I'm fairly new to the forum although i've been a long time lurker for a couple of years now and believe i've exhausted alot of my researching so thought it's time to ask those out in the field some questions please :)
I've been a mechanic for 28+ years and live in the Whitsundays. My wife and i have just put a order in for a 2016 model 21` Jayco starcraft which we hope to pick up in july and hit the road for 7+ years, focusing alot on being off grid for a large majority of the time.
The Starcraft we ordered will be coming with a RPD 218 waeco (coolmatic i think) compressor fridge which i'm aware fridges are the main battery drainer in general. Now after all my research i'm yet to come up with any recent real life figures on what this fridge/freezer draws in amps per day but i'm trying to work out if my 300w solar power will be enough.
From two different manuals i have readings of 3.4ah/h or 70watts in another spec sheet or 7.5 amps current draw in another or 9.5amps in another sheet, kind of confusing:) and each spec sheet also says a different weight from 45kg to 92kg so some real life experience of what to expect would be appreciated thanks.
After all my research i see some people say they can survive off the grid no problems on 300w and others say 600w and up so basically i'm just trying to work it all out and get more panels if need be and update to redarc mppt regulator etc as well if needed.
As i'm not on the road yet i've done a "suspected" calculation of the load i think i might use and that's likely to be 74amps during the day and 38 amps at night which includes lights and fans etc and thats also assuming fridge draws 3.5 amps for 24 hours ?
My batteries are 2 x 120ahAGM and as mentioned i have 300w solar power all going through the standard jayco equipment until i decide on a proper dcdc charger / regulator etc
So...... finally the question is :) .... would 3.5ah/h a day be a fair guess at what this compressor fridge will draw and... is 300w solar going to be enough for long term freedom camping ?
thanks in advance
madaboutled said
11:10 PM Mar 20, 2016
Most solar calculations are for ideal conditions, panels on the right angle to the sun, perfect days no clouds/rain etc.... So, the more solar capacity you have the better. Our fridge was an Engle Upright 240/12v & we have 2 x 130 amp AGM's, lighting is all LED and the ussual portable devices that need power. We did a 12 month trip last year we had 340 Watts solar, we managed but had to run the generator a few more times than we would have liked. The first thing I did when we got back was add another 170 Watt panel.
I think the extra panel will make all the difference.
Going by your total amps calculation, you will need 5 to 6 hours of good sunlight a day, which is a big ask. Add another 150 Watt panel and you'd bring that back to 3 to 4 hours. These are very rough calculations but should give you an idea. Also note that our panels are flat mounted on the roof and that also decreases their capacity somewhat.
Aus-Kiwi said
11:15 PM Mar 20, 2016
Boarder line ? Another 100 or 120 watt panel to give 33 amp charge . If you have the room .,
KevKim37 said
12:20 AM Mar 21, 2016
I also have had a Waeco Coolmatic 220litre in our van using full-time for11 yrs and from experience I can say that 300watts is Not Sufficient. I have 610 watts and that is closer to what you require.
Even then in the southern states during winter you will find the Sun Hours fairly Poor and more input power is required either extra Solar or DC-DC Charging from the Tow vehicle when travelling or Generator.
I converted to Lithium Batteries15 mths ago which virtually eliminates the use of a Generator in all but prolonged heavy weather.
Cheers Kev.
skooks said
08:45 AM Mar 21, 2016
Thanks for the feedback , as suspected i'll look into doubling the solar and perhaps one more 120ah battery :)
Secondly
in your opinion...Is the Redarc BMS1230 worth considering as a alternative to a separate BCDC1240 DCDC charger(or ctek) + a 240v charger + the standard jayco solar regulator. I like the concept of it, although just not certain if its $500 extra worth of advantages over the two individual chargers
Cheers
Skooks
woofta and precious said
01:06 PM Mar 21, 2016
Hi Skooks,
We have the same fridge in our new Atlantic caravan.
First time we used it, the red warning light started flashing, and hasn't stopped since.
It seems to work well, but was worried it may be doing some harm.
I contacted Waeco, who were very good, and suggested I ring my local Waeco dealer, which I did.
Arranged for them to come around and check it out, they tested everything and couldn't work out what was wrong.
I know the poor lad was on the phone to dometic for well over half an hour, and in the end they have ordered the front pcb and the rear pcb which should be installed on Wednesday.
Frustrated that the fridge has a fault, but can't complain about there service.
At least I know the fridge has been installed properly with the correct spacing, wire thickness, fuses, drains etc.
