In my yet-to-be purchased caravan, I would like to travel on gravel roads and dirt tracks occasionally. I don't need a go-anywhere off-road caravan, and they tend to be heavy and expensive. So 'semi-offroad' seems a nice compromise.
But what actually makes a caravan semi-offroad?
From my wanderings around the Brisbane Caravan Show, it seems that these have an independent suspension and larger tyres (15"). I would imagine good seals underneath would be important to reduce the amount of bulldust that gets into the caravan.
What else should a semi-offroad caravan have?
Meredith said
09:00 AM Jun 12, 2016
It should also have good underbody protection for pipes and tanks. Our van, described as a dirt road version, didn't and on our first real gravel road trip one of the pipes was broken. We have since covered them all in neoprene tubing from Clarks Rubber which has worked well but it should have had something from the start.
Also it needs to have reasonable quality cabinetry, something that is of course hard to tell easily, as many of the gravel road horror stories I've heard involve cupboards falling off walls.
Most importantly though you need a driver who understands that corrugations mean slowing down, sometimes a lot. Do not ever try the 'if I go fast enough I skim over the corrugations' theory while towing, as with care most vans will handle dirt roads, while without care most will fall apart.
iana said
09:35 AM Jun 12, 2016
We brought a Jayco Silverline Outback, but we didn't buy it to go off the bitumen road. Could drive it along well maintained gravel roads a short distance, but I would be nervous. We brought it so we had same size tyres between tug and van, so effectively we have two spares across two vehicles. The chassis has a higher ground clearance, which is a nuisance when getting in and out of it, but is a God send when one has to work underneath the van.
It has bigger brakes, and of course the ends of the van are well clear when going through dips. The structure of the van as well as the joinery is exactly the same as the standard model, which as the sales staff advise, will not tolerate off road driving.
It also hitches straight up to the ute with no changes necessary to the hitch heights. On the down side it was more expensive, it is higher by 50mm, its heavier, an important consideration if you are near your weight limits. And parts incl. tyres will be more expensive.
Desert Dweller said
09:40 AM Jun 12, 2016
As long as you have decent ground clearance & drive to the road conditions any caravan will be fine. We spend most of the time camped in the bush by ourselves, predominantly accessed via unmade roads. Not a problem.
it seems that these have an independent suspension and larger tyres (15").
Independent suspension does absolutely nothing for a caravan, in fact most are non load sharing and that is a serious disadvantage.
A more compliant suspension with higher wheel travel will be kinder to the van and contents, but that can be achieved with any type of suspension and leaves are typically tougher, simpler and lighter (as well as cheaper). Leaves also have better inherent friction which means shockers will last longer.
Independent suspension on a caravan is mostly a fashion statement.
Larger diameter tyres with higher profiles are preferred, so 16".
Cheers,
Peter
Cupie said
11:49 AM Jun 12, 2016
As I investigate brake assemblies as a precursor to my current project of replacing the original brakes & bearings on my long suffering '99 Jayco Westport, I noticed that there are special electric brake magnets for 'off road' use.
The magnet photo to the left are listed as follows
Standard magnet. This magnet uses a clip to hold it into position and a spring to hold press the magnet square into the drum surface when braking.
Off-road magnet has a spring but no clip. A rubber band is wrapped the magnet to hold it in place during assembly. The rubber band disintegrates upon first braking.
Is a standard magnet used on corrugated roads for just two weeks, Vibrations have caused the metal tip of the magnet arm to slowing cut through the electric magnet. At this stage the copper wire on the bobbin has been rendering the magnet non functional. Now you can see a very good reason to put off-road magnets on your rig.
So if you are looking to do significant dirt roading then you aught to ensure that they are fitted.
The van should also have shockies fitted. Mine doesn't but I do 99.999% bitumen driving.
Good quality cabinetry a must too & not stapled like mine. Mind you after 17yrs & >200,000 km mine are still in 'as new' condition.
edit .. Fixed the couplemate link
-- Edited by Cupie on Monday 13th of June 2016 10:05:43 AM
Bryan said
11:54 AM Jun 12, 2016
"WHATS INVOLVED?
