Hi all and please forgive my ignorance as a first-time traveler. We have a Jayco Swan that we are taking on its first run this weekend. Only a short trip of 2hrs. I have attached photos of the battery setup and switches. Just wondering if there is anything that needs explaining. The hot water service we are intending to remove as can't really see a need for it in this van. Also the wife asked about cooling the fridge before leaving. My research tells me I'll need an Ampfibian to connect to house supply to run the fridge? Would I also need to open the van to some extent whilst fridge is on? Also running the fridge whilst on the road? Auto electrician will need to hook that up?
You will find that all questions are welcome and answered by some well versed people on this forum.
I am no expert, but we have a Jayco poptop which looks like has a similar battery set up to you.
Just plug the external 240v power from home into the inlet on the van. You may need a 10 amp to 15 amp converter lead to be able to connect to home supply.
When that's connected on your Setec the Mains light should be on.
Turn the fridge onto electric power at switch on fridge and temperature setting about half way initially. After a few hours turn it up to full.
There should be no need to open up the van, but may not hurt if you want to get in and out. I usually turn the fridge on the day or night before we are due to leave/pack fridge.
You should have a wire running to the electrical connector on your towbar which some call a 'hot wire'. Best to talk to an auto electrician if not already fitted and also ask about an isolator of some sort to turn the running of the fridge off when the tow vehicle is not running.
Also don't be too hasty about removing the hot water system. It comes in handy for washing up etc. I would travel with it first then make a decision after a couple of trips.
If you need any further info, let me know if I can assist.
-- Edited by Peter and JudyH on Tuesday 18th of October 2016 01:06:38 PM
-- Edited by Peter and JudyH on Tuesday 18th of October 2016 01:07:07 PM
yaksta said
02:07 PM Oct 18, 2016
Thanks for the advice. Planning on a few weekend trips before a two week holiday in January. Then a 3 month road trip Sep to November next year. Gathering as much info as I can till then. Cheers Wayne
Tony Bev said
03:35 PM Oct 18, 2016
Hello yaksta
Looking at your first picture, I have a Jayco Conquest which should be similar, but I have been unable to obtain a wiring diagram for my set up
Top left is the TV set up - cigar type connection for the 12 volt TV power - aerial cable connection - the little black button is to give a 12 volt amplification to the aerial, when it is pushed in the LED light should come on
Top centre three switches
Hot water switch, which you do not have to remove, just leave switched off
Unmarked switch could be anything, so I will not try to guess
Battery switch, this is a connection from the house battery/s to the SETEC. With this switched OFF no 12 volt will come from the battery, no 12 volt trickle charge will come from the SETEC, and no 12 volt from the towing vehicle will reach the house battery The idea is to have it switched OFF while the caravan is in storage, and switched ON while using the caravan, or charging the house battery/s with 240 volt while in storage
Bottom centre SETEC (using a layman word) it is a 240 to 12 volt transformer - 240 volt goes in and 12 volt comes out. It is supposed to be a battery charger, but only seems to give a trickle charge The 12 volt coming out goes to everything 12 volt in the caravan, except the 12 volt heating element of the fridge (if you have a three way 12 volt, gas, and 240 volt fridge). The 12 volt heating element of this type of fridge, must come from the towing vehicle, while the engine is running, otherwise it will quickly flatten a battery Behind the door of the SETEC are the 12 volt fuses
Bottom right, is the 240 volt trip switch
In regards to when to switch the fridge on, prior to leaving, I usually have it on at least 24 hours
My SETEC model ST II, says Quote from the manual Ensure battery has being charged for several days before a major camping trip (Leave the power supply on for at least 2 - 5 days with battery connected). Unquote
If I have got anything wrong, then hopefully a more knowledgeable person will come along and correct me
Hope that this info is useful to you
Edit to say looking at your first picture, to try and not confuse anyone
-- Edited by Tony Bev on Tuesday 18th of October 2016 03:38:36 PM
yaksta said
05:11 PM Oct 18, 2016
Cheers Tony, very informative.
Cupie said
08:25 PM Oct 18, 2016
I always have the fridge on for a few days before a trip.
Assuming that it is a 3way fridge you can run it on gas (not while traveling). If you are not going to have power at your camp spot, then you will have tested out the fridge on gas so that's a plus.
Or if you don't want to go to the expense of getting a 15a/10a 'adaptor' or don't have the time, then if you have a dig around you will find that the fridge has a normal 240v 10a power cord just like any domestic appliance, that is plugged into a normal power socket in the van. You can connect that to your house power through a normal extension lead. Perhaps you could use it to charge up your house battery too.
I'd think long & hard before pulling out the HWS. Not too much weight & an asset when selling in the future & very handy if you ever want to set up a pop up 'ensuite' under your awning. I've seen a $100,000 Kimberley Kamper with an external ensuite (plus one inside too).
Leaving a few windows open for a few days will help air the van.
