My portable 80w solar panels have the controller attached to the back, permanently wired to the panels & with about 4 metres of cables to connect to a battery with aligator clips - I want that to remain even though I realise it could be made more efficient as I use them in the campervan & at home for the tractor & ATV etc. - My query is that I understand you should connect the battery to a controller 1st before connecting to the battery - why? - can I cover the panels before connecting to a battery for the controller to work properly? - It seems to charge OK without doing that but does it mean that it may not perform its functions properly ?
David
Jaahn said
09:39 PM Jan 14, 2019
Hi daffy
"can I cover the panels before connecting to a battery for the controller to work properly?"
Yes I would recommend you do that, or just put them face down on the ground. Most instructions say to connect the battery first before connecting the panels. The internal circuit is powered up and protects the output 'transistors'.
Jaahn
daffyfrancis said
09:50 AM Jan 15, 2019
Thanks Jaahn.
David
Bobdown said
06:47 PM Jan 22, 2019
Hi David,
My portable panel has an Anderson plug on the end of the 5.0 m lead.
I connect it straight to the Anderson plug on the A Frame wiring harness that normally connects to the Tug, it works fine.
I also have alligator clips with a short bit of cable with an Anderson plug attached, that was supplied with the panel.
The correct way to connect is to first connect the alligator clips to the battery, then join the 2 Anderson plugs together,
that way you don't short your controller if your panel is in the sun and pumping out volts.
Can't beat Anderson plugs for a connector.
Regards Bob
daffyfrancis said
10:38 PM Jan 22, 2019
Hi Bob
Thanks for your reply. - The wiring cable, battery clips & removable connections to the controller fitted on the panels as supplied are of excellent quality.
As I understand & appreciate from Jaahn's reply & other info is that the wires should be attached to the battery first & then to the controller before the panels are outputting any power to the controller to avoid possible damage. - How does your method as described achieve this? -
Turning the panels face down on the ground to cut out charging whilst connecting the wiring from the battery to the panels/controller is an easy option for me.
David
T1 Terry said
06:36 PM Jan 23, 2019
daffyfrancis wrote:
Hi Bob
Thanks for your reply. - The wiring cable, battery clips & removable connections to the controller fitted on the panels as supplied are of excellent quality.
As I understand & appreciate from Jaahn's reply & other info is that the wires should be attached to the battery first & then to the controller before the panels are outputting any power to the controller to avoid possible damage. - How does your method as described achieve this? -
Turning the panels face down on the ground to cut out charging whilst connecting the wiring from the battery to the panels/controller is an easy option for me.
David
Certainly the easiest method and I don't understand why the manufacturer of these "all in one" portable panel set-ups don't put that in large letters in their instruction sheet.
T1 Terry
daffyfrancis said
07:07 PM Jan 23, 2019
Hi TI Terry,
Thanks for your confirmation & I agree with you on the lack of any useful instructions supplied.
David
Ron-D said
08:41 AM Jan 28, 2019
Am I missing something whats the big deal about connecting portable panels that job is so so basic mine just connects to the an Anderson Plug on the side of the van ,a two year old could do it,as far as setting up the connections its a nothing job .
Whenarewethere said
08:55 AM Jan 28, 2019
You will get more if the controller is at the battery & the wires manufacturers put on the back of panels is too light.
I pulled apart my fridge & replaced 55cm of cable internally as it was too light. 0.17 volts drop in voltage on this short bit of wire alone.
daffyfrancis said
09:06 AM Jan 28, 2019
Of course a 2 year old could connect panels but like some might not be able to read or take the time to try & understand a question as originally asked.
David
Whenarewethere said
09:36 AM Jan 28, 2019
The panels will be built to a price, not quality!
Controller on panel.
Crap controller.
No voltage adjustment for battery temperature.
No battery type setting.
Poor electrical connections.
Cheap copper plated clamps, or no original & non UV Anderson plug.
Non heatshrinked ends of wire.
To save money cable far to light for its length.
B grade individual solar cells.
Probably no low-iron toughened glass covering cells.
Overall voltage loss of no more than 0.2 volts for setup.
If you have the above setup it is easy to stop spikes from the solar panels.
-- Edited by Whenarewethere on Monday 28th of January 2019 09:40:02 AM
Ron-D said
04:34 PM Jan 28, 2019
Whenarewethere wrote:
You will get more if the controller is at the battery & the wires manufacturers put on the back of panels is too light.
