We are enjoying perfect weather at the moment at Malanda but are suffering one problem. Yes according to a number of replies on a similar question in 2016, we could add water to the tanks & use the pump to wash the dishes, etc but Mr Jayco gave us this u-beaut connector made of plastic complete with an 8mm rubber O-ring to make it easy to connect our blue hose to the c-park tap.
At Etty Bay, it was a competition as to which end blew off first (tap or van). Yes to the bird watchers in this forum, we did see the cassowaries (3) - the main reason for the visit.
So at Malanda, with new rubber O-rings & with minimal flow (yes the pressure will build up to whatever the mains pressure is these days) BUT is there a solution where the hose will hold on to the connections for 5-10 minutes? We do turn the mains tap off to reduce the possibility of a leak developing. Do I have to incorporate a pressure reducer in the hose?
Leshill said
11:55 PM Sep 17, 2019
A pressure reducing valve will fix the problem. I run my 3 setting valve on the lowest pressure setting .
It works well.
Hi Warren, I have found that those quick push on connectors are not all the same. Sometimes I have to change them to a different make to stop this problem. Also at the van end, the female fitting must be pushed on very firmly, as sometimes it appears to be on, but isn't.
Try buying a few different types of female couplers, not the cheapest, and try swapping them around until you find a pair that work, same goes for the tap adaptor.
travelyounger said
07:46 AM Sep 18, 2019
Try nylex or pope hose connectors from bunnings they are more expensive but much better also fit a pressure reducer to your inlet to help protect from an internal blowout in your water pipe connections cheers
Dougwe said
08:23 AM Sep 18, 2019
G'day Warren,
I changed all my fittings to 'Hoselink' and think they are the bees knees. Very happy indeedy.
Not cheap though but worth it IMO.
woolman said
08:55 AM Sep 18, 2019
Would totally agree with the HoseLink options. Have used for 14 years and not had a blow off.
The push on fittings all vary slightly and not reliably interchangeable. You can get brass push on connectors but they are more than the Hoselink joiners and still not as reliable.
Neil
Possum3 said
08:56 AM Sep 18, 2019
I changed all my snap on connectors to brass fittings, all the same brand from Bunnings - they only cost about $4.00 ea. Don't blow off with pressure.
Cupie said
03:21 PM Sep 18, 2019
Possum3 wrote:
I changed all my snap on connectors to brass fittings, all the same brand from Bunnings - they only cost about $4.00 ea. Don't blow off with pressure.
Bloody hell ... I recently replaced my hose & fittings. Got the hose at trade price from a CV parts place, considerably cheaper than Bunnings. BUT the brass snap on connectors were about $14 each. I cut the 20m hose into 3 pieces. So that's about $84 for the connectors .. plus the joiners. Just as well the hose & fittings last 20years .. at least the last one did.
BTW, I change the 'O' rings regularly & when I fit the snap-ons to the taps et al, I pull the outside cylinder back to minimise wear on the retaining fingers. They wear out causing the blow offs IMHO. (I was going to make a joke about Gentiles at this point but in the spirit of good decorum on the forum I decided not to ... LOL)
ps.
I was going to use the hose link product but they looked to be too large to fit into my carrying tubes under the van.
-- Edited by Cupie on Wednesday 18th of September 2019 03:24:27 PM
Baz421 said
08:09 PM Sep 18, 2019
Agree with those who say buy quality products. I also have a 90deg bend about 120mm from van connection so hose goes straight to ground,, hope this makes sense.
Aus-Kiwi said
09:42 PM Sep 18, 2019
Some of my original hoses have a stainless insert inside to prevent hose from shrinking .
Warren-Pat_01 said
10:45 PM Sep 18, 2019
Thanks chaps,
If there are any new chums out there, I would hope that they read posts like mine just to show why we all join in seeking answers & also providing them from experience.
I fitted a quality brass one on the tap here at Malanda (success so far, and also it doesn't need any Teflon tape) but the one feeding the van doesn't want to stay on. I'll look at the pressure reduction first providing I can fit one to the hose as that could reduce other dramas in the future & then go to the Hoselink fitting.
Les,
Could you let me know the details of your valve, please?
Warren read my post. I gave you hint for van end,,, takes weight OFF FITTING
Dougwe said
09:06 AM Sep 19, 2019
I have one of these 'Hoselink' swivel fittings fitted to the teepee. It swivels 180*. Similar to what Baz is talking about I think.
Warren-Pat_01 said
08:28 PM Sep 19, 2019
Oops sorry Baz, thanks Doug,
The Jayco inlet to the van goes in at an angle of about 60 degrees (not // to the ground) so I think reducing the pressure will be the best option. Another bend will push the hose back under the van.
This is a case of "improving" things as years go by or is it making things cheaper & nastier? The inlet on my 2005 Eagle was far better than this one!
It will just mean a bit of fiddling with fittings & pressure limiter on the van end of the hose (providing someone doesn't borrow the finished item).
Mamil said
09:05 PM Sep 19, 2019
As others have said, not all click-on hose connectors are made equal. Some of the cheaper ones only have two plastic 'prongs' in the female side to grip the male, whereas better ones have three. And even better still the brass ones have steel ball bearings in place of the plastic prongs. I'm sure this would make a difference to their ability to hold on under pressure and with sideways forces on the joint.