The project is really two parts: fitting the suspension and axles, then organising paperwork, getting a new VIN or modification plate, and legally registering it.
Weve seen a move away from the traditional leaf suspension to the highly-evolved coil and air independent systems. But for those leaf advocates, upgrading a leaf system by swapping springs or increasing the number of leaves is relatively easy and very quick.
The move from a leaf setup to independent suspension will not only increase load-carrying capacity (often from an ATM of 1600kgs to 2000kg), it will also offer better ride and handling"
The above is part of an article from Caravan World on upgrading suspension and is the reason why and in conjunction with greater suspension travel; I have independent suspension on my off road van.
Izabarack said
01:02 PM Jun 12, 2016
Many people do not understand the amount of flogging the underside of a van gets on any gravel road. 300k of good quality dirt road was sufficient to sandblast the front of the axles, coil springs, and shock absorbers on my van. I lost most of the taps on the water tanks and a couple of wires showed damage that needed attention. A trampoline type rock suppressor protects the front of the van and I now have two full width mud flaps across the underside of the van forward of the axle. Two wheel drive vehicles can handle gravel roads but most come undone following underbody damage.
Above the chassis rails, any stapled chipboard furniture and fittings don't last long over any corrugations. I have independent suspension with airbags and have done lots of thousands of k on dirt roads without apparent damage. The performance of a van off the tar depends on many variables.
Iza
Desert Dweller said
06:37 PM Jun 12, 2016
rexboggs5 wrote:
In my yet-to-be purchased caravan, I would like to travel on gravel roads and dirt tracks occasionally. I don't need a go-anywhere off-road caravan, and they tend to be heavy and expensive. So 'semi-offroad' seems a nice compromise.
Read the original post, they're not planning to tackle the Gibb River Road or the Simpson Desert. Some people enjoy the occasional departure from the bitumen & with a little common sense it's achievable with most types of caravans.
There's a trend these days to ''conquer'' these routes before visiting places in ones own ''backyard''. Probably connected with happy hour ''bragging rites'' while socializing in CP's or being a ''self appointed expert'' on forums like this one.
Sarge9 said
07:22 PM Jun 12, 2016
I am fairly cynical, the biggest difference between off road, semi off road and bogg standard is the weight of your wallet. Half a dozen replies here would suggest that there are some things that would could should make a bogg standard van slightly more robust, but a prudent driver with a fatter wallet might be all you need. We have a very ON road van similar to the desert dweller, nothing has broken, fallen off or bent on our wanderings, 50,000 odd k.
Self insure, in your bogg standard van, with your fatter wallet, then pay for your reckless driving. (pun intended)
Sarge
-- Edited by Sarge9 on Sunday 12th of June 2016 08:51:16 PM
Shogun said
11:07 PM Jun 12, 2016
I recently purchase a New Age Manta Ray for heading to some remote places, it has higher ground clearance and better protection underneath and good suspension. I'm very happy with it and look forward to visiting some of the more remote places of this great country.
Safe travels
Brett
DJM said
09:49 AM Jun 13, 2016
Can you elaborate your comment re independent suspension.
Ziggy99 said
10:44 AM Jun 13, 2016
A slightly heavier frame doesn't go astray as you'll sooner or later hit some potholes. Beyond that, if the intended routes involve corrugations or gibber, what's been said - protection and solid construction.
In my yet-to-be purchased caravan, I would like to travel on gravel roads and dirt tracks occasionally. I don't need a go-anywhere off-road caravan, and they tend to be heavy and expensive. So 'semi-offroad' seems a nice compromise.
But what actually makes a caravan semi-offroad?
From my wanderings around the Brisbane Caravan Show, it seems that these have an independent suspension and larger tyres (15"). I would imagine good seals underneath would be important to reduce the amount of bulldust that gets into the caravan.
What else should a semi-offroad caravan have?
Also it needs to have reasonable quality cabinetry, something that is of course hard to tell easily, as many of the gravel road horror stories I've heard involve cupboards falling off walls.