I pulled apart my fridge & replaced 55cm of cable internally as it was too light. 0.17 volts drop in voltage on this short bit of wire alone.
My Victron regulator now sits beside the battery and the heap of junk that was supplied with the panels now resides in the garbage where it belongs ,
T1 Terry said
12:12 PM Jan 29, 2019
Whenarewethere wrote:
The panels will be built to a price, not quality!
Controller on panel.
Crap controller.
No voltage adjustment for battery temperature.
No battery type setting.
Poor electrical connections.
Cheap copper plated clamps, or no original & non UV Anderson plug.
Non heatshrinked ends of wire.
To save money cable far to light for its length.
B grade individual solar cells.
Probably no low-iron toughened glass covering cells.
Overall voltage loss of no more than 0.2 volts for setup.
If you have the above setup it is easy to stop spikes from the solar panels.
-- Edited by Whenarewethere on Monday 28th of January 2019 09:40:02 AM
Ya missed the bit about the controller's internal temp sensor tripping out because of the heat pumped through the panel straight into the controller glued on the back
These things are built by people with absolutely no idea when it comes to the requirements for good solar operation, but they do know how to make something that looks like it would do the job :lol:
T1 Terry
T1 Terry said
12:17 PM Jan 29, 2019
Ron-D wrote:
Whenarewethere wrote:
You will get more if the controller is at the battery & the wires manufacturers put on the back of panels is too light.
I pulled apart my fridge & replaced 55cm of cable internally as it was too light. 0.17 volts drop in voltage on this short bit of wire alone.
My Victron regulator now sits beside the battery and the heap of junk that was supplied with the panels now resides in the garbage where it belongs ,
I keep them for those people who wander into the shop and ask for a good quality solar controller, then go pale when you tell them the price, so I then offer them the rubbish one for $20. When they ask if it will do the same job I tell them quite clearly it won't, it will probably either under charge their battery or over charge and wreck it, but it's cheap :lol: Saves them buying the same thing on evil bay and expecting a different result. I haven't sold one yet, but ya just never know
T1 Terry
Aus-Kiwi said
09:08 AM Jan 30, 2019
Yes its safer to cover panels . But .,Do we flatten a battery before connecting ?? The main thing is not to connect onto a LIVE circuit . Fuse pulled or breaker turned off . Work on ONE wire at a time . Be ex line worker . Its second nature .,
Terryt said
02:45 PM Jan 30, 2019
Portable solar panel. Regulator on panel bypassed and short cable with Anderson plug on end Extension cable with Anderson plug each end. Anderson plug mounted on vehicle and connected to solar input of 25amp Projecta dc dc charger.
Could someone please explain in simple terms why it is better to
a) connect extension to dc dc charger and then to panel rather than.
b) connect extension to panel and then to dc dc charger
It seems to me that in both cases when you make the last connection power begins to flow.
Similarly if you lay the panel face down and connect, at the time you face the panel to the sun power starts. Ditto if you pull a fuse, connect and then replace the fuse.
The power hits the controller at the same time in each scenario. Why are you putting anything at risk depending on the order in which you connect.
NB I use a)
T1 Terry said
04:38 PM Jan 30, 2019
Hi Terryt,
It is not an issue with the way you are connecting up the solar because the DC to DC charger is already connected to the battery and ready to go.
The problem with which order to connect portable panels is when they have their own controller mounted on the solar panel and need to be connected to the battery first, then the panel exposed to the sun. That way the controller gets a chance to start operating and know what the battery voltage is before it sees the current and voltage from the solar panel, then it can either turn the mosfet transistor on or leave it turned off. It does cause issues within the controller when the solar input is applied before it has been powered up by the battery, quality ones just get confused and need a shut down/reboot, cheap ones just let the smoke out.
My portable 80w solar panels have the controller attached to the back, permanently wired to the panels & with about 4 metres of cables to connect to a battery with aligator clips - I want that to remain even though I realise it could be made more efficient as I use them in the campervan & at home for the tractor & ATV etc. - My query is that I understand you should connect the battery to a controller 1st before connecting to the battery - why? - can I cover the panels before connecting to a battery for the controller to work properly? - It seems to charge OK without doing that but does it mean that it may not perform its functions properly ?
David
Hi daffy
"can I cover the panels before connecting to a battery for the controller to work properly?"