-- Edited by Mamil on Thursday 19th of September 2019 10:17:32 PM
Cupie said
11:30 PM Sep 19, 2019
Warren-Pat_01 wrote:
Oops sorry Baz, thanks Doug,
The Jayco inlet to the van goes in at an angle of about 60 degrees (not // to the ground) so I think reducing the pressure will be the best option. Another bend will push the hose back under the van.
This is a case of "improving" things as years go by or is it making things cheaper & nastier? The inlet on my 2005 Eagle was far better than this one!
It will just mean a bit of fiddling with fittings & pressure limiter on the van end of the hose (providing someone doesn't borrow the finished item).
When I had my first (12M Free) service done in Perth in 2000, the dealer changed my water inlet from the one inside the lockable flap to one directly under the van - pointing straight down. Claimed that he had encountered many of the standard ones under the flap breaking & flooding the inside of the van.
I have since fitted a ball **** to the inlet pipe because the 12v pump emptied my water tanks when I suspect an anti backflow valve failed.
Tones said
07:44 AM Sep 20, 2019
From my own personal experience, I suggest a 50PSI pressure reduction valve in the hose "before" the van fitting. CP's have a massive variation in water pressure over the course of a day, particularly at night after everyone has finished washing up and showering. Also good in places where someone has connected powerheads to fire hydrant feeder pipes as we experienced once in the Barossa Valley and where the brass "clip-on" end can become a deadly projectile when it flies off the side of the van.
I would never connect a water hose to the side of our van without the pressure reduction valve being present in the hose. For those who would respond by saying that most vans have a pressure reduction valve built into the plumbing, just think about the plumbing between that built-in valve and the point of connection on the side of the van. There is still scope for plumbing failure on a lot of vans in this part of the plumbing circuit.
Tones
Cupie said
08:01 AM Sep 20, 2019
Tones wrote:
From my own personal experience, I suggest a 50PSI pressure reduction valve in the hose "before" the van fitting. CP's have a massive variation in water pressure over the course of a day, particularly at night after everyone has finished washing up and showering. Also good in places where someone has connected powerheads to fire hydrant feeder pipes as we experienced once in the Barossa Valley and where the brass "clip-on" end can become a deadly projectile when it flies off the side of the van.
I would never connect a water hose to the side of our van without the pressure reduction valve being present in the hose. For those who would respond by saying that most vans have a pressure reduction valve built into the plumbing, just think about the plumbing between that built-in valve and the point of connection on the side of the van. There is still scope for plumbing failure on a lot of vans in this part of the plumbing circuit.
Tones
Good advice.
I must say that I once had a hose blow off at the tap fitting late one night.
Eventually the roaring of the water jet woke us up.
The water had blasted a massive hole in the ground & flooded a wide area. Certainly extreme pressure that could have done damage if it had happened inside the van at a point before my pressure reducing valve.
I think that I might just pick up a brass reducing fitting at Reece.
iana said
03:10 PM Sep 21, 2019
I have just connected up again, and tried out the fittings. I have found that using the Pope fittings, orange and grey, I have had no problems with hoses blowing off the Jayco manifold, provided you give the fitting a positive push on, then a tug back to make sure the fitting stays connected. I also tried a Nylex fitting which came off straight away.
If the connector in the van is worn or damaged, and it is a replaceable part, no matter what else you do, the fitting will continue to blow off.
Aus-Kiwi said
11:48 AM Sep 22, 2019
I fill my tank and use its own pump. A pressure regulator is a must . Some pressure can get up to 80psi . Nearly double what should be . Any leaks Ive had has been from
Hose under tension on fitting . I figure ? Its the O ring going hard and not sealing the same ? Routed new fixture with hose directly into fitting . Use heat gun to slightly bend hose permanently.
Leshill said
04:26 AM Sep 29, 2019
Hi Warren, The reducing valve I use is as follows.
G'day everyone,
We are enjoying perfect weather at the moment at Malanda but are suffering one problem. Yes according to a number of replies on a similar question in 2016, we could add water to the tanks & use the pump to wash the dishes, etc but Mr Jayco gave us this u-beaut connector made of plastic complete with an 8mm rubber O-ring to make it easy to connect our blue hose to the c-park tap.
At Etty Bay, it was a competition as to which end blew off first (tap or van). Yes to the bird watchers in this forum, we did see the cassowaries (3) - the main reason for the visit.
So at Malanda, with new rubber O-rings & with minimal flow (yes the pressure will build up to whatever the mains pressure is these days) BUT is there a solution where the hose will hold on to the connections for 5-10 minutes? We do turn the mains tap off to reduce the possibility of a leak developing. Do I have to incorporate a pressure reducer in the hose?
It works well.
best thing i ever did .
Try buying a few different types of female couplers, not the cheapest, and try swapping them around until you find a pair that work, same goes for the tap adaptor.
