Anyone got a good idea on what they use to stop stone from flicking back and smashing the back window of my 200 LC, i looked at the rock tammer but at $500 i was wondering if there was anything else out there worth considering. Its not the money its getting the best thing.
Thanks in advise Regards Paul T
Peter_n_Margaret said
11:28 AM Mar 22, 2019
Cover the window with a sheet of Corflute (plastic cardboard) using suction caps or tape to hold it into place.
Cheers,
Peter
Possum3 said
11:40 AM Mar 22, 2019
Peter_n_Margaret wrote:
Cover the window with a sheet of Corflute (plastic cardboard) using suction caps or tape to hold it into place. Cheers, Peter
Stick with Velcro Patches/Dots - Good time to stock up on a few corflute panels if in NSW - that's what all the Election posters are. For the rest of the Country you will have to wait another couple of months for the Federal Election.
Possum3 said
11:44 AM Mar 22, 2019
Cut to size and shape of back windows, attach with Velcro (so they can be taken off when bob-tail and replaced when towing. Face white side out and they are good insulators - can also be used inside of windows for insulation or privacy.
denmonkey said
01:48 PM Mar 22, 2019
By the end of the weekend, I will have finsihed my DIY version. I made it a while ago but the rubber I used was too thin and it shredded itself under normal use. I picked up some new rubber just yesterday and will be swapping it in this weekend. Once I've got that done, I'll stick up the video showing how I did it. Really very simple though. a bar, u bolt, rubber and some screws. Done in under an hour
this ones not mine but you get the idea.
-- Edited by denmonkey on Friday 22nd of March 2019 01:48:50 PM
tommo said
02:02 PM Mar 22, 2019
THANKS EVERYONE
Yuglamron said
02:05 PM Mar 22, 2019
I bought two antispray Mudflaps from a truck accessories place Cut them basically in half and fixed them between two lengths of 20mm mild steel I had galvanised. Gave me four widths that were then mounted just behind the original mudflaps. Covered the whole width of the vehicle.
Does the job well and an added bonus cuts the spray as well. I think it cost me less than $100 in total excluding the stainless bolts I had on hand.
The Mudflaps are fairly easy to cut. Not Rubber anymore some sort of Plastic, A good Stanley Knife works well.
Possum3 said
02:30 PM Mar 22, 2019
Conveyor belt rubber is the best for durability - If you can get an offcut at a coal mine it's the bee's knees.
Peter_n_Margaret said
02:35 PM Mar 22, 2019
Full width flaps that come close to the ground are counter productive and should be banned in my view. The volume of stones and dirt that they shower over other road users is unbelievable, and I would expect that they add to fuel consumption too. I caught a pic of this one in Europe. It was a bitumen road. Imagine what happens on a gravel road.
If you want to see out the rear window. Get a piece of 2mm polycarbonate (NOT acrylic) from a small plastic suppler in an industrial area. If you score it a few times each side with a Stanley knife it will snap. Sand edges with Norton wet and dry paper with water & drop or detergent or soap to make the water wetter. (not the rubbish the big hardware store sells).
If drilling, take a slight edge of a drill bit to stop it biting into the plastic. Then use a Sutton Tools C101 deburring 90 degree counter sink to tidy up drilled holes.
Yuglamron said
03:23 PM Mar 22, 2019
That was precisely why I used anti spray mudflaps instead on conveyor belt rubber which some one else said is very durable. Never had any problems throwing stones and or gravel at other road users and if you get debris from the person in front on a dirt road You are too close behind anyway.
Mariner30 said
03:30 PM Mar 22, 2019
Mates father would use the conveyor belt method on new XB and HQ wagons towing trailers in the early 70's between Hay and Bourke,
Not a lot of traffic around at the time of day,
Re (mudflaps. Covered the whole width of the vehicle.)
Towing in hot weather with full width Flaps could cause the diff to overheat, limited air going past, suggest mud flaps position as per DM above.
Peter
Yuglamron said
04:48 PM Mar 22, 2019
My MAN has an Alison Auto gearbox and both it and the diff have a dash mounted temp gauge each. Aprox a sixty degree arc with a green range of about ten degrees then yellow for aprox thirty degrees before the red.
About Nov last year heading up the ranges from Brisbane to Toowoomba in 40+ degrees following an extremely slow B Double Both the gearbox and diff temps never made halfway up the green sector. Engine temp was OK but a lot higher than normal. I would say an overheating dif. is not a problem at all. By the time I reached the Turn Off Toowoomba to Millmerran all the temp gauges were back to normal and the engine had cooled back to normal range again.
Ger08 said
11:22 PM Mar 22, 2019
We use a yoga mat cut to size and shape. Does a brilliant job of protecting the rear window and at about $6 from Kmart a decidedly affordable option.
landy said
09:56 PM Mar 23, 2019
I may be completely wrong but I will be making some rock tamers over the next couple of weeks and I will not be going full width. over the years I have heard to many stories of people blowing diffs while using the full width style so I will err on the safe side. Landy.
