Hi there folks... I'm looking for simple guidance on how to replace my clutch slave cylinder on my hiace van. It's weeping from the boot, and I've never done this before.
Any links to videos or clear advice is welcomed.
Many thanks đđ»
Joe winter said
03:40 PM Oct 2, 2017
Also, I'd love to know (before I order parts)
Is it best to replace slave and master at same time... Or is this unnecessary?
*I'm after the simplest, but reliable solution.
;)
hako said
04:16 PM Oct 2, 2017
Put "Replace clutch slave 97 hiace diesel 3L" into Google - I just did and there are heaps of videos and written instructions there. Hilux model is same.
Simplest method is put a new cup in the slave cylinder after honing the bore with wet and dry paper....under $10.
Good Luck.
macka17 said
02:58 AM Oct 3, 2017
Whoa.
Hone it with a variable HONE ONLY.
to keep BORE parallel.
Repco sell to suit. 1\2 to 1 in 1 to 2in etc. Sorry Metric.
They are two items. one at each end of line. Seal kits come for both. Recond for both? new for both.
D-Max Master near $200. Yours would be dearer.
Rotate hone as you draw it back and forth to diagonal cut the bore and NOT leave possible fluid leak lines. One way then t'other.
IF you have to hone such that piston sloppy with new seals on.
Replace it. Bore gone.
My kit has 3 sets of 3x stones. Fine. Med. Coarse.
90% of time. Med. fine ok.
Slave kit's easy to install. master a lot more. be careful
DON'T touch Master unless it "misty" or leaky round end rubber cup.
"Leave well enuff alone". OLD school that works, and is very good idea.
Also a good time to flush whole system from master. Drain Complete. Pour some clean fluid through.to flush out crap. Reconnect New? slave. Fill with fluid and bleed as per instructions. ( 2 of you.) One on pedal. one topping up cylinder is easiest.
Can be done by one. But not recommended to novice. Bleeding.
Do NOT let fluid get too low. Or you have to start over. Pisses you off.
Have fun
-- Edited by macka17 on Tuesday 3rd of October 2017 03:04:01 AM
macka17 said
03:02 AM Oct 3, 2017
PS.
I'm a Wksp Manual in general. NOT on individual veh's
Comes with taking your trade training in 50's.
ALL old school. Covers general not specific brands.
Plus all Fuel and electrics\onics, waaaaaay superseded.
blaze said
04:59 AM Oct 3, 2017
Joe winter wrote:
Also, I'd love to know (before I order parts) Is it best to replace slave and master at same time... Or is this unnecessary? *I'm after the simplest, but reliable solution. ;)
Not necessary but advisable because the one that's not replaced will leak not long after
+1 for just buy a new one and replace. Cheap to buy now. Just get the correct one for your model as there are several types probably and not necessarily all the same as the Hiluxs as people on here assume. Contact the seller first before ordering and give your details off the identification plate.
I would not replace the master cylinder unless it is leaking. A very ackward job to do on a Hiace !
Jaahn
macka17 said
11:22 AM Oct 3, 2017
As above the Master. Remove from Booster etc.
BUT. If you haven't done these things b4.
Honing, Rekitting one. Once. Gives you an insight on which does what and why. For future possible needs out in stick. Wherever.
Seal kits for wheel cyl's and clutch. are always in my bush pack. You never know.
Even if you never do it again.
MORE insight into the workings of what carries you around. And STOPS you when required. Is gud.
ALL Knowledge, is good knowledge. More the merrier.
Ps. Another little item.
The V.I.N. No under bonnet AND on papers if easier.
Taken to dealer.
Will identify EVERY individual part on your group of that model.
Guaranteed. Anywhere in the world.
-- Edited by macka17 on Tuesday 3rd of October 2017 11:25:11 AM
-- Edited by macka17 on Tuesday 3rd of October 2017 10:31:27 PM
Tony Bev said
02:11 PM Oct 3, 2017
May I be one of the first, to welcome you to the forum, Joe Winter
I am not a mechanic
As hako has said, there are plenty of tutorials on the net
In a normal situation, I would not replace a master cylinder, just because the slave cylinder needs replacing
I would buy the clutch slave cylinder as mustangdude has said, and not worry about, honing the bore of the leaking slave cylinder, to replace the cup seal
Changing the clutch slave cylinder is normally a straight forward task, on most vehicles But... if you have never done it before Ask a friend/rellie who you know is mechanical minded, to be available on the day They can also help you to bleed the system
I always use what is called a flair nut spanner, to loosen the flair nut, on the line at the slave cylinder It is very easy to distort, or round the flats of the flair nut, if you use an open ended spanner
Hope that this info is useful to you
Oldigga said
05:41 PM Oct 3, 2017
Joe , just buy a complete master cylinder , bolt it on and bleed the system , two person job, one pumping the pedal one under vehicle opening the bleed nipple until all bubbles are gone.
