Just finishing our first long trip Richmond (NSW),North Haven, Walcha, Hawkes Nest and Home.
Showered in Caravan Parks then at Hawkes Nest unpowered site for 4 days. The gas hot water would not light, just kept popping, then hooked up the generator and ran on 240v the water after 25min was just luke warm. I was expecting it to be hot.
I have 1 month left on the warranty so it is booked in for a service on the hot water service. It is a 2004 Heritage.
What should the temp be hot or luke warm
thanks norm
Possum3 said
10:15 AM May 2, 2016
Norm, What brand of water heater and capacity in litres?
Generally, not igniting on gas is blocked flue or forgetting to remove external cover - assuming there is no restriction to gas flow/pressure.
Heating on 240V should get HOT only governed by thermostat normally 55 degrees +.
Not becoming "Hot" on 240V maybe it was not on for enough time. Try power on for longer period - time it, as it always feels longer when watching and waiting i.e. watched pot never boils
Do you always shower with potable water, or do you use bore or river water?
Norweb said
03:10 PM May 2, 2016
Possum3 wrote:
Norm, What brand of water heater and capacity in litres?
Generally, not igniting on gas is blocked flue or forgetting to remove external cover - assuming there is no restriction to gas flow/pressure.
Heating on 240V should get HOT only governed by thermostat normally 55 degrees +.
Not becoming "Hot" on 240V maybe it was not on for enough time. Try power on for longer period - time it, as it always feels longer when watching and waiting i.e. watched pot never boils
Do you always shower with potable water, or do you use bore or river water?
I don't know the brand but will look at it, as I have just got home. I did not know that you removal the external cover (the dealership did not mention that) will try again. I use potable water.
thanks norm
Tony Bev said
03:47 PM May 2, 2016
Hello Norweb
We have a Jayco Conquest with a Truma 14 litre gas/electric hot water heater.
As Possum3 has already said
It is designed not to work on gas, unless the outside cowling is removed
The electric thermostat (on my model) is preset to 70 C, while the gas thermostat has two settings, of 60 or 70 C
The manual of my model says that I can use both gas and electricity, if I wish to heat the water quicker.
I have only used the electric side once, while at base camp, just to make sure it worked
Norweb said
05:30 PM May 2, 2016
I found this for the make of the gas heater Suburban Manufacturing Co Dayton and Coast to Coast RV. Model SWG DEA - 22.6LITRES
Bill B said
05:47 PM May 2, 2016
If it is a Suburban you don't need to remove the outside cover, that only applies to the Truma brand.
There will be a separate gas tap for the HWS, make sure it is turned on.
-- Edited by Bill B on Monday 2nd of May 2016 05:48:32 PM
goldfinger said
05:55 PM May 2, 2016
G'day Norm, I have 2005 Heritage with the Suburban 240V/Gas HWS, no doubt same as yours...with gas I flick the switch 'on' located near the smart charger/ 'Setec11' next to the fridge..the red warning light within that switch turns on bright red and gas lights automatically providing your gas cylinder is turned on of course...test by using stove....gas heats the water quite quickly and 'hot'...as hot as you want it for washing dishes etc and certainly for showers..
I make sure the 240V switch is switched off at the HWS outside access panel front off side of your van...otherwise both will be working at the same time....not desirable however I have done it once and the water was bubbling hot I could hear under the bed...which alerted me....no damage,....still worked fine. For 240V..make sure the red light is not showing which is the gas indicator switch...then switch the 240V switch on located in that out side access HWS panel..the switch is quite tricky to get at however I gather you found it OK if your water got warm...within say 1 hour will be quite hot and ready to use I have found....
I presume you have expelled any pressure lifting your pressure release valve...its identical to the home pressure valve on all 240V HWS...this will also tell you your Suburban HWS is full of water when it releases the pressure squirting water to the ground...
I also presume your 'sacrificial' anode/ bar located at the bottom of the outside HWS panel has been checked and changed at least 12 monthly....if you havn't I can give instructions on that as well....the condition of the sacrificial anode/ bar will tell you something about the HWS 'insides' as well...white goo spurts out everywhere if pressure not released before removal of the bar..... I've always found my unit faultless so olong as it is maintained...had heaps of showers in the donga.... Good luck....Hoo Roo
-- Edited by goldfinger on Monday 2nd of May 2016 06:03:29 PM
Thanks for the replies. The anode has been replaced about weeks ago.
Now I am at home will try the 240 for hot water and give it more time. I have booked in for a warranty service in June so that it can be looked at.
PeterD said
05:14 PM May 3, 2016
All storage hot water systems should be set above 60 degrees celsius. Lower temperatures allow nasties to grow in them. There was a spate of deaths a few years back in at least one Brisbane hospital where they had turned the thermostats down to save power.
Norweb said
07:53 AM May 4, 2016
goldfinger wrote:
G'day Norm, I have 2005 Heritage with the Suburban 240V/Gas HWS, no doubt same as yours...with gas I flick the switch 'on' located near the smart charger/ 'Setec11' next to the fridge..the red warning light within that switch turns on bright red and gas lights automatically providing your gas cylinder is turned on of course...test by using stove....gas heats the water quite quickly and 'hot'...as hot as you want it for washing dishes etc and certainly for showers..
I make sure the 240V switch is switched off at the HWS outside access panel front off side of your van...otherwise both will be working at the same time....not desirable however I have done it once and the water was bubbling hot I could hear under the bed...which alerted me....no damage,....still worked fine. For 240V..make sure the red light is not showing which is the gas indicator switch...then switch the 240V switch on located in that out side access HWS panel..the switch is quite tricky to get at however I gather you found it OK if your water got warm...within say 1 hour will be quite hot and ready to use I have found....
