Hi all, can someone tell me if the readout on a basic regulator is reading volts from the panel or the battery. I am getting a 16volt reading which is too much if it is the battery.
I am using a house 190 W panel that produces 40v or 4.5 amps into a 100 w AGM battery.
dorian said
03:41 AM Jun 21, 2022
Measure the voltage at the battery terminals.
rgren2 said
05:43 AM Jun 21, 2022
Dolly wrote:
Hi all, can someone tell me if the readout on a basic regulator is reading volts from the panel or the battery. I am getting a 16volt reading which is too much if it is the battery. I am using a house 190 W panel that produces 40v or 4.5 amps into a 100 w AGM battery.
There are some pretty dodgy regulators out there.
Whenarewethere said
06:37 AM Jun 21, 2022
As noted by others. There are a lot of dodgy controllers out there. Use your multimeter to measure the voltage at the battery terminals.
A lot of cheap MPPT controllers are fake & they simply will not work with a 40v panel. Best to do it right once only. I am using a Victron MPPT 100/20 Bluetooth which shows panel watts, voltage input & output, amps input & output.
I have measured everything to confirm to make sure it is actually doing what it is saying.
Try to find a link to your regulator so we can assess what you are using.
If you have 40V panels, as I do, then you must use a MPPT regulator. As has been noted some (many?) of the cheaper MPPT regulator are either fake or perform so poorly as not to be worth buying.
TimTim said
08:41 AM Jun 21, 2022
Dolly wrote:
Hi all, can someone tell me if the readout on a basic regulator is reading volts from the panel or the battery. I am getting a 16volt reading which is too much if it is the battery. I am using a house 190 W panel that produces 40v or 4.5 amps into a 100 w AGM battery.
If you have a cheap regulator it tells you what the battery voltage is.
If you have connected the solar controller to the solar panels first and then to the battery more often than not you will get some strange readings. Disconnect, wait a minute or two and then reconnect to the battery first. You should then see the battery voltage and hopefully it wont be that high.
Some have said that they can be dodgy but out of two that I have I havent had any issues, but then again I only use them for testing these days. They must be at least 14 years old and I used them extensively for a while.
Yours may be similar to the one in the photo I posted or just a similar display but different body. That one has a 50V and 260W@12V limit
-- Edited by TimTim on Tuesday 21st of June 2022 08:55:51 AM
Thanks guys for the info. Much appreciated. I will trash the little blue thing and head to Jaycar for something that works.
Cheers
TimTim said
09:03 AM Jun 21, 2022
Ok the little blue thingy is similar to the one I posted. In my opinion Jaycars MPPT is way over the top in price. Their Powertech models apear to be rebranded EPEver models.
-- Edited by TimTim on Tuesday 21st of June 2022 09:09:19 AM
Bobdown said
09:31 AM Jun 21, 2022
Dolly wrote:
Hi all, can someone tell me if the readout on a basic regulator is reading volts from the panel or the battery. I am getting a 16volt reading which is too much if it is the battery. I am using a house 190 W panel that produces 40v or 4.5 amps into a 100 w AGM battery.
Hi Dolly, that 16v sounds like what the panel is producing, if you can scroll through the readings, one might tell you the battery level another might tell you what the load is being drawn out.
Mine is different, but you can go through all the readings with one downward button until you end up back on the home screen. !6v is too much for a battery like you say.
You might need to google the instructions.
Cheers Bob
Gundog said
10:02 AM Jun 21, 2022
The blue on shown is not a MPPT ita a PWM, which is ok for a 100ah Battery.
I run a 75w 12v panel through a 20 amp PWM solar controller to a 75ah battery, works perfectly for what I require.( I had previously have a 40amp MPPT controller 375 of panels to 2 100ah batteries removed the lot except for the 75w panel and dropped to the single battery, shaved off a lot of dead weight)
PeterInSa said
10:29 AM Jun 21, 2022
I use TT's little Blue Thingy with a 10watt 12v solar panel to trickle charge my boat battery works OK. I think you can get them in 10 amp 20 and 30 mine is a 10 amp.
boab said
11:05 AM Jun 21, 2022
you have to connect your controller to the battery before you put your solar panel to the sun if your controller is fixed on the back of the panel lay your panel down so the sun cant activate it until the controller has read what battery it is connected to
dogbox said
11:24 AM Jun 21, 2022
TimTim wrote:
Dolly wrote:
Hi all, can someone tell me if the readout on a basic regulator is reading volts from the panel or the battery. I am getting a 16volt reading which is too much if it is the battery. I am using a house 190 W panel that produces 40v or 4.5 amps into a 100 w AGM battery.
If you have a cheap regulator it tells you what the battery voltage is.
