How the power system when you have electricity, gas and battery.
Katerina said
11:52 AM Apr 10, 2022
I am new to the game and have a Avida Busselton Motorhome and so far I have been using only electricity, but would like to know how the system works when I will be free camping. I do have solar. Thanks in anticipation.
Dick0 said
01:28 PM Apr 10, 2022
Katerina wrote:
I am new to the game and have a Avida Busselton Motorhome and so far I have been using only electricity, but would like to know how the system works when I will be free camping. I do have solar. Thanks in anticipation.
Welcome Katerina,
When those that want to assist you know... the capacity (watts) of the solar panel(s), the type of solar controller (mppt/pwm etc.) and capacity (AH) of battery(s) and what appliances you intend to run from the battery(s) then you will hopefully receive informative advice.
Let us know and you will get good advice here.
Safe travels.
Bobdown said
02:01 PM Apr 10, 2022
Katerina wrote:
I am new to the game and have a Avida Busselton Motorhome and so far I have been using only electricity, but would like to know how the system works when I will be free camping. I do have solar. Thanks in anticipation.
Do you have 'house' batteries in the motorhome? These batteries are charged by the sun and then used to power all the 12v appliances in the motorhome, such as water pump, fridge, HWS, TV/radio and lights etc.
How long it lasts free camping depends on what capacity you have, battery size, solar size and water tank size, also gas bottles can feed the stove top/oven, HWS and 3 way fridges.
As Dicko says, you really need to know all the details of your System as there are so many variables.
Cheers Bob
Bill B said
05:01 PM Apr 10, 2022
Did you ask the seller when you bought it ?
Whenarewethere said
05:40 PM Apr 10, 2022
We need to know what you have. The solar panel labels are on the back, possibly near impossible to read. One can get creative with a mirror unless the gap is too small.
Failing that measure length & width, & the number of panels. Don't fall off ladder. Then we can give you a rough guess as to their wattage.
The battery/s there will be a sticker on the sides. Again failing that, measure width, length & height being very careful not to touch electrical contacts if using a metal ruler or tape.
Photograph of equipment & photograph of sticker if accessible. 240 volt equipment be very careful, best that the van is not plugged in untill you are familiar with the layout, especially if there is another 240 volt outlet in the van.
What is the equipment are you using. Fridge, its capacity (litres) or measure its size & a photo. Computer, TV, phone, kettle wattage, induction cooker, air conditioning etc.
Once we know all these things then we can give you an idea of what you can run off-grid.
Dick0 said
07:42 PM Apr 10, 2022
Katerina wrote:
I am new to the game and have a Avida Busselton Motorhome and so far I have been using only electricity, but would like to know how the system works when I will be free camping. I do have solar. Thanks in anticipation.
Nice looking Motorhome Katerina.
Had a look on the Avida site but they do not provide specifications regarding the optional solar system available.
However, they state that a 100AH battery is standard to the motorhome (type of battery not stated).
Jaahn said
07:32 AM Apr 11, 2022
Dick0 wrote:
Katerina wrote:
I am new to the game and have a Avida Busselton Motorhome and so far I have been using only electricity, but would like to know how the system works when I will be free camping. I do have solar. Thanks in anticipation.
Nice looking Motorhome Katerina.
Had a look on the Avida site but they do not provide specifications regarding the optional solar system available.
However, they state that a 100AH battery is standard to the motorhome (type of battery not stated).
Hi Katerina
Welcome ! Others have said they need more information about your equipment to give good answers. But I will give some general answers.
If you want to free camp then you will usually need to have more battery capacity, more solar on the roof, and a connection to use the motor alternator for extra charging. Gas for cooking is good, heating the van might be a consideration too. So you should consider these things and how much power and gas you might need. Water tank capacity also!
The type of fridge is important, as if it uses gas you can run it off that, but if electric then it will need electricity off the battery. It will then be one of your big users of power. Generally you might need to charge phones and computers and things so you need 12V chargers for them or a small 12v-240V AC sine wave inverter to use your standard chargers. Note that bigger power 240VAC household appliances cannot be used with a small battery system for longer than several minutes.
That is a general look at it but ask more questions and read the threads here about what others have discussed.