If you have cooled down the fridge before leaving then it won't lose too much 'coldness' in a 2 hour run. I usually have a couple of frozen water bottles in the fridge to help the 12v from the tug while towing.
-- Edited by Cupie on Tuesday 18th of October 2016 08:31:18 PM
-- Edited by Cupie on Tuesday 18th of October 2016 08:32:08 PM
iana said
08:39 PM Oct 18, 2016
Hi yaksta, we, the wife and I had a Swan for years, lived in it for 18 months straight. If you are interested in some hints and handy ideas, I can dig up a few if you are interested.
yaksta said
08:58 PM Oct 18, 2016
iana wrote:
Hi yaksta, we, the wife and I had a Swan for years, lived in it for 18 months straight. If you are interested in some hints and handy ideas, I can dig up a few if you are interested.
And here we were worrying about surviving 3 months in the van. Iana we would love any advice/tips/hints you want to send our way. Cheers Wayne
iana said
09:18 PM Oct 18, 2016
OK here is one, install one of these inside the wardrobe door, so she can sit on the seat open the door, pull out the mirror and "put on her face" so to speak, you will earn brownie points.
iana said
09:19 PM Oct 18, 2016
Do you have an awning and flies over the pull out bunks? an annex is a very good investment, not only extra room, but as an aid in bad weather.
-- Edited by iana on Tuesday 18th of October 2016 09:21:14 PM
yaksta said
10:02 PM Oct 18, 2016
iana wrote:
Do you have an awning and flies over the pull out bunks? an annex is a very good investment, not only extra room, but as an aid in bad weather.
-- Edited by iana on Tuesday 18th of October 2016 09:21:14 PM
Yeah we have full annexe and flies. Have Hot Water service but it takes up an entire cupboard. In a Jayco Swan can only imagine using it to wash up and with only 2 of us simply boiling the jug will take care of that. Will probably uninstall and then when we sell will either reinstall or simply offer with the van. Don't have awning flooring.
Cupie said
09:24 AM Oct 19, 2016
Re Awning/Annex flooring ...
I have tried many of the options including the Aldi mesh & always come back to my original green shade cloth.
I have a length, now 17 years old that I fitted with a sewn plastic hem/edge binding and a few reinforced eyelets. When not in use it is folded up & put in an old plastic fertilizer bag.
We hold it down with a few old engine valves as pegs.
I actually use it as an additional protection over the silver tarp cover when the van is stored at home. Cooler & adds a few years life to the silver tarp. It helps with hail protection too.
ps. If you don't want to carry heavy annex walls then the mesh privacy screens are an excellent option.
erad said
11:40 AM Oct 19, 2016
We had a camper for years, eventually succumbing to a poptop van because SWMBO started having trouble setting the camper up once the roof was lifted. A few points to consider...
Fridge: Our camper had the vent for the fridge on the top surface of the bench. This meant that when the roof was down, the fabric could get hot. Check this. Also, do not leave a light on when the roof is down - the fabric can get very hot then where it touchs the light fitting. A 12V fan from a computer fitted with a switch will help to disperse the heat above the fridge. Mount it such that it blows out at the top. This will improve the fridge operation in hot weather as well.
Fly Sheets: Our first night out was memorable. We were in Hay NSW, and there was a frost as good as we have seen anywhere. My wife and daughter were sleeping on the beds at each end of the van and they both woke up drenched in condensation. The next day we bought some fly sheets and attached them to each end to cover the bed awnings. No more problems. Eventually, we had some shadecloth fitted to the sides and ends of the fly sheets. This gave some shade to the bed areas, and also some protection from rain.
Bedding: There is nothing worse than getting into bed and finding the mattress and linen wet. If the fabric is wet when you fold it in to close the roof, you stand a chance of the bedding getting wet as well. We bought plastic mattress sheets to cover the bedding before we closed the roof.
Side Awning: We bought an awning for the side of the van. Trouble was that when the awning was out, it loaded the roof supports, pulling the roof sideways. I fitted some turnbuckle anchors to the right side of the van roof and in windy conditions, we tied the roof down using these, and the awning on the left side. This stabilised the roof a lot better than having nothing at all. Even so, the roof used to get badly buffeted with strong winds.
Tyres: My pet hobby horse - wheel alignment. You have a new van. Even if it is not brand new, it is still unknown to you. Get a tape measure and measure the width from the outer edge of the tread to the same point on the other wheel. Measure front and back, as high up as possible, Check the difference. It should be zero or at the most a few millimetres less at the front than the back. This is called toe-in. My camper had 11 mm toe-out. My poptop had 9 mm toe-out, so things are getting better, By the time I buy my sixth caravan things should be OK. Seriously, both vans wore the tyres on the inside edge - the camper in 11000 km (worn to the canvas) and the poptop can in 18000 km (worn to the steel belt).
Enjoy your new van - make the most of it and enjoy this wonderful country. There is so much to see and do.
