This question has probably been asked 1000 times but will ask again .When replacing anodes into hot water heater ,is it neccesary to put tape on the thread ,as as been said before the threads are slightly tapered . JOHN.
Snail said
10:38 AM Sep 22, 2016
I put tape on my thread, just to be sure.
2weis said
11:53 AM Sep 22, 2016
as snail said
ST391GQ said
12:49 PM Sep 22, 2016
If you dont put tape on the thread.....or even a smear of ant_seize greas...you will definitly need a longer bar on your socket to loosen it thenext time.
And the rest of you on here..DONT ask me how I know this!!
Cheers Keith
oldtrack123 said
12:59 PM Sep 22, 2016
ST391GQ wrote:
If you dont put tape on the thread.....or even a smear of ant_seize greas...you will definitly need a longer bar on your socket to loosen it thenext time.
And the rest of you on here..DONT ask me how I know this!!
Cheers Keith
You need to be careful with tape ,it could prevent current flow & therefor no protection
Best to us some anti seize grease.
Tony Bev said
03:56 PM Sep 22, 2016
Hello cruisaderhilton
Usual disclaimer that I am not a plumber, and that the following is only my opinion
As a Fitter, I was trained to always put thread tape on (normal pressure), water pipe thread Although in theory a taper thread will seal, normal water pressure, if it is tightened correctly
I agree with everyone who says to put thread tape on, as thread tape is a lubricant, and will assist when you have to replace the anode again
I also agree with oldtrack123 when he says that you must have continuity between the anode and tank, otherwise the anode will not work
I do not have an anode in my RV boiler, but in the home I use the thread tape sparingly, and then use a multimeter set on ohms, to check that I have continuity between the anode and tank
Hope that this info is helpful
OutbackMK said
04:15 PM Sep 22, 2016
Purchased two new suburban anodes they came with a thin wrap of thread tape, the threads cut the tape so plenty of contact, each 6mths they look like something has eaten about 50% of them. Give the tank a good flush out with a small tube stuck in the end of your hose when you have the anode out you will be surprised at how much muck comes out.
macka17 said
05:09 PM Sep 22, 2016
With the ones that had Anodes.
I applied a bit of tape over rear half of thread. to help seal while front half of thread made contact.
Never had a problem. though a multi to check is a sensible idea.
ALWAYS flush tank b4 adding new rod.
patrol03 said
06:28 PM Sep 22, 2016
Lateral thinking Macka.
adrian foley said
07:18 PM Sep 22, 2016
Thread tape for sure.All tapered threads should have some form of sealer.
Robreen said
07:50 PM Sep 22, 2016
G'day all. Yes, I use tape for a good seal. A bit of track, re flushing hws tank. I remove the anode (carefully), let it drain, use a bottle brush and squirty hose through the anode hole. Lots of build up can come out. Then I connect the hose up to the mains connecter and let the water flush out through the anode hole. Using the bottle brush in the hole, seems to get a lot of the loose stuff out. It works for me.
Dick0 said
11:04 PM Sep 22, 2016
Yep, always use tape. Fair bit of pressure when gets hot.
Also, I write date of changeover with felt pen on inside of access door/flap. No guesswork when next change due.
rockylizard said
07:28 AM Sep 23, 2016
Gday...
I found this document very useful in the early days ... and it states to use Teflon tape on the thread -
My last coupla Roadstars. Had the Stainless water heater.
NO anodes.
Phil C said
12:41 PM Sep 24, 2016
In relation to Oldtrack's comment, I have tape at the first few threads and leave the top end 3 or 4 mm bare. I would be inclined to think the large nut may be enough to let the galvanic current flow, but a good precaution may be what I have suggested.
We had a large heat pump storge HWS at our last home, the anode had been insulated from the body and the thing leaked like crazy after a few years. Lucky for us, after I claimed warranty, the anode was as good as new showing the thing was not installed correctly and we got a new HWS. Lesson from this is as Oldtrack has said, make sure there is a current path or the HWS will spring a leak.
Cheers
oldtrack123 said
04:28 PM Sep 24, 2016
Phil C wrote:
In relation to Oldtrack's comment, I have tape at the first few threads and leave the top end 3 or 4 mm bare. I would be inclined to think the large nut may be enough to let the galvanic current flow, but a good precaution may be what I have suggested.
We had a large heat pump storge HWS at our last home, the anode had been insulated from the body and the thing leaked like crazy after a few years. Lucky for us, after I claimed warranty, the anode was as good as new showing the thing was not installed correctly and we got a new HWS. Lesson from this is as Oldtrack has said, make sure there is a current path or the HWS will spring a leak.
Cheers
Yes. it does happen, especially with tape happy overdoing it.
oldtrack123 said
04:33 PM Sep 24, 2016
Dick0 wrote:
Yep, always use tape. Fair bit of pressure when gets hot.
Also, I write date of changeover with felt pen on inside of access door/flap. No guesswork when next change due.
There will be a marginal increase in the volume of the water from cold to hot, really not much volume change , but it should not be generating steam
They do have a pressure relief valve .,
Crustie said
07:47 PM Sep 24, 2016
I fit a lot of residential hot water services
We use tape and also locktite on all screwed joints
If you dont put tape on the thread.....or even a smear of ant_seize greas...you will definitly need a longer bar on your socket to loosen it thenext time.
And the rest of you on here..DONT ask me how I know this!!
Cheers Keith
You need to be careful with tape ,it could prevent current flow & therefor no protection
Best to us some anti seize grease.
Hello cruisaderhilton
Usual disclaimer that I am not a plumber, and that the following is only my opinion
As a Fitter, I was trained to always put thread tape on (normal pressure), water pipe thread
Although in theory a taper thread will seal, normal water pressure, if it is tightened correctly
I agree with everyone who says to put thread tape on, as thread tape is a lubricant, and will assist when you have to replace the anode again
I also agree with oldtrack123 when he says that you must have continuity between the anode and tank, otherwise the anode will not work
I do not have an anode in my RV boiler, but in the home I use the thread tape sparingly, and then use a multimeter set on ohms, to check that I have continuity between the anode and tank
Hope that this info is helpful
I applied a bit of tape over rear half of thread. to help seal while front half of thread made contact.
Never had a problem. though a multi to check is a sensible idea.
ALWAYS flush tank b4 adding new rod.
Lateral thinking Macka.
Thread tape for sure.All tapered threads should have some form of sealer.
Yep, always use tape. Fair bit of pressure when gets hot.
Also, I write date of changeover with felt pen on inside of access door/flap. No guesswork when next change due.
Gday...
I found this document very useful in the early days ... and it states to use Teflon tape on the thread -
Cheers - John
NO anodes.
We had a large heat pump storge HWS at our last home, the anode had been insulated from the body and the thing leaked like crazy after a few years. Lucky for us, after I claimed warranty, the anode was as good as new showing the thing was not installed correctly and we got a new HWS. Lesson from this is as Oldtrack has said, make sure there is a current path or the HWS will spring a leak.
Cheers
Yes. it does happen, especially with tape happy overdoing it.
There will be a marginal increase in the volume of the water from cold to hot, really not much volume change , but it should not be generating steam
They do have a pressure relief valve .,
We use tape and also locktite on all screwed joints
Chris