Yes I would recommend you do that, or just put them face down on the ground. Most instructions say to connect the battery first before connecting the panels. The internal circuit is powered up and protects the output 'transistors'.
Jaahn
Thanks Jaahn.
David
My portable panel has an Anderson plug on the end of the 5.0 m lead.
I connect it straight to the Anderson plug on the A Frame wiring harness that normally connects to the Tug, it works fine.
I also have alligator clips with a short bit of cable with an Anderson plug attached, that was supplied with the panel.
The correct way to connect is to first connect the alligator clips to the battery, then join the 2 Anderson plugs together,
that way you don't short your controller if your panel is in the sun and pumping out volts.
Can't beat Anderson plugs for a connector.
Regards Bob
Hi Bob
Thanks for your reply. - The wiring cable, battery clips & removable connections to the controller fitted on the panels as supplied are of excellent quality.
As I understand & appreciate from Jaahn's reply & other info is that the wires should be attached to the battery first & then to the controller before the panels are outputting any power to the controller to avoid possible damage. - How does your method as described achieve this? -
Turning the panels face down on the ground to cut out charging whilst connecting the wiring from the battery to the panels/controller is an easy option for me.
David
Certainly the easiest method and I don't understand why the manufacturer of these "all in one" portable panel set-ups don't put that in large letters in their instruction sheet.
T1 Terry
Hi TI Terry,
Thanks for your confirmation & I agree with you on the lack of any useful instructions supplied.
David
Am I missing something whats the big deal about connecting portable panels that job is so so basic mine just connects to the an Anderson Plug on the side of the van ,a two year old could do it,as far as setting up the connections its a nothing job .
You will get more if the controller is at the battery & the wires manufacturers put on the back of panels is too light.
I pulled apart my fridge & replaced 55cm of cable internally as it was too light. 0.17 volts drop in voltage on this short bit of wire alone.
Of course a 2 year old could connect panels but like some might not be able to read or take the time to try & understand a question as originally asked.
David
The panels will be built to a price, not quality!
Controller on panel.
Crap controller.
No voltage adjustment for battery temperature.
No battery type setting.
Poor electrical connections.
Cheap copper plated clamps, or no original & non UV Anderson plug.
Non heatshrinked ends of wire.
To save money cable far to light for its length.
B grade individual solar cells.
Probably no low-iron toughened glass covering cells.
Overall voltage loss of no more than 0.2 volts for setup.
If you have the above setup it is easy to stop spikes from the solar panels.
-- Edited by Whenarewethere on Monday 28th of January 2019 09:40:02 AM
My Victron regulator now sits beside the battery and the heap of junk that was supplied with the panels now resides in the garbage where it belongs ,
Ya missed the bit about the controller's internal temp sensor tripping out because of the heat pumped through the panel straight into the controller glued on the back
These things are built by people with absolutely no idea when it comes to the requirements for good solar operation, but they do know how to make something that looks like it would do the job :lol:
T1 Terry
I keep them for those people who wander into the shop and ask for a good quality solar controller, then go pale when you tell them the price, so I then offer them the rubbish one for $20. When they ask if it will do the same job I tell them quite clearly it won't, it will probably either under charge their battery or over charge and wreck it, but it's cheap :lol: Saves them buying the same thing on evil bay and expecting a different result. I haven't sold one yet, but ya just never know
T1 Terry
Could someone please explain in simple terms why it is better to
a) connect extension to dc dc charger and then to panel rather than.
b) connect extension to panel and then to dc dc charger
It seems to me that in both cases when you make the last connection power begins to flow.
Similarly if you lay the panel face down and connect, at the time you face the panel to the sun power starts. Ditto if you pull a fuse, connect and then replace the fuse.
The power hits the controller at the same time in each scenario. Why are you putting anything at risk depending on the order in which you connect.
NB I use a)
It is not an issue with the way you are connecting up the solar because the DC to DC charger is already connected to the battery and ready to go.
The problem with which order to connect portable panels is when they have their own controller mounted on the solar panel and need to be connected to the battery first, then the panel exposed to the sun. That way the controller gets a chance to start operating and know what the battery voltage is before it sees the current and voltage from the solar panel, then it can either turn the mosfet transistor on or leave it turned off. It does cause issues within the controller when the solar input is applied before it has been powered up by the battery, quality ones just get confused and need a shut down/reboot, cheap ones just let the smoke out.
T1 Terry