I use a combination depending on what sort of soil I have to work with.
for "normal" soil I use 350mm long 10mm steel with a sharpened point.
for sand I use screw in "large dog tethers" about $2.50 ea from big w
if the ground is really hard I drill a hole with a long masonry bit and drive my 10mm steel ones in
for lashing the awning down I use a couple of 400mm long 10 x 10 mm angle iron.
Frank
Aus-Kiwi said
09:36 PM Feb 11, 2016
I have about 20 average size and 4, 20 X 20 angle iron for sand.. I carry axe/ hammer..
Have a few screw is I use on hard clay.. Hardly used them much YET..
Leaving for the big lap in a few days..
Hey Jim said
09:49 PM Feb 11, 2016
Hi Trouto,
No more tent pegs for me.
One Ryobi 18V cordless rattle gun and 250mm gal coach bolts with a washer beneath. Making up a few home made extended models as well.
PS: If you want to make your Extended models, I use a steel fencing picket to support the cut coach bolt while welding the extension in the centre and just grind them smooth.
The Head just hangs over the end of the picket. To easy.
Jim
-- Edited by Hey Jim on Friday 12th of February 2016 07:39:52 AM
ballast2 said
09:59 PM Feb 11, 2016
G'day Trouto. I agree totally with Jim. Best way ever. I use 18V Ozito. They are a bit cheaper.
Cheers
D and D said
10:33 PM Feb 11, 2016
I use the coach bolt option with a Makita 240v drill - just got to remember to angle the coach bolt. If you're at the Opal CP at Lightning ridge make use of the high power, Makita impoact drill to make a pilot hole for whatever you plan to use to hold your awning down.
Dave
Neil n Chris said
11:19 PM Feb 11, 2016
I love the coach bolt idea! I already use my ryobi for the corner stands so it can do these bolts too, good stuff!!
Dougwe said
06:49 AM Feb 12, 2016
KFT wrote:
G'day Trouto
I use a combination depending on what sort of soil I have to work with.
for "normal" soil I use 350mm long 10mm steel with a sharpened point.
for sand I use screw in "large dog tethers" about $2.50 ea from big w
if the ground is really hard I drill a hole with a long masonry bit and drive my 10mm steel ones in
for lashing the awning down I use a couple of 400mm long 10 x 10 mm angle iron.
Frank
I hope you have your Union ticket with you KFC on that construction site?
I just use the "normal" 350mm pegs so far but have others just in case.
trouto said
08:16 AM Feb 12, 2016
thanks guys
might take a look at the coach screws and washers
they seam to be the go
there are plastic ones on ebay that i was looking at but they work out to be about $6.00 each
im sure i could buy 3 or 4 coach screws for that , and they are steel
all good
thanks once again
Cupie said
10:23 AM Feb 12, 2016
I have a large bag of the bloody things .. Can't help myself .. just keep on picking them up & making 'new & improved' versions.
I prefer stainless steel ones made from old oven racks. I have them in various lengths & thicknesses.
My current favorites are the long coach bolts/screws that I got from a specialist screw stockist. They are much longer than the Bunnings ones. I bang them in with the back of the axe & screw them out with an old battery drill & home made extension socket that I use to wind down the corner steadies. Olley46 kindly sent me a couple of excellent brackets that he made from aluminum to attach the guy ropes. Much better than the modified washers that I previously used.
I think that I'll borrow a welder & extend a few with a length of reo rod or even better with a long suitable hex head bolt out of my junk box.
I even made up a few spade shaped ones for using in sand. Never used so I don't know how good they are.
Before I started using the coach screw pegs I would always 'double peg' the guy ropes at either end of the awning roller. Two guy ropes at 90 degrees to each other at both ends, They were angle pegged with 2 long pegs each at 90 degrees to each other. One guy rope at each end attached by a strap around the roller & the other clipped into a SS saddle bolted to the awning bracket. A bit overdone perhaps but that's the way I am.
I use old engine valves as pegs to hold the shade cloth ground cover in position.
In my opinion it is essential to use some sort of 'spring' in all guy ropes & tie downs. For the awning I purchase springs from camping stores. For all others I make up rubber bands from old inner tubes. I just twist them up to adjust their length & attach them to the peg via the eyelets in the annex walls etc. You won't tear out the eyelets in the annex walls using this method. I have seen some people using ratchet tie down straps as guy ropes, but unless you twist them they make terrible bull roarer type noises in the wind.
-- Edited by Cupie on Friday 12th of February 2016 10:28:30 AM
Santa said
12:16 PM Feb 12, 2016
I adhere to the KISS principal, still use a hammer similar to this and the same steel pegs I've been using for the past 30 years, the method has yet to fail me.
A hammer costs little, does not need recharging and wont fail.
Call me a Luddite if you like, however the less gear I have to carry and maintain the better I like it.
..... I have seen some people using ratchet tie down straps as guy ropes, but unless you twist them they make terrible bull roarer type noises in the wind.
-- Edited by Cupie on Friday 12th of February 2016 10:28:30 AM
Several people in our club use the ratchet tie downs to secure their awnings. While I haven't heard any of them mention 'bull roarer' rumblings I'll pass on that tip to them.
(I had similar rumblings from our hold down straps on the door mirrors, particularly when there was a side on wind. The solution was to slip a small piece of foam under the strap.)
A couple of months ago I posted photos of the coach bolts I was using and also the 'modified' washers that the trace springs are fastened onto.
Like others I have been using a cordless drill to drive the screws in and extract them - they come straight out no matter how long they have been in the ground. In fact, for the last seventeen trips I have not carried either a hammer or straight pegs!
