I have installed a fan behind the fridge in our van and picked up power for it. Fan runs well. I want to install a Narva rocker switch in the circuit so the fan can be switched off. I have placed the switch in the positive wire that runs to the fan and connected the wires to the positive and ACC terminals on the switch. I have not attached an earth wire to the earth terminal as the switch is simply breaking the circuit.
I don't understand why the fan doesn't work with this set up. When I take the switch out of the circuit fan works fine again. Clearly I don't understand 12v so any help forum members can give me will be appreciated.
Rowan.
Old Col said
04:04 PM Apr 7, 2016
12v positive to the pos and the acc to the fan should work for a 2or 3 terminal switch
the earth is for the light in the switch, sounds like a faulty switch or a bad crimp on the terminal
you did strip the wire before crimping the terminal (don't laugh seen it before)
have you got a test light or a multi meter
what was the p/n of the switch
KevinC said
05:05 PM Apr 7, 2016
That little Narva rocker wouldn't have an indicator light built into it would it? If it does, the wiring could be a bit different. Can't give you a diagram but someone else might be able to.
Aus-Kiwi said
10:16 PM Apr 7, 2016
I have a thermos switch on mine . Plus solar fan on top cover ..
erad said
08:44 AM Apr 8, 2016
It sounds to me as if you have the wires on the wrong terminals. Get a multimeter, and using the resistance scales, check which terminals show zero resistance when the switch is 'ON', and infinity when 'OFF'. If you cannot get this, the switch is probably crook.
Gus1949 said
09:13 AM Apr 8, 2016
Thank you for your assistance to date. Wire stripped and all crimps are good. The wiring is ok and fan worked before I cut the positive wire to insert the switch so it is clear the problem is with the switch wiring. The switch has an LED light to indicate when on. I have tried attaching the wires to the switch in all combinations but problem not solved. Also used a different type of switch, same problem. I have a multimeter and can test the resistance on the switch but not sure which scale to use. Any further advice is appreciated.
dorian said
09:26 AM Apr 8, 2016
Use the lowest range, usually 200 ohms.
OutbackMK said
04:55 PM Apr 8, 2016
I had a small switch purchased from Jaycar but it needed 240volts for Led so light never came on.
Another way would be to have a small tell tail LED between a toggle switch and the fan, my second switch I purchased was a 12volt one with a LED and circuit diagram and it worked fine. (Try multimeter across the terminals of the switch work out which one give a full short when switch is toggled.
Next mod will be to install a temp sensor in the circuit to allow automatic switching on during the day if the fridge gets too hot, I turn mine of at night.
Brian
KevinC said
06:05 PM Apr 8, 2016
The switches you've tried could be more complex than they need to be. After all a switch is just a fancy way of twisting wires together. Forgetting the Narva for a while, could the other switch be less than simple? That is, could it possibly have more than two terminals? If so, I suggest you go to the local parts shop and buy the simplest cheapest switch you can find and repeat your trials with it. If you can't get the fan to work through that switch then I suggest you tell us more about where you fan power comes from and where you earthed it. Switching a fan can't be that much trouble. You're missing something obvious.
landy said
09:29 PM Apr 8, 2016
Hi just to prove the fan is still working ok take out the switch and twist the wires together. Landy
landy said
09:34 PM Apr 8, 2016
Sorry I just re read thread you have already done that.
03_Troopy said
07:09 AM Apr 9, 2016
If you've had two goes at wiring a simple switch, and still haven't succeeded, take it to an auto sparky, and watch him when he does the job.
03_Troopy said
07:12 AM Apr 9, 2016
OutbackMK wrote:
I had a small switch purchased from Jaycar but it needed 240volts for Led so light never came on. Another way would be to have a small tell tail LED between a toggle switch and the fan, my second switch I purchased was a 12volt one with a LED and circuit diagram and it worked fine. (Try multimeter across the terminals of the switch work out which one give a full short when switch is toggled. Next mod will be to install a temp sensor in the circuit to allow automatic switching on during the day if the fridge gets too hot, I turn mine of at night. Brian
That would have been a neon. A LED illuminated switch will normally be 12V or 24V DC
Pamela G said
07:27 AM Apr 9, 2016
Have a look at mr google lots of diagrams search for a spst 12v wiring diagram . If it still does not work I suggest its faulty. This is how I did mine for the fridge
Trevor
exa41 said
10:51 AM Apr 9, 2016
Have alook at the wiring diag on the packet.sound horribly like there is a connection issue.
