Many of us have to tour around on a low budget. If you have tinkering/handyman skills and $10-12,000 available you can build a caravan to spread your wings. Here I'll explain the errors and the positive decisions made 12 months after I built our van and having completed a "lap?" last winter.
The project was- build a van the lightest possible GVM under 750kgms so no brakes were required (a budget remember in all areas), 2 single beds, shower/toilet combo, kitchenette and awning. Steel frame for strength (I have no alloy experience), solar etc.
I chose 10" wheels with 5-10 tyres. Better to have 12" if possible. But 10" are ok. Weight of a 13" wheels with tyres is 8 kg heavier than 10" with tyre. Times 3 = 24kg saving
Straight trailer axle. Drop axle was considered but it lowers the van and there are consequences..door can hit portable step, gutter clearance,less room for tanks etc. Straight was better.
Leaf springs. There was no issue with them at all.
Chassis, my biggest mistake. I built the drawbar with a bend in it where the floor begins to rise that created a weak point. The Qld roads pounded it. It was rewelded at Tambo then W&W welding at Cloncurry made a permanent job of it with fishtail plates. The intention was to put more items on the drawbar like the spare wheel as well as the tool box. Now I know a drawbar should go straight from the front spring shackle to the tow hitch. The frame 20mm angle for the corner edges and 13mm square tube for the frame was spot on. I purchased a gasless MIG for this and it worked a treat from ebay $150. The auto solar welding mask was good value.
The single beds were framed in 2x1 pine and are 6'4" long. I'm 6' and I'd prefer 6'8" long bed. Too late now. So we have inserted a sponge piece between the beds at the end so I can sleep on a slight angle.
Downlights- 4 of, no problem. They look good. A marine 6 point light switch was a good purchase.
Carpet ceiling, glue it in cool temps. We glued it during the day and some of the glue cured before we could man handle it onto the ply backing. Bubbles are there and its annoying. Has to be redone.
We purchased an acrylic shower wall from Bunnings and cut it to size. Nylon shower screen. Our plan was no hot water. We have a basket nearest the tow hitch that accommodates a camping solar hot water bag. It heats as we travel. Either that or boil a billy. Place the warm water in a bucket and onto the top of the portapotti. Camping submersible shower and half a bucket is enough for a shower. A toilet within two steps of bed is also priceless. Another good move was the large square hatch on the side of the toilet for ease of removal. No balancing act down steps.
Vent ?...get one with a fan. We found it great.
Kitchen, We have a Waeco CF18 fridge/freezer. It?s a little thirsty on battery power but the right size for us?just. Kitchen sink was a 1.5 kg acrylic single one. 700x290mm is a good compact size. Two fold down benches. Lightweight plastic drawers for utensils found in a $2 shop that clip in as to not come out when travelling 2x $30 only. We are now putting in an overhead shelf for plates and bowls, saucepans. A van 3.3 metres long you need to utilise all space.
Water- 2x88 litres tanks. We started with 44 litres, not enough. We have 2x 12Volt pumps with one way valves. One for the shower one for the sink. Single butane gas cooker for outdoors cooking only double would be better.
Solar- We started with 1 x 120W roof panel, 1 x 100 amp battery.. No battery charging from the car as we wanted to be able to swap cars around. With a CPAP and fridge, mobile chargers and the occasional TV and set top box it wasn't enough. At Mt Isa we bought a 90W portable solar panel. With the next 10 weeks putting it up and down when we got home we mounted it on the front of our van out of the way. Its detachable but likely I will leave it there. The system is now enough to cope. However, we bought a 12amp smart charger when we are in Cparks to top it all up nicely which was about once every 6 days. Free camps was enjoyable.
Storage is under both single beds with outside access, proved enough. Chairs, we are both big people so we got 150kg chairs. Glad we installed large hatches, the larger the better to get these and a table in and out.
Awning- Designing a small van with too much front slope limits the width of an awning.So a balance between aerodynamics and wall top length was sort. We added a 2.4M wide x 2.2M long Fiamma bag awning and one side wall.Side wall is a necessity IMO. Quality of the awning is ok. The legs go into the end roll, good idea but you need two to erect it. With a rear door we didn't want to walk around angled frame bars.
Exterior wall mounted 1 metre wide table was utilised a lot and worth their money. Mark with pencil your studs before you clad. Makes it easier.