Also have a Waeco CF50 in the car which is 5 years old and never had a problem.
I only have 240 watts solar on the roof, 1x120 folding panel, 2x 100ah batteries in van, and just in case 2x100ah batteries in the ute.
Brian
woolman said
08:00 PM Mar 21, 2016
We have a 220 l Waeco and draw 40 to 50 Amp hrs /day. I have packed the top and sides with pink batts as prior was using up to 90 Amp hrs /day. I held pink batts in with that silver roof insulation. Gave me a surface to push the fridge in on. I had 420 watts of solar which was sufficient, until wife got a CPAP so now have 600 watts . Wife can also watch TV half the night without a problem. do have led lights as well.
Neil
Phil C said
08:28 PM Mar 21, 2016
Gday skooks and welcome to the forum
This is a discussion that a lot of folk have varying opinions. Within the recent weeks we crossed the Nullarbor and now rest our bones in Perth for a few weeks (in a caravan park). I discovered that my setup (1 120W solar and 2 110AH AGMs, dometic fridge etc) in our starcraft just did the trick. There was one cloudy morning at Madura that the batts were a bit low so I put a stop to our showering that morning (stinky but still nice). It rained most of the trip from Penong to Fraser Range.
I ran the generator only twice for that whole trip, stayed at 2 caravan parks and didnt suffer too much, batts lowest at 12.8VDC and all was well.
The key here, as I believe is dont over do it, it takes cash and adds a lot of weight to the van. I am a minimalist and believe in just enough to get the job done. Been on the road for 3 years now and hardly use the genny, but stay in a few parks.
Good luck, im sure you will make the right choice for you.
Aus-Kiwi said
12:42 AM Mar 22, 2016
A couple of nights In park would pay for a panel these days .
Izabarack said
08:00 AM Mar 22, 2016
If you rely only on Solar to power your setup, 300 is not going to be enough unless good conditions happen every day. I base that advice on personal experience. I would be wanting 4 hours of good sun every day to keep the battery bank pretty close to full. 240 AH of storage could not be relied on for more than a couple of days if bad conditions are encountered. A depleted battery bank takes extra effort to bring it back towards full while still trying to take care of current use. I would make an effort to get up to 450 as a first move. Then some backup. Depending on how much moving you will do, a DC-DC charger off the vehicle alternator would be a good move and don't dismiss the idea of a 1000W Honda generator.
The genny thing - I have a 2000 W Honda that runs the aircon. If the aircon is needed, chances are the sun is out. The trade off then is that maybe the fridge works more but the genny surplus , over running the aircon, goes towards the battery bank. I have seen a bit of generator rage out there but never when the generator does not run before 8 and not after 5 PM.
Iza
skooks said
09:12 PM Mar 23, 2016
Thanks for all your feedback, its good to get responses from those out on the road in real life senario's
Aus-Kiwi said
09:19 PM Mar 23, 2016
I'm in Albony at present . Looks like it's going to be overcast the next few days ? We'll be starting our generator to boil the jug . 20 min in morning and maybe lunch & dinner is enough to keep batteries charged . Even though we have 400 watt solar ? It's hardly working under these conditions . From memory our charger is 80 amp on full charge ..
oldtrack123 said
12:20 AM Mar 25, 2016
skooks wrote:
Thanks for the feedback , as suspected i'll look into doubling the solar and perhaps one more 120ah battery :)
Secondly
in your opinion...Is the Redarc BMS1230 worth considering as a alternative to a separate BCDC1240 DCDC charger(or ctek) + a 240v charger + the standard jayco solar regulator. I like the concept of it, although just not certain if its $500 extra worth of advantages over the two individual chargers
Cheers Skooks
HI Shooks
Just be aware that the Redarc does not combine inputs
If the alternator is running, the solar panel cannot input, so you are better keeping the solar regulator connected to the van battery.
The same applies to the mains charger
Will they all work together ? YES, especially when really needed with a battery in a low SOC or a heavy draw on the battery.
AS it nears fully charged or float, some will shut down , but come back on if the voltage drops
-- Edited by oldtrack123 on Friday 25th of March 2016 12:22:03 AM
GerryP said
12:20 PM Mar 26, 2016
Hi oldtrack... while you are indeed correct in that the older Redarc BMS1230 could not use two inputs simultaneously, the newer Manager30 and the latest 'lithium capable' ones in fact do.
