Has anybody use sikaflex or the like to secure panel framework to roof of caravan, so as not to have to drill too many holes.....just a thought..
Cheers.
Kezngaz.
warhorse said
10:34 PM Apr 29, 2017
hi kezngaz, as solar panels generate a lot of heat,i suggest using Selleys Armourflex [bunnings]...TI Terry would know the other brand,Terry where are ya?
Aus-Kiwi said
10:48 PM Apr 29, 2017
I used stainless screws and sikoflex. If alloy ? I assume pop rivets can be used with sicoflex or similar . I used 30X 70mm alloy angle cut approx 150mm long . Sikoflex under and over the section on roof . Being 50mm or so off roof allows for cooling under panels .
-- Edited by Aus-Kiwi on Saturday 29th of April 2017 10:52:03 PM
iana said
05:54 AM Apr 30, 2017
Just done it, Sikaflex have on their site, instructions on how to go about this.
Jaahn said
08:26 AM Apr 30, 2017
kezngaz wrote:
Has anybody use sikaflex or the like to secure panel framework to roof of caravan, so as not to have to drill too many holes.....just a thought..
Cheers.
Kezngaz.
Hi Kezngaz,
This has been talked about a lot here. Use the search function on the blue bar up the top, "search". Then you will know everthing !
Jaahn
kezngaz said
12:37 PM Apr 30, 2017
Thanks for the replies guys..
Plenty to go off there and also the search threw up a few good ideas, thanks once again.
Kezngaz.
iana said
07:16 PM Apr 30, 2017
If you look down about seven threads you will see how I mounted my panel, and also an example of how Jayco mount theirs. I used Sikaflex 232 as advised in their bulletin, it was expensive at $32 per tube, and quite hard to apply. I did not however use the preparation chemicals they suggested, but cleaned the fiberglass with acetone. Remember that glued surfaces depend on surface area to get the strength, and unless there is structure for self tapping screws to fasten to, they will have minimal strength, i.e. being the strength of the material they have been screwed into.
macka17 said
08:04 PM Apr 30, 2017
Hi.
IF glueing to roof.
Just remember it'd be nice to have a bit of airflow under.
They DO get very hot in sun.
and Hotter the panel. Lesser the output.
Read on it.
1 1\2 -2 in Angle. Rivet to that. I use three each side.
Length to suit length of panel.
then a mix of Sika "PRO" (The original "sticks like s--t to blanket glue.)
Rivets through roof sheets (with Sika round them). with s\s screws where drill finds frame member,
for extra grip, also with sika.
Sika cable to roof and through Junc box into roof.
I also fill box with sika too, Less leaking in.
Multi panels each side.
Linked together.
One cable across roof then Both joined INSIDE sparky Junct box.
One cable down to reg. Box parked over hole in roof.
I've mix and matched panels in line and overall.
All the rg reads in Amps through cable. (50w\80w\85w)
Also 160\200w on current van.
Di watching\listening to all those young Screechers on that prog tonight.
Louder you can screech . better you are. Apparently.
Then they start that stupid bird warbling through the notes.
Sheesh.
If only they realised what they sounded like.
ME. I got an old Harry Seacombe classic on at moment.
Them Sibelius 4th after. Not many got that one.
Beautiful music through Electrostat Headphones..
They also leave cones for dead.
I've also got some old classic Scottish Bagpipe Dirges on tape too.
They take a bit of getting your head round.
I've got to finish transferring my old tapes and records.
Some of the old classic tapes are starting to stick face to face
Bummer.
Lost a few so far. 2 x Stravinsky and Mahlers final, unfinished.
Anybody got a copy?.
kezngaz said
09:04 PM Apr 30, 2017
Macka, what are you on about?
Only you could shoe horn 'Harry Seacombe' into a reply to a post about solar panel fixing...
I do chuckle..
Enjoy!!!
Kezngaz.
Phillipn said
09:30 PM Apr 30, 2017
macka17 wrote:
Hi. IF glueing to roof. Just remember it'd be nice to have a bit of airflow under. They DO get very hot in sun. and Hotter the panel. Lesser the output. Read on it.
1 1\2 -2 in Angle. Rivet to that. I use three each side. Length to suit length of panel.
then a mix of Sika "PRO" (The original "sticks like s--t to blanket glue.) Rivets through roof sheets (with Sika round them). with s\s screws where drill finds frame member, for extra grip, also with sika. Sika cable to roof and through Junc box into roof. I also fill box with sika too, Less leaking in.