-- Edited by erad on Wednesday 19th of October 2016 11:42:40 AM
-- Edited by erad on Wednesday 19th of October 2016 11:43:29 AM
macka17 said
11:47 AM Oct 19, 2016
95% Fly screen for floors and one long wall. plus one short wall cut too.
to cover either end depending on where close neighbors or wind are.
I have the proper rubber open mesh flooring. had for decades. Still happy
just heavier Bulkier than flymesh.
Get a small genny.
Keep HWS.
and buy a shower head with external tent either free standing or on slides to van.
Missus will love you. believe me.
I ADDED a supply on demand unit to my van.
Solar. plenty of info everywhere on that.
TV. if so inclined.
Sat only. if you really want pictures.
I take a 21in TV with 2 terra Hard drive. and LOTS of movies/TV series, For missus.
Footy/fishing/M.Bike racing etc on separate HDD
WITH A SET Of WIRELESS HEADPHONES.. That worth plenty of Brownies too.
Music. Everything. Loud as you like.
Bothers nobody. buy a good set not cheapies.
Have fun.
Learning is a lot of frustrations and GREAT fun.
The second or third time.... Chuckle.
PeterD said
01:01 PM Oct 19, 2016
Tony Bev wrote:
Bottom centre SETEC (using a layman word) it is a 240 to 12 volt transformer - 240 volt goes in and 12 volt comes out. It is supposed to be a battery charger, but only seems to give a trickle charge
It is not a transformer, it is a power supply. A transformer gives an AC power output, If you install a transformer in vans with electronic equipment in them you are likely blow that equipment up. These devices are called power supplies or converters. When you are talking to people about caravan power one of the things you look for is to see how they refer to a Setec power supply. If they do not use the term transformer you then know they may know what they are talking about.
The Setec is an excellent power supply. It gives a well regulated and smoothed DC output to supply the lights and electronic equipment in the van. However despite what some may claim it is a lousy battery charger. If you are thinking of having some time out in the bush and then slipping into a powered site to charge the battery overnight then forget about it. You may need a week on power to get the battery anyway near fully charged. If you want to recharge your battery quickly then add a quality multi stage charger across the battery (it can be permanently installed and left connected to the battery.)
Regarding the battery switch, yes it disconnects the battery from the house 12 V system. You need to turn it on any time you need the battery in action.
yaksta said
05:25 PM Oct 19, 2016
Cupie wrote:
Re Awning/Annex flooring ...
I have tried many of the options including the Aldi mesh & always come back to my original green shade cloth.
ps. If you don't want to carry heavy annex walls then the mesh privacy screens are an excellent option.
Yeah with the old van when kids were little we rigged up some shade cloth off the awning for privacy. Will probably try to do similar with this one once I see how it goes together. Shade cloth for flooring will be the go too at this stage. The wife wants a screen on the kitchen side to keep the rain out on hot days in case we are away from van when it rains.
Tony Bev said
05:43 PM Oct 19, 2016
PeterD wrote:
Tony Bev wrote:
Bottom centre SETEC (using a layman word) it is a 240 to 12 volt transformer - 240 volt goes in and 12 volt comes out. It is supposed to be a battery charger, but only seems to give a trickle charge
It is not a transformer, it is a power supply. A transformer gives an AC power output, If you install a transformer in vans with electronic equipment in them you are likely blow that equipment up. These devices are called power supplies or converters. When you are talking to people about caravan power one of the things you look for is to see how they refer to a Setec power supply. If they do not use the term transformer you then know they may know what they are talking about.
The Setec is an excellent power supply. It gives a well regulated and smoothed DC output to supply the lights and electronic equipment in the van. However despite what some may claim it is a lousy battery charger. If you are thinking of having some time out in the bush and then slipping into a powered site to charge the battery overnight then forget about it. You may need a week on power to get the battery anyway near fully charged. If you want to recharge your battery quickly then add a quality multi stage charger across the battery (it can be permanently installed and left connected to the battery.)
Regarding the battery switch, yes it disconnects the battery from the house 12 V system. You need to turn it on any time you need the battery in action.
Thank you Peter, for correcting my mistake, it is appreciated that you took the time to correct what was obviously a wrong terminology name in electric speak
yaksta said
06:31 PM Oct 19, 2016
Tony Bev wrote:
Unmarked switch could be anything, so I will not try to guess
-- Edited by Tony Bev on Tuesday 18th of October 2016 03:38:36 PM
According to previous owner the other unmarked switch is turned on when connecting to power source at caravan park.
Tony Bev said
08:42 PM Oct 19, 2016
yaksta wrote:
Tony Bev wrote:
Unmarked switch could be anything, so I will not try to guess
-- Edited by Tony Bev on Tuesday 18th of October 2016 03:38:36 PM
According to previous owner the other unmarked switch is turned on when connecting to power source at caravan park.
This has certainly got me beat, but I do wonder why is it so.