For the last three trips I have been using a 240V rattle gun - it is amazing how fast those screws go in. And come out faster. (Yes I know - it won't work at free camping sites. But SWMBO will never consider free camping!)
Last January I was at the Goulburn River Caravan Park in Seymour and put four screws down to secure the awning and a man came over, looked at the screw heads and commented: "That's cheating!" To each their own I guess.
The following week I was in the Barwon River Caravan Park in Geelong and our next door neighbour glanced down at the hex heads and said "Those are going to be hard to get out." But a quick demo had him saying that he was going to look into getting them for himself.
Murray
-- Edited by Long Weekend on Friday 12th of February 2016 02:13:48 PM
-- Edited by Long Weekend on Saturday 13th of February 2016 01:06:12 PM
Cupie said
02:32 PM Feb 12, 2016
Long Weekend wrote:
Cupie wrote:
..... I have seen some people using ratchet tie down straps as guy ropes, but unless you twist them they make terrible bull roarer type noises in the wind.
-- Edited by Cupie on Friday 12th of February 2016 10:28:30 AM
Several people in our club use the ratchet tie downs to secure their awnings. While I haven't heard any of them mention 'bull roarer' rumblings I'll pass on that tip to them.
(I had similar rumblings from our hold down straps on the door mirrors, particularly when there was a side on wind. The solution was to slip a small piece of foam under the strap.)
-- Edited by Long Weekend on Friday 12th of February 2016 02:13:48 PM
I use fabric strap to secure my kayaks to the roof. They used to roar madly until I used the twist approach that I got from a kayaking site. Of course that speed of the vehicle may be a factor.
I'll try the foam solution too.
Cruising Cruze said
04:29 PM Feb 12, 2016
@ Dougwe
I've been told that KFT wears a hard hat when he is putting his pegs in the ground
Cheers John
Phil C said
05:01 PM Feb 12, 2016
Cruising Cruze wrote:
@ Dougwe
I've been told that KFT wears a hard hat when he is putting his pegs in the ground
Cheers John
And safety glasses, gloves and welding mask....
Are we off subject yet Dougwe???
Desert Dweller said
07:00 PM Feb 12, 2016
We use very thick nylon ropes & large strong pegs belted in to secure our awning. If it gets too rough we bring our roll out awning in. We've seen quite a few awnings ''go west'' particularly the flimsy Fiamia & Proster types. We've been camping for over 40 years & nothing beats decent pegs & ropes. There are a lot of newly retired people getting around that have never camped in their lives before. They're the ones that make all the mistakes & provide our entertainment!
-- Edited by Desert Dweller on Friday 12th of February 2016 07:01:02 PM
Dougwe said
08:27 PM Feb 12, 2016
Phil C wrote:
Cruising Cruze wrote:
@ Dougwe
I've been told that KFT wears a hard hat when he is putting his pegs in the ground
Cheers John
And safety glasses, gloves and welding mask....
Are we off subject yet Dougwe???
No, not
YET.
Gee Phil, you and CC know KFC well, too.
Sorry Trouto, these guys are trying to get me to go "off topic"
Ha ha all good doug
Thanks to all the answer so stay tuned and I'll let you know after this trip away
Cod fishing next weekend
Wife's chemo for the next 4 weeks and then a bit of "our" time away for 6 weeks
Thanks everyone
KFT said
10:14 PM Feb 12, 2016
not sayin nuffink tonight
hehehe
littledick said
09:11 AM Feb 13, 2016
Hey Jim wrote:
Hi Trouto,
No more tent pegs for me.
One Ryobi 18V cordless rattle gun and 250mm gal coach bolts with a washer beneath. Making up a few home made extended models as well.
PS: If you want to make your Extended models, I use a steel fencing picket to support the cut coach bolt while welding the extension in the centre and just grind them smooth.
The Head just hangs over the end of the picket. To easy.
Jim
-- Edited by Hey Jim on Friday 12th of February 2016 07:39:52 AM
Another vote for the coach bolts.
Dick.
Aus-Kiwi said
01:14 PM Feb 13, 2016
I have plenty of coach screws being an old lineworker . But find them wanting in sandy soil . I quietly use them on ashfelt etc and Hamer over when finished ., I often set up in motor racing, drag strip areas ., having plenty of options is nice . Extra pegs for guy ropes helps big time if wind comes up . What gets me if you prepare for the wind it NEVER gets windy ., Rocks in sand is my enemy .. Grrr!!
Olley46 said
02:41 PM Feb 13, 2016
I dont know how you blokes keep coach bolts in the ground they have thread and a nut, I use coach crews they stay in
Lance C
Long Weekend said
04:00 PM Feb 13, 2016
Yes, putting BOLTS into the ground would be a bit hard Lance Olley46. But I think that Jim Littledick is the only one using them.
Anyway, I definitely use SCREWS with a pointy end.
Incidentally, the Americans call them Lag Screws.
By the way, next time you see a circus anywhere have a look at what they use to peg down their tents; being axles from cars and trucks. I presume they have some sort of machines to pull the axles out of the ground when they move on.
Murray
littledick said
09:00 AM Feb 14, 2016
Long Weekend wrote:
Yes, putting BOLTS into the ground would be a bit hard Lance Olley46. But I think that Jim Littledick is the only one using them.
Anyway, I definitely use SCREWS with a pointy end.
Incidentally, the Americans call them Lag Screws.
By the way, next time you see a circus anywhere have a look at what they use to peg down their tents; being axles from cars and trucks. I presume they