Santa said
08:00 PM Oct 3, 2017
Oldigga wrote:
Joe , just buy a complete master cylinder , bolt it on and bleed the system , two person job, one pumping the pedal one under vehicle opening the bleed nipple until all bubbles are gone.
Master cyl and slave cyl two completely different things.
macka17 said
10:48 PM Oct 3, 2017
Hi.
the idea on advising to do it him\yourself.
Is That if you haven't before and starting ? travelling.
You ARE going to get a point where things NEED doing away from civilisation.
Above is one of the things that are basic and go fairly regularly
IF you know how to. and carry a small bottle and tube. You CAN do yourself.
I always recommend people to take all the spare\service parts with them. "Justin..."
Even if YOU can't do it.
IF you carrying the parts. With Copy of manual.
Somebody mostly WILL do it for you.
Regarding manual.
I get mine off net. FULL manual fits on a 2 gig chip. Tablet\laptop, Ph.
you can read it out for instructions.
I'm amazed that people willing to drag missus all over this LARGE. Desolate in places land.
Know absolutely ZILCH... About the thing carrying them.
ALL. Like towing guidance.
Should take at least a basic course on THEIR veh maint and basic repairs.
At minimum. Just to show a little respect for wife's safety at least.
You know haw many die out there. even today?.
FULL factory Warranty. Back to base cover.
Won't do you any good. if you 500k out in sticks with no ph coverage.
We should ALL have at least BASIC knowledge..
(Just like safety chuckle)
I use a 10in Tablet. Easier for my old eyes to read and see Diagrams.
If you show willing and thinking ahead. Preparation.
people are much more likely to help you than.
"OH. It's broke. What do I do?? help."
Think about it people. Realistically.
mustangdude said
07:10 AM Oct 4, 2017
I owned a truck with a hydraulic clutch for 27 yrs.
Over those years I rebuilt both the slave & master cylinders a few times.
I found with clutch hydraulics, if I changed the fluid yearly I didn't have to rebuild the master or slave cylinders as often.
Consider every application moves fluid from top to bottom, where as brakes have very little fluid movement.
This is why clutch fluid gets dirty fast. (pistons moving any distance pick up dust or moisture easily)
Here's an easy flushing method I used:
Use a syringe to pull all the fluid out of the clutch master cylinder.
Fill the master cylinder.
Open the bleed nipple on the slave cylinder as the clutch pedal is pushed to the floor. (use the wife or "partner"..)
Close the bleed nipple whilst the clutch pedal is held on the floor. (important)
Release the clutch pedal.
Repeat this until clean fluid comes out the bleed nipple.
Check the master cylinder level regularly during bleeding, it will drop fast.
Simplest method is put a new cup in the slave cylinder after honing the bore with wet and dry paper....under $10.
Good Luck.
Whoa.
Hone it with a variable HONE ONLY.
to keep BORE parallel.
Repco sell to suit. 1\2 to 1 in 1 to 2in etc. Sorry Metric.
They are two items. one at each end of line.
Seal kits come for both. Recond for both? new for both.
D-Max Master near $200. Yours would be dearer.
Rotate hone as you draw it back and forth to diagonal cut the bore
and NOT leave possible fluid leak lines.
One way then t'other.
IF you have to hone such that piston sloppy with new seals on.
Replace it. Bore gone.
My kit has 3 sets of 3x stones. Fine. Med. Coarse.
90% of time. Med. fine ok.
Slave kit's easy to install.
master a lot more. be careful
DON'T touch Master unless it "misty" or leaky round end rubber cup.
"Leave well enuff alone". OLD school that works, and is very good idea.
Also a good time to flush whole system from master. Drain Complete.
Pour some clean fluid through.to flush out crap.
Reconnect New? slave.
Fill with fluid and bleed as per instructions. ( 2 of you.)
One on pedal. one topping up cylinder is easiest.
Can be done by one. But not recommended to novice. Bleeding.
Do NOT let fluid get too low. Or you have to start over.
Pisses you off.
Have fun
-- Edited by macka17 on Tuesday 3rd of October 2017 03:04:01 AM
I'm a Wksp Manual in general. NOT on individual veh's
Comes with taking your trade training in 50's.
ALL old school. Covers general not specific brands.