Gus1949 said
03:46 PM Apr 9, 2016
Thank you all, multimeter test on the switch showed up a dud switch. Returned it to Repco and new switch works a dream.
KevinC said
04:02 PM Apr 9, 2016
Thanks for the feedback. We can stop worrying now.
aussie_paul said
04:46 PM Apr 9, 2016
Gus1949 wrote:
Thank you all, multimeter test on the switch showed up a dud switch. Returned it to Repco and new switch works a dream.
A lesson for young players, new is not always fit for purpose
Aussie Paul.
03_Troopy said
06:11 PM Apr 9, 2016
Gus1949 wrote:
Thank you all, multimeter test on the switch showed up a dud switch. Returned it to Repco and new switch works a dream.
Also used a different type of switch, same problem.
So what was wrong with the other switch?
Gus1949 said
07:45 PM Apr 9, 2016
Troopy, don't know what was wrong with switch it just didn't work. As long as they replaced it with no messing about I was happy.
03_Troopy said
07:08 AM Apr 10, 2016
Gus1949 wrote:
Troopy, don't know what was wrong with switch it just didn't work. As long as they replaced it with no messing about I was happy.
So you had two dead switches??? that's pretty unusual.
Gus1949 wrote:
Thank you for your assistance to date. Wire stripped and all crimps are good. The wiring is ok and fan worked before I cut the positive wire to insert the switch so it is clear the problem is with the switch wiring. The switch has an LED light to indicate when on. I have tried attaching the wires to the switch in all combinations but problem not solved. Also used a different type of switch, same problem. I have a multimeter and can test the resistance on the switch but not sure which scale to use. Any further advice is appreciated.
I have installed a fan behind the fridge in our van and picked up power for it. Fan runs well. I want to install a Narva rocker switch in the circuit so the fan can be switched off. I have placed the switch in the positive wire that runs to the fan and connected the wires to the positive and ACC terminals on the switch. I have not attached an earth wire to the earth terminal as the switch is simply breaking the circuit.
I don't understand why the fan doesn't work with this set up. When I take the switch out of the circuit fan works fine again. Clearly I don't understand 12v so any help forum members can give me will be appreciated.
Rowan.
the earth is for the light in the switch, sounds like a faulty switch or a bad crimp on the terminal
you did strip the wire before crimping the terminal (don't laugh seen it before)
have you got a test light or a multi meter
what was the p/n of the switch
Thank you for your assistance to date. Wire stripped and all crimps are good. The wiring is ok and fan worked before I cut the positive wire to insert the switch so it is clear the problem is with the switch wiring. The switch has an LED light to indicate when on. I have tried attaching the wires to the switch in all combinations but problem not solved. Also used a different type of switch, same problem. I have a multimeter and can test the resistance on the switch but not sure which scale to use. Any further advice is appreciated.
Another way would be to have a small tell tail LED between a toggle switch and the fan, my second switch I purchased was a 12volt one with a LED and circuit diagram and it worked fine. (Try multimeter across the terminals of the switch work out which one give a full short when switch is toggled.
Next mod will be to install a temp sensor in the circuit to allow automatic switching on during the day if the fridge gets too hot, I turn mine of at night.
Brian
Landy
That would have been a neon. A LED illuminated switch will normally be 12V or 24V DC
Thank you all, multimeter test on the switch showed up a dud switch. Returned it to Repco and new switch works a dream.
A lesson for young players, new is not always fit for purpose
Aussie Paul.
So what was wrong with the other switch?
Troopy, don't know what was wrong with switch it just didn't work. As long as they replaced it with no messing about I was happy.
So you had two dead switches??? that's pretty unusual.
Ah well, as long as it's working now eh....