Most importantly though you need a driver who understands that corrugations mean slowing down, sometimes a lot. Do not ever try the 'if I go fast enough I skim over the corrugations' theory while towing, as with care most vans will handle dirt roads, while without care most will fall apart.
It has bigger brakes, and of course the ends of the van are well clear when going through dips. The structure of the van as well as the joinery is exactly the same as the standard model, which as the sales staff advise, will not tolerate off road driving.
It also hitches straight up to the ute with no changes necessary to the hitch heights. On the down side it was more expensive, it is higher by 50mm, its heavier, an important consideration if you are near your weight limits. And parts incl. tyres will be more expensive.
As long as you have decent ground clearance & drive to the road conditions any caravan will be fine. We spend most of the time camped in the bush by ourselves, predominantly accessed via unmade roads. Not a problem.
Independent suspension does absolutely nothing for a caravan, in fact most are non load sharing and that is a serious disadvantage.
A more compliant suspension with higher wheel travel will be kinder to the van and contents, but that can be achieved with any type of suspension and leaves are typically tougher, simpler and lighter (as well as cheaper). Leaves also have better inherent friction which means shockers will last longer.
Independent suspension on a caravan is mostly a fashion statement.
Larger diameter tyres with higher profiles are preferred, so 16".
Cheers,
Peter
As I investigate brake assemblies as a precursor to my current project of replacing the original brakes & bearings on my long suffering '99 Jayco Westport, I noticed that there are special electric brake magnets for 'off road' use.
................
Extract from https://www.couplemate.com.au/
CARAVAN ELECTRIC BRAKES
Why should I buy Off-Road Magnets
The magnet photo to the left are listed as follows
.......................................................................................
So if you are looking to do significant dirt roading then you aught to ensure that they are fitted.
The van should also have shockies fitted. Mine doesn't but I do 99.999% bitumen driving.
Good quality cabinetry a must too & not stapled like mine. Mind you after 17yrs & >200,000 km mine are still in 'as new' condition.
edit .. Fixed the couplemate link
-- Edited by Cupie on Monday 13th of June 2016 10:05:43 AM
"WHATS INVOLVED?
The project is really two parts: fitting the suspension and axles, then organising paperwork, getting a new VIN or modification plate, and legally registering it.
Weve seen a move away from the traditional leaf suspension to the highly-evolved coil and air independent systems. But for those leaf advocates, upgrading a leaf system by swapping springs or increasing the number of leaves is relatively easy and very quick.
The move from a leaf setup to independent suspension will not only increase load-carrying capacity (often from an ATM of 1600kgs to 2000kg), it will also offer better ride and handling"
The above is part of an article from Caravan World on upgrading suspension and is the reason why and in conjunction with greater suspension travel; I have independent suspension on my off road van.
Above the chassis rails, any stapled chipboard furniture and fittings don't last long over any corrugations. I have independent suspension with airbags and have done lots of thousands of k on dirt roads without apparent damage. The performance of a van off the tar depends on many variables.
Iza
Read the original post, they're not planning to tackle the Gibb River Road or the Simpson Desert. Some people enjoy the occasional departure from the bitumen & with a little common sense it's achievable with most types of caravans.
There's a trend these days to ''conquer'' these routes before visiting places in ones own ''backyard''. Probably connected with happy hour ''bragging rites'' while socializing in CP's or being a ''self appointed expert'' on forums like this one.
I am fairly cynical, the biggest difference between off road, semi off road and bogg standard is the weight of your wallet. Half a dozen replies here would suggest that there are some things that would could should make a bogg standard van slightly more robust, but a prudent driver with a fatter wallet might be all you need. We have a very ON road van similar to the desert dweller, nothing has broken, fallen off or bent on our wanderings, 50,000 odd k.
Self insure, in your bogg standard van, with your fatter wallet, then pay for your reckless driving. (pun intended)
Sarge
-- Edited by Sarge9 on Sunday 12th of June 2016 08:51:16 PM
Safe travels
Brett
Can you elaborate your comment re independent suspension.