If you have connected the solar controller to the solar panels first and then to the battery more often than not you will get some strange readings. Disconnect, wait a minute or two and then reconnect to the battery first. You should then see the battery voltage and hopefully it wont be that high.
Some have said that they can be dodgy but out of two that I have I havent had any issues, but then again I only use them for testing these days. They must be at least 14 years old and I used them extensively for a while.
Yours may be similar to the one in the photo I posted or just a similar display but different body. That one has a 50V and 260W@12V limit
-- Edited by TimTim on Tuesday 21st of June 2022 08:55:51 AM
i have a portable solar panel that is connected to a mppt controller then to a Anderson plug that connects to battery are you saying that i should have an anderson plug before controller so i can isolate controller an connect battery to controller first then connect solar
Mike Harding said
11:31 AM Jun 21, 2022
dogbox wrote:
i have a portable solar panel that is connected to a mppt controller then to a Anderson plug that connects to battery are you saying that i should have an anderson plug before controller so i can isolate controller an connect battery to controller first then connect solar
Some controllers require that, others don't - experimenting or, better still, the owner's manual will tell you.
If in doubt always connect the battery first then, a minute or two later, the solar panel.
Dolly said
11:32 AM Jun 21, 2022
Well, I just put the meter on the battery and got
16 volts. So that tells me my little blue thingame is faulty. I also put the meter on the panel output and got 40v. Guess I need a MPPT asap.
Ill try somewhere cheaper than Jaycar.
Thanks again.
dorian said
11:35 AM Jun 21, 2022
Make sure the regulator isn't expecting to see a 24V battery.
Whenarewethere said
11:49 AM Jun 21, 2022
A non fake MPPT controller will adjust the voltage to charge at the right amount for the battery's state of charge. In doing so it will aim to output as many amps as possible. A fake MPPT will not work with a 40v panel, or in other words 2 panels in series for example.
If your battery voltage is down a bit the MPPT will output more amps. So don't under size as the controller simply stops putting out any more amps than its rating. If it's 15 amps that's it.
Also in very hot ambient temperatures it is better that the controller has a bit of headroom. High ambient temperatures is when everything is under stress & you do not want hiccups.
Whenarewethere said
01:44 PM Jun 21, 2022
Mike Harding wrote:
dogbox wrote:
i have a portable solar panel that is connected to a mppt controller then to a Anderson plug that connects to battery are you saying that i should have an anderson plug before controller so i can isolate controller an connect battery to controller first then connect solar
Some controllers require that, others don't - experimenting or, better still, the owner's manual will tell you.
If in doubt always connect the battery first then, a minute or two later, the solar panel.
In manual than came with each of my Victron controllers it is very clearly stated that:
First: connect the cables to the load, but ensure that all loads are switched off.
Second: connect the battery (this will allow the controller to recognise system voltage).
Third: connect the solar array.
TimTim said
02:09 PM Jun 21, 2022
dogbox wrote:
TimTim wrote:
Dolly wrote:
Hi all, can someone tell me if the readout on a basic regulator is reading volts from the panel or the battery. I am getting a 16volt reading which is too much if it is the battery. I am using a house 190 W panel that produces 40v or 4.5 amps into a 100 w AGM battery.
If you have a cheap regulator it tells you what the battery voltage is.
If you have connected the solar controller to the solar panels first and then to the battery more often than not you will get some strange readings. Disconnect, wait a minute or two and then reconnect to the battery first. You should then see the battery voltage and hopefully it wont be that high.
Some have said that they can be dodgy but out of two that I have I havent had any issues, but then again I only use them for testing these days. They must be at least 14 years old and I used them extensively for a while.
Yours may be similar to the one in the photo I posted or just a similar display but different body. That one has a 50V and 260W@12V limit
-- Edited by TimTim on Tuesday 21st of June 2022 08:55:51 AM
i have a portable solar panel that is connected to a mppt controller then to a Anderson plug that connects to battery are you saying that i should have an anderson plug before controller so i can isolate controller an connect battery to controller first then connect solar
Hi Dogbox,
Some controllers work ok when connected to the panels first on a 12v system but it appears that many dont. At one stage I had 6 different controllers and they all went haywire if I connected them to the solar panels first and then to the battery.
Yours may work ok but if you have problems then yes fit an Anderson plug so that you can disconnect the panels Or do as Boab said. Cover the panels and connect to the battery first.
I just did a test on the blue thingy one and nothing comes up on the display when connected to the panels first. Maybe the Chinese are improving the model .