Insulation is polystyrene 13mm same thickness as the tube. Worked well.
Leg supports. I bought the ones with wheels. Saves the worry with gutters, van just rolls on them. I welded extensions so finding the attachement is not a problem bending over all the time.
Door. Rear door is best as side door takes up valuable sitting space under the small awning and can rub on the awning material.Think I'll put a fold down mini awning though over the door as heavy rain is a pain without one. We lashed out and bought a Carac door with flyscreen etc. No regrets.
Insurance.- hunt around. I got a online quote with 6 photos and a description. Valued at $22,000 and insured for that. I'm happy.
Weight- Van tare came in at 450 kg leaving 299 kg for the load (300 max for single axle) which was perfect. But when registering it I put down 700kg as the GVM thinking I wouldn't load it up over that- wrong. Amazing how much stuff one takes. I will get another comp plate with 749kg stamped and return to Vicroads. As I'm the manufacturer I can get it changed with little issue.
Ball weight- A very light 52kg loaded, 32kg without the camping shower bag full. I installed a friction anti sway device. The van wont sway at all even with road trains coming the other way.
So what would I have done differently?
Maybe 12" wheels, Straight drawbar, Magnetic brakes, Roof aircon, 240V wired and inspected by the electrician at frame stage.
That would likely be say 600kg tare, 899kg GVM. It would be safer with the brakes, cooler in the heat and I?d tow it with a car rated to tow it.
The Hyundai i30 diesel towed it at 90kph with around 9 L/100km and 5.2 L/100 kms not towing (manual). Total cost less than $2000 for the 13 week journey ( just the coastal roads). I thought I covered all bases but the i30 is rated unbraked at 500kg (oops) and 1200kg braked. So we will tow it with our JBA Falcon V6 Buick powered convertible from now on.
Handy with a welder? Try building your own van. It took me 12 weeks. $12,000 and this basic form of travel is fun and economical.
What a great job you have done there Eaglemax - well done - many happy touring hours in that I'm sure!
Woody n Sue said
09:06 AM Jan 2, 2017
Good job congrats would love to build one but me thinks I would get sick of it before I finished
Woody
macka17 said
12:58 PM Jan 2, 2017
Looks real nice mate. Unfortunately, 98% of us don't have patience or skills to do anywhere near such a pro, Nicely finished job.
The other way, as I did. was look around. Didn't want a live in or long traveller.
There are a rash of smaller Evernews down in Melb. One of the better mfg's. Good 16fters go for from $7 to $12 k on road. Just a little too small inside for what I wanted.
Ending up buying a '99 Coromal 535, Tandem Full height. Semi Offroader?.
Used. Worn. clean. everything worked. windows leaked (as most do) Have fixed leaks. Laying cork flooring right through, and new Porta Potti
Asking $16k. argued. drove away at $12k. New tyres. and AIrcond just fitted. One of those 10a to 15 a Converters.
We Insured b4 leaving. Asked for market value. $19.800... Insured it for Agreed $19k. Hopefully somebody will knock it off hey.
It's good enuff to live, travel full time in. But we just sold 6.5 mtr Roadstar off roader we used for that. This for fishing and short stops. Behind a D-Max dual cab.
OH Tandem axle UNDER 2 ton MAX weight. Nice and light for decent size van.
Just another alternative for us clumsy, ten thumbers among us hey.
We're not all secretive tradies..
-- Edited by macka17 on Monday 2nd of January 2017 12:59:43 PM
Eaglemax said
04:02 PM Jan 2, 2017
Sounds like great value is around Macka
There must be a lot of good solid used vans on the market with all the new ones being made.
Never considered cork tiles. Would have been better than lino I think.
macka17 said
05:17 PM Jan 2, 2017
Much better than any lino. plus looks neat too
Not faded lino.
Clean lino then scrub with Acetone.
new 1\2 in plastic angle strip all round ext first to finish.
9 x 6 packs of 300x300 1\4 in cork from Bunnings.
should give some spare for heat pads in kitchen
for items coming out of oven etc.
And, after looking around. A spray pack of Cork tile adh from SIKA.
That is movable for 2 min's AFTER contact.
Unlike the touch. stick. Stiff s--t if you wrong other ones.
$20 a can. 4 or 5 should do it.
laid them loose over most of floor first.
