A few weeks ago, We were towing our 24ft caravan up some reasonable hills, and got stuck behind a semi, I kid you not, if the driver had gone any slower he would be going backwards. My scan-gauge normally show a gearbox temperature of 102' but as we slowly chugged behind, the temperature quickly started to soar, the temperature was up to 113' when I put it into manual and dropping gears bring the temperature back. A gadget well worth the money. Yes Macka the torque converter was locked.
rockylizard said
10:26 PM Oct 31, 2017
Gday...
I too have a Scanguage II as well ... installed it about four years ago after getting an error code I couldn't clear. Thankfully not a code to cause me to not continue travelling.
Anyway, the best thing about it is that I have not had a single error code since installing it so it has been excellent insurance. I hope that continues.
Just for interest.
What speed were down to?
What gear were you in when stuck behind the truck?
What revs were you pulling in that gear?
I am definitely prepared to be wrong, but one would think that at low speeds (eg 40kph), low gear (eg 1st/2nd) and high revs (eg 2700-3000rpm) it should not have caused any problems.
But as I sed ... I am definitely prepared to be wrong.
cheers - John
iana said
10:30 PM Oct 31, 2017
Sorry Rocky, no idea, I would have thought the speed was around 5-10kpa, its the slowest I have ever been behind a truck, he was a road train with liquid tanks as load.
rockylizard said
10:37 PM Oct 31, 2017
Gday...
Apologise if this sounds 'smart-a**e' ... but surely before you got down to that speed - 5-10kph - one would have taken it out of auto/drive and put it in manual and been down to 2nd and then 1st before 10kph.
On long, steep hills I am into 'manual' mode early and then down to 4th then 3rd and then 2nd if I got to 30kph. I have even been down to 1st up the Toowoomba hill stuck behind a slow truck.
I have yet to see more than 108degC on my Scanguage II even up that hill - or ever for that matter.
Anyway, Scanguage II (and similar kit) are well worthwhile having installed .. and taking notice of.
cheers - John
Delta18 said
10:40 PM Oct 31, 2017
iana wrote:
Sorry Rocky, no idea, I would have thought the speed was around 5-10kpa, its the slowest I have ever been behind a truck, he was a road train with liquid tanks as load.
I have a scan gauge 2 on order as we (I) type, to keep an eye on trans temp in the new 6 speed auto we'll have next week.
Just curious, you were doing 5 -10kmh when it started overheating so you "changed to manual & dropped a few gears"!
What gear do you reckon it was in before you changed down?
Cheers Neil
iana said
11:17 PM Oct 31, 2017
Hi Delta, I have a bad short term memory, so I don't have a minute by minute log of the events, we were going up and down, and had traffic weaving in about us. It was the first serious incline tow I have done in the van, and also the first time using manual gears.
My point was mainly that the scan-gauge really was a great help, and would recommend it to anyone. We both have the same van except ours is a couple of feet longer. m towing with a BT50.
macka17 said
11:20 PM Oct 31, 2017
Here you go Pete.
View from our front\side deck out to North Keppel.
MY photo again...I'll change it every week ok.
Take you round the world with my NIKON.
---------------------------
Scan Guages fine hey.
I've had mine for yonks. Voltage. Temp. Boost and Fuel guages on first screen others on second. Advises on fuel capacity. Usage, what's left in tank. Goes on forever. Everybody should have one. I tried "Torque Pro" first with old ph, but not near as good. That. with my Converter Lockup (Manual) Chip, and throttle lag sw (on order.) Should just about do me hey.
All I need now is a good car. Chuckle.
Nah. D-max will do with my light rig.
You get nothing really to warn you anymore. just a light of buzzer. AFTER the fact. Guages give it DURING the fact.
Another good thing a person should have if towing with Auto. A Transm cooler. over and above what's supplied. $200 will get a good one on net. I got the Ally Cylindrical one with longtitudal fins.
Next Transm flush (which you should have OVER a change.) you get. pay to have it in line and away you go. Even lower temp's. NEEDED up here. North of Gladdie.
Mine (S.G2) Is mounted on dash right in front of my face. GPS with speedo screen just off to left. Both at eye level near. don't have to look down for anything.
