I was just wondering how many of us Grey Nomads check our gas hot water anode to see if it is still serviceable.

We check after we have been on a long trip lasting many weeks.

Failure to do so and replace if necessary will save  heaps of dollars on a replacement hot water system.

It should be come part of the check list items for every vanner.

Jay&Dee

Gday...

Good advice JayDee ... I do mine every January as part of my 'service' of the van.

It is not a difficult chore ... the attached PDF will assist. 

You will need a 1-1/16" AF socket - a "close metric" will probably fit, but will be a bit loose and may 'round' the head of the anode.

Cheers - John

Here's a photo of my old and new anode. Had not checked it for a couple of years. 

You certainly got plenty of ware out of that one. LOL.

I replace ours every 12 months. They've never been eroded too badly but for around $30 why stuff around ??

Peter_n_Margaret wrote:

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Not required for Truma HWS (stainless steel tank).

Cheers,
Peter

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 Ditto Peter,

We have a gas/240 volt Truma, ever reliable and having a stainless tank no anode to worry about.

We have a swift hot water tank in our Van it has a stainless tank ,I will look into it but I can't see it having an anode..

kezngaz wrote:

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I changed ours recently after noticing a milk like fluid coming out of the A frame water tap.
After removing the anode,what was left of it anyway, i took the time to clean out the hw tank. Suprising the stuff that came out to be fair.
After reading this post i shall make it an annual chore.
Thanks for the post.

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 All the gunge I think means the anode is doing its job.. Better to spray out some gunge than a hole in the tank..

Cheers

I am unsure as to why Hot Water System gunk would be coming from a cold water tap on the drawbar. 

Delta18 wrote:

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I am unsure as to why Hot Water System gunk would be coming from a cold water tap on the drawbar. 

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 when the mains cold water supply is fitted and firstly presurises the hws, it also presurises the cold water pipes.

 when the supply is removed there is still pressue at the draw bar tap. if we release the pressure it also releaves the hws of pressure. this is when the milky fluid was coming out.

Maybe there is an issue with the plumbing?

I decided to do my anode today and got a nasty surprise

when I unscrewed the anode it turned about 12 turns which seemed unusual

when I eventually got it off I was left wit a cap in my hand and the anode with a threaded end still sitting in the system

I thought the anode was a one piece unit but obviesly not

with a bit of persistence and modifying a lock pick (don't ask) and some old thread gauges (using them as a kacksaw) I succeeded in getting the rest

of the anode out

the old anode was put in oct 2014 checked in jan 2016, flushed both times and doesn't look too bad (except for the cap)

Peter_n_Margaret wrote:

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There should be a non return valve before the HWS to stop backflow to the rest of the system.

Cheers,
Peter

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 Thanks Peter, ill get that checked as i can still feel 'warm' wster at Aframe when system pressuried and 240 powered..

Kezngaz.

JayDee wrote:

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I was just wondering how many of us Grey Nomads check our gas hot water anode to see if it is still serviceable.

We check after we have been on a long trip lasting many weeks.

Failure to do so and replace if necessary will save  heaps of dollars on a replacement hot water system.

It should be come part of the check list items for every vanner. 

Jay&Dee.

the above quote was back in2016.

******************************************************************************************

I am BACK

I have been absent from the forum for a couple of years, as we sold the Coromal.

Reason I am back after 2 years is that we just bought a 20ft Jayco van.

I am reopening this "blog"?? to to bring awareness to any new forumites regarding the sedrvicing of the anode.

Now as most of us would do when buying a van is to check the anode in the Hot water system.

And guess what.?

Our new used van, the anode was very similar to one of those sparkles that kids love to light.

Previous owner was right, he had never or should I say did not know about the anode.

Anyway glad to be back on the Forum

Safe travel to all

Jay&Dee

 

 by JayDee on Monday 4th of July 2016 09:18:49 AM

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I recently installed a new stainless steel 80L Rheem Stella hot water tank in a property that I let. It has a 12 year warranty.

A couple of points I took note of. The tank is so much lighter than the previous standard Rheem tank. The plumber said I had just replaced it in time as a lot of rust came out of it, which he installed 10 year previously.

My neighbour had an 80L Rheem standard tank fail at 4 years & flooded his Unit & Unit below. Now has stainless steel tank, flood tray & mains cut off switch.

Another neighbour had a 120L Rheem standard tank fail as well, years earlier.

Also has far better thermal insulation properties.

I have actually added additional insulation as I did on previous tank. Reducing standby heat loss from 1.67kWh/24 hours to 0.95kWh/24 hours.

I haven't been able to measure standby heat loss of the new stainless steel tank as new tenants had moved in quickly.

But I do measure hot water tank efficiency when the opportunity arises. Also has copper flood tray & main cut off switch (4 x AA batteries to be replaced every 12 months). Not actually required when not above another property by I did it anyway. 

The "U" shape out of the tank is a thermal trap to prevent heat loss, which most plumbers don't bother doing.

My recommendation is spend a few dollars more & go stainless steel tank & also flood prevention measures, even it if not actually required by legislation. Cheaper in the long run.