It is a pity that Jayco do not have a wiring diagram for their caravan/motorhomes
I went to the main Jayco people in WA, with money in my hot little hand, and asked to purchase a copy of the wiring diagram for my model
After searching their computer files, I was informed that the reason they did not have one, was that as they make so many different models, they would have to have a wiring diagram for every model
I can only repeat what I tell others
Jayco do not have a wiring diagram, if I had known then what I know now, I may not have purchased my motorhome
Cupie said
11:15 AM Oct 20, 2016
Tony Bev wrote:
yaksta wrote:
Tony Bev wrote:
Unmarked switch could be anything, so I will not try to guess
-- Edited by Tony Bev on Tuesday 18th of October 2016 03:38:36 PM
According to previous owner the other unmarked switch is turned on when connecting to power source at caravan park.
This has certainly got me beat, but I do wonder why is it so.
It is a pity that Jayco do not have a wiring diagram for their caravan/motorhomes
I went to the main Jayco people in WA, with money in my hot little hand, and asked to purchase a copy of the wiring diagram for my model
After searching their computer files, I was informed that the reason they did not have one, was that as they make so many different models, they would have to have a wiring diagram for every model
I can only repeat what I tell others
Jayco do not have a wiring diagram, if I had known then what I know now, I may not have purchased my motorhome
A rather amazing response from Jayco.
It beggars belief that a Quality Accredited organisation would not have such fundamental documentation. I would have thought that the very fact that they have a vast range of products makes it more important that sets of wiring diagrams be drawn up.
But on the other hand you don't get a wiring diagram of your house do you?
I spent a few hours tracing out the wiring of my old Jayco van & so now I have a circuit diagram. I translated the wiring schematic to the various circuit drawing types (even though I have forgotten the correct name for each of the different types).
I think that they could construct a better reason for not being able to produce wiring diagrams. Perhaps they could produce a rather generic one that any reasonable Auto Elec could do along with a set of extracts or references from what ever wiring specs apply. I think that I could.
ps.
It was only yesterday that I refered to my diagram to help with work on my van brakes. I had forgotten that the brake wires from the 7 pin plug go to a DC terminal block where the break free is linked into the circuit.
It seems that all of the DC wiring in the van comes back to this terminal block where the appropriate cross connections are made.
Perhaps an easy way to have non qualified workers do the actual wiring with a few qualified Technicians/Auto Electricians do the cross connections.
iana said
02:48 PM Oct 20, 2016
OK I had better start writing, as other members have made mention of the very things I had in mind. When we set up the Swan, we always put the flies up. As was said you can get condensation from your breath raising up and touching the cold fabric, condensing and dripping back down. By having an air gap between i.e. the gap caused by the fly, this is prevented.
If there is bad weather on the way, the fly struts are shortened, and the flies are pulled tight (ish) about the bedroom canopy, and add to the water proofing. I always used two guy ropes on each strut and used crossed pegs or screw in pegs to secure the guy ropes. Now we have been through some powerful storms and so I tended perhaps to over do, but its better being safe than sorry (as we were a couple of times).
In regard to wind and storms, the swan and I suppose the others in its realm have the roof supported by 4 25mm RHS tubes. Even in moderate winds the top will get blown around. When you are camped and you can here the next wind gust coming and then it hits, you may end up with bent struts. that is why I asked if you had an awning and walls. By putting up the awning, the awning makes up a brace, or a truss that will stop the canopy from moving around. The walls will also help, but will also help stop the wind from getting under the awning. However as was said in a previous post, if you but guy ropes at 30' angle out from the annex, that will pull the awning and the canopy across in that direction. and will bend the struts. What I did was put the guy ropes down along the line of the awning struts (posts, tubes, what-ever) so you would have in a line tent peg x2 (crossed) then strut, tent peg x 2 (crossed)and two guy ropes one going to each strut, etc. etc. And so when you tension the guy ropes the pull on the struts is vertically down, not pulling the canopy across.
I always had tension springs on the guy ropes.
Feel free to ask questions, I will end now or loose the lot as has happened many times before.
-- Edited by iana on Thursday 20th of October 2016 02:49:56 PM
Cupie said
03:03 PM Oct 20, 2016
iana wrote:
OK I had better start writing, as other members have made mention of the very things I had in mind. When we set up the Swan, we always put the flies up. As was said you can get condensation from your breath raising up and touching the cold fabric, condensing and dripping back down. By having an air gap between i.e. the gap caused by the fly, this is prevented.
If there is bad weather on the way, the fly struts are shortened, and the flies are pulled tight (ish) about the bedroom canopy, and add to the water proofing. I always used two guy ropes on each strut and used crossed pegs or screw in pegs to secure the guy ropes. Now we have been through some powerful storms and so I tended perhaps to over do, but its better being safe than sorry (as we were a couple of times).
