I needed 4 AWG cable to lower wire resistance over the distance required. 6 AWG wire was not large enough. Also didn't want to use a larger Anderson plug as that created a list of new problems.
So I expanded the lug:
I drilled a block of wood to the right depth to support the end of the lug & the bottom of the cup. With a bit of grease I first used a Dynabolt which was 6mm at the end & hammered that in. That worked really well & I could wiggle it back out. The next stage was more difficult as I couldn't wiggle the punches out.
Using progressively larger (old) drill bits, I filed a small taper on the back, only needs to be larger by the diameter of the previous size, so 0.2mm at most, & hammered in. It is better progressively work down the cup with larger sizes. Do not try to go all the way down with one size then all the way down with the next larger size as that is more difficult to get that punch (drill bit) out because you don't have wiggle room so to speak.
I did have to drill a hole in the piece of metal (make the hole a bit loose) to make a tee handle & put that over the drill bit & then drill bit backwards in a drill to clamp the drill bit, to be able pull the lug off the back end to the drill bit a few times.
Cleaned off the grease & the lugs looked in pretty good shape. Wouldn't want to do this all the time but for the odd 4AWG cable is wasn't too difficult & didn't have to buy any extra tools. Buy a Dynabolt (back end 6mm) if you don't have one, as it would be the worth getting for the first enlargement as the was easy.
it worked out well for you , are you crimping or soldering ( or both ) ?
Whenarewethere said
01:26 PM Jun 28, 2019
I have a swaging tool & can do up to 175 but I prefer to only solder. It is then neater & I can run the heatshrink over the entire cup so everything is sealed as much as possible.
Why would you bother to drill out the lug to accommodate larger cable when you could much more easily just trim off some of the cable dia to fit the lug.
There is no loss of current carrying capacity or increased voltage drop by trimming the cable to fit the lug.
The CSA at the lug is the same whether it comprises cable CSA or lug wall thickness.
Is there some other reason for choosing to reduce lug wall thickness ??
Ken
-- Edited by kgarnett on Tuesday 30th of July 2019 09:35:38 AM
Peter_n_Margaret said
10:36 AM Jul 30, 2019
kgarnett wrote:
Why would you bother to drill out the lug to accommodate larger cable when you could much more easily just trim off some of the cable dia to fit the lug.
There is no loss of current carrying capacity or increased voltage drop by trimming the cable to fit the lug.
The CSA at the lug is the same whether it comprises cable CSA or lug wall thickness.
Is there some other reason for choosing to reduce lug wall thickness ??
Ken
Yep.
And soldering is not a good practice because it hardens and stiffens the copper making it more likely to break in fatigue. Sure, it can be supported to some extent with shrink tube, but these fittings are designed to be crimped, not soldered.
And NEVER solder the end of a wire that is then held in a screw clamp because the solder is soft and will creep, the joint will come loose, resistance will increase and heat will be generated.
I needed 4 AWG cable to lower wire resistance over the distance required. 6 AWG wire was not large enough. Also didn't want to use a larger Anderson plug as that created a list of new problems.
So I expanded the lug:
I drilled a block of wood to the right depth to support the end of the lug & the bottom of the cup. With a bit of grease I first used a Dynabolt which was 6mm at the end & hammered that in. That worked really well & I could wiggle it back out. The next stage was more difficult as I couldn't wiggle the punches out.
Using progressively larger (old) drill bits, I filed a small taper on the back, only needs to be larger by the diameter of the previous size, so 0.2mm at most, & hammered in. It is better progressively work down the cup with larger sizes. Do not try to go all the way down with one size then all the way down with the next larger size as that is more difficult to get that punch (drill bit) out because you don't have wiggle room so to speak.
I did have to drill a hole in the piece of metal (make the hole a bit loose) to make a tee handle & put that over the drill bit & then drill bit backwards in a drill to clamp the drill bit, to be able pull the lug off the back end to the drill bit a few times.
Cleaned off the grease & the lugs looked in pretty good shape. Wouldn't want to do this all the time but for the odd 4AWG cable is wasn't too difficult & didn't have to buy any extra tools. Buy a Dynabolt (back end 6mm) if you don't have one, as it would be the worth getting for the first enlargement as the was easy.
I have a swaging tool & can do up to 175 but I prefer to only solder. It is then neater & I can run the heatshrink over the entire cup so everything is sealed as much as possible.
www.ebay.com.au/itm/GENUINE-Anderson-50A-SB50-Plugs-and-Contacts-4WD-Caravan-Trailer-Solar-50A-KIT2/322642927798
Why would you bother to drill out the lug to accommodate larger cable when you could much more easily just trim off some of the cable dia to fit the lug.
There is no loss of current carrying capacity or increased voltage drop by trimming the cable to fit the lug.
The CSA at the lug is the same whether it comprises cable CSA or lug wall thickness.
Is there some other reason for choosing to reduce lug wall thickness ??
Ken
-- Edited by kgarnett on Tuesday 30th of July 2019 09:35:38 AM
Yep.
And soldering is not a good practice because it hardens and stiffens the copper making it more likely to break in fatigue. Sure, it can be supported to some extent with shrink tube, but these fittings are designed to be crimped, not soldered.
And NEVER solder the end of a wire that is then held in a screw clamp because the solder is soft and will creep, the joint will come loose, resistance will increase and heat will be generated.
Cheers,
Peter