Try nylex or pope hose connectors from bunnings they are more expensive but much better also fit a pressure reducer to your inlet to help protect from an internal blowout in your water pipe connections cheers
I changed all my fittings to 'Hoselink' and think they are the bees knees. Very happy indeedy.
Not cheap though but worth it IMO.
Bloody hell ... I recently replaced my hose & fittings. Got the hose at trade price from a CV parts place, considerably cheaper than Bunnings. BUT the brass snap on connectors were about $14 each. I cut the 20m hose into 3 pieces. So that's about $84 for the connectors .. plus the joiners. Just as well the hose & fittings last 20years .. at least the last one did.
BTW, I change the 'O' rings regularly & when I fit the snap-ons to the taps et al, I pull the outside cylinder back to minimise wear on the retaining fingers. They wear out causing the blow offs IMHO. (I was going to make a joke about Gentiles at this point but in the spirit of good decorum on the forum I decided not to ... LOL)
ps.
I was going to use the hose link product but they looked to be too large to fit into my carrying tubes under the van.
-- Edited by Cupie on Wednesday 18th of September 2019 03:24:27 PM
Agree with those who say buy quality products. I also have a 90deg bend about 120mm from van connection so hose goes straight to ground,, hope this makes sense.
If there are any new chums out there, I would hope that they read posts like mine just to show why we all join in seeking answers & also providing them from experience.
I fitted a quality brass one on the tap here at Malanda (success so far, and also it doesn't need any Teflon tape) but the one feeding the van doesn't want to stay on. I'll look at the pressure reduction first providing I can fit one to the hose as that could reduce other dramas in the future & then go to the Hoselink fitting.
Les,
Could you let me know the details of your valve, please?
I've found one that seems ok - www.fruugoaustralia.com/adjustable-pressure-reducing-valve-12-34-bsp-female-dn15mm-reduction-to-14-bar/p-4566694-10429850%20-%20Remarketing%20Catch-all&utm_term=4574655567035245&utm_content=Visitors%207%20Days (what a mouthful) along with a Bar to Psi converter
I have one of these 'Hoselink' swivel fittings fitted to the teepee. It swivels 180*. Similar to what Baz is talking about I think.
The Jayco inlet to the van goes in at an angle of about 60 degrees (not // to the ground) so I think reducing the pressure will be the best option. Another bend will push the hose back under the van.
This is a case of "improving" things as years go by or is it making things cheaper & nastier? The inlet on my 2005 Eagle was far better than this one!
It will just mean a bit of fiddling with fittings & pressure limiter on the van end of the hose (providing someone doesn't borrow the finished item).
As others have said, not all click-on hose connectors are made equal. Some of the cheaper ones only have two plastic 'prongs' in the female side to grip the male, whereas better ones have three. And even better still the brass ones have steel ball bearings in place of the plastic prongs. I'm sure this would make a difference to their ability to hold on under pressure and with sideways forces on the joint.
-- Edited by Mamil on Thursday 19th of September 2019 10:17:32 PM
When I had my first (12M Free) service done in Perth in 2000, the dealer changed my water inlet from the one inside the lockable flap to one directly under the van - pointing straight down. Claimed that he had encountered many of the standard ones under the flap breaking & flooding the inside of the van.
I have since fitted a ball **** to the inlet pipe because the 12v pump emptied my water tanks when I suspect an anti backflow valve failed.
From my own personal experience, I suggest a 50PSI pressure reduction valve in the hose "before" the van fitting. CP's have a massive variation in water pressure over the course of a day, particularly at night after everyone has finished washing up and showering. Also good in places where someone has connected powerheads to fire hydrant feeder pipes as we experienced once in the Barossa Valley and where the brass "clip-on" end can become a deadly projectile when it flies off the side of the van.
I would never connect a water hose to the side of our van without the pressure reduction valve being present in the hose. For those who would respond by saying that most vans have a pressure reduction valve built into the plumbing, just think about the plumbing between that built-in valve and the point of connection on the side of the van. There is still scope for plumbing failure on a lot of vans in this part of the plumbing circuit.
Tones
Good advice.
I must say that I once had a hose blow off at the tap fitting late one night.
Eventually the roaring of the water jet woke us up.
The water had blasted a massive hole in the ground & flooded a wide area. Certainly extreme pressure that could have done damage if it had happened inside the van at a point before my pressure reducing valve.
I think that I might just pick up a brass reducing fitting at Reece.
If the connector in the van is worn or damaged, and it is a replaceable part, no matter what else you do, the fitting will continue to blow off.
Hose under tension on fitting . I figure ? Its the O ring going hard and not sealing the same ? Routed new fixture with hose directly into fitting . Use heat gun to slightly bend hose permanently.
Hi Warren, The reducing valve I use is as follows.
AVG (Australian valve group) Tri-set compression selectable liminting valve.
PLV15C 15mm (1/2") compression
1 valve with 3 settings 350 , 500, 600 kpa Allen key adjustable & suits uptown 1800kpa inlet pressure.
I use mine on the 350 kpa settings as my home mains pressure is about 1000 kpa.
Australian valve group pty ltd
Kewdale WA 6105
(08) 9353 2203
I hope this information is useful for you / and others as the valve works well for me.
Les