Jaahn
Katerina said
08:10 AM Apr 11, 2022
the motorhome was New December 2021 when I bought it. I will have to find out more about the actual systems as I have very little information on them. I will get back to you all in the next few days. Thank you everyone
Kebbin said
10:32 AM Apr 11, 2022
I feel you need help more from someone who can explain the systems better than someone on a forum. There is a man at Arana Hills in Brisbane who would talk you thru your current system and suggest additions or better ideas for your purpose. Give him a ring and ask, I assure you that he is reputable with the knowledge you want.
Phone Peter at Better Value for more infomation on 0422405013
Whenarewethere said
10:55 AM Apr 11, 2022
Agree, maybe someone local can go through your setup with you. It will make things a lot clearer. Sketch up a wiring diagram. More so when things go wrong. Murphy's Law! Then you will be in a far better position having an understanding of your setup, even if you still get someone to do repairs.
It's not difficult in the long run, but it can be a bit daunting at first. Takes a bit of time to get one's head around these things if you have never done it before.
Aus-Kiwi said
06:53 PM Apr 11, 2022
Take pics of battery/S , regular, solar panels . I suspect you have minimum requirement? Probably better off near doubling what you have ? Solar and battery!! Then a good charge lead to car battery or dc to dC charger ? You wont have issues if you have too much !! But obviously will go flat if not em enough !! Plus I find you need about half battery storage as reserve !!
bruceg said
01:50 PM Apr 13, 2022
Katerina,
To help others to help you please copy this post to notepad (or similar), delete out what doesn't apply, change the values to match, add whatever else gives us a better picture of what is on your RV, then copy into a new reply on this forum.
(Note, most RV builders don't bother labelling or documenting the systems they install, this is a good time to do this yourself; include all locations so that persons unfamiliar with your RV can find (and hopefully fix) everything in an emergency).
Mains Power Runs/Conduit - 100mm below windows, branches vertical to outlets, switches - do NOT drill or screw within 100mm of these positions
Generator - 2200W (2.2kW) peak, 1800W (1.8kW) continuous. If a generator is permanently wired in, is there a proper Changeover/Isolator Switch ? Where ?
Solar Panels - Permanent 2 x 170W '12V', Isolating Switches on roof, adjacent to panels. Portable 1 x 85W, plugs into socket at rear bumper.
As they get cheaper, Direct Methanol Fuel Cells are becomming a real alternative to generators and solar cells.
Direct Current (DC) Voltage - 12V most often, but larger RVs may be 24V, electric vehicles could be 48V or up to 300V.
Mains to DC charger 30A ]
Solar charger 500W, dual inlets ] -> 2 x 120Ah 'House' Batteries -> 1000W DC-to-Mains Inverter under microwave
DC-to-DC charger 20A (from vehicle or ext) ]
All these chargers usually have on board fuses, document the sizes and how to access/change them
Does your RV have remote monitoring for these chargers ? Where ? What are 'normal' readings ?
DC 'House' Fuse Panel [ 24 fuses, 10 x 10A, 6 x 15A, 8 unused ] Where ? Is it labelled ?
Gas Bottles - 2 x 9kg in dedicated locker, plumber to -> Changeover Valve -> Regulator, 1 x 2kg spare, not connected, clamped in locker
Diesel Tank - 1 x 10L in dedicated locker, plumber to -> Filter -> Pump -> Heater
[Group 2 - Water]
External 2 stage water filter [Filter #1 64 x 254mm (2.5" x 10") Cellulose, Filter #2 64 x 254mm Carbon]. Can this be connected ahead of the inlets to the tanks and the Town water inlet ?
'Town' water Inlet - hose 'click' fitting -> Pressure Limiter/Non Return Valve -> joins distribution pipes Before/After DC Pressure Pump
Potable Water Tanks - 1 x 20L on rear bumper, 2 x 90L fixed (with drain and isolating valves), fill ports at rear bumper -> Tank Screen -> DC Pressure Pump (under fridge with switch above sink) -> Pressure Limiter/Non Return Valve, often omitted as the pump is (wrongly) assumed to be one-way.