Walking on is real nice. and I'll seal with clear mat after.
Fit water pump and other tank and ready to go hey.
Awonga Barra. Here we come.
Eaglemax said
06:49 PM Jan 2, 2017
Will do that. Thanks Macka
macka17 said
08:58 PM Jan 2, 2017
Love that car. Looks like a long bonnet Riley of '40's vintage. But obviously ain't.
You know those things were sooo way ahead of their times. Preselect gears. And individual Jacks to each wheel from driving position. to jack up when you had a flat.
Hmm. My first car was an Austin "Ruby". About '35\'37 model .A Seven with 4 doors Hand cranker on front.
Mine ran 2 head gaskets to cover head warp. Crank\start easy when cold. 2 swings. When warm. Go for a walk till it colder and sealed gap on headspace. Seriously.
Cost me 5 Quid, ran it for about 18mths and left in a ditch in country lane in Shropshire. we used to push it up Cumnor hill outside Oxford. cause it couldn't climb it when carrying weeks shopping.
Yea. Caravan at "Bablockhythe Caravan Park" on side of Thames going through the village.
Owner ( MR Miller Meade.) had a Rolls and owned the pub there. had some good sessions in there believe me. 20 miles out of town Local copper was ALWAYS the last to leave.
Wonder if it still there?. There was a rope punt by pub to get you over the river to road. And an old bloke lived in shed beside it to pull you back and forth. A bob a trip.
Similar thing with a '38 Ford 8 side valve too. Hand crank and look for a hedge to stop it rolling.
Them were the days.
That was from Nov, '63.
When I got married to first wifey. and first caravan.
-- Edited by macka17 on Monday 2nd of January 2017 09:01:05 PM
Eaglemax said
09:19 PM Jan 3, 2017
Mine is a JBA falcon Touter 2001. They started making the kits in 1982 till present. This is a v6 Holden engine. Design similar to Jaguar ss100/or Morgan
macka17 said
11:22 PM Jan 3, 2017
Falcon with a Yuk.... Holden engine.
How does it hold it's head up in company mate.
Be like owning a Toyota hey.
PeterD said
04:21 PM Jan 4, 2017
Eaglemax wrote:
The Hyundai i30 diesel towed it at 90kph with around 9 L/100km and 5.2 L/100 kms not towing (manual). Total cost less than $2000 for the 13 week journey ( just the coastal roads). I thought I covered all bases but the i30 is rated unbraked at 500kg (oops) and 1200kg braked. So we will tow it with our JBA Falcon V6 Buick powered convertible from now on.
Will the axle take electric brakes? If the Hyundai will tow the van OK then adding brakes will solve the 500 kg unbraked limit problem. If you need a new axle to accommodate brakes then that may also be an economical proposition for you.
Eaglemax said
10:37 PM Jan 5, 2017
You're right PeterD. As it happens however my other car, the JBA can tow it legally and I prefer it. The axle will take brakes and I will fit them later this year for safety.
Hi all.
Many of us have to tour around on a low budget. If you have tinkering/handyman skills and $10-12,000 available you can build a caravan to spread your wings. Here I'll explain the errors and the positive decisions made 12 months after I built our van and having completed a "lap?" last winter.
The project was- build a van the lightest possible GVM under 750kgms so no brakes were required (a budget remember in all areas), 2 single beds, shower/toilet combo, kitchenette and awning. Steel frame for strength (I have no alloy experience), solar etc.
I chose 10" wheels with 5-10 tyres. Better to have 12" if possible. But 10" are ok. Weight of a 13" wheels with tyres is 8 kg heavier than 10" with tyre. Times 3 = 24kg saving
Straight trailer axle. Drop axle was considered but it lowers the van and there are consequences..door can hit portable step, gutter clearance, less room for tanks etc. Straight was better.
Leaf springs. There was no issue with them at all.
Chassis, my biggest mistake. I built the drawbar with a bend in it where the floor begins to rise that created a weak point. The Qld roads pounded it. It was rewelded at Tambo then W&W welding at Cloncurry made a permanent job of it with fishtail plates. The intention was to put more items on the drawbar like the spare wheel as well as the tool box. Now I know a drawbar should go straight from the front spring shackle to the tow hitch. The frame 20mm angle for the corner edges and 13mm square tube for the frame was spot on. I purchased a gasless MIG for this and it worked a treat from ebay $150. The auto solar welding mask was good value.