-- Edited by macka17 on Tuesday 31st of October 2017 11:23:56 PM
-- Edited by macka17 on Tuesday 31st of October 2017 11:44:51 PM
iana said
07:47 AM Nov 1, 2017
Macka, I knew you wouldn't be able to resist!, The Ford ranger and the BT50 don't have a transmission cooler as such, but have a heat exchanger mounted at the gearbox, and use the engine coolant flowing through it to take the heat away, fitting a transmission cooler in front of the radiator and plumbing it into this system costs big bickies. That's why I brought the Scan-gauge, and hope to maintain transmission temperature between 102-103'. The next step is to work out what K's before I get a transmission flush done.
Can the Scan-gauge show the gear the vehicle is in, when in auto, all I have is the letter "D", but that would be a help.
I was camped next to a guy who had a new BT, and was a mechanic servicing them, and at last someone who sounded as though he knew what he was talking about. Explained the oil type situation to me, and also said that driving in "S" mode locked the torque convertor.
rockylizard said
08:41 AM Nov 1, 2017
iana wrote:
SNIP~~~
Can the Scan-gauge show the gear the vehicle is in, when in auto, all I have is the letter "D", but that would be a help.
SNIP~~~ driving in "S" mode locked the torque converter.
Gday...
Not all transmissions/vehicles show what gear the tranny is in when in D .. or even S. (Luckily the Landy does)
Also, it seems that most manufacturers suggest (mandate?) towing in S.
Again, apologise if this sounds smart-a**e, but a good practice when towing is that at the top of a long decline, slip the transmission into 'manual' and SELECT the gear you want to hold for the descent ... and then downshift manually if the 'selected' gear doesn't hold well enough. Obviously, feathering the brakes for short periods as required.
Conversely, when approaching a steep climb - particularly if it is a long one - as you begin the climb, shift the transmission into 'manual' make sure it is in 4th and then downshift as required all the way to 1st if necessary, maintaining about 2,500-3,000rpm irrespective of the speed you are able to maintain up the climb. Let the revs (and then the gear) determine the KPH.
The torque converter should be locked when in 'manual' - most modern transmissions do - circa 2005+. Although I am not that familiar with the "utes" and don't mind if I get howled down.
This should keep all the temps in control and subject the motor and transmission to less stress/load than letting it "find its own gear".
... and to ensure longevity of the transmission, full flush, filter and fluid change every 40,000Km is recommended when towing - no matter what the manufacturer has suggested in the maintenance schedule.
Again, apologies if that is suggesting ya muvver sucks eggs.
Cheers - John
iana said
09:05 AM Nov 1, 2017
Thanks John, all good info. Got to be careful on here, posted as a general subject, don't want to get too technical for fear of upsetting others. Its the first diesel I have owned, and surprised at how well it tows. I am very deaf, so have to use visual rather than hearing now to see how the motor is ticking along.
macka17 said
01:19 PM Nov 1, 2017
Iana.
Don't know if you'll be much deafer than this one. Draglines. excavators. Cranes and Dozers all my life.
Plus boat\ship engine rooms.
Try sitting in the cab of a Band and clutches dragline (Bucyrus. Link Belt etc.) for a few 12 hr shifts.
VERY large diesel just behind your head and all the machinery in there with you. Didn't use plugs in those days either. The BEST machines. Bar none.
I have 2 Aids for when with people.
With your diesel. Drive on the Tacho and Speedo.
Get to KNOW the speed of veh. VISUALLY At what rev's. in EACH gear.
Then you can be deaf as a post.
I've done it for 40 yrs. (Patrol. Towing. Change UP at 2700\2800. down around 2200 rev's. in 3.4.5 cogs.Manual.)
Also. Having a 4 spd D Max 2010.
I use a Transm Lockup sw. to preselect. and hold. all my gears.
Just remember to trip it off b4 stopping at lights etc. It DOES stall your motor.
Cooling water at running temp's? for transm?.
I think I'd rather have an inbuilt cooler using air. Much lower temp's.
Take a reading of coolant temp's sometine.
I have one of those $25 Laser temp reading guns.
Point. shoot. read temp's. Magic.
And "Servicing" an Auto is useless apart from filter swap, and checking for swarf.
It only drops around 5 ltrs or so of the 15'17 ltr contents.
The REST of the dirty Burnt brown stuff just swims round with the couple of new ltrs you added.