Multi panels each side. Linked together. One cable across roof then Both joined INSIDE sparky Junct box. One cable down to reg. Box parked over hole in roof.
I've mix and matched panels in line and overall. All the rg reads in Amps through cable. (50w\80w\85w) Also 160\200w on current van.
Di watching\listening to all those young Screechers on that prog tonight. Louder you can screech . better you are. Apparently. Then they start that stupid bird warbling through the notes. Sheesh. If only they realised what they sounded like.
ME. I got an old Harry Seacombe classic on at moment. Them Sibelius 4th after. Not many got that one.
Beautiful music through Electrostat Headphones.. They also leave cones for dead.
I've also got some old classic Scottish Bagpipe Dirges on tape too. They take a bit of getting your head round.
I've got to finish transferring my old tapes and records. Some of the old classic tapes are starting to stick face to face Bummer. Lost a few so far. 2 x Stravinsky and Mahlers final, unfinished.
Anybody got a copy?.
Macka, Are you lost and straying again? The topic is attaching solar panels to RV`s. Just put Harry and your bagpipes away for a while.
macka17 said
03:08 AM May 3, 2017
Nooooo WAY.
Conversations is what it's ALL about..
Any subject keeps peoples minds active.
and recalling memories is one of the best ways of doing so.
Harry's one of the better tenors ever.
Don't put him away in a box.
And anyway.
It don't take too long to stick a coupla panels on the roof.
What else we going to do till brekky.
Off for a cuppa Caramel Latte now.
Anybody want one
iana said
06:44 AM May 3, 2017
Dominating and loud conversation?
Kebbin said
06:10 PM May 3, 2017
Macka has his say,at least he doesn't snip.
macka17 said
09:26 PM May 8, 2017
If these posts were an Question. Answer, and snip. stop.
This forum would be a very boring place.
might as well call it a reference book.
With an index. and turn off switch.
What ever happened to conversations.
The original forum. which a certain little fella and his mates ruined.
Had a nice little personal chat link.
Open at certain hrs of days. (from-to)
Log in, and one on one conversations, All at once.
about anything till closing time. 1, 5, or 10. no difference.
Anybody nasty.
Ignore. They'll go away when everybody talks around them.
Good system I reckon.
HEY BOSS LADY???????????/ Helllooooooooo.
Aus-Kiwi said
11:51 AM May 11, 2017
Yep don't feed the trolls !!
T1 Terry said
06:50 PM May 12, 2017
:lol: always a laugh to be had on this forum, so much better than the old grumpy men over on that other forum.
Selleys Armourflex is the replacement for Sikaflex 11FC as it does not require special primers, just a roughened clean surface each side, does not degrade in sunlight the way Sika does (yellow powdery where exposed to the sun) and can be smoothed with a finger dipped in either metho or soapy water. Dried clean up with turps, uncured clean up with metho.
The other stuff is Simson 70-03, needs a proper primer for maximum adhesion but it is incredibly strong and withstands much higher temps than Sika 11FC or Selleys Armourflex.
Mounting the panels, either 50 x 25mm x 1.6mm thick angle or 70 x 25 x 1.6 angle. Mount the long side to the panel, I use 6mm rivet nuts in the panel and 6mm stainless bolts so the panel is easily removed if needed, but your choice of fastners, mark out where the 25mm part of the angle (under the panel looks best) rough up the surface of the angle and roof, a good thick double run bead of Armourflex, put the angle onto the glue, half a doz 2 ltr milk bottle full of water on the panel each side, smooth the outer edges with a finger dipped in soapy water or metho and clean up the errors with metho on a rag, then let it cure for a day. Take the bottles off and if you really feel the need, take the panel off and fill in any gaps where the glue didn't squeeze out on the inside edge, more to make you feel better than the need to hold the panel down, you won't get that angle back off without cutting the Armourflex and the longer it's up there the tougher the glue gets as it cures all the way through. Been doing this for quite some time, the last 3 yrs using Armourflex and never had a panel come off or even look like coming off. Had a few let go between the Lexan Thermoclear and semi flexible panels but still haven't lost one of them either, but we mount those differently now anyway to get around the difference in expansion issues.
T1 Terry
kezngaz said
07:57 PM May 14, 2017
Thanks for the advise guys.
Always greatfull..
Kezngaz.
