Hoping someone might be able to help us with this problem.

When we purchased the van in 2015 we were aware the previous owners had never used the 12v option.

We would like to at least find out if we can

There are fuses inside the small pantry near the door for - fridge, bench power point, lights

The 12v globes are fitted inside the ceiling domes but do not work...

The bench power point does not work.

The switch for the outside light does not work.

The fridge has it's own separate power point.

We haven't tried the fridge as every time we are hooked up and driving the fridge is already cold

The strange thing that has us confused is that when the vehicle is connected and in reverse, if the outside van light is switched on - it comes on.....!!!

This seems to indicate that the 12v IS THERE!

While we can see where the fuses are situated we can't work out where the 12v wiring enters the van.

So that is our Question if anyone can help, or suggest who we might contact to try for an answer.

We have emailed Perkins Caravans in Lismore where the van was originally purchased so waiting on  their reply.

In the meantime hoping someone might have an idea where to find this wiring or what the problem could be.

Fingers crossed - dennison

Hey.

I have a '99. 535 Mirage.
Must be their wiring.

My 240 works. My 12v works.

As long as I put the rocker sw on roof Just inside door to 240.
The 12v side of switch does nothing ?.

Ext light is on separate sw beside it. NO 240 lights in van. Apart from Oven fan\light.
12v only.

Most of my 240 equipt is wired separately to own wall plug. Then power in goes through a trip beside Aircond.?.

They are bloody weird. But workable around.

I'm linking 12v LED strips to all int light switches. and a 5mtr under roll out outside door.

If you have too much problems. Think of as a "ring main".
with the 12v. running round roof line with LED strips off it to suit light requirements.
That's basically what I'm doing, Using existing wiring.
Ignoring existing 12v lights.

This Tandem is a lovely LIGHT van to tow. Very Stable too.

535 Tandem Mirage 1865kg loaded. On wheels.
What's yours?.

PS.

Just throw the 12\240v switch onto 240v and try the 12v.

Mine does BOTH from that setting?.

Hello the trailer plug seems like it hasn't got a constant 12 volt supply in the No:2 pin to supply the lights from the vehicle,and does the van have a batter.?? You may need to take it to an auto electrian cheers Graeme

Thanks Macka17

I don't think we have a 240v/12v rocker switch - if we do  where would we be likely to find it..?

Can't see it anywhere as you describe with your van (but they are different models)

We don't have an aircond.

Our van is a 2000 Coromal Mirage Cygnet 430 pop-top

Do you have any more ideas...?

Should have said battery not batter

dennison wrote:

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Thanks Graeme - the van doesn't have a battery but we were trying it hooked up to one.
We are just stumped because the outside light comes on when reversing and with no connection to 240v.

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 On a 7 pin plug, pin 2 designated to reversing lights. As trailers don't normally have revearsing lights, pin 2 is sometimes used to supply 12 volt power to the van.

It appears your tug is wired reversing lights to pin 2, the van is wired 12 volt van lights to pin 2, hence the outside light coming on when in revearse.

If this is the case the internal 12 volt lights should also work when the tug is in revearse.

Make sure the fridge is not switched to 12 volt, as I doubt the revearse wiring or fuse, in the tug, would be large enough to handle the current draw of the fridge.

Cheers Pete

I'd buy yourself a meter and a roll of wire and trace the wires, noting a diagram on a piece of paper. There are obviously some problems with the wiring as you have described it. Relying on your vehicle to supply power is not a good idea unless you have a dual battery system.

Many will decry this suggestion but I would brush up on 12 volt systems (google is your friend) and when up to speed, make it a DIY job.

Two reasons: if anything does go wrong (doubtful if you're up to speed) you are best placed to diagnose and fix.
Secondly, again, many will decry, auto electricians are rubbish.

Nothing difficult about 12 volt electrics: if an auto electrician can stuff it up, so can you.

It is not legal to mess with 240 volt systems, not to mention dangerous - don't touch!