Does a great deal of good for transm.. Yes.
ALWAYS flush the lot. Simple and easy.
Your Mazda should have a drain plug to dump the lot. Somewhere..
Surely???.
Look for a hose in line.
iana said
09:03 PM Nov 1, 2017
Changing the transmission oil on the Rangers and BT50's is best left for those who can put the car up on a hoist, there is a drain plug, but the filling point is high up on the gearboxes side, there is no dip stick to check. I will be leaving that one for someone else.
I'm coming up to 50,000 on the transmission now, I'll have a chat to Mazda re the oil flush.
macka17 said
12:13 AM Nov 2, 2017
Bottom of or near to is filling level on Transmissions.
Double jointed fingers of at least 6inches with an 8inch wrist
are a std requirement for those jobs.
There's probably a small cover under carpet ubber on floor pan to give access.
WHATEVER they do.
Make SURE... They drain fully and refill fully.
A running flush is best way to get ALL the crap and brown s--t out of it.
Look on Mazda\Ford ute forums and ask a question.
Craig1 said
10:12 PM Nov 2, 2017
Once again, OzMazda Forum has a good search function and lots of topics about BT50, trans oil cooler fitted for around $5-6 hundred. Supposedly " sealed for life" auto trans. But I would say proper change fluid and filter 80-100 thousand. Yes filler plug is a triple jointed exercise. cheers Craig
A few weeks ago, We were towing our 24ft caravan up some reasonable hills, and got stuck behind a semi, I kid you not, if the driver had gone any slower he would be going backwards. My scan-gauge normally show a gearbox temperature of 102' but as we slowly chugged behind, the temperature quickly started to soar, the temperature was up to 113' when I put it into manual and dropping gears bring the temperature back. A gadget well worth the money. Yes Macka the torque converter was locked.
Gday...
I too have a Scanguage II as well ... installed it about four years ago after getting an error code I couldn't clear. Thankfully not a code to cause me to not continue travelling.
Anyway, the best thing about it is that I have not had a single error code since installing it
so it has been excellent insurance. I hope that continues.
Just for interest.
I am definitely prepared to be wrong, but one would think that at low speeds (eg 40kph), low gear (eg 1st/2nd) and high revs (eg 2700-3000rpm) it should not have caused any problems.
But as I sed ... I am definitely prepared to be wrong.
cheers - John
Gday...
Apologise if this sounds 'smart-a**e' ... but surely before you got down to that speed - 5-10kph - one would have taken it out of auto/drive and put it in manual and been down to 2nd and then 1st before 10kph.
On long, steep hills I am into 'manual' mode early and then down to 4th then 3rd and then 2nd if I got to 30kph. I have even been down to 1st up the Toowoomba hill stuck behind a slow truck.
I have yet to see more than 108degC on my Scanguage II even up that hill - or ever for that matter.
Anyway, Scanguage II (and similar kit) are well worthwhile having installed .. and taking notice of.
cheers - John
I have a scan gauge 2 on order as we (I) type, to keep an eye on trans temp in the new 6 speed auto we'll have next week.
Just curious, you were doing 5 -10kmh when it started overheating so you "changed to manual & dropped a few gears"!
What gear do you reckon it was in before you changed down?
Cheers Neil
My point was mainly that the scan-gauge really was a great help, and would recommend it to anyone. We both have the same van except ours is a couple of feet longer. m towing with a BT50.
Here you go Pete.
View from our front\side deck out to North Keppel.
MY photo again...I'll change it every week ok.
Take you round the world with my NIKON.
---------------------------
Scan Guages fine hey.
I've had mine for yonks. Voltage. Temp. Boost and Fuel guages on first screen others on second.
Advises on fuel capacity. Usage, what's left in tank. Goes on forever.
Everybody should have one.
I tried "Torque Pro" first with old ph, but not near as good.
That. with my Converter Lockup (Manual) Chip, and throttle lag sw (on order.)
Should just about do me hey.
All I need now is a good car. Chuckle.
Nah. D-max will do with my light rig.
You get nothing really to warn you anymore. just a light of buzzer. AFTER the fact.
Guages give it DURING the fact.
Another good thing a person should have if towing with Auto.
A Transm cooler. over and above what's supplied. $200 will get a good one on net.
