Just wondering if anyone has used these in their van?
We do have a basic controller coming with our van (standard base offering) which I thought of upgrading. I've read about PWM and MPPT (and don't want to start any arguments) but the existing unit I believe does not have a specific calcium battery setting (van comes with one of these batteries) nor anything for lithium. Given that, I was tempted to upgrade it. (2x150W on van roof + a portable 200W blanket with dual van batteries, plan to free camp as much as we can)
These units I believe were an upgrade option, but I didn't have time to do a lot of research before signing off the van specs, and not worth a fee to make build changes. Given the 10% off ebay code finishing today, wondering if worth grabbing one for ~$400? Or are there comparable/better units for similar price? Are they basically a straight swap out?
Thanks.
swamp said
10:47 PM Mar 4, 2019
HI When I was looking there were
All the 25amp units Enerdrive ,Redarc , Projecta
The 30amp units OZ Charge Enerdrive units
40 amp plus units Projecta Redarc Enerdrive
There are cheaper and more expensive units Enerdrive 40A are canbe custom set to your liking ,not the cheapest but very good for what it offers .
Most important is not to starve the supply of volts and amps . Wire 2 cable pos and neg thru Anderson Plugs 120amps . Cable size min 25mmsq //3b&s cable. Voltdrop is .4 volt over 9mtrs carry 36 amps [batt volts will drop very little under max load ]. If the supply cable is to small units can run hot and if cable is 13mmsq or smaller may restrict output.
If u have a 3 way fridge On the car side//input side of the dc2dc wire a fuse onto Movement switch then to fridge. Fridge only operates when moving automatically.
-- Edited by swamp on Monday 4th of March 2019 10:48:40 PM
-- Edited by swamp on Monday 4th of March 2019 10:54:00 PM
Wimma said
04:51 PM Mar 6, 2019
Thanks swamp.
At this stage I'm unsure what cabling is in the van, but I'm trying to arrange a chat with the autoelec who does the wiring. Will ask what gauge is used, and how everything is connected up. At this stage I'm still looking into lithium (for the weight saving if nothing else), but have heard mixed comments on the cheaper ones.
If I do go that way, then I'd need to replace the existing controller, but the one I saw installed at the show didn't quite match the brochure the sales people sent me. Lots of unknowns :(
I'm trying to get some cables run in the vehicle, but hadn't looked at 3B&S - wondering how that would fit! I've run 6B&S down the door trim/floor capping to the rear for now, but haven't terminated, so could replace. Will look into it.
Get the van in a few weeks! Cheers.
swamp said
10:21 PM Mar 6, 2019
Hi
If u use 13mmsq for your application u will seriously be under supplying the charger not to mention if u have a 3way as well . Dc2dc may reduce output if supply is restricted . The situation gets pointless .
At 40 amps over 9mtr length 13mmsq gets approx. 1.0v drop plus connection volt drops = to much
Plus 3 way fridge say 12amps = 52 amps = approx. 1.25 volts volt drop
A dc to dc will probably run cooler if supplied a higher voltage
25mmsq//3b&s
At 52 amps over 9mtr length gets approx. = .64volt drop
Wimma said
10:29 PM Mar 11, 2019
No worries, will chat to the autoelec - he does their vans. I'm not sure what's in the van yet (wrt cable size).
For the vehicle I was intending on having separate cable runs for 12pin (fridge pins), grey anderson and red anderson, not trying to put over a single cable.
With 6B&S twin and 8B&S twin (might swap for another 6B&S) that's potentially 4 individual cables (depending on where he gets earth from), so hopefully enough to work with.
FYI the Projecta DC2DC recommends 8B&S up to 12m run, but I ran a separate 6B&S for it down the other/LHS of the vehicle anyway.
I'll discuss with the autoelec about 3B&S though, and what the van has.
Cheers for the input.
Noelpolar said
05:49 PM Apr 6, 2019
I have a Enerdrive 40a DC2DC in my van. Vehicle battery to rear anderson is a 5.5 meter run.... caravan anderson to DC unit in van is a 7.5 meter run.... so 13m of cable voltage loss in total (26m there and back). The enerdrive unit current limits when it's input voltge reaches about 11.7 volts... 13.5mm is too small over these sort of lengths. I would recommend 25mm2. I did my car in 32mm (via chassi rails).. I have a seperate run for van fridge etc as well in 6BS.... and another similar run for a rear always on anderson (airing up tyres, camping light etc).
I have 800w of solar feeding it as well.... 3 strings of 2 series pannels.... all works well.
