looking for a fridge freezer to go go into the back of our Isuzu MUX
the back cigarette plug states 120 watts i take it that is max load , so what size of unit can i run
looking for a 240 volt come 12 volt unit
and what make
Mike Harding said
12:27 PM Apr 28, 2022
I believe most (all?) compressor units below about 80L consume around 4 to 5A with 30L-ish ones consuming less.
I have a dual zone 80L and that's a pretty big fridge, a two man lift when it's full and not light when it's empty. I suggest not going above 60 to 80L unless you have a specific purpose.
Whenarewethere said
12:38 PM Apr 28, 2022
Download the manuals of the fridges you are interested in. They have the amps & wattage on the specification page.
My fridge says 6.5amps but typically up to 4.0amps when the compressor is running. I have reduced this a touch with a more efficient fan.
PeterD said
01:09 PM Apr 28, 2022
Cowboy7307 wrote:
the back cigarette plug states 120 watts i take it that is max load , so what size of unit can i run
looking for a 240 volt come 12 volt unit
120 W at 12 V equals a current draw of 10 A. Select a unit that has a constant current draw of 10 A.
For the best reliability, you are better off scrapping the cigarette lighter system and use a more reliable plug/socket set like the Merit connectors. If you get something like a Waeco fridge, their cigarette lighter plug has an orange sleeve that you can remove to convert the plug to a Merit plug. If you wire a merit socket directly back to the battery you can use a cable that is much heavier than the lightweight stuff provided by motor vehicle manufacturers. This will suffer a lesser voltage drop to your fridge and you will get begtter operation all round.
Whenarewethere said
02:57 PM Apr 28, 2022
As said, don't use the standard 12v socket. Apart from the plug working their way out. The back of the socket connector for the spade connectors is thin & has poor electrical contact.
I replaced it with an Anderson plug which fitting in the existing hole & put another Anderson plug on the fridge with a 7amp panel circuit breaker from Jaycar.
I bought one of these a few months back to replace the Waeco that I had for about 15 years.
It has been excellent in 38C heat with the inside fridge temperature not varying at all. It is not too heavy but it either has to used as a fridge or a freezer. I cant recall the price I paid for it and I wont have access to the receipt until Saturday but Im positive it wasnt the price now shown. With BCF I always look at things I want and wait until they have their sales which are fairly regular as there are considerable savings to be had.
looking for a fridge freezer to go go into the back of our Isuzu MUX
the back cigarette plug states 120 watts i take it that is max load , so what size of unit can i run
looking for a 240 volt come 12 volt unit
and what make
I believe most (all?) compressor units below about 80L consume around 4 to 5A with 30L-ish ones consuming less.
I have a dual zone 80L and that's a pretty big fridge, a two man lift when it's full and not light when it's empty. I suggest not going above 60 to 80L unless you have a specific purpose.
Download the manuals of the fridges you are interested in. They have the amps & wattage on the specification page.
My fridge says 6.5amps but typically up to 4.0amps when the compressor is running. I have reduced this a touch with a more efficient fan.
120 W at 12 V equals a current draw of 10 A. Select a unit that has a constant current draw of 10 A.
For the best reliability, you are better off scrapping the cigarette lighter system and use a more reliable plug/socket set like the Merit connectors. If you get something like a Waeco fridge, their cigarette lighter plug has an orange sleeve that you can remove to convert the plug to a Merit plug. If you wire a merit socket directly back to the battery you can use a cable that is much heavier than the lightweight stuff provided by motor vehicle manufacturers. This will suffer a lesser voltage drop to your fridge and you will get begtter operation all round.
As said, don't use the standard 12v socket. Apart from the plug working their way out. The back of the socket connector for the spade connectors is thin & has poor electrical contact.
I replaced it with an Anderson plug which fitting in the existing hole & put another Anderson plug on the fridge with a 7amp panel circuit breaker from Jaycar.
I bought one of these a few months back to replace the Waeco that I had for about 15 years.
It has been excellent in 38C heat with the inside fridge temperature not varying at all. It is not too heavy but it either has to used as a fridge or a freezer. I cant recall the price I paid for it and I wont have access to the receipt until Saturday but Im positive it wasnt the price now shown. With BCF I always look at things I want and wait until they have their sales which are fairly regular as there are considerable savings to be had.
https://www.bcf.com.au/p/dometic-cff45-fridge-freezer-and-cover-pack/602254.html#q=Domestic%2Bfridge&lang=en_AU&start=4
My advice is to go in and take a look at the size you want and try lifting them too.
Two years now and going well. 5 amp if I recall correctly.
Almost as versatile as my 3 way in the van. I just wish I could run it on gas when the sun isn't shining and the mighty Triton is parked up.
;) cheers.
I have got my fridge down to 15AH (9.5 in winter) over 24 hours, mostly due to adding extra insulation. Very basic modification.
If you can't run one of these fridges in inclement you really need to ask yourself what second seventh rate system you are running.
Bending over will not solve gas issues. Thawing one's last remnants of grey matter will solve freezer issues in the tropics.
Evacool, Trailblazer are both Aussie made. The latter is a bit heavier.
1 ) will it flatten the start battery
2) will the fridge switch off and spoil any food in fridge
i have just put a fridge in the back of my canopy but i installed a dedicated battery to keep it running