You did not say what tug you are using with your van. If it is a Toyota and you had the agent wire the socket then pin 2 in the socket will be wired to your reverse lights. A lot of other tow bar fitters will also wire them that way. It is the Australian standard. See this link for the Australian standard wiring diagrams.

The bit "The strange thing that has us confused is that when the vehicle is connected and in reverse, if the outside van light is switched on - it comes on..." tells me your tug has been wired to the Oz standards. To get your lights working on 12 V you need to do what the others have done, do the usual non standard wiring and connect the trailer socket pin 2 to your tugs battery (via a fuse close to the battery.) However if you do that then don't run the fridge on 12 V or you will burn the pin out in the trailer plug.

If you are using the 7 pin flat plug on the van then I suggest you change that for a 12 plug/socket. Your other 7 pin trailer plugs will mate with the 12 pin socket so you don't have to change them (they are designed to work that way.) Wire pin 9 of the socket to the battery with 6 mm2 (6 mm squared) cable and not 6 mm auto cable (which is only 4.6 mm2.) That is maximum sized cable that will fit the pin. Then rewire the fridge to pin 9 of the trailer plug if you want the fridge to work properly on 12 V. The wiring that van manufacturers supply in the van is always to light. Run that wire as shown in the diagram below, the relay is there to prevent you discharging your starting battery and buggering it if you do that too often. Run a separate wire from the battery to pin 8 of the socket and change the vans wiring to pin 2 to pin 8 of the plug.

If you do that then you will have your tug wired the same as mine, wired to the Oz standard. Your van will be a little different, my van being Spaceland Industries built has reverse lights on it.

Many thanks for all the advice.

We have a lot to think on and options to consider.

It's very rewarding to have people take the time to add their opinions and suggestions.

Yes, PeterD, it is a Toyota - and it was wired by the dealer when they fitted the towbar and connected the electric brakes.

Thanks again

hi, when your rig is in reverse and the outside light comes on, does the other 12v systems operate too? Could just be a simple wire swap jobbie.

Thanks Pauly - no that is the problem. 

You are right Sarge, all of it is out of our comfort zone.

No matter that everyone tells us "12V is simple"...!

We have been camping off road with our son on a cattle property and found the amazing solar lights (not panels) were so effective we are wondering if it is worth all the angst re 12V.

We have gas for the fridge and the stove if we need it.

It is just bugging me to find out what the problem is

Sarge9 wrote:

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 I suggest you get someone who can do it (you???) to change to reversing light wire to an ignition side wire (Ignition off no drain on battery) and see how that rocks ya boat,

---

 It won't rock his boat very well at all. He wants the lights to work whilst he is camping, not whilst he is travelling.

Hi Dennison,

Hope you have solved your electrical issues. An auto electrician could surely resolve your problems,  if they still exist.

When you have put your problems to bed, would you be kind enough to inspect the Aframe on your van and let me know if you can find any markings that indicate a "chassis load rating". I have been advised that this information should appear on my van (Aframe), which was built 2 years prior to yours. Mine is a 1998 Coromal Seka 475 poptop. I wish to increase the load carrying capacity of my van, and the engineer tells me he must know the chassis frame load rating. 

I can find nothing on my Aframe other than a 4 digit chassis number. In my case this is "8324". You will have a similar chassis number I am sure. You will also see a data plate probably attached to your Aframe, but if it is similar to mine, it will have other information, but nothing that tells you the chassis load rating.

I would appreciate your assistance.

Thank you, Barry

Hi Dennison, the best way to find your way around 12 volt is with a multimeter, or the second best way is to get a spare trailer socket, (that you can plug your trailer into) and a 12volt battery. Connect the earth wire to no 3 pin, then connect a red wire to the positive side of the battery and then test each pin with the active wire. then when you have connected them have a walk around and see what works, switch on switch off, if it works you have found the power pin, then see if that corresponds with the power wire from the car.

Hope that works for you. if nothing works the possibly a fuse is blown.

Bob