I have just installed the Manager30 into our van and as the sun goes down, you can see on the remote how it slowly reduces it's solar component and increases it's 240. The same happens with solar and 12 volts while driving.
Just thought I'd clarify that for anyone contemplating one of the newer Redarc BMS models.
oldtrack123 said
01:53 PM Mar 26, 2016
Hi Gerry Thanks for that
Still has a30A output limit
There may not be much left over to charge the battery if a high load [big 3way fridge ] is also connected
-- Edited by oldtrack123 on Saturday 26th of March 2016 02:08:06 PM
GerryP said
02:21 PM Mar 26, 2016
That's true Ralph, although I have our 3-way connected directly to the car via an anderson plug (and a FridgeSwitch), so the BMS is really only charging the house batteries when on the move. While camped, the fridge is either 240 mains or on gas.
Might be different for those with a large compressor fridge, but they at least aren't as power hungry.
Cheers
-- Edited by GerryP on Saturday 26th of March 2016 10:11:51 PM
Aus-Kiwi said
11:22 PM Mar 31, 2016
3 way fridge uses power big time . On gas they are ok But only when stationary, parked . Modern compressor fridge would be my choice these days .
carpaidiem said
11:09 AM Apr 25, 2016
About 12 months ago I bit the bullet & ripped out the old 3way 90ltr Electrolux & put in an Eva-Cool 175ltr 12 volt compressor fridge. Now added a 200 watt solar panel & MPPT regulator. Regulator input 18.5 to 19 volts, output to battery 14.3 volts (120AH DEEP CYCLE) sweet . Have run on battery & solar for 3 days, seems to have perpetual motion, no power drop. I think the newer compressor fridges run on the smell of an oily rag.
Hi all,
I'm fairly new to the forum although i've been a long time lurker for a couple of years now and believe i've exhausted alot of my researching so thought it's time to ask those out in the field some questions please :)
I've been a mechanic for 28+ years and live in the Whitsundays. My wife and i have just put a order in for a 2016 model 21` Jayco starcraft which we hope to pick up in july and hit the road for 7+ years, focusing alot on being off grid for a large majority of the time.
The Starcraft we ordered will be coming with a RPD 218 waeco (coolmatic i think) compressor fridge which i'm aware fridges are the main battery drainer in general. Now after all my research i'm yet to come up with any recent real life figures on what this fridge/freezer draws in amps per day but i'm trying to work out if my 300w solar power will be enough.
From two different manuals i have readings of 3.4ah/h or 70watts in another spec sheet or 7.5 amps current draw in another or 9.5amps in another sheet, kind of confusing:) and each spec sheet also says a different weight from 45kg to 92kg so some real life experience of what to expect would be appreciated thanks.
After all my research i see some people say they can survive off the grid no problems on 300w and others say 600w and up so basically i'm just trying to work it all out and get more panels if need be and update to redarc mppt regulator etc as well if needed.
As i'm not on the road yet i've done a "suspected" calculation of the load i think i might use and that's likely to be 74amps during the day and 38 amps at night which includes lights and fans etc and thats also assuming fridge draws 3.5 amps for 24 hours ?
My batteries are 2 x 120ahAGM and as mentioned i have 300w solar power all going through the standard jayco equipment until i decide on a proper dcdc charger / regulator etc
So...... finally the question is :) .... would 3.5ah/h a day be a fair guess at what this compressor fridge will draw and... is 300w solar going to be enough for long term freedom camping ?
thanks in advance
Most solar calculations are for ideal conditions, panels on the right angle to the sun, perfect days no clouds/rain etc.... So, the more solar capacity you have the better. Our fridge was an Engle Upright 240/12v & we have 2 x 130 amp AGM's, lighting is all LED and the ussual portable devices that need power. We did a 12 month trip last year we had 340 Watts solar, we managed but had to run the generator a few more times than we would have liked. The first thing I did when we got back was add another 170 Watt panel.
I think the extra panel will make all the difference.
Going by your total amps calculation, you will need 5 to 6 hours of good sunlight a day, which is a big ask. Add another 150 Watt panel and you'd bring that back to 3 to 4 hours. These are very rough calculations but should give you an idea. Also note that our panels are flat mounted on the roof and that also decreases their capacity somewhat.
I also have had a Waeco Coolmatic 220litre in our van using full-time for11 yrs and from experience I can say that 300watts is Not Sufficient. I have 610 watts and that is closer to what you require.
Even then in the southern states during winter you will find the Sun Hours fairly Poor and more input power is required either extra Solar or DC-DC Charging from the Tow vehicle when travelling or Generator.