-- Edited by TimTim on Tuesday 21st of June 2022 02:11:08 PM
-- Edited by TimTim on Tuesday 21st of June 2022 02:47:46 PM
-- Edited by TimTim on Tuesday 21st of June 2022 02:49:16 PM
TimTim said
02:27 PM Jun 21, 2022
Dolly wrote:
Well, I just put the meter on the battery and got 16 volts. So that tells me my little blue thingame is faulty. I also put the meter on the panel output and got 40v. Guess I need a MPPT asap. Ill try somewhere cheaper than Jaycar. Thanks again.
Hi Dolly,
The link I posted previously to EBay was for the EPEver brand which are good value.
sorry if i've cut into someones thread, but as my portable panel is a spare that i can use when parked in shade keeping it covered and hooking up to battery is no problem just wasn't aware it could have made any real difference thanks for the info, easy to fix
Whenarewethere said
02:33 PM Jun 21, 2022
TimTim wrote:
dogbox wrote:
TimTim wrote:
Dolly wrote:
Hi all, can someone tell me if the readout on a basic regulator is reading volts from the panel or the battery. I am getting a 16volt reading which is too much if it is the battery. I am using a house 190 W panel that produces 40v or 4.5 amps into a 100 w AGM battery.
If you have a cheap regulator it tells you what the battery voltage is.
If you have connected the solar controller to the solar panels first and then to the battery more often than not you will get some strange readings. Disconnect, wait a minute or two and then reconnect to the battery first. You should then see the battery voltage and hopefully it wont be that high.
Some have said that they can be dodgy but out of two that I have I havent had any issues, but then again I only use them for testing these days. They must be at least 14 years old and I used them extensively for a while.
Yours may be similar to the one in the photo I posted or just a similar display but different body. That one has a 50V and 260W@12V limit
-- Edited by TimTim on Tuesday 21st of June 2022 08:55:51 AM
i have a portable solar panel that is connected to a mppt controller then to a Anderson plug that connects to battery are you saying that i should have an anderson plug before controller so i can isolate controller an connect battery to controller first then connect solar
Hi Dogbox,
Some controllers work ok when connected to the panels first on a 12v system but it appears that many dont. At one stage I had 6 different controllers and they all went haywire if I connected them to the solar panels first and then to the battery.
Yours may work ok but if you have problems then yes fit an Anderson plug so that you can disconnect the panels Or do as Boab said. Cover the panels and connect to the battery first.
Since they are portable panels just face them down to the ground or place in a shadow untill you connect the battery. Simples!
oldbloke said
05:55 PM Jun 21, 2022
In my case, and far from expert here. You my not understand.
The voltage will go up if charge is going in, say from solar and sun comes out.
The voltage will go down if drawing power, say, you turn on the water pump.
To get a reliable guide as to batteries charge, wait till it's dark and don't draw any power for say, 10 minutes.
I might be corrected on above.
PeterInSa said
07:34 PM Jun 21, 2022
TT Re (I just did a test on the blue thingy one biggrin and nothing comes up on the display when connected to the panels first.
Have 2 x 60w panels each connected to a Blue thingo 24/7 with the battery lead and clamps on the Cruiser battery and Aux Battery if we are away from home for some time, otherwise clamps are clamped to a cardboard box. I know the correct connection procedure, but have never had a problem in just clamping onto the battery terminals. BUT I do a check to confirm they are working correctly.
BT50 Dave said
10:04 AM Jun 23, 2022
Hi,
Check out some of the gear from Renogy, I have just installed their monitors in the tug canopy, and the caravan, to monitor the lithium batteries, apart from a bit of mucking about with the terminal size, very easy to fit and a useful piece of kit that shows a lot of useful information, it also has programmable alarms to let you know when your battery gets to certain levels.
There are some pretty dodgy regulators out there.
As noted by others. There are a lot of dodgy controllers out there. Use your multimeter to measure the voltage at the battery terminals.
A lot of cheap MPPT controllers are fake & they simply will not work with a 40v panel. Best to do it right once only. I am using a Victron MPPT 100/20 Bluetooth which shows panel watts, voltage input & output, amps input & output.
I have measured everything to confirm to make sure it is actually doing what it is saying.
My setup:
https://thegreynomads.activeboard.com/t65231112/custom-6x20-watts-solar-setup-with-mppt/
Try to find a link to your regulator so we can assess what you are using.
If you have 40V panels, as I do, then you must use a MPPT regulator. As has been noted some (many?) of the cheaper MPPT regulator are either fake or perform so poorly as not to be worth buying.
If you have a cheap regulator it tells you what the battery voltage is.
If you have connected the solar controller to the solar panels first and then to the battery more often than not you will get some strange readings. Disconnect, wait a minute or two and then reconnect to the battery first. You should then see the battery voltage and hopefully it wont be that high.
Some have said that they can be dodgy but out of two that I have I havent had any issues, but then again I only use them for testing these days. They must be at least 14 years old and I used them extensively for a while.