Warren-Pat_01 said
10:31 PM Mar 23, 2019
I made my own Rock Tamers - similar to what denmonkey showed above.
The flaps are 2xHD mud flaps (per side) from Supercheap ($14 a set, I recall).
As noted above, do not make them full width! They also prevent stone chips on the car too.
PeterInSa said
10:55 AM Mar 24, 2019
Have been told at highway speed 90Km+ on Tar my Flaps are no where near vertical 45 to 60deg off the tar, so probably limited use to cut down a stone attach.
Wondered about a close chicken wire arrangement that would let the air thru ( stay vertical) and stop stones (downside pick up sticks in the bush)
Cost about $100,, can be mounted easily on many vehicles. Set about 500 off ground (allows for stones above wheel rut height). protected boat in NT and van for 11 years
Farmhat said
10:34 PM Mar 24, 2019
Hi there tommo. Are you towing a van? A stonestomper would work.
Joe
Plain Truth said
06:33 PM Mar 25, 2019
Made mine out of square tubing and an old conveyor belt.
The centre part stays on the car permanently,and I just slide the mudflaps into the tubing,and just lock them in place with two bolts a side.
Tommo, its not just the rear window to worry about its the stone chips on the paintwork too. I had this bad experience with large mud flaps fitted to the tug and a stone guard on the camper. Stones still rebounded back to the rear of the tug. Had to get the rear end resprayed. Window was OK because I had it covered. To note I also had a rear spare wheel carrier which didnt protect much.
Then I heard about StoneStomper expensive but it solved the issue of flying stones not just on my tug and caravan but seems to prevent stones fly up at other passing vehices as well unlike big mud flaps. It also keeps the dust down. So IMO one area where speding you hard earned is money well spent. we dont go anywhere without it fitted especially with the caravan now.
-- Edited by Moonraker on Tuesday 26th of March 2019 12:02:25 PM
tommo said
10:01 AM Mar 26, 2019
THANK YOU JUST ORDED ONE
Hylife said
07:04 PM Mar 28, 2019
+1 to the Stone Stomper.
If you are going to tow on any of the major outback rock highways then a Stone Stomper is the only thing that will 100% protect both your van and your Tug.
Yes, they are expensive, because they 100% work!
Yes, they wear out, because they 100% work!
We took our van on the Birdsville Track, Gibb River Rd, Kulumburu Rd, Original Old Savannah Way, and Cape York and never got one stone chip on either the front of the van or the back of the tug.
The Stone Stomper was returned for free repairs after the Birdsville Track because the Gibber rocks eat everything, even conveyer belting gets totally eaten on the Birdsville Track, but it was again shredded beyond repair by the time we got home.
I could have taken the view that it wasn't strong enough but on seeing how short a lifespan any type of rubber flap has, instead I decided that sacrificing your protection because it did its job so well, is better than sacrificing your van or tug, and even when it was shredded it still held together and did its job.
To their credit, when we got home I sent Christian at Stone Stomper some pictures of its destroyed state and they made us another one free of charge.
So, thumbs up to Stone Stomper!
rockylizard said
10:17 PM Mar 28, 2019
tommo wrote:
Anyone got a good idea on what they use to stop stone from flicking back and smashing the back window of my 200 LC, i looked at the rock tammer but at $500 i was wondering if there was anything else out there worth considering. Its not the money its getting the best thing.
I had one attached to the front of my previous van (used lots on gravel roads/offroad) and it was excellent. Never a stone to hit the van and all stones simply hit the mesh and dropped below the van.
Cheers - John
blaze said
01:36 AM Mar 29, 2019
I have travelled a lot of km with 4x4 and van/camper trailers on unsealed roads and never had a problem. I put it down to lower speed and sensible driving and lower tyre pressures
cheers
blaze
Anyone got a good idea on what they use to stop stone from flicking back and smashing the back window of my 200 LC, i looked at the rock tammer but at $500 i was wondering if there was anything else out there worth considering. Its not the money its getting the best thing.
Thanks in advise Regards Paul T
Cheers,
Peter
Stick with Velcro Patches/Dots - Good time to stock up on a few corflute panels if in NSW - that's what all the Election posters are. For the rest of the Country you will have to wait another couple of months for the Federal Election.
By the end of the weekend, I will have finsihed my DIY version.
I made it a while ago but the rubber I used was too thin and it shredded itself under normal use.
I picked up some new rubber just yesterday and will be swapping it in this weekend.
Once I've got that done, I'll stick up the video showing how I did it.
Really very simple though. a bar, u bolt, rubber and some screws. Done in under an hour
this ones not mine but you get the idea.
-- Edited by denmonkey on Friday 22nd of March 2019 01:48:50 PM
I bought two antispray Mudflaps from a truck accessories place Cut them basically in half and fixed them between two lengths of 20mm mild steel I had galvanised. Gave me four widths that were then mounted just behind the original mudflaps. Covered the whole width of the vehicle.