In regard to wind and storms, the swan and I suppose the others in its realm have the roof supported by 4 25mm RHS tubes. Even in moderate winds the top will get blown around. When you are camped and you can here the next wind gust coming and then it hits, you may end up with bent struts. that is why I asked if you had an awning and walls. By putting up the awning, the awning makes up a brace, or a truss that will stop the canopy from moving around. The walls will also help, but will also help stop the wind from getting under the awning. However as was said in a previous post, if you but guy ropes at 30' angle out from the annex, that will pull the awning and the canopy across in that direction. and will bend the struts. What I did was put the guy ropes down along the line of the awning struts (posts, tubes, what-ever) so you would have in a line tent peg x2 (crossed) then strut, tent peg x 2 (crossed)and two guy ropes one going to each strut, etc. etc. And so when you tension the guy ropes the pull on the struts is vertically down, not pulling the canopy across.
I always had tension springs on the guy ropes.
Feel free to ask questions, I will end now or loose the lot as has happened many times before.
-- Edited by iana on Thursday 20th of October 2016 02:49:56 PM
Very good advice .....
Perhaps most important is the use of 'crossed pegs' & tension springs. The angle of the guy ropes is also critical & especially the use of two guys at the corners.
A Practical example of the power of the triangle.
iana said
03:59 PM Oct 20, 2016
I have an Epson printer, and since I have owned it about a year, I have this war, and it is without a doubt quicker to write stuff out by hand. So while I am cooling off, I'll add a bit more.
Putting up and packing the swan away is a team effort. I worked the outside she the inside.
When it comes to lowering and tucking the fabric in, be aware finger nails cut the flyscreen, and once its cut that's it. It happened to us, put gloves on if she has long sharp nails. Be very careful.
Two persons to roll up the flies and the awning.
Talking about bad weather, if its raining and you want to pack up, in this case leave the flies and awnings up, poles, guy ropes and all. You can lower the roof, and push the fabric sides into place, and all the while you have a roof over your head. Last of all pack away the flies and awning between showers.
I got some flyscreen aluminium frame and made up a small rectangle that covered the inside fridge vent, after fitting the mesh, it stopped mossies coming in that way.
Lights over the beds. I attached plastic dog chain clips to the back of the lights, and could then clip the lights onto the zip toggels of the window blind. So the light was coming over your shoulder and you can read in bed. You may need to make up a extension lead with a 6.5 jack and socket to make it reach.
Making the beds, ezzy pezzy. one person inside, the other outside, lift up the bedroom walls a little, and tuck in the bed from the out side. So simple and easy.
iana said
08:48 PM Oct 20, 2016
Here I am again. Storage, the Swan has what looks like cupboards, but they are not very user friendly. We found that buying a few of those plastic bins 30 litre or there abouts, we packed clothing and food in them. Time to leave we just stashed them in the back of the wagon. At the site after putting the van up, the bins were put on the bed at the other end of the van. Easy to reach and tidy. That is assuming the bed is not to be used.
yaksta said
09:08 PM Oct 20, 2016
iana wrote:
When we set up the Swan, we always put the flies up. As was said you can get condensation from your breath raising up and touching the cold fabric, condensing and dripping back down.
By putting up the awning, the awning makes up a brace, or a truss that will stop the canopy from moving around. The walls will also help, but will also help stop the wind from getting under the awning. However as was said in a previous post, if you but guy ropes at 30' angle out from the annex, that will pull the awning and the canopy across in that direction. and will bend the struts. What I did was put the guy ropes down along the line of the awning struts (posts, tubes, what-ever) so you would have in a line tent peg x2 (crossed) then strut, tent peg x 2 (crossed)and two guy ropes one going to each strut, etc. etc. And so when you tension the guy ropes the pull on the struts is vertically down, not pulling the canopy across.
I always had tension springs on the guy ropes.
Feel free to ask questions, I will end now or loose the lot as has happened many times before.
-- Edited by iana on Thursday 20th of October 2016 02:49:56 PM
Thanks Ian, Yes we learnt the value of bed flies with our first van. You might need to post a photo of that rope setup for the awning so I can get my head around it. All our guy ropes have the tension springs. And yes I will ask questions. Thanks Ian
yaksta said
07:08 PM Oct 23, 2016
Ok first weekend away in the camper and it rained and blew all weekend. Jayco mattresses are atrocious so they'll be punted asap. Still can't see the need for hot water service so it will be punted. Need a kitchen awning. Do it all again in a few weeks.
iana said
12:23 AM Oct 24, 2016
Some pictures of an awning fitted to RH side of Swan.
Hi all and please forgive my ignorance as a first-time traveler. We have a Jayco Swan that we are taking on its first run this weekend. Only a short trip of 2hrs. I have attached photos of the battery setup and switches. Just wondering if there is anything that needs explaining. The hot water service we are intending to remove as can't really see a need for it in this van. Also the wife asked about cooling the fridge before leaving. My research tells me I'll need an Ampfibian to connect to house supply to run the fridge? Would I also need to open the van to some extent whilst fridge is on? Also running the fridge whilst on the road? Auto electrician will need to hook that up?
