I was thinking about upgrading to a 2nd hand 3.2 lt BT50. I've heard you can't wire an anderson plug direct to the battery, when the van is connected, the computer senses battery problems & disables the engine.
Is this correct? if so how do you get around it.
Cheers Pete
Dougwe said
03:46 PM Aug 13, 2016
In have two Anderson plugs wired direct to the battery with in-line fuses and 6B&S cable and all works fine in my Colorado Twin Cab Ute. I know it's not a BT50 but similar. One is for charging the caravans battery while driving and the other is to run the fridge on 12v while driving.
Keep safe on the roads.
patrol03 said
06:52 PM Aug 13, 2016
What you have heard is incorrect.As Doug said he has two power takeoffs from the battery and charges successfully.The ECU will detect power draw on the battery and increase voltage accordingly.Your fridge will run efficiently and there should be plenty of voltage and current to charge a battery system providing you have the correct size wiring and appropriate fuses.
Dick0 said
09:07 PM Aug 13, 2016
I would recommend a 50A fuse and 100-150A Dual VSR (Dual Battery System Voltage Sensitive Relay) for the battery charging. I would recommend a 50A fuse and 12v 100A Relay Switch for the 12v fridge power. Photos are a guide only.
Both of the above will not allow your vehicle battery to go flat when you turn off the ignition and will automatically activate when you start the engine. Safest way to go. You can buy all the bits including cabling on Ebay or Aussie online sellers. Of course connect via Anderson plugs.
If you are not into DIY then buy all the parts and get an auto electrician to fit.
Also Pete, Doug is spot on about the cable size...6 B&S for battery charge.
Fridge can get by with 8 B&S but preferably 6 B&S.
Cheers, Richard.
Stl said
08:07 AM Aug 15, 2016
Hi Pete, in a round about way what you heard is sort of right. The computer senses an extra discharge (fault) and will slow the charge down, with mine only feeding in 2 amps,,,, needed to install a 12 volt to 12 volt dc charger and isolator etc (I used a redarc). If you google redarc it will help. If your auto electrician can install a second battery for under $1,000.00 chances are he is not supplying what is required for it to charge properly. IMO
Len
iana said
06:30 AM Aug 16, 2016
I have a BT50, fitted with a DCDC charger maintaining an auxiliary battery. I take all my dirty electrics off the aux. battery. This helps ensure that the vehicle battery remains untouched, and the likelihood of a flat vehicle battery is very low, whereas I can do what I like with the auxiliary. The auxiliary supplement's power to the van, and will be charged when the motor is going, but also by solar, when I get solar panels for the canopy.
wasn_me said
07:31 AM Aug 16, 2016
Thanks for the replys. I currently have a 3 lt BT50 & am running the van fridge directly from the start battery via a voltage sensitive relay, ( I don't charge the van battery from the car) This set up has been ok for the last 5 years.
The 3.2lt BT50 I am looking at has been running a second battery in the tug via a DC-DC charger with no problems. It appears I may be better connecting the andersen plug to the second battery.
I was thinking about upgrading to a 2nd hand 3.2 lt BT50. I've heard you can't wire an anderson plug direct to the battery, when the van is connected, the computer senses battery problems & disables the engine.
Is this correct? if so how do you get around it.
Cheers Pete
Keep safe on the roads.
I would recommend a 50A fuse and 100-150A Dual VSR (Dual Battery System Voltage Sensitive Relay) for the battery charging.
I would recommend a 50A fuse and 12v 100A Relay Switch for the 12v fridge power.
Photos are a guide only.
Both of the above will not allow your vehicle battery to go flat when you turn off the ignition and will automatically activate when you start the engine. Safest way to go.
You can buy all the bits including cabling on Ebay or Aussie online sellers. Of course connect via Anderson plugs.
If you are not into DIY then buy all the parts and get an auto electrician to fit.
Hope this helps.
Richard.
Also Pete, Doug is spot on about the cable size...6 B&S for battery charge.
Fridge can get by with 8 B&S but preferably 6 B&S.
Cheers, Richard.
Hi Pete, in a round about way what you heard is sort of right. The computer senses an extra discharge (fault) and will slow the charge down, with mine only feeding in 2 amps,,,, needed to install a 12 volt to 12 volt dc charger and isolator etc (I used a redarc). If you google redarc it will help. If your auto electrician can install a second battery for under $1,000.00 chances are he is not supplying what is required for it to charge properly. IMO
Len
Thanks for the replys. I currently have a 3 lt BT50 & am running the van fridge directly from the start battery via a voltage sensitive relay, ( I don't charge the van battery from the car) This set up has been ok for the last 5 years.
The 3.2lt BT50 I am looking at has been running a second battery in the tug via a DC-DC charger with no problems. It appears I may be better connecting the andersen plug to the second battery.
Cheers Pete