Drinking Water Filter - 1 x 254mm disposable cartridge below sink, Aqua Blue H2O brand
Flick Mixers - does every one of these have its own non return valve on the cold water inlet to prevent hot and cold water mixing when the lever is Off, but set to mix. (Particularly the often forgotten outside shower)
Toilet Flush Water Tank - built-in to toilet bowl surround cabinet, 22L
Grey Water Tank - 1 x 80L -> Grey Water Outlet, 40mm diameter, under shower
Black Water Tank - 20L Wheeled Cassette, under toilet cabinet
[Group 3 - Appliances]
Stove - Mains or Gas or Diesel or combination ? Includes Grill or Oven ?
Refrigerator - 1 x 185L, Compressor or Absorption ? Mains or DC or Gas or Diesel or a combination ? Automatic/Universal Energy Source ?
Freezer - built-in to fridge or separate ? 1 x 50L, Compressor or Absorption ? Mains or DC or Gas or All 3 ? Automatic/Universal Energy Source ?
Water Heater - 1 x 22L, Instantaneous or Storage ? Mains or Gas or Both ? Isolating Switch on Heater or above sink or Both ?
If storage type; is the thermostat the currently mandated minimum of 60°C or the obsolete 55°C ?
Aside from the kitchen sink are all other hot water outlets limited to 50°C max by a correctly set Tempering Valve ? Where is the valve ?
If you have children under 18 consider setting the Tempering valve to 43.5°C as required for child care centres, schools, etc.
Infotainment - TV/Radio Antenna, Satellite Dish thru-wall connectors, TV Amplifier/Distributor, Satellite Multiswitch (distributor), Reverse channels for remote controls ?
Mains or DC or Both ?
[Group 4 - Environmental]
Permanent Ventilation - LPG through bottom of door, cooking heat through over-stove extractor, Fridge heat via lower and upper external vents ? Pressure Balance mini wall vents in all sleeping zones ?
Air Conditioning - Brand ? Model ? Capacity ? Controls location ?
Alarms - Smoke, Carbon Monoxide, LPGWhat is their expected battery life ? When are the next changes ?
This list is deliberately kept to just the current RV 'essentials' and 'must haves'. Feel free to add any other devices such as wifi boosters or hot spots, charge stations, etc.
bye.
Are We Lost said
02:35 PM Apr 13, 2022
I think Aus-Kiwi's approach of posting photos has more chance of being meaningful. Many of those questions are unrelated to the information being sought, and probably some require technical understanding that those unfamiliar with the systems would not have.
Whenarewethere said
03:11 PM Apr 13, 2022
You have gas, so you can cook & the fridge is probably gas as well, but this would need clarification.
You have enough solar & batteries for all the small things.
If using the microwave, try to use it when you have sun on the solar panels. So while the inverter is using a lot of amps to power the microwave, you will also have amps charging. A smaller load which is always good for the batteries.
To run the air conditioning you will need to use the generator, if it is large enough.
Hot water as you said it is 22L, it is a tank. So only turn it on when you plan to have a shower, then turn it off. It is probably gas but this need clarification.
The DC-DC charger will charge up while driving. If desperate you can run the engine, but not good in the long run.
Photos of fridge, air conditioning, hot water tank etc would help.
But it is a good start with the information so far. Just doing this you will get your head around things a lot quicker.
I am new to the game and have a Avida Busselton Motorhome and so far I have been using only electricity, but would like to know how the system works when I will be free camping. I do have solar. Thanks in anticipation.
Welcome Katerina,
When those that want to assist you know... the capacity (watts) of the solar panel(s), the type of solar controller (mppt/pwm etc.) and capacity (AH) of battery(s) and what appliances you intend to run from the battery(s) then you will hopefully receive informative advice.
Let us know and you will get good advice here.
Safe travels.
Do you have 'house' batteries in the motorhome? These batteries are charged by the sun and then used to power all the 12v appliances in the motorhome, such as water pump, fridge, HWS, TV/radio and lights etc.
How long it lasts free camping depends on what capacity you have, battery size, solar size and water tank size, also gas bottles can feed the stove top/oven, HWS and 3 way fridges.
As Dicko says, you really need to know all the details of your System as there are so many variables.
Cheers Bob
We need to know what you have. The solar panel labels are on the back, possibly near impossible to read. One can get creative with a mirror unless the gap is too small.
Failing that measure length & width, & the number of panels. Don't fall off ladder. Then we can give you a rough guess as to their wattage.