Thanks in advance.
Welcome Yaksta,
You will find that all questions are welcome and answered by some well versed people on this forum.
I am no expert, but we have a Jayco poptop which looks like has a similar battery set up to you.
Just plug the external 240v power from home into the inlet on the van. You may need a 10 amp to 15 amp converter lead to be able to connect to home supply.
When that's connected on your Setec the Mains light should be on.
Turn the fridge onto electric power at switch on fridge and temperature setting about half way initially. After a few hours turn it up to full.
There should be no need to open up the van, but may not hurt if you want to get in and out. I usually turn the fridge on the day or night before we are due to leave/pack fridge.
You should have a wire running to the electrical connector on your towbar which some call a 'hot wire'. Best to talk to an auto electrician if not already fitted and also ask about an isolator of some sort to turn the running of the fridge off when the tow vehicle is not running.
Also don't be too hasty about removing the hot water system. It comes in handy for washing up etc. I would travel with it first then make a decision after a couple of trips.
If you need any further info, let me know if I can assist.
-- Edited by Peter and JudyH on Tuesday 18th of October 2016 01:06:38 PM
-- Edited by Peter and JudyH on Tuesday 18th of October 2016 01:07:07 PM
Hello yaksta
Looking at your first picture, I have a Jayco Conquest which should be similar, but I have been unable to obtain a wiring diagram for my set up
Top centre three switches
With this switched OFF no 12 volt will come from the battery, no 12 volt trickle charge will come from the SETEC, and no 12 volt from the towing vehicle will reach the house battery
The idea is to have it switched OFF while the caravan is in storage, and switched ON while using the caravan, or charging the house battery/s with 240 volt while in storage
SETEC (using a layman word) it is a 240 to 12 volt transformer - 240 volt goes in and 12 volt comes out. It is supposed to be a battery charger, but only seems to give a trickle charge
The 12 volt coming out goes to everything 12 volt in the caravan, except the 12 volt heating element of the fridge (if you have a three way 12 volt, gas, and 240 volt fridge).
The 12 volt heating element of this type of fridge, must come from the towing vehicle, while the engine is running, otherwise it will quickly flatten a battery
Behind the door of the SETEC are the 12 volt fuses
In regards to when to switch the fridge on, prior to leaving, I usually have it on at least 24 hours
My SETEC model ST II, says
Quote from the manual
Ensure battery has being charged for several days before a major camping trip (Leave the power supply on for at least 2 - 5 days with battery connected).
Unquote
If I have got anything wrong, then hopefully a more knowledgeable person will come along and correct me
Hope that this info is useful to you
Edit to say looking at your first picture, to try and not confuse anyone
-- Edited by Tony Bev on Tuesday 18th of October 2016 03:38:36 PM
I always have the fridge on for a few days before a trip.
Assuming that it is a 3way fridge you can run it on gas (not while traveling). If you are not going to have power at your camp spot, then you will have tested out the fridge on gas so that's a plus.
Or if you don't want to go to the expense of getting a 15a/10a 'adaptor' or don't have the time, then if you have a dig around you will find that the fridge has a normal 240v 10a power cord just like any domestic appliance, that is plugged into a normal power socket in the van. You can connect that to your house power through a normal extension lead. Perhaps you could use it to charge up your house battery too.
I'd think long & hard before pulling out the HWS. Not too much weight & an asset when selling in the future & very handy if you ever want to set up a pop up 'ensuite' under your awning. I've seen a $100,000 Kimberley Kamper with an external ensuite (plus one inside too).
Leaving a few windows open for a few days will help air the van.
If you have cooled down the fridge before leaving then it won't lose too much 'coldness' in a 2 hour run. I usually have a couple of frozen water bottles in the fridge to help the 12v from the tug while towing.
-- Edited by Cupie on Tuesday 18th of October 2016 08:31:18 PM
-- Edited by Cupie on Tuesday 18th of October 2016 08:32:08 PM
And here we were worrying about surviving 3 months in the van. Iana we would love any advice/tips/hints you want to send our way. Cheers Wayne
Do you have an awning and flies over the pull out bunks? an annex is a very good investment, not only extra room, but as an aid in bad weather.
-- Edited by iana on Tuesday 18th of October 2016 09:21:14 PM
Yeah we have full annexe and flies. Have Hot Water service but it takes up an entire cupboard. In a Jayco Swan can only imagine using it to wash up and with only 2 of us simply boiling the jug will take care of that. Will probably uninstall and then when we sell will either reinstall or simply offer with the van. Don't have awning flooring.
Re Awning/Annex flooring ...
I have tried many of the options including the Aldi mesh & always come back to my original green shade cloth.
I have a length, now 17 years old that I fitted with a sewn plastic hem/edge binding and a few reinforced eyelets. When not in use it is folded up & put in an old plastic fertilizer bag.
We hold it down with a few old engine valves as pegs.
