Hi,
I'm replacing my brake assembly with new parts ,i want to keep my brake drums but i need to know does the part where the magnet touches the drum would this area get machined as well?
TIA!
signwilson said
09:03 PM Nov 11, 2016
depends on the condition of the surface they need to be very smooth for the magnets to rub on
erad said
09:35 PM Nov 11, 2016
Be careful if you get the side part of the brake drum machined. It is fairly thin already, and by machining it you may weaken it to the point where it fails completely. I had a brake drum fail on me at the root area where the sidewall meets the hub. I turned out to be a small dent from someone in assembly. This caused a stress concentration which eventually caused the drum to fail. I approached AL-KO (the manufacturer), asking where I could get a new drum and they replaced both drums (complete with hubs and bearings) for free - excellent service on their part. The reason they replaced both drums was that they could not guarantee that the diameter of the friction surface may be the same and I may have had uneven braking.
-- Edited by erad on Friday 11th of November 2016 09:36:18 PM
Cupie said
09:48 PM Nov 11, 2016
I did my brakes recently.
Found it easier and cost effective to replace the whole assembly from backing plate out (magnets, shoes & springs etc). Only 4 bolts & 2 wires per wheel ... + handbrake.
I rang around the brake drum machiners & had difficulty finding any who could/would do the surface that the magnets grab and in any case that was only about $20 per drum cheaper. Best to replace the drums I think.
At the same time I replaced all bearings with good quality 'Jap' made bearings.
If you are in Brisbane I can point you towards my supplier.
While I was at it, I upgraded the controller & the 7 pin plugs & sockets. All good for another 20 years perhaps. I'll be 95 then.
briche said
09:53 PM Nov 11, 2016
i found that was the better way to go by replacing the whole assembly as the cost is not all that dearer. By going this way you are always aware of their condition.
briche
-- Edited by briche on Friday 11th of November 2016 09:55:06 PM
adreamer said
09:56 PM Nov 11, 2016
Cupie wrote:
I did my brakes recently.
Found it easier and cost effective to replace the whole assembly from backing plate out (magnets, shoes & springs etc). Only 4 bolts & 2 wires per wheel ... + handbrake.
I rang around the brake drum machiners & had difficulty finding any who could/would do the surface that the magnets grab and in any case that was only about $20 per drum cheaper. Best to replace the drums I think.
At the same time I replaced all bearings with good quality 'Jap' made bearings.
If you are in Brisbane I can point you towards my supplier.
While I was at it, I upgraded the controller & the 7 pin plugs & sockets. All good for another 20 years perhaps. I'll be 95 then.
95!! That is young to-day. We are expected to live until 110 within the next 30 years. Not sure what condition I will be in though. lol
Helen
Vince said
09:58 PM Nov 11, 2016
I replaced all 4 on my van with new assemblies at $89 each - size 10". Wasn't ever going down the path of refurbish.
Cheers
Vince
PeterD said
01:04 PM Nov 12, 2016
briche wrote:
i found that was the better way to go by replacing the whole assembly as the cost is not all that dearer. By going this way you are always aware of their condition.
I have not priced things lately but replacing the whole backing plate assemblies can be cheaper than religning the shoes.
cjt55 said
03:30 PM Nov 12, 2016
I did the same as Cupie... replaced everything including bearings as the cost was not much different.
Be careful if you get the side part of the brake drum machined. It is fairly thin already, and by machining it you may weaken it to the point where it fails completely. I had a brake drum fail on me at the root area where the sidewall meets the hub. I turned out to be a small dent from someone in assembly. This caused a stress concentration which eventually caused the drum to fail. I approached AL-KO (the manufacturer), asking where I could get a new drum and they replaced both drums (complete with hubs and bearings) for free - excellent service on their part. The reason they replaced both drums was that they could not guarantee that the diameter of the friction surface may be the same and I may have had uneven braking.
-- Edited by erad on Friday 11th of November 2016 09:36:18 PM
I did my brakes recently.
Found it easier and cost effective to replace the whole assembly from backing plate out (magnets, shoes & springs etc). Only 4 bolts & 2 wires per wheel ... + handbrake.
I rang around the brake drum machiners & had difficulty finding any who could/would do the surface that the magnets grab and in any case that was only about $20 per drum cheaper. Best to replace the drums I think.
At the same time I replaced all bearings with good quality 'Jap' made bearings.
If you are in Brisbane I can point you towards my supplier.
While I was at it, I upgraded the controller & the 7 pin plugs & sockets. All good for another 20 years perhaps. I'll be 95 then.
i found that was the better way to go by replacing the whole assembly as the cost is not all that dearer. By going this way you are always aware of their condition.
briche
-- Edited by briche on Friday 11th of November 2016 09:55:06 PM
95!! That is young to-day. We are expected to live until 110 within the next 30 years. Not sure what condition I will be in though. lol
Helen
Cheers
Vince
I have not priced things lately but replacing the whole backing plate assemblies can be cheaper than religning the shoes.