Hylife said
10:53 PM May 15, 2017
kezngaz wrote:
.... to secure panel framework to roof of caravan, ....
You mustn't secure the panels to the roof. There must be an air gap underneath them.
You must purchase some proper monts which are fixed to your panels and it is the mounts which you can glue to the roof.
Aus-Kiwi said
11:31 PM May 15, 2017
We are using angle alloy .. $12 or so at Bunnngs ..
T1 Terry said
02:42 PM May 16, 2017
Hylife wrote:
kezngaz wrote:
.... to secure panel framework to roof of caravan, ....
You mustn't secure the panels to the roof. There must be an air gap underneath them.
You must purchase some proper monts which are fixed to your panels and it is the mounts which you can glue to the roof.
Be very careful using these style of mounts on a caravan roof. The mounts are great but it is how well the roof sheets are attached is the problem. The mount feet will stick to the roof sheet if the correct adhesive and preparation is used but more often than not the roof sheeting on a caravan is floating and only held on by the glue each side where it slides under the moulding strip. Full length of the panel aluminium angle with sides high enough to lift the panel clear of the roof to allow airflow helps stiffen the roof and spread the load across a much larger area of the roof sheet resisting the lifting effect that will pull the roof sheet out of the edge molding creating water leaks like you won't believe.
T1 Terry
rockylizard said
04:23 PM May 16, 2017
Gday...
DAMN ... my solar panels are mounted on those mounts
Been there for six years now ... they must have been attached for over 90,000Km.
I wonder when (rather than if it seems) they are likely to either lift off, or damage or create leaks in the roof.
OH ... praps my van's roof is different to all the others.
Cheers - John
T1 Terry said
06:01 PM May 16, 2017
rockylizard wrote:
Gday...
DAMN ... my solar panels are mounted on those mounts
Been there for six years now ... they must have been attached for over 90,000Km.
I wonder when (rather than if it seems) they are likely to either lift off, or damage or create leaks in the roof.
OH ... praps my van's roof is different to all the others.
Cheers - John
Sounds like either the mount blocks were screwed to the timber frame or the roof skin is not the floating skin type, you would have seen the results after the very first trip otherwise.
T1 Terry
rockylizard said
06:54 PM May 16, 2017
Gday...
The mounts are not screwed .
So I guess the roof is not floating.
I guess if the roof was floating then I would have been screwed
Cheers - John
kezngaz said
08:18 PM May 19, 2017
Ok, so ive been shopping now so just need to put it all in and on. Thought id upgrade the cable on the back of the new panels first.......
Id have been lucky to get 1.2v with the original wire i think!!
You would have gotten the voltage, just not the amps, look at voltage as the pressure in the pipe and amps (current) as the water flow. Block the hose off and the water squirts much the same out of a big hose as it does a little hose (volts), then let the water flow from the open pipe and a lot more will flow from the big hose than can flow from the small hose (current), cable conductor size has a similar effect.
T1 Terry
Jaahn said
11:29 AM May 20, 2017
kezngaz wrote:
Ok, so ive been shopping now so just need to put it all in and on. Thought id upgrade the cable on the back of the new panels first.......
Id have been lucky to get 1.2v with the original wire i think!!
Kezngaz.
Hi Keznga
I think that picture is worth a thousand words about what to do with the cheap panels. The panels are OK but the crappy wiring and sometimes poor position of the reg let them down. Put some decent larger wiring and the regulator near the battery and 'Bobs your uncle'
Cheers jaahn
kezngaz said
09:42 PM May 20, 2017
Thats 6&s wire going straight to the redarc regulator @ the battery up front.
Will post more pics as i progress.
Weathers a bit wet atm so coupla weeks i recon.
Kezngaz.
Bagmaker said
08:19 AM May 21, 2017
snip- Hi Keznga smile
I think that picture is worth a thousand words about what to do with the cheap panels. The panels are OK but the crappy wiring and sometimes poor position of the reg let them down. Put some decent larger wiring and the regulator near the battery and 'Bobs your uncle' biggrin
Cheers jaahn -sinp
what regulator??
Dougwe said
09:08 AM May 21, 2017
rockylizard wrote:
Gday...
The mounts are not screwed .
So I guess the roof is not floating.
I guess if the roof was floating then I would have been screwed
Cheers - John
You must be back in East Gippsland then mate
Jaahn said
07:04 PM May 21, 2017
Bagmaker wrote:
snip- Hi Keznga smile
I think that picture is worth a thousand words about what to do with the cheap panels. The panels are OK but the crappy wiring and sometimes poor position of the reg let them down. Put some decent larger wiring and the regulator near the battery and 'Bobs your uncle' biggrin
Cheers jaahn -sinp
what regulator??