The battery/s there will be a sticker on the sides. Again failing that, measure width, length & height being very careful not to touch electrical contacts if using a metal ruler or tape.
Photograph of equipment & photograph of sticker if accessible. 240 volt equipment be very careful, best that the van is not plugged in untill you are familiar with the layout, especially if there is another 240 volt outlet in the van.
What is the equipment are you using. Fridge, its capacity (litres) or measure its size & a photo. Computer, TV, phone, kettle wattage, induction cooker, air conditioning etc.
Once we know all these things then we can give you an idea of what you can run off-grid.
Nice looking Motorhome Katerina.
Had a look on the Avida site but they do not provide specifications regarding the optional solar system available.
However, they state that a 100AH battery is standard to the motorhome (type of battery not stated).
Hi Katerina
Welcome ! Others have said they need more information about your equipment to give good answers. But I will give some general answers.
If you want to free camp then you will usually need to have more battery capacity, more solar on the roof, and a connection to use the motor alternator for extra charging. Gas for cooking is good, heating the van might be a consideration too. So you should consider these things and how much power and gas you might need. Water tank capacity also!
The type of fridge is important, as if it uses gas you can run it off that, but if electric then it will need electricity off the battery. It will then be one of your big users of power. Generally you might need to charge phones and computers and things so you need 12V chargers for them or a small 12v-240V AC sine wave inverter to use your standard chargers. Note that bigger power 240VAC household appliances cannot be used with a small battery system for longer than several minutes.
That is a general look at it but ask more questions and read the threads here about what others have discussed.
Jaahn
the motorhome was New December 2021 when I bought it. I will have to find out more about the actual systems as I have very little information on them. I will get back to you all in the next few days. Thank you everyone
Phone Peter at Better Value for more infomation on 0422405013
Agree, maybe someone local can go through your setup with you. It will make things a lot clearer. Sketch up a wiring diagram. More so when things go wrong. Murphy's Law! Then you will be in a far better position having an understanding of your setup, even if you still get someone to do repairs.
It's not difficult in the long run, but it can be a bit daunting at first. Takes a bit of time to get one's head around these things if you have never done it before.
Katerina,
To help others to help you please copy this post to notepad (or similar), delete out what doesn't apply, change the values to match, add whatever else gives us a better picture of what is on your RV, then copy into a new reply on this forum.
(Note, most RV builders don't bother labelling or documenting the systems they install, this is a good time to do this yourself; include all locations so that persons unfamiliar with your RV can find (and hopefully fix) everything in an emergency).
My RV contains -
[Group 1 - Energy]
External Mains Power Inlet (15A) -> Isolating Switch 40A -> [Safety Switch 16A (Air Conditioner) - Safety Switch 16A (Hot water) - Safety Switch 16A (Power) - Safety Switch 10A (Lighting)]
Mains Power Runs/Conduit - 100mm below windows, branches vertical to outlets, switches - do NOT drill or screw within 100mm of these positions
Generator - 2200W (2.2kW) peak, 1800W (1.8kW) continuous. If a generator is permanently wired in, is there a proper Changeover/Isolator Switch ? Where ?
Solar Panels - Permanent 2 x 170W '12V', Isolating Switches on roof, adjacent to panels. Portable 1 x 85W, plugs into socket at rear bumper.
As they get cheaper, Direct Methanol Fuel Cells are becomming a real alternative to generators and solar cells.
Direct Current (DC) Voltage - 12V most often, but larger RVs may be 24V, electric vehicles could be 48V or up to 300V.
Mains to DC charger 30A ]
Solar charger 500W, dual inlets ] -> 2 x 120Ah 'House' Batteries -> 1000W DC-to-Mains Inverter under microwave
DC-to-DC charger 20A (from vehicle or ext) ]
All these chargers usually have on board fuses, document the sizes and how to access/change them
Does your RV have remote monitoring for these chargers ? Where ? What are 'normal' readings ?
DC 'House' Fuse Panel [ 24 fuses, 10 x 10A, 6 x 15A, 8 unused ] Where ? Is it labelled ?