I actually use it as an additional protection over the silver tarp cover when the van is stored at home. Cooler & adds a few years life to the silver tarp. It helps with hail protection too.
ps. If you don't want to carry heavy annex walls then the mesh privacy screens are an excellent option.
We had a camper for years, eventually succumbing to a poptop van because SWMBO started having trouble setting the camper up once the roof was lifted. A few points to consider...
Fridge: Our camper had the vent for the fridge on the top surface of the bench. This meant that when the roof was down, the fabric could get hot. Check this. Also, do not leave a light on when the roof is down - the fabric can get very hot then where it touchs the light fitting. A 12V fan from a computer fitted with a switch will help to disperse the heat above the fridge. Mount it such that it blows out at the top. This will improve the fridge operation in hot weather as well.
Fly Sheets: Our first night out was memorable. We were in Hay NSW, and there was a frost as good as we have seen anywhere. My wife and daughter were sleeping on the beds at each end of the van and they both woke up drenched in condensation. The next day we bought some fly sheets and attached them to each end to cover the bed awnings. No more problems. Eventually, we had some shadecloth fitted to the sides and ends of the fly sheets. This gave some shade to the bed areas, and also some protection from rain.
Bedding: There is nothing worse than getting into bed and finding the mattress and linen wet. If the fabric is wet when you fold it in to close the roof, you stand a chance of the bedding getting wet as well. We bought plastic mattress sheets to cover the bedding before we closed the roof.
Side Awning: We bought an awning for the side of the van. Trouble was that when the awning was out, it loaded the roof supports, pulling the roof sideways. I fitted some turnbuckle anchors to the right side of the van roof and in windy conditions, we tied the roof down using these, and the awning on the left side. This stabilised the roof a lot better than having nothing at all. Even so, the roof used to get badly buffeted with strong winds.
Tyres: My pet hobby horse - wheel alignment. You have a new van. Even if it is not brand new, it is still unknown to you. Get a tape measure and measure the width from the outer edge of the tread to the same point on the other wheel. Measure front and back, as high up as possible, Check the difference. It should be zero or at the most a few millimetres less at the front than the back. This is called toe-in. My camper had 11 mm toe-out. My poptop had 9 mm toe-out, so things are getting better, By the time I buy my sixth caravan things should be OK. Seriously, both vans wore the tyres on the inside edge - the camper in 11000 km (worn to the canvas) and the poptop can in 18000 km (worn to the steel belt).
Enjoy your new van - make the most of it and enjoy this wonderful country. There is so much to see and do.
-- Edited by erad on Wednesday 19th of October 2016 11:42:40 AM
-- Edited by erad on Wednesday 19th of October 2016 11:43:29 AM
to cover either end depending on where close neighbors or wind are.
I have the proper rubber open mesh flooring. had for decades. Still happy
just heavier Bulkier than flymesh.
Get a small genny.
Keep HWS.
and buy a shower head with external tent either free standing or on slides to van.
Missus will love you. believe me.
I ADDED a supply on demand unit to my van.
Solar. plenty of info everywhere on that.
TV. if so inclined.
Sat only. if you really want pictures.
I take a 21in TV with 2 terra Hard drive. and LOTS of movies/TV series, For missus.
Footy/fishing/M.Bike racing etc on separate HDD
WITH A SET Of WIRELESS HEADPHONES.. That worth plenty of Brownies too.
Music. Everything. Loud as you like.
Bothers nobody. buy a good set not cheapies.
Have fun.
Learning is a lot of frustrations and GREAT fun.
The second or third time.... Chuckle.
It is not a transformer, it is a power supply. A transformer gives an AC power output, If you install a transformer in vans with electronic equipment in them you are likely blow that equipment up. These devices are called power supplies or converters. When you are talking to people about caravan power one of the things you look for is to see how they refer to a Setec power supply. If they do not use the term transformer you then know they may know what they are talking about.
The Setec is an excellent power supply. It gives a well regulated and smoothed DC output to supply the lights and electronic equipment in the van. However despite what some may claim it is a lousy battery charger. If you are thinking of having some time out in the bush and then slipping into a powered site to charge the battery overnight then forget about it. You may need a week on power to get the battery anyway near fully charged. If you want to recharge your battery quickly then add a quality multi stage charger across the battery (it can be permanently installed and left connected to the battery.)
To check out how these converters operate look at these links Electrical converters in RVs - Electrical converter problems in caravans
Regarding the battery switch, yes it disconnects the battery from the house 12 V system. You need to turn it on any time you need the battery in action.
Yeah with the old van when kids were little we rigged up some shade cloth off the awning for privacy. Will probably try to do similar with this one once I see how it goes together. Shade cloth for flooring will be the go too at this stage. The wife wants a screen on the kitchen side to keep the rain out on hot days in case we are away from van when it rains.
Thank you Peter, for correcting my mistake, it is appreciated that you took the time to correct what was obviously a wrong terminology name in electric speak
According to previous owner the other unmarked switch is turned on when connecting to power source at caravan park.