Hi Bagmaker
All solar panels need a regulator, also called a controller. This unit takes the wires from the solar panel and 'controls' the power to be good for the battery and not over charge it. The panels put out too much voltage if the sun is strong and also when the battery is fully charged and does not need any more. That's a simple explanation. Better quality regulator/controllers can do a bit more than that to look after your batteries.
However if you buy a panel with a regulator/controller 'built in', like most folding panels sold, it will not be in the best position, as it should be placed near the battery to work properly, not stuck on the panels.
No panel should be used to charge a battery without a regulator/controller (except tiny ones)
Cheers jaahn
-- Edited by Jaahn on Sunday 21st of May 2017 07:06:38 PM
Has anybody use sikaflex or the like to secure panel framework to roof of caravan, so as not to have to drill too many holes.....just a thought..
Cheers.
Kezngaz.
I used stainless screws and sikoflex. If alloy ? I assume pop rivets can be used with sicoflex or similar . I used 30X 70mm alloy angle cut approx 150mm long . Sikoflex under and over the section on roof . Being 50mm or so off roof allows for cooling under panels .
-- Edited by Aus-Kiwi on Saturday 29th of April 2017 10:52:03 PM
Hi Kezngaz,
This has been talked about a lot here. Use the search function on the blue bar up the top, "search". Then you will know everthing !
Jaahn
Plenty to go off there and also the search threw up a few good ideas, thanks once again.
Kezngaz.
IF glueing to roof.
Just remember it'd be nice to have a bit of airflow under.
They DO get very hot in sun.
and Hotter the panel. Lesser the output.
Read on it.
1 1\2 -2 in Angle. Rivet to that. I use three each side.
Length to suit length of panel.
then a mix of Sika "PRO" (The original "sticks like s--t to blanket glue.)
Rivets through roof sheets (with Sika round them). with s\s screws where drill finds frame member,
for extra grip, also with sika.
Sika cable to roof and through Junc box into roof.
I also fill box with sika too, Less leaking in.
Multi panels each side.
Linked together.
One cable across roof then Both joined INSIDE sparky Junct box.
One cable down to reg. Box parked over hole in roof.
I've mix and matched panels in line and overall.
All the rg reads in Amps through cable. (50w\80w\85w)
Also 160\200w on current van.
Di watching\listening to all those young Screechers on that prog tonight.
Louder you can screech . better you are. Apparently.
Then they start that stupid bird warbling through the notes.
Sheesh.
If only they realised what they sounded like.
ME. I got an old Harry Seacombe classic on at moment.
Them Sibelius 4th after. Not many got that one.
Beautiful music through Electrostat Headphones..
They also leave cones for dead.
I've also got some old classic Scottish Bagpipe Dirges on tape too.
They take a bit of getting your head round.
I've got to finish transferring my old tapes and records.
Some of the old classic tapes are starting to stick face to face
Bummer.
Lost a few so far. 2 x Stravinsky and Mahlers final, unfinished.
Anybody got a copy?.
Only you could shoe horn 'Harry Seacombe' into a reply to a post about solar panel fixing...
I do chuckle..
Enjoy!!!
Kezngaz.
Macka, Are you lost and straying again? The topic is attaching solar panels to RV`s. Just put Harry and your bagpipes away for a while.
Conversations is what it's ALL about..
Any subject keeps peoples minds active.
and recalling memories is one of the best ways of doing so.
Harry's one of the better tenors ever.
Don't put him away in a box.
And anyway.
It don't take too long to stick a coupla panels on the roof.
What else we going to do till brekky.
Off for a cuppa Caramel Latte now.
Anybody want one
This forum would be a very boring place.
might as well call it a reference book.
With an index. and turn off switch.
What ever happened to conversations.
The original forum. which a certain little fella and his mates ruined.
Had a nice little personal chat link.
Open at certain hrs of days. (from-to)
Log in, and one on one conversations, All at once.
about anything till closing time. 1, 5, or 10. no difference.
Anybody nasty.
Ignore. They'll go away when everybody talks around them.
Good system I reckon.
HEY BOSS LADY???????????/ Helllooooooooo.