I got the Ally Cylindrical one with longtitudal fins.
Next Transm flush (which you should have OVER a change.) you get.
pay to have it in line and away you go.
Even lower temp's. NEEDED up here. North of Gladdie.
Mine (S.G2) Is mounted on dash right in front of my face. GPS with speedo screen just off to left. Both at eye level near. don't have to look down for anything.
-- Edited by macka17 on Tuesday 31st of October 2017 11:23:56 PM
-- Edited by macka17 on Tuesday 31st of October 2017 11:44:51 PM
Can the Scan-gauge show the gear the vehicle is in, when in auto, all I have is the letter "D", but that would be a help.
I was camped next to a guy who had a new BT, and was a mechanic servicing them, and at last someone who sounded as though he knew what he was talking about. Explained the oil type situation to me, and also said that driving in "S" mode locked the torque convertor.
Gday...
Not all transmissions/vehicles show what gear the tranny is in when in D .. or even S. (Luckily the Landy does)
Also, it seems that most manufacturers suggest (mandate?) towing in S.
Again, apologise if this sounds smart-a**e, but a good practice when towing is that at the top of a long decline, slip the transmission into 'manual' and SELECT the gear you want to hold for the descent ... and then downshift manually if the 'selected' gear doesn't hold well enough. Obviously, feathering the brakes for short periods as required.
Conversely, when approaching a steep climb - particularly if it is a long one - as you begin the climb, shift the transmission into 'manual' make sure it is in 4th and then downshift as required all the way to 1st if necessary, maintaining about 2,500-3,000rpm irrespective of the speed you are able to maintain up the climb. Let the revs (and then the gear) determine the KPH.
The torque converter should be locked when in 'manual' - most modern transmissions do - circa 2005+. Although I am not that familiar with the "utes" and don't mind if I get howled down.
This should keep all the temps in control and subject the motor and transmission to less stress/load than letting it "find its own gear".
... and to ensure longevity of the transmission, full flush, filter and fluid change every 40,000Km is recommended when towing - no matter what the manufacturer has suggested in the maintenance schedule.
Again, apologies if that is suggesting ya muvver sucks eggs.
Cheers - John
Don't know if you'll be much deafer than this one. Draglines. excavators. Cranes and Dozers all my life.
Plus boat\ship engine rooms.
Try sitting in the cab of a Band and clutches dragline (Bucyrus. Link Belt etc.) for a few 12 hr shifts.
VERY large diesel just behind your head and all the machinery in there with you. Didn't use plugs in those days either. The BEST machines. Bar none.
I have 2 Aids for when with people.
With your diesel. Drive on the Tacho and Speedo.
Get to KNOW the speed of veh. VISUALLY At what rev's. in EACH gear.
Then you can be deaf as a post.
I've done it for 40 yrs. (Patrol. Towing. Change UP at 2700\2800. down around 2200 rev's. in 3.4.5 cogs.Manual.)
Also. Having a 4 spd D Max 2010.
I use a Transm Lockup sw. to preselect. and hold. all my gears.
Just remember to trip it off b4 stopping at lights etc. It DOES stall your motor.
Cooling water at running temp's? for transm?.
I think I'd rather have an inbuilt cooler using air. Much lower temp's.
Take a reading of coolant temp's sometine.
I have one of those $25 Laser temp reading guns.
Point. shoot. read temp's. Magic.
And "Servicing" an Auto is useless apart from filter swap, and checking for swarf.
It only drops around 5 ltrs or so of the 15'17 ltr contents.
The REST of the dirty Burnt brown stuff just swims round with the couple of new ltrs you added.
Does a great deal of good for transm.. Yes.
ALWAYS flush the lot. Simple and easy.
Your Mazda should have a drain plug to dump the lot. Somewhere..
Surely???.
Look for a hose in line.
I'm coming up to 50,000 on the transmission now, I'll have a chat to Mazda re the oil flush.
Double jointed fingers of at least 6inches with an 8inch wrist
are a std requirement for those jobs.
There's probably a small cover under carpet
ubber on floor pan to give access.
WHATEVER they do.
Make SURE... They drain fully and refill fully.
A running flush is best way to get ALL the crap and brown s--t out of it.
Look on Mazda\Ford ute forums and ask a question.