This has certainly got me beat, but I do wonder why is it so.
It is a pity that Jayco do not have a wiring diagram for their caravan/motorhomes
I went to the main Jayco people in WA, with money in my hot little hand, and asked to purchase a copy of the wiring diagram for my model
After searching their computer files, I was informed that the reason they did not have one, was that as they make so many different models, they would have to have a wiring diagram for every model
I can only repeat what I tell others
Jayco do not have a wiring diagram, if I had known then what I know now, I may not have purchased my motorhome
A rather amazing response from Jayco.
It beggars belief that a Quality Accredited organisation would not have such fundamental documentation. I would have thought that the very fact that they have a vast range of products makes it more important that sets of wiring diagrams be drawn up.
But on the other hand you don't get a wiring diagram of your house do you?
I spent a few hours tracing out the wiring of my old Jayco van & so now I have a circuit diagram. I translated the wiring schematic to the various circuit drawing types (even though I have forgotten the correct name for each of the different types).
I think that they could construct a better reason for not being able to produce wiring diagrams. Perhaps they could produce a rather generic one that any reasonable Auto Elec could do along with a set of extracts or references from what ever wiring specs apply. I think that I could.
ps.
It was only yesterday that I refered to my diagram to help with work on my van brakes. I had forgotten that the brake wires from the 7 pin plug go to a DC terminal block where the break free is linked into the circuit.
It seems that all of the DC wiring in the van comes back to this terminal block where the appropriate cross connections are made.
Perhaps an easy way to have non qualified workers do the actual wiring with a few qualified Technicians/Auto Electricians do the cross connections.
OK I had better start writing, as other members have made mention of the very things I had in mind. When we set up the Swan, we always put the flies up. As was said you can get condensation from your breath raising up and touching the cold fabric, condensing and dripping back down. By having an air gap between i.e. the gap caused by the fly, this is prevented.
If there is bad weather on the way, the fly struts are shortened, and the flies are pulled tight (ish) about the bedroom canopy, and add to the water proofing. I always used two guy ropes on each strut and used crossed pegs or screw in pegs to secure the guy ropes. Now we have been through some powerful storms and so I tended perhaps to over do, but its better being safe than sorry (as we were a couple of times).
In regard to wind and storms, the swan and I suppose the others in its realm have the roof supported by 4 25mm RHS tubes. Even in moderate winds the top will get blown around. When you are camped and you can here the next wind gust coming and then it hits, you may end up with bent struts. that is why I asked if you had an awning and walls.
By putting up the awning, the awning makes up a brace, or a truss that will stop the canopy from moving around. The walls will also help, but will also help stop the wind from getting under the awning. However as was said in a previous post, if you but guy ropes at 30' angle out from the annex, that will pull the awning and the canopy across in that direction. and will bend the struts.
What I did was put the guy ropes down along the line of the awning struts (posts, tubes, what-ever) so you would have in a line tent peg x2 (crossed) then strut, tent peg x 2 (crossed)and two guy ropes one going to each strut, etc. etc. And so when you tension the guy ropes the pull on the struts is vertically down, not pulling the canopy across.
I always had tension springs on the guy ropes.
Feel free to ask questions, I will end now or loose the lot as has happened many times before.
-- Edited by iana on Thursday 20th of October 2016 02:49:56 PM
Very good advice .....
Perhaps most important is the use of 'crossed pegs' & tension springs. The angle of the guy ropes is also critical & especially the use of two guys at the corners.
A Practical example of the power of the triangle.
Putting up and packing the swan away is a team effort. I worked the outside she the inside.
When it comes to lowering and tucking the fabric in, be aware finger nails cut the flyscreen, and once its cut that's it. It happened to us, put gloves on if she has long sharp nails. Be very careful.
Two persons to roll up the flies and the awning.
Talking about bad weather, if its raining and you want to pack up, in this case leave the flies and awnings up, poles, guy ropes and all. You can lower the roof, and push the fabric sides into place, and all the while you have a roof over your head. Last of all pack away the flies and awning between showers.
I got some flyscreen aluminium frame and made up a small rectangle that covered the inside fridge vent, after fitting the mesh, it stopped mossies coming in that way.
Lights over the beds. I attached plastic dog chain clips to the back of the lights, and could then clip the lights onto the zip toggels of the window blind. So the light was coming over your shoulder and you can read in bed. You may need to make up a extension lead with a 6.5 jack and socket to make it reach.
Making the beds, ezzy pezzy. one person inside, the other outside, lift up the bedroom walls a little, and tuck in the bed from the out side. So simple and easy.
Thanks Ian, Yes we learnt the value of bed flies with our first van. You might need to post a photo of that rope setup for the awning so I can get my head around it. All our guy ropes have the tension springs. And yes I will ask questions. Thanks Ian
Some pictures of an awning fitted to RH side of Swan.