Yours may be similar to the one in the photo I posted or just a similar display but different body. That one has a 50V and 260W@12V limit
-- Edited by TimTim on Tuesday 21st of June 2022 08:55:51 AM
Ok the little blue thingy is similar to the one I posted. In my opinion Jaycars MPPT is way over the top in price. Their Powertech models apear to be rebranded EPEver models.
https://www.jaycar.com.au/12v-24v-30a-mppt-solar-charge-controller-with-lcd-display-for-lead-acid-and-lithium-batteries/p/MP3768?pos=2&queryId=a89887f1e401bd2a00b3f1febc7a8760&sort=relevance
https://www.ebay.com.au/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2380057.m570.l1313&_nkw=epever+mppt+solar+charge+controller&_sacat=0
-- Edited by TimTim on Tuesday 21st of June 2022 09:09:19 AM
Hi Dolly, that 16v sounds like what the panel is producing, if you can scroll through the readings, one might tell you the battery level another might tell you what the load is being drawn out.
Mine is different, but you can go through all the readings with one downward button until you end up back on the home screen. !6v is too much for a battery like you say.
You might need to google the instructions.
Cheers Bob
The blue on shown is not a MPPT ita a PWM, which is ok for a 100ah Battery.
I run a 75w 12v panel through a 20 amp PWM solar controller to a 75ah battery, works perfectly for what I require.( I had previously have a 40amp MPPT controller 375 of panels to 2 100ah batteries removed the lot except for the 75w panel and dropped to the single battery, shaved off a lot of dead weight)
i have a portable solar panel that is connected to a mppt controller then to a Anderson plug that connects to battery are you saying that i should have an anderson plug before controller so i can isolate controller an connect battery to controller first then connect solar
Some controllers require that, others don't - experimenting or, better still, the owner's manual will tell you.
If in doubt always connect the battery first then, a minute or two later, the solar panel.
A non fake MPPT controller will adjust the voltage to charge at the right amount for the battery's state of charge. In doing so it will aim to output as many amps as possible. A fake MPPT will not work with a 40v panel, or in other words 2 panels in series for example.
If your battery voltage is down a bit the MPPT will output more amps. So don't under size as the controller simply stops putting out any more amps than its rating. If it's 15 amps that's it.
Also in very hot ambient temperatures it is better that the controller has a bit of headroom. High ambient temperatures is when everything is under stress & you do not want hiccups.
In manual than came with each of my Victron controllers it is very clearly stated that:
First: connect the cables to the load, but ensure that all loads are switched off.
Second: connect the battery (this will allow the controller to recognise system voltage).
Third: connect the solar array.
Hi Dogbox,
Some controllers work ok when connected to the panels first on a 12v system but it appears that many dont. At one stage I had 6 different controllers and they all went haywire if I connected them to the solar panels first and then to the battery.
Yours may work ok but if you have problems then yes fit an Anderson plug so that you can disconnect the panels Or do as Boab said. Cover the panels and connect to the battery first.
I just did a test on the blue thingy one
and nothing comes up on the display when connected to the panels first. Maybe the Chinese are improving the model 
.
-- Edited by TimTim on Tuesday 21st of June 2022 02:11:08 PM
-- Edited by TimTim on Tuesday 21st of June 2022 02:47:46 PM
-- Edited by TimTim on Tuesday 21st of June 2022 02:49:16 PM
Hi Dolly,
The link I posted previously to EBay was for the EPEver brand which are good value.
https://www.ebay.com.au/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2380057.m570.l1313&_nkw=epever+mppt+solar+charge+controller&_sacat=0
Tim
Since they are portable panels just face them down to the ground or place in a shadow untill you connect the battery. Simples!
The voltage will go up if charge is going in, say from solar and sun comes out.
The voltage will go down if drawing power, say, you turn on the water pump.
To get a reliable guide as to batteries charge, wait till it's dark and don't draw any power for say, 10 minutes.
I might be corrected on above.
Have 2 x 60w panels each connected to a Blue thingo 24/7 with the battery lead and clamps on the Cruiser battery and Aux Battery if we are away from home for some time, otherwise clamps are clamped to a cardboard box. I know the correct connection procedure, but have never had a problem in just clamping onto the battery terminals. BUT I do a check to confirm they are working correctly.
Hi,
Check out some of the gear from Renogy, I have just installed their monitors in the tug canopy, and the caravan, to monitor the lithium batteries, apart from a bit of mucking about with the terminal size, very easy to fit and a useful piece of kit that shows a lot of useful information, it also has programmable alarms to let you know when your battery gets to certain levels.
https://au.renogy.com/products/iot-monitoring/
Safe Travels
Dave