-- Edited by Noelpolar on Saturday 6th of April 2019 05:52:32 PM
-- Edited by Noelpolar on Saturday 6th of April 2019 05:53:28 PM
-- Edited by Noelpolar on Saturday 6th of April 2019 05:59:03 PM
Just wondering if anyone has used these in their van?
We do have a basic controller coming with our van (standard base offering) which I thought of upgrading. I've read about PWM and MPPT (and don't want to start any arguments) but the existing unit I believe does not have a specific calcium battery setting (van comes with one of these batteries) nor anything for lithium. Given that, I was tempted to upgrade it.
(2x150W on van roof + a portable 200W blanket with dual van batteries, plan to free camp as much as we can)
These units I believe were an upgrade option, but I didn't have time to do a lot of research before signing off the van specs, and not worth a fee to make build changes. Given the 10% off ebay code finishing today, wondering if worth grabbing one for ~$400?
Or are there comparable/better units for similar price?
Are they basically a straight swap out?
Thanks.
HI
When I was looking there were
All the 25amp units Enerdrive ,Redarc , Projecta
The 30amp units
OZ Charge
Enerdrive units
40 amp plus units
Projecta
Redarc
Enerdrive
There are cheaper and more expensive units
Enerdrive 40A are canbe custom set to your liking ,not the cheapest but very good for what it offers .
Most important is not to starve the supply of volts and amps . Wire 2 cable pos and neg thru Anderson Plugs 120amps .
Cable size min 25mmsq //3b&s cable. Voltdrop is .4 volt over 9mtrs carry 36 amps [batt volts will drop very little under max load ]. If the supply cable is to small units can run hot and if cable is 13mmsq or smaller may restrict output.
If u have a 3 way fridge
On the car side//input side of the dc2dc wire a fuse onto Movement switch then to fridge. Fridge only operates when moving automatically.
-- Edited by swamp on Monday 4th of March 2019 10:48:40 PM
-- Edited by swamp on Monday 4th of March 2019 10:54:00 PM
Thanks swamp.
At this stage I'm unsure what cabling is in the van, but I'm trying to arrange a chat with the autoelec who does the wiring. Will ask what gauge is used, and how everything is connected up. At this stage I'm still looking into lithium (for the weight saving if nothing else), but have heard mixed comments on the cheaper ones.
If I do go that way, then I'd need to replace the existing controller, but the one I saw installed at the show didn't quite match the brochure the sales people sent me. Lots of unknowns :(
I'm trying to get some cables run in the vehicle, but hadn't looked at 3B&S - wondering how that would fit! I've run 6B&S down the door trim/floor capping to the rear for now, but haven't terminated, so could replace. Will look into it.
Get the van in a few weeks!
Cheers.
If u use 13mmsq for your application u will seriously be under supplying the charger not to mention if u have a 3way as well . Dc2dc may reduce output if supply is restricted . The situation gets pointless .
At 40 amps over 9mtr length 13mmsq gets approx. 1.0v drop plus connection volt drops = to much
Plus 3 way fridge say 12amps = 52 amps = approx. 1.25 volts volt drop
A dc to dc will probably run cooler if supplied a higher voltage
25mmsq//3b&s
At 52 amps over 9mtr length gets approx. = .64volt drop
For the vehicle I was intending on having separate cable runs for 12pin (fridge pins), grey anderson and red anderson, not trying to put over a single cable.
With 6B&S twin and 8B&S twin (might swap for another 6B&S) that's potentially 4 individual cables (depending on where he gets earth from), so hopefully enough to work with.
FYI the Projecta DC2DC recommends 8B&S up to 12m run, but I ran a separate 6B&S for it down the other/LHS of the vehicle anyway.
I'll discuss with the autoelec about 3B&S though, and what the van has.
Cheers for the input.
I have a Enerdrive 40a DC2DC in my van. Vehicle battery to rear anderson is a 5.5 meter run.... caravan anderson to DC unit in van is a 7.5 meter run.... so 13m of cable voltage loss in total (26m there and back). The enerdrive unit current limits when it's input voltge reaches about 11.7 volts... 13.5mm is too small over these sort of lengths. I would recommend 25mm2. I did my car in 32mm (via chassi rails).. I have a seperate run for van fridge etc as well in 6BS.... and another similar run for a rear always on anderson (airing up tyres, camping light etc).
I have 800w of solar feeding it as well.... 3 strings of 2 series pannels.... all works well.
-- Edited by Noelpolar on Saturday 6th of April 2019 05:52:32 PM
-- Edited by Noelpolar on Saturday 6th of April 2019 05:53:28 PM
-- Edited by Noelpolar on Saturday 6th of April 2019 05:59:03 PM