I have a Nova Kool fridge, 193 litre model RFU6800 I believe (will check tomorrow when I'll have access to the rear of the unit - there's no label inside the cabinet) which has stopped working. However, every 80-90 seconds I can hear the compressor run for about 3 seconds and then stop. When I checked voltages there was 13.2v at the terminals, which dropped to 13.0 when the compressor briefly ran. Happens on either 12v or 240v. Dr Google has provided me with a couple of things to try, but would appreciate any clues before I call for help from a fridge repair man. I'm currently in Bendigo so if anyone can recommend a refrigeration place around here I'd appreciate it.
Cheers
Joe
Oops, just realised this should probably have been posted in Tech....
-- Edited by Joe50 on Sunday 17th of April 2016 10:37:29 PM
DeBe said
11:17 PM Apr 17, 2016
Asuming it has a Danfoss compressor it needs to be established as to which controller it has on the side of the compressor. Personaly I would fit an LED to the controller so any fault codes can be recovered by counting the LED flashes. The fault could be exess head pressure causing the compressor to stop, or a faulty Compressor control module. Pictures are always helpful. This is a picture of the module that has a built in 240V AC supply as well as can be used on 12V/24V DC.
Thanks DeBe, I'll try and get a pic of the terminal block tomorrow. One of the possible solutions I saw was to put a jumper between terminals C and P, apparently suggested by a Nova Kool tech, so I might try that and see what happens. I can only assume it would be a temporary measure to help pinpoint where the problem is.
Joe50 said
11:59 AM Apr 18, 2016
Fridge has a Secop BD35F compressor (which I believe is a Danfoss or Danfoss clone). I'm awaiting a call from Nova Kool's agent, who hopefully can provide some answers.
DeBe, can you advise which terminals the LED is connected to?
PROBLEM SOLVED Turns out it was a faulty fan (supplied with the fridge) which must have been sending funny signals to the control unit. Thankfully the people who did the motorhome conversion had installed a second fan so there won't be too much heat buildup. Now to make arrangements with the Nova Kool agent to have their fan replaced.
Joe
TommyG said
02:41 PM Apr 19, 2016
So, you have changed it back from a Never Cool to a Nova Kool.
Sorry couldn't help myself.
Joe50 said
10:18 PM Apr 19, 2016
TommyG wrote:
So, you have changed it back from a Never Cool to a Nova Kool. Sorry couldn't help myself.
DeBe said
08:05 AM Apr 20, 2016
This is how a LED is connected to the Controler. A faulty fan would have a code of 2 flashes of the LED.
Useful info that DeBe. Do you need a current limiting resistor in line with the LED?
DeBe said
04:04 PM Apr 20, 2016
It doesn't show a resistor in the Instruction sheet wiring diagram for the controlers. But a 450ohm resistor should be ok in series with the LED, it may not be quite as bright.
-- Edited by DeBe on Wednesday 20th of April 2016 07:07:33 PM
Aus-Kiwi said
04:18 PM Apr 20, 2016
Top info guys .. Well done ..
Joe50 said
11:25 PM Apr 20, 2016
Thanks DeBe, I made up a test LED after your first reply in anticipation of learning which terminals to use, had a spare 10mm red LED to hand; this site http://www.hobby-hour.com/electronics/ledcalc.php suggested the closest resistor would be 470ohm but the nearest I had was 510 or 560ohm (can't remember, and I've packed it away now that the problem has been solved) but it gave enough brightness to count pulses.
I have a Nova Kool fridge, 193 litre model RFU6800 I believe (will check tomorrow when I'll have access to the rear of the unit - there's no label inside the cabinet) which has stopped working. However, every 80-90 seconds I can hear the compressor run for about 3 seconds and then stop. When I checked voltages there was 13.2v at the terminals, which dropped to 13.0 when the compressor briefly ran. Happens on either 12v or 240v. Dr Google has provided me with a couple of things to try, but would appreciate any clues before I call for help from a fridge repair man. I'm currently in Bendigo so if anyone can recommend a refrigeration place around here I'd appreciate it.
Cheers
Joe
Oops, just realised this should probably have been posted in Tech....
-- Edited by Joe50 on Sunday 17th of April 2016 10:37:29 PM
Asuming it has a Danfoss compressor it needs to be established as to which controller it has on the side of the compressor. Personaly I would fit an LED to the controller so any fault codes can be recovered by counting the LED flashes. The fault could be exess head pressure causing the compressor to stop, or a faulty Compressor control module. Pictures are always helpful. This is a picture of the module that has a built in 240V AC
supply as well as can be used on 12V/24V DC.
Fridge has a Secop BD35F compressor (which I believe is a Danfoss or Danfoss clone). I'm awaiting a call from Nova Kool's agent, who hopefully can provide some answers.
DeBe, can you advise which terminals the LED is connected to?
Cheers,
Joe
PROBLEM SOLVED
Turns out it was a faulty fan (supplied with the fridge) which must have been sending funny signals to the control unit. Thankfully the people who did the motorhome conversion had installed a second fan so there won't be too much heat buildup. Now to make arrangements with the Nova Kool agent to have their fan replaced.
Joe
Sorry couldn't help myself.
This is how a LED is connected to the Controler. A faulty fan would have a code of 2 flashes of the LED.
Useful info that DeBe. Do you need a current limiting resistor in line with the LED?
It doesn't show a resistor in the Instruction sheet wiring diagram for the controlers. But a 450ohm resistor should be ok in series with the LED, it may not be quite as bright.
-- Edited by DeBe on Wednesday 20th of April 2016 07:07:33 PM
Thanks DeBe, I made up a test LED after your first reply in anticipation of learning which terminals to use, had a spare 10mm red LED to hand; this site http://www.hobby-hour.com/electronics/ledcalc.php suggested the closest resistor would be 470ohm but the nearest I had was 510 or 560ohm (can't remember, and I've packed it away now that the problem has been solved) but it gave enough brightness to count pulses.
Cheers
Joe