I can remove and replace it.
There is, what appears to be a cover strip on the outside under the roof with screws in it.
Would that be the way to access it?
The pictured view shows the external frame that compresses the bellows section of the pop-top, to the roof acting as a clamp.
Bellows will need to be unfastened - remove the moulding, usually bonded with a silicon sealant ie not only clamped and held in place with screws (they hold it together whilst sealant cures).
A sharp scraper about 40mm wide is best for this job. Work parallel to bellows to avoid slitting the bellows.
Remove the screwed covers back and sides.
Remove the paneling adjacent to the screwed covers on the back and sides to expose the back timber that most likely goes from one side of the van to the other.
Re getting a professional to do the job, is the van worth the additional expense. To me its a DIY.
Can you point out what the Bellows are in your description please?
Sorry......just a little confused and want to make sure that I do it right.
Thanks all.
Will get back to it in the coming days.
Best of luck, Curl.
Looking at the damaged timber however, its been leaking for some time before i purchased.
If that Timber piece across the back is not load bearing, i might be able to chisel it out without having to disturb the section that holds it in on the outside. Because its not giving way at all, even with all the screws removed.
Going to see if i can get some advice from the manufacturer as well.
PM sent