Plus all Fuel and electrics\onics, waaaaaay superseded.
Not necessary but advisable because the one that's not replaced will leak not long after
cheers
blaze
www.ebay.com.au/itm/Clutch-Slave-Cylinder-Toyota-Hilux-LN167R-1997-2005-5L-3-0L-5L-E-Diesel-4x4-Ute-/263197484869
Hi Joe,
+1 for just buy a new one and replace. Cheap to buy now. Just get the correct one for your model as there are several types probably and not necessarily all the same as the Hiluxs as people on here assume. Contact the seller first before ordering and give your details off the identification plate.
I would not replace the master cylinder unless it is leaking. A very ackward job to do on a Hiace !
Jaahn
As above the Master. Remove from Booster etc.
BUT.
If you haven't done these things b4.
Honing, Rekitting one. Once.
Gives you an insight on which does what and why.
For future possible needs out in stick. Wherever.
Seal kits for wheel cyl's and clutch. are always in my bush pack.
You never know.
Even if you never do it again.
MORE insight into the workings of what carries you around.
And STOPS you when required. Is gud.
ALL Knowledge, is good knowledge. More the merrier.
Ps. Another little item.
The V.I.N. No under bonnet AND on papers if easier.
Taken to dealer.
Will identify EVERY individual part on your group of that model.
Guaranteed. Anywhere in the world.
-- Edited by macka17 on Tuesday 3rd of October 2017 11:25:11 AM
-- Edited by macka17 on Tuesday 3rd of October 2017 10:31:27 PM
May I be one of the first, to welcome you to the forum, Joe Winter
I am not a mechanic
As hako has said, there are plenty of tutorials on the net
In a normal situation, I would not replace a master cylinder, just because the slave cylinder needs replacing
I would buy the clutch slave cylinder as mustangdude has said, and not worry about, honing the bore of the leaking slave cylinder, to replace the cup seal
Changing the clutch slave cylinder is normally a straight forward task, on most vehicles
But... if you have never done it before
Ask a friend/rellie who you know is mechanical minded, to be available on the day
They can also help you to bleed the system
I always use what is called a flair nut spanner, to loosen the flair nut, on the line at the slave cylinder
It is very easy to distort, or round the flats of the flair nut, if you use an open ended spanner
Hope that this info is useful to you
Master cyl and slave cyl two completely different things.
the idea on advising to do it him\yourself.
Is That if you haven't before and starting ? travelling.
You ARE going to get a point where things NEED doing away from civilisation.
Above is one of the things that are basic and go fairly regularly
IF you know how to. and carry a small bottle and tube. You CAN do yourself.
I always recommend people to take all the spare\service parts with them. "Justin..."
Even if YOU can't do it.
IF you carrying the parts. With Copy of manual.
Somebody mostly WILL do it for you.
Regarding manual.
I get mine off net. FULL manual fits on a 2 gig chip. Tablet\laptop, Ph.
you can read it out for instructions.
I'm amazed that people willing to drag missus all over this LARGE. Desolate in places land.
Know absolutely ZILCH... About the thing carrying them.
ALL. Like towing guidance.
Should take at least a basic course on THEIR veh maint and basic repairs.
At minimum. Just to show a little respect for wife's safety at least.
You know haw many die out there. even today?.
FULL factory Warranty. Back to base cover.
Won't do you any good. if you 500k out in sticks with no ph coverage.
We should ALL have at least BASIC knowledge..
(Just like safety chuckle)
I use a 10in Tablet. Easier for my old eyes to read and see Diagrams.
If you show willing and thinking ahead. Preparation.
people are much more likely to help you than.
"OH. It's broke. What do I do?? help."
Think about it people. Realistically.
I owned a truck with a hydraulic clutch for 27 yrs.
Over those years I rebuilt both the slave & master cylinders a few times.
I found with clutch hydraulics, if I changed the fluid yearly I didn't have to rebuild the master or slave cylinders as often.
Consider every application moves fluid from top to bottom, where as brakes have very little fluid movement.
This is why clutch fluid gets dirty fast. (pistons moving any distance pick up dust or moisture easily)
Here's an easy flushing method I used:
Use a syringe to pull all the fluid out of the clutch master cylinder.
Fill the master cylinder.
Open the bleed nipple on the slave cylinder as the clutch pedal is pushed to the floor. (use the wife or "partner"..)
Close the bleed nipple whilst the clutch pedal is held on the floor. (important)
Release the clutch pedal.
Repeat this until clean fluid comes out the bleed nipple.
Check the master cylinder level regularly during bleeding, it will drop fast.