I presume you have expelled any pressure lifting your pressure release valve...its identical to the home pressure valve on all 240V HWS...this will also tell you your Suburban HWS is full of water when it releases the pressure squirting water to the ground...
I also presume your 'sacrificial' anode/ bar located at the bottom of the outside HWS panel has been checked and changed at least 12 monthly....if you havn't I can give instructions on that as well....the condition of the sacrificial anode/ bar will tell you something about the HWS 'insides' as well...white goo spurts out everywhere if pressure not released before removal of the bar..... I've always found my unit faultless so olong as it is maintained...had heaps of showers in the donga.... Good luck....Hoo Roo
-- Edited by goldfinger on Monday 2nd of May 2016 06:03:29 PM
I have now tried the 240v at home and have hot water. The gas looks like it needs attention so my warranty runs out on 17 may so it is booked in. It took about 1hr to get to a good hot, so my 20min would have correct for luke warm.
thanks norm
Tony Bev said
10:07 PM May 4, 2016
PeterD wrote:
All storage hot water systems should be set above 60 degrees celsius. Lower temperatures allow nasties to grow in them. There was a spate of deaths a few years back in at least one Brisbane hospital where they had turned the thermostats down to save power.
Hello PeterD I hope I am not making a detour on the thread
Thanks for that information, it was something which I was unaware of, although the manual of my system does mention, to occasionally use it at 70 C, to avoid the build up of bacteria, or words to that effect
Just finishing our first long trip Richmond (NSW),North Haven, Walcha, Hawkes Nest and Home.
Showered in Caravan Parks then at Hawkes Nest unpowered site for 4 days. The gas hot water would not light, just kept popping, then hooked up the generator and ran on 240v the water after 25min was just luke warm. I was expecting it to be hot.
I have 1 month left on the warranty so it is booked in for a service on the hot water service. It is a 2004 Heritage.
What should the temp be hot or luke warm
thanks norm
Generally, not igniting on gas is blocked flue or forgetting to remove external cover - assuming there is no restriction to gas flow/pressure.
Heating on 240V should get HOT only governed by thermostat normally 55 degrees +.
Not becoming "Hot" on 240V maybe it was not on for enough time. Try power on for longer period - time it, as it always feels longer when watching and waiting i.e. watched pot never boils
Do you always shower with potable water, or do you use bore or river water?
I don't know the brand but will look at it, as I have just got home. I did not know that you removal the external cover (the dealership did not mention that) will try again. I use potable water.
thanks norm
We have a Jayco Conquest with a Truma 14 litre gas/electric hot water heater.
As Possum3 has already said
It is designed not to work on gas, unless the outside cowling is removed
The electric thermostat (on my model) is preset to 70 C, while the gas thermostat has two settings, of 60 or 70 C
The manual of my model says that I can use both gas and electricity, if I wish to heat the water quicker.
I have only used the electric side once, while at base camp, just to make sure it worked
I found this for the make of the gas heater Suburban Manufacturing Co Dayton and Coast to Coast RV. Model SWG DEA - 22.6LITRES
-- Edited by Bill B on Monday 2nd of May 2016 05:48:32 PM
G'day Norm, I have 2005 Heritage with the Suburban 240V/Gas HWS, no doubt same as yours...with gas I flick the switch 'on' located near the smart charger/ 'Setec11' next to the fridge..the red warning light within that switch turns on bright red and gas lights automatically providing your gas cylinder is turned on of course...test by using stove....gas heats the water quite quickly and 'hot'...as hot as you want it for washing dishes etc and certainly for showers..
I make sure the 240V switch is switched off at the HWS outside access panel front off side of your van...otherwise both will be working at the same time....not desirable however I have done it once and the water was bubbling hot I could hear under the bed...which alerted me....no damage,....still worked fine.
For 240V..make sure the red light is not showing which is the gas indicator switch...then switch the 240V switch on located in that out side access HWS panel..the switch is quite tricky to get at however I gather you found it OK if your water got warm...within say 1 hour will be quite hot and ready to use I have found....
I presume you have expelled any pressure lifting your pressure release valve...its identical to the home pressure valve on all 240V HWS...this will also tell you your Suburban HWS is full of water when it releases the pressure squirting water to the ground...
I also presume your 'sacrificial' anode/ bar located at the bottom of the outside HWS panel has been checked and changed at least 12 monthly....if you havn't I can give instructions on that as well....the condition of the sacrificial anode/ bar will tell you something about the HWS 'insides' as well...white goo spurts out everywhere if pressure not released before removal of the bar.....
I've always found my unit faultless so olong as it is maintained...had heaps of showers in the donga....
Good luck....Hoo Roo
-- Edited by goldfinger on Monday 2nd of May 2016 06:03:29 PM
Possum
Thanks for the replies. The anode has been replaced about weeks ago.
Now I am at home will try the 240 for hot water and give it more time. I have booked in for a warranty service in June so that it can be looked at.
I have now tried the 240v at home and have hot water. The gas looks like it needs attention so my warranty runs out on 17 may so it is booked in. It took about 1hr to get to a good hot, so my 20min would have correct for luke warm.
thanks norm
Hello PeterD
I hope I am not making a detour on the thread
Thanks for that information, it was something which I was unaware of, although the manual of my system does mention, to occasionally use it at 70 C, to avoid the build up of bacteria, or words to that effect