I converted to Lithium Batteries15 mths ago which virtually eliminates the use of a Generator in all but prolonged heavy weather.
Cheers Kev.
Secondly
in your opinion...Is the Redarc BMS1230 worth considering as a alternative to a separate BCDC1240 DCDC charger(or ctek) + a 240v charger + the standard jayco solar regulator. I like the concept of it, although just not certain if its $500 extra worth of advantages over the two individual chargers
Cheers
Skooks
We have the same fridge in our new Atlantic caravan.
First time we used it, the red warning light started flashing, and hasn't stopped since.
It seems to work well, but was worried it may be doing some harm.
I contacted Waeco, who were very good, and suggested I ring my local Waeco dealer, which I did.
Arranged for them to come around and check it out, they tested everything and couldn't work out what was wrong.
I know the poor lad was on the phone to dometic for well over half an hour, and in the end they have ordered the front pcb and the rear pcb which should be installed on Wednesday.
Frustrated that the fridge has a fault, but can't complain about there service.
At least I know the fridge has been installed properly with the correct spacing, wire thickness, fuses, drains etc.
Also have a Waeco CF50 in the car which is 5 years old and never had a problem.
I only have 240 watts solar on the roof, 1x120 folding panel, 2x 100ah batteries in van, and just in case 2x100ah batteries in the ute.
Brian
We have a 220 l Waeco and draw 40 to 50 Amp hrs /day. I have packed the top and sides with pink batts as prior was using up to 90 Amp hrs /day. I held pink batts in with that silver roof insulation. Gave me a surface to push the fridge in on. I had 420 watts of solar which was sufficient, until wife got a CPAP so now have 600 watts . Wife can also watch TV half the night without a problem. do have led lights as well.
Neil
This is a discussion that a lot of folk have varying opinions. Within the recent weeks we crossed the Nullarbor and now rest our bones in Perth for a few weeks (in a caravan park). I discovered that my setup (1 120W solar and 2 110AH AGMs, dometic fridge etc) in our starcraft just did the trick. There was one cloudy morning at Madura that the batts were a bit low so I put a stop to our showering that morning (stinky but still nice). It rained most of the trip from Penong to Fraser Range.
I ran the generator only twice for that whole trip, stayed at 2 caravan parks and didnt suffer too much, batts lowest at 12.8VDC and all was well.
The key here, as I believe is dont over do it, it takes cash and adds a lot of weight to the van. I am a minimalist and believe in just enough to get the job done. Been on the road for 3 years now and hardly use the genny, but stay in a few parks.
Good luck, im sure you will make the right choice for you.
The genny thing - I have a 2000 W Honda that runs the aircon. If the aircon is needed, chances are the sun is out. The trade off then is that maybe the fridge works more but the genny surplus , over running the aircon, goes towards the battery bank. I have seen a bit of generator rage out there but never when the generator does not run before 8 and not after 5 PM.
Iza
HI Shooks
Just be aware that the Redarc does not combine inputs
If the alternator is running, the solar panel cannot input, so you are better keeping the solar regulator connected to the van battery.
The same applies to the mains charger
Will they all work together ? YES, especially when really needed with a battery in a low SOC or a heavy draw on the battery.
AS it nears fully charged or float, some will shut down , but come back on if the voltage drops
-- Edited by oldtrack123 on Friday 25th of March 2016 12:22:03 AM
Hi oldtrack... while you are indeed correct in that the older Redarc BMS1230 could not use two inputs simultaneously, the newer Manager30 and the latest 'lithium capable' ones in fact do.
I have just installed the Manager30 into our van and as the sun goes down, you can see on the remote how it slowly reduces it's solar component and increases it's 240. The same happens with solar and 12 volts while driving.
Just thought I'd clarify that for anyone contemplating one of the newer Redarc BMS models.
Hi Gerry
Thanks for that
Still has a30A output limit
There may not be much left over to charge the battery if a high load [big 3way fridge ] is also connected
-- Edited by oldtrack123 on Saturday 26th of March 2016 02:08:06 PM
That's true Ralph, although I have our 3-way connected directly to the car via an anderson plug (and a FridgeSwitch), so the BMS is really only charging the house batteries when on the move. While camped, the fridge is either 240 mains or on gas.
Might be different for those with a large compressor fridge, but they at least aren't as power hungry.
Cheers
-- Edited by GerryP on Saturday 26th of March 2016 10:11:51 PM