Does the job well and an added bonus cuts the spray as well. I think it cost me less than $100 in total excluding the stainless bolts I had on hand.
The Mudflaps are fairly easy to cut. Not Rubber anymore some sort of Plastic, A good Stanley Knife works well.
Full width flaps that come close to the ground are counter productive and should be banned in my view.
The volume of stones and dirt that they shower over other road users is unbelievable, and I would expect that they add to fuel consumption too.
I caught a pic of this one in Europe. It was a bitumen road. Imagine what happens on a gravel road.
Cheers,
Peter
If you want to see out the rear window. Get a piece of 2mm polycarbonate (NOT acrylic) from a small plastic suppler in an industrial area. If you score it a few times each side with a Stanley knife it will snap. Sand edges with Norton wet and dry paper with water & drop or detergent or soap to make the water wetter. (not the rubbish the big hardware store sells).
If drilling, take a slight edge of a drill bit to stop it biting into the plastic. Then use a Sutton Tools C101 deburring 90 degree counter sink to tidy up drilled holes.
That was precisely why I used anti spray mudflaps instead on conveyor belt rubber which some one else said is very durable. Never had any problems throwing stones and or gravel at other road users and if you get debris from the person in front on a dirt road You are too close behind anyway.
Here is the bought version:
Towing in hot weather with full width Flaps could cause the diff to overheat, limited air going past, suggest mud flaps position as per DM above.
Peter
My MAN has an Alison Auto gearbox and both it and the diff have a dash mounted temp gauge each. Aprox a sixty degree arc with a green range of about ten degrees then yellow for aprox thirty degrees before the red.
About Nov last year heading up the ranges from Brisbane to Toowoomba in 40+ degrees following an extremely slow B Double Both the gearbox and diff temps never made halfway up the green sector. Engine temp was OK but a lot higher than normal. I would say an overheating dif. is not a problem at all. By the time I reached the Turn Off Toowoomba to Millmerran all the temp gauges were back to normal and the engine had cooled back to normal range again.
Landy.
The flaps are 2xHD mud flaps (per side) from Supercheap ($14 a set, I recall).
As noted above, do not make them full width! They also prevent stone chips on the car too.
Wondered about a close chicken wire arrangement that would let the air thru ( stay vertical) and stop stones (downside pick up sticks in the bush)
Peter
Ah stuffed prev post,,, forgot to add text.
Cost about $100,, can be mounted easily on many vehicles. Set about 500 off ground (allows for stones above wheel rut height). protected boat in NT and van for 11 years
Hi there tommo. Are you towing a van? A stonestomper would work.
Joe
Made mine out of square tubing and an old conveyor belt.
The centre part stays on the car permanently,and I just slide the mudflaps into the tubing,and just lock them in place with two bolts a side.
Tommo, its not just the rear window to worry about its the stone chips on the paintwork too. I had this bad experience with large mud flaps fitted to the tug and a stone guard on the camper. Stones still rebounded back to the rear of the tug. Had to get the rear end resprayed. Window was OK because I had it covered. To note I also had a rear spare wheel carrier which didnt protect much.
Then I heard about StoneStomper expensive but it solved the issue of flying stones not just on my tug and caravan but seems to prevent stones fly up at other passing vehices as well unlike big mud flaps. It also keeps the dust down. So IMO one area where speding you hard earned is money well spent. we dont go anywhere without it fitted especially with the caravan now.
-- Edited by Moonraker on Tuesday 26th of March 2019 12:02:25 PM
THANK YOU JUST ORDED ONE
If you are going to tow on any of the major outback rock highways then a Stone Stomper is the only thing that will 100% protect both your van and your Tug.
Yes, they are expensive, because they 100% work!
Yes, they wear out, because they 100% work!
We took our van on the Birdsville Track, Gibb River Rd, Kulumburu Rd, Original Old Savannah Way, and Cape York and never got one stone chip on either the front of the van or the back of the tug.
The Stone Stomper was returned for free repairs after the Birdsville Track because the Gibber rocks eat everything, even conveyer belting gets totally eaten on the Birdsville Track, but it was again shredded beyond repair by the time we got home.
I could have taken the view that it wasn't strong enough but on seeing how short a lifespan any type of rubber flap has, instead I decided that sacrificing your protection because it did its job so well, is better than sacrificing your van or tug, and even when it was shredded it still held together and did its job.
To their credit, when we got home I sent Christian at Stone Stomper some pictures of its destroyed state and they made us another one free of charge.
So, thumbs up to Stone Stomper!
Gday...
Tommo ... why not consider one of these?
https://www.caravansplus.com.au/caravan-stone-shield-231m-p-14275.html
I had one attached to the front of my previous van (used lots on gravel roads/offroad) and it was excellent. Never a stone to hit the van and all stones simply hit the mesh and dropped below the van.
Cheers - John
cheers
blaze