The single beds were framed in 2x1 pine and are 6'4" long. I'm 6' and I'd prefer 6'8" long bed. Too late now. So we have inserted a sponge piece between the beds at the end so I can sleep on a slight angle.
Downlights- 4 of, no problem. They look good. A marine 6 point light switch was a good purchase.
Carpet ceiling, glue it in cool temps. We glued it during the day and some of the glue cured before we could man handle it onto the ply backing. Bubbles are there and its annoying. Has to be redone.
We purchased an acrylic shower wall from Bunnings and cut it to size. Nylon shower screen. Our plan was no hot water. We have a basket nearest the tow hitch that accommodates a camping solar hot water bag. It heats as we travel. Either that or boil a billy. Place the warm water in a bucket and onto the top of the portapotti. Camping submersible shower and half a bucket is enough for a shower. A toilet within two steps of bed is also priceless. Another good move was the large square hatch on the side of the toilet for ease of removal. No balancing act down steps.
Vent ?...get one with a fan. We found it great.
Kitchen, We have a Waeco CF18 fridge/freezer. It?s a little thirsty on battery power but the right size for us?just. Kitchen sink was a 1.5 kg acrylic single one. 700x290mm is a good compact size. Two fold down benches. Lightweight plastic drawers for utensils found in a $2 shop that clip in as to not come out when travelling 2x $30 only. We are now putting in an overhead shelf for plates and bowls, saucepans. A van 3.3 metres long you need to utilise all space.
Water- 2x88 litres tanks. We started with 44 litres, not enough. We have 2x 12Volt pumps with one way valves. One for the shower one for the sink. Single butane gas cooker for outdoors cooking only double would be better.
Solar- We started with 1 x 120W roof panel, 1 x 100 amp battery.. No battery charging from the car as we wanted to be able to swap cars around. With a CPAP and fridge, mobile chargers and the occasional TV and set top box it wasn't enough. At Mt Isa we bought a 90W portable solar panel. With the next 10 weeks putting it up and down when we got home we mounted it on the front of our van out of the way. Its detachable but likely I will leave it there. The system is now enough to cope. However, we bought a 12amp smart charger when we are in Cparks to top it all up nicely which was about once every 6 days. Free camps was enjoyable.
Storage is under both single beds with outside access, proved enough. Chairs, we are both big people so we got 150kg chairs. Glad we installed large hatches, the larger the better to get these and a table in and out.
Awning- Designing a small van with too much front slope limits the width of an awning. So a balance between aerodynamics and wall top length was sort. We added a 2.4M wide x 2.2M long Fiamma bag awning and one side wall. Side wall is a necessity IMO. Quality of the awning is ok. The legs go into the end roll, good idea but you need two to erect it. With a rear door we didn't want to walk around angled frame bars.
Exterior wall mounted 1 metre wide table was utilised a lot and worth their money. Mark with pencil your studs before you clad. Makes it easier.
Insulation is polystyrene 13mm same thickness as the tube. Worked well.
Leg supports. I bought the ones with wheels. Saves the worry with gutters, van just rolls on them. I welded extensions so finding the attachement is not a problem bending over all the time.
Door. Rear door is best as side door takes up valuable sitting space under the small awning and can rub on the awning material. Think I'll put a fold down mini awning though over the door as heavy rain is a pain without one. We lashed out and bought a Carac door with flyscreen etc. No regrets.
Insurance.- hunt around. I got a online quote with 6 photos and a description. Valued at $22,000 and insured for that. I'm happy.
Weight- Van tare came in at 450 kg leaving 299 kg for the load (300 max for single axle) which was perfect. But when registering it I put down 700kg as the GVM thinking I wouldn't load it up over that- wrong. Amazing how much stuff one takes. I will get another comp plate with 749kg stamped and return to Vicroads. As I'm the manufacturer I can get it changed with little issue.
Ball weight- A very light 52kg loaded, 32kg without the camping shower bag full. I installed a friction anti sway device. The van wont sway at all even with road trains coming the other way.
So what would I have done differently?
Maybe 12" wheels, Straight drawbar, Magnetic brakes, Roof aircon, 240V wired and inspected by the electrician at frame stage.
That would likely be say 600kg tare, 899kg GVM. It would be safer with the brakes, cooler in the heat and I?d tow it with a car rated to tow it.
