Hi everyone. I've been traveling for just over a year now and I'm just starting to see little bits of rust around my windows and door and I wanted to stop it before it got worse. (Guess Ive stayed at too many beaches) I've had my Grey Chihuahua serviced and she's all good :) apart from this little niggle. So I went to a few  painter/panel beater/ body wrkers. One didn't want to know (not a big insurance job) another never got back to me and one quoted me $2,000- $3,000 !!!

For heavens sake all I want is the bits rubbed down, rust proof on and paint tipped over. Any solutions anyone? Or know of anyone who can do this?

Cheers for any help

Didi

Didi, Not sure how bad or assessible the job is but as a rust treatment I use a product called "Plus Rust Converter & Primer". Clean the area of flaky & surface rust without being too particular then brush on. Where there is an over lap onto paintwork wipe off with a damp cloth.

You would then need to use a touchp paint of some sort, Auto shops sell pressure paks for most applications.

This stuff definately works have tried other brands but have found the "Plus" brand far better. Pretty hard to get but if You are interested can chase up the distributor for You. 1 litre cost about $30.00 from memory.

Mike.

Hi Didi

If the rust is around the window and is under the rubber window seal then the window would have to be removed to access the area otherwise the problem will spread under the rubber. If the door rust is around the edge it is probably rusting between the outer skin and the door where it is joined. If this is so then there is a bit of work required to remedy the spread.  If the rust is from untreated bumps , scratches or where paint has faded to bare metal then it can be fixed by lightly rubbing with a wire brush to remove any flakes and painting on a rust converter.

As explorer said any converter spreading onto non affected areas is to be cleaned off fairly quickly to prevent paint damage. Once the converter has worked , you will see the change in colour of the metal,  wipe down. Mask up the area and spray a cover of primer. Remember two or three light coats are better than one heavy coat that may run. When the final coat is dry lightly sand with a wet and dry sand paper with a little water.

When the area has dried apply the top coat. These paints are available in auto shops like supacheap and you will find the staff in these shops are always willing to assist. Do not be afraid to ask questions on the forum there is always someone more qualified than me to answer.

David

Hi Didi,

All older vehicles suffer from the dreaded rust. Particularly if you like the beach areas. I think you have a Sprinter, as I have also. My suggestion is to get on to it soon, as the seams over the roof and around the gutter etc will probably also be in need of a touch up. Even if you have to pay good money to do this it will be worth it to get it done before it gets worse. When I did a few of repairs on my roof seams the spots turned into holes as I removed the rust  Not what I was expecting.

Perhaps you might meet an older tradesman at the campgrounds that would like a few dollars for a bit of work. Might do a good job with no time constraints on the job.

good luck Jaahn

Moorey wrote:

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Sounds about right Moorey. But just dont feel confident enough to do it myself. Need to take a course in motor body repairs at this rate. Thanks anyway

 

Hi Didi

If the rust is around the window and is under the rubber window seal then the window would have to be removed to access the area otherwise the problem will spread under the rubber. If the door rust is around the edge it is probably rusting between the outer skin and the door where it is joined. If this is so then there is a bit of work required to remedy the spread.  If the rust is from untreated bumps , scratches or where paint has faded to bare metal then it can be fixed by lightly rubbing with a wire brush to remove any flakes and painting on a rust converter.

As explorer said any converter spreading onto non affected areas is to be cleaned off fairly quickly to prevent paint damage. Once the converter has worked , you will see the change in colour of the metal,  wipe down. Mask up the area and spray a cover of primer. Remember two or three light coats are better than one heavy coat that may run. When the final coat is dry lightly sand with a wet and dry sand paper with a little water.

When the area has dried apply the top coat. These paints are available in auto shops like supacheap and you will find the staff in these shops are always willing to assist. Do not be afraid to ask questions on the forum there is always someone more qualified than me to answer.

 

David

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Explorer wrote:

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Didi, Not sure how bad or assessible the job is but as a rust treatment I use a product called "Plus Rust Converter & Primer". Clean the area of flaky & surface rust without being too particular then brush on. Where there is an over lap onto paintwork wipe off with a damp cloth.

You would then need to use a touchp paint of some sort, Auto shops sell pressure paks for most applications.

This stuff definately works have tried other brands but have found the "Plus" brand far better. Pretty hard to get but if You are interested can chase up the distributor for You. 1 litre cost about $30.00 from memory.

Mike.

 

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 Sounds good Mike. Just not sure I could do it without making a bigger mess!

Aus-Kiwi wrote:

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Where do you live ? If at present if you can ? Spray rust converter on bad areas . Then drown it with fish oil or similar on the inside by removing inside panels or drilling holes then plugging after .i use A compressor with engine degreaser gun full of fish oil .. I have the welding and cutting gear if you live in outer subs of Sydney ..

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 Thanks aus-Kiwi but I am on the Murray River atm and will be going up to the Flinders over the next month. But cheers for your advice