Gas Bottles - 2 x 9kg in dedicated locker, plumber to -> Changeover Valve -> Regulator, 1 x 2kg spare, not connected, clamped in locker
Diesel Tank - 1 x 10L in dedicated locker, plumber to -> Filter -> Pump -> Heater
[Group 2 - Water]
External 2 stage water filter [Filter #1 64 x 254mm (2.5" x 10") Cellulose, Filter #2 64 x 254mm Carbon]. Can this be connected ahead of the inlets to the tanks and the Town water inlet ?
'Town' water Inlet - hose 'click' fitting -> Pressure Limiter/Non Return Valve -> joins distribution pipes Before/After DC Pressure Pump
Potable Water Tanks - 1 x 20L on rear bumper, 2 x 90L fixed (with drain and isolating valves), fill ports at rear bumper -> Tank Screen -> DC Pressure Pump (under fridge with switch above sink) -> Pressure Limiter/Non Return Valve, often omitted as the pump is (wrongly) assumed to be one-way.
Drinking Water Filter - 1 x 254mm disposable cartridge below sink, Aqua Blue H2O brand
Flick Mixers - does every one of these have its own non return valve on the cold water inlet to prevent hot and cold water mixing when the lever is Off, but set to mix. (Particularly the often forgotten outside shower)
Toilet Flush Water Tank - built-in to toilet bowl surround cabinet, 22L
Grey Water Tank - 1 x 80L -> Grey Water Outlet, 40mm diameter, under shower
Black Water Tank - 20L Wheeled Cassette, under toilet cabinet
[Group 3 - Appliances]
Stove - Mains or Gas or Diesel or combination ? Includes Grill or Oven ?
Refrigerator - 1 x 185L, Compressor or Absorption ? Mains or DC or Gas or Diesel or a combination ? Automatic/Universal Energy Source ?
Freezer - built-in to fridge or separate ? 1 x 50L, Compressor or Absorption ? Mains or DC or Gas or All 3 ? Automatic/Universal Energy Source ?
Water Heater - 1 x 22L, Instantaneous or Storage ? Mains or Gas or Both ? Isolating Switch on Heater or above sink or Both ?
If storage type; is the thermostat the currently mandated minimum of 60°C or the obsolete 55°C ?
Aside from the kitchen sink are all other hot water outlets limited to 50°C max by a correctly set Tempering Valve ? Where is the valve ?
If you have children under 18 consider setting the Tempering valve to 43.5°C as required for child care centres, schools, etc.
[see https://www.phaa.net.au/documents/item/215#:~:text=Under%20the%20Australian%20Standard%20AS,the%20growth%20of%20Legionella%20bacteria]
Slide Outs - Mains or DC ? Manual crank handles ?
Lighting - Mains or DC ?
Infotainment - TV/Radio Antenna, Satellite Dish thru-wall connectors, TV Amplifier/Distributor, Satellite Multiswitch (distributor), Reverse channels for remote controls ?
Mains or DC or Both ?
[Group 4 - Environmental]
Permanent Ventilation - LPG through bottom of door, cooking heat through over-stove extractor, Fridge heat via lower and upper external vents ? Pressure Balance mini wall vents in all sleeping zones ?
Air Conditioning - Brand ? Model ? Capacity ? Controls location ?
Heater - Brand ? Model ? Fuel ? Capacity ? Controls location ?
Alarms - Smoke, Carbon Monoxide, LPG What is their expected battery life ? When are the next changes ?
This list is deliberately kept to just the current RV 'essentials' and 'must haves'. Feel free to add any other devices such as wifi boosters or hot spots, charge stations, etc.
bye.
You have gas, so you can cook & the fridge is probably gas as well, but this would need clarification.
You have enough solar & batteries for all the small things.
If using the microwave, try to use it when you have sun on the solar panels. So while the inverter is using a lot of amps to power the microwave, you will also have amps charging. A smaller load which is always good for the batteries.
To run the air conditioning you will need to use the generator, if it is large enough.
Hot water as you said it is 22L, it is a tank. So only turn it on when you plan to have a shower, then turn it off. It is probably gas but this need clarification.
The DC-DC charger will charge up while driving. If desperate you can run the engine, but not good in the long run.
Photos of fridge, air conditioning, hot water tank etc would help.
But it is a good start with the information so far. Just doing this you will get your head around things a lot quicker.