The Hyundai i30 diesel towed it at 90kph with around 9 L/100km and 5.2 L/100 kms not towing (manual). Total cost less than $2000 for the 13 week journey ( just the coastal roads). I thought I covered all bases but the i30 is rated unbraked at 500kg (oops) and 1200kg braked. So we will tow it with our JBA Falcon V6 Buick powered convertible from now on.
Handy with a welder? Try building your own van. It took me 12 weeks. $12,000 and this basic form of travel is fun and economical.
Cheers Tony
.
A great read Eaglemax, thanks.
Aussie Paul.
Woody
Looks real nice mate.
Unfortunately, 98% of us don't have patience or skills to do anywhere near
such a pro, Nicely finished job.
The other way, as I did. was look around. Didn't want a live in or long traveller.
There are a rash of smaller Evernews down in Melb.
One of the better mfg's.
Good 16fters go for from $7 to $12 k on road.
Just a little too small inside for what I wanted.
Ending up buying a '99 Coromal 535, Tandem Full height. Semi Offroader?.
Used. Worn. clean. everything worked. windows leaked (as most do)
Have fixed leaks. Laying cork flooring right through, and new Porta Potti
Asking $16k. argued. drove away at $12k. New tyres. and AIrcond just fitted.
One of those 10a to 15 a Converters.
We Insured b4 leaving. Asked for market value.
$19.800... Insured it for Agreed $19k.
Hopefully somebody will knock it off hey.
It's good enuff to live, travel full time in.
But we just sold 6.5 mtr Roadstar off roader we used for that.
This for fishing and short stops. Behind a D-Max dual cab.
OH Tandem axle UNDER 2 ton MAX weight. Nice and light for decent size van.
Just another alternative for us clumsy, ten thumbers among us hey.
We're not all secretive tradies..
-- Edited by macka17 on Monday 2nd of January 2017 12:59:43 PM
Not faded lino.
Clean lino then scrub with Acetone.
new 1\2 in plastic angle strip all round ext first to finish.
9 x 6 packs of 300x300 1\4 in cork from Bunnings.
should give some spare for heat pads in kitchen
for items coming out of oven etc.
And, after looking around. A spray pack of Cork tile adh from SIKA.
That is movable for 2 min's AFTER contact.
Unlike the touch. stick. Stiff s--t if you wrong other ones.
$20 a can. 4 or 5 should do it.
laid them loose over most of floor first.
Walking on is real nice. and I'll seal with clear mat after.
Fit water pump and other tank and ready to go hey.
Awonga Barra. Here we come.
Love that car.
Looks like a long bonnet Riley of '40's vintage.
But obviously ain't.
You know those things were sooo way ahead of their times.
Preselect gears.
And individual Jacks to each wheel from driving position.
to jack up when you had a flat.
Hmm.
My first car was an Austin "Ruby". About '35\'37 model
.A Seven with 4 doors Hand cranker on front.
Mine ran 2 head gaskets to cover head warp.
Crank\start easy when cold. 2 swings.
When warm. Go for a walk till it colder and sealed gap on headspace.
Seriously.
Cost me 5 Quid, ran it for about 18mths
and left in a ditch in country lane in Shropshire.
we used to push it up Cumnor hill outside Oxford.
cause it couldn't climb it when carrying weeks shopping.
Yea. Caravan at "Bablockhythe Caravan Park"
on side of Thames going through the village.
Owner ( MR Miller Meade.) had a Rolls and owned the pub there.
had some good sessions in there believe me. 20 miles out of town
Local copper was ALWAYS the last to leave.
Wonder if it still there?.
There was a rope punt by pub to get you over the river to road.
And an old bloke lived in shed beside it to pull you back and forth.
A bob a trip.
Similar thing with a '38 Ford 8 side valve too.
Hand crank and look for a hedge to stop it rolling.
Them were the days.
That was from Nov, '63.
When I got married to first wifey. and first caravan.
-- Edited by macka17 on Monday 2nd of January 2017 09:01:05 PM
How does it hold it's head up in company mate.
Be like owning a Toyota hey.
Will the axle take electric brakes? If the Hyundai will tow the van OK then adding brakes will solve the 500 kg unbraked limit problem. If you need a new axle to accommodate brakes then that may also be an economical proposition for you.