Selleys Armourflex is the replacement for Sikaflex 11FC as it does not require special primers, just a roughened clean surface each side, does not degrade in sunlight the way Sika does (yellow powdery where exposed to the sun) and can be smoothed with a finger dipped in either metho or soapy water. Dried clean up with turps, uncured clean up with metho.
The other stuff is Simson 70-03, needs a proper primer for maximum adhesion but it is incredibly strong and withstands much higher temps than Sika 11FC or Selleys Armourflex.
Mounting the panels, either 50 x 25mm x 1.6mm thick angle or 70 x 25 x 1.6 angle. Mount the long side to the panel, I use 6mm rivet nuts in the panel and 6mm stainless bolts so the panel is easily removed if needed, but your choice of fastners, mark out where the 25mm part of the angle (under the panel looks best) rough up the surface of the angle and roof, a good thick double run bead of Armourflex, put the angle onto the glue, half a doz 2 ltr milk bottle full of water on the panel each side, smooth the outer edges with a finger dipped in soapy water or metho and clean up the errors with metho on a rag, then let it cure for a day. Take the bottles off and if you really feel the need, take the panel off and fill in any gaps where the glue didn't squeeze out on the inside edge, more to make you feel better than the need to hold the panel down, you won't get that angle back off without cutting the Armourflex and the longer it's up there the tougher the glue gets as it cures all the way through. Been doing this for quite some time, the last 3 yrs using Armourflex and never had a panel come off or even look like coming off. Had a few let go between the Lexan Thermoclear and semi flexible panels but still haven't lost one of them either, but we mount those differently now anyway to get around the difference in expansion issues.
T1 Terry
Always greatfull..
Kezngaz.
You mustn't secure the panels to the roof. There must be an air gap underneath them.
You must purchase some proper monts which are fixed to your panels and it is the mounts which you can glue to the roof.
Be very careful using these style of mounts on a caravan roof. The mounts are great but it is how well the roof sheets are attached is the problem. The mount feet will stick to the roof sheet if the correct adhesive and preparation is used but more often than not the roof sheeting on a caravan is floating and only held on by the glue each side where it slides under the moulding strip. Full length of the panel aluminium angle with sides high enough to lift the panel clear of the roof to allow airflow helps stiffen the roof and spread the load across a much larger area of the roof sheet resisting the lifting effect that will pull the roof sheet out of the edge molding creating water leaks like you won't believe.
T1 Terry
Gday...
Been there for six years now ... they must have been attached for over 90,000Km.
I wonder when (rather than if it seems) they are likely to either lift off, or damage or create leaks in the roof.
OH ... praps my van's roof is different to all the others.
Cheers - John
Sounds like either the mount blocks were screwed to the timber frame or the roof skin is not the floating skin type, you would have seen the results after the very first trip otherwise.
T1 Terry
Gday...
The mounts are not screwed
.
So I guess the roof is not floating.
I guess if the roof was floating then I would have been screwed
Cheers - John
Thought id upgrade the cable on the back of the new panels first.......
Id have been lucky to get 1.2v with the original wire i think!!
Kezngaz.
T1 Terry
Hi Keznga
I think that picture is worth a thousand words about what to do with the cheap panels. The panels are OK but the crappy wiring and sometimes poor position of the reg let them down. Put some decent larger wiring and the regulator near the battery and 'Bobs your uncle'
Cheers jaahn
Will post more pics as i progress.
Weathers a bit wet atm so coupla weeks i recon.
Kezngaz.
I think that picture is worth a thousand words about what to do with the cheap panels. The panels are OK but the crappy wiring and sometimes poor position of the reg let them down. Put some decent larger wiring and the regulator near the battery and 'Bobs your uncle' biggrin
Cheers jaahn -sinp
what regulator??
You must be back in East Gippsland then mate
Hi Bagmaker
All solar panels need a regulator, also called a controller. This unit takes the wires from the solar panel and 'controls' the power to be good for the battery and not over charge it. The panels put out too much voltage if the sun is strong and also when the battery is fully charged and does not need any more. That's a simple explanation. Better quality regulator/controllers can do a bit more than that to look after your batteries.
However if you buy a panel with a regulator/controller 'built in', like most folding panels sold, it will not be in the best position, as it should be placed near the battery to work properly, not stuck on the panels.
No panel should be used to charge a battery without a regulator/controller (except tiny ones)
Cheers jaahn
-- Edited by Jaahn on Sunday 21st of May 2017 07:06:38 PM