Need to have the van pretty level when overnighting, been using cut squares of ply wood and wooden blocks to run up on. The ramps I wonder how effective they are, we have just left a place where the sites were loose coarse sand. from what I can see of the ramps, they are hollow from underneath. Wouldn't they just sink into the sand ?
Also with the Jayco independent suspension, you would have to use a long ramp at the back, and a ramp that has the add on piece between the wheels. How well does the parking braked wheel work on the ramped up wheel ?, I had the van jump forward and hit the tow bar of the ute on a sloping site. I will now be reviewing the wheel chocks as well as they just dug in the sand.
Just wondering about others and their experiences.
rockylizard said
09:46 AM Sep 28, 2018
Gday...
I have these ramps -
But I also have blocks of wood for when the surface is 'loose' eg sand, deep gravel etc.
Cheers - John
Delta18 said
10:02 AM Sep 28, 2018
If the sand is too soft to hold the weight on a ramp I dig holes on the high side for the wheels to drop into.
Fill the holes again when leaving.
Kebbin said
10:33 AM Sep 28, 2018
My next set will be the Anderson Leveling Blocks have a look at YouTube video.
SouthernComfort said
11:23 AM Sep 28, 2018
I have same ramps as Rockylizard's, with the locking chock. They're lighter than wood blocks and very tough, also easy to use as you can keep reversing up the different levels 'till your spirit level says 'stop'. I don't rely on the brake too much and always use good chocks all round, never had the van move. Soft sand will always require a bit more reinforcement of course.
Tony Bev said
11:46 AM Sep 28, 2018
I have the same type of plastic wheel ramps, as (John) Rockylizard, Ian
I do not have the wheel chocks, which I believe can be purchased separately
With my front wheel drive motorhome, I avoid any soft sand
But...
The plastic wheel ramps are much lighter than blocks of wood
If you look at the underside of the wheel ramps, you will notice that the flat load bearing area, is probably larger than the tyre footprint
vince56 said
04:26 PM Sep 28, 2018
+1 for the plastic ramps with chocks. (don't trust the handbrake on the van)
elliemike said
08:23 PM Sep 28, 2018
Buy good quality ones. The cheaper ones will break and split after a a few years.
Aus-Kiwi said
08:34 PM Sep 28, 2018
I have air bags on my motorhome . Car carrying trailer . Mainly so I can lower trailer so ramp angle is reduced . I have found bags help in leveling . Cant beat hydro leveling system tho !!
PeterD said
11:06 AM Sep 29, 2018
iana wrote:Also with the Jayco independent suspension, you would have to use a long ramp at the back, and a ramp that has the add on piece between the wheels.
Vans with independent suspension (ie not load sharing) it is best to have the same lift under both wheels. Read through this guide - How To Level Your Caravan. It has a set of blocks where each block is in two pieces, you use the lower part in between the wheels and whan you get some lift you can add the higher bit.
Radar said
10:03 AM Sep 30, 2018
We have and use red plastic ones from Repco with wheel chocks. They do get a work out surprisingly, mostly one at a time to adjust the caravan, light in weight and been using them now for 6 years. We leave them buggy strapped to the A frame basket handy and ready to use as its the first thing you need after the spirit level when you park. Good value.
We do carry a couple of short lenghts of pine garden sleeper at bottom of my front boot for the extreme times to get caravan level.
HINT. Just remember to drive forward a short distance when you have selected where you need the caravan and reverse straight to take the tension of the tyres before dropping the caravan and that will limit the amount of movement of the caravan from the towball when you raise it. Hope that makes some sense.
Warren-Pat_01 said
09:34 PM Sep 30, 2018
G'day Ian,
I use the red ramps similar to rockylizard & Radar + a reasonably solid rubber wheel chock. The ramps came from Freddy's here in Townsville, the chock from Supercheap.
There were two types when I bought the red ones - those for single axle & those for dual axles. I recall they are rated at 4T. The van does not move & the handbrake is fully operational as well.
I carry some wooden blocks in case more height is required somewhere.
If I only require a small lift, I use a block I had for the camper - it is just a steady rise, not stepped like the others but not as high.
Cupie said
07:36 PM Oct 1, 2018
Radar wrote:
We have and use red plastic ones from Repco with wheel chocks. They do get a work out surprisingly, mostly one at a time to adjust the caravan, light in weight and been using them now for 6 years. We leave them buggy strapped to the A frame basket handy and ready to use as its the first thing you need after the spirit level when you park. Good value.
We do carry a couple of short lenghts of pine garden sleeper at bottom of my front boot for the extreme times to get caravan level.
HINT. Just remember to drive forward a short distance when you have selected where you need the caravan and reverse straight to take the tension of the tyres before dropping the caravan and that will limit the amount of movement of the caravan from the towball when you raise it. Hope that makes some sense.
A great hint that I learnt the hard way. Had lots of worries when the van lurched forward & sometimes to one side before I learnt this lesson.
I use long plastic ramps & chocks and I carry a couple of bits of bright yellow painted marine ply for a soft soil base. I can use them for under the jack too if ever needed. Less likely to leave the stand out yellow bits behind, though I did leave a set of yellow wheel chocks behind at a Mt.Isa CP! So there you go, nothing is fool proof.
I dumped my fancy set of DIY interlocking NZ Oregon (Douglas Fir?) ramps when the plastic ones came on the market.
I can put one under each of the dual wheels if required but often one wheel is enough.
My spirit level is fixed to the A frame & calibrated to the floor in front of the fridge.
I never ever trust the van's hand brake.
-- Edited by Cupie on Monday 1st of October 2018 07:42:08 PM
Warren-Pat_01 said
01:12 PM Oct 2, 2018
Hi Ian,
Autobarn have the red set in their new catalogue for $45 (same as I paid), chocks are an extra $15.
Hand brake? I cannot drive off with mine on .
iana said
05:15 PM Oct 2, 2018
Thanks all, since been doing a bit of drive through camping at parks, or free camping and leaving the ute hooked up, just driving up on some plywood squares, and pine blocks seem to work well. Interestingly, the van seems to stand very steady when left hooked up to the ute, no stays or jockey wheel down.
Greg 1 said
10:37 PM Oct 4, 2018
Yep. Have the red ones as well. They are considered essential equipment in our van. Work well pretty much anywhere.
mickle said
05:34 AM Oct 9, 2018
Hi Just replaced our Sterling for a Silverline 21,6 managers special , had airbags self leveling just push the button , push again and it lowers van , push again for travel,
raises up to 60mm ,so easy , no ramps great idea , but around $ 3500.
Need to have the van pretty level when overnighting, been using cut squares of ply wood and wooden blocks to run up on. The ramps I wonder how effective they are, we have just left a place where the sites were loose coarse sand. from what I can see of the ramps, they are hollow from underneath. Wouldn't they just sink into the sand ?
Also with the Jayco independent suspension, you would have to use a long ramp at the back, and a ramp that has the add on piece between the wheels. How well does the parking braked wheel work on the ramped up wheel ?, I had the van jump forward and hit the tow bar of the ute on a sloping site. I will now be reviewing the wheel chocks as well as they just dug in the sand.
Just wondering about others and their experiences.
Gday...
I have these ramps -
But I also have blocks of wood for when the surface is 'loose' eg sand, deep gravel etc.
Cheers - John
If the sand is too soft to hold the weight on a ramp I dig holes on the high side for the wheels to drop into.
Fill the holes again when leaving.
I do not have the wheel chocks, which I believe can be purchased separately
With my front wheel drive motorhome, I avoid any soft sand
But...
The plastic wheel ramps are much lighter than blocks of wood
If you look at the underside of the wheel ramps, you will notice that the flat load bearing area, is probably larger than the tyre footprint
Buy good quality ones. The cheaper ones will break and split after a a few years.
Vans with independent suspension (ie not load sharing) it is best to have the same lift under both wheels. Read through this guide - How To Level Your Caravan. It has a set of blocks where each block is in two pieces, you use the lower part in between the wheels and whan you get some lift you can add the higher bit.
We have and use red plastic ones from Repco with wheel chocks. They do get a work out surprisingly, mostly one at a time to adjust the caravan, light in weight and been using them now for 6 years. We leave them buggy strapped to the A frame basket handy and ready to use as its the first thing you need after the spirit level when you park. Good value.
We do carry a couple of short lenghts of pine garden sleeper at bottom of my front boot for the extreme times to get caravan level.
HINT. Just remember to drive forward a short distance when you have selected where you need the caravan and reverse straight to take the tension of the tyres before dropping the caravan and that will limit the amount of movement of the caravan from the towball when you raise it. Hope that makes some sense.
I use the red ramps similar to rockylizard & Radar + a reasonably solid rubber wheel chock. The ramps came from Freddy's here in Townsville, the chock from Supercheap.
There were two types when I bought the red ones - those for single axle & those for dual axles. I recall they are rated at 4T. The van does not move & the handbrake is fully operational as well.
I carry some wooden blocks in case more height is required somewhere.
If I only require a small lift, I use a block I had for the camper - it is just a steady rise, not stepped like the others but not as high.
A great hint that I learnt the hard way. Had lots of worries when the van lurched forward & sometimes to one side before I learnt this lesson.
I use long plastic ramps & chocks and I carry a couple of bits of bright yellow painted marine ply for a soft soil base. I can use them for under the jack too if ever needed. Less likely to leave the stand out yellow bits behind, though I did leave a set of yellow wheel chocks behind at a Mt.Isa CP! So there you go, nothing is fool proof.
I dumped my fancy set of DIY interlocking NZ Oregon (Douglas Fir?) ramps when the plastic ones came on the market.
I can put one under each of the dual wheels if required but often one wheel is enough.
My spirit level is fixed to the A frame & calibrated to the floor in front of the fridge.
I never ever trust the van's hand brake.
-- Edited by Cupie on Monday 1st of October 2018 07:42:08 PM
Autobarn have the red set in their new catalogue for $45 (same as I paid), chocks are an extra $15.
Hand brake? I cannot drive off with mine on .
Hi Just replaced our Sterling for a Silverline 21,6 managers special , had airbags self leveling just push the button , push again and it lowers van , push again for travel,
raises up to 60mm ,so easy , no ramps great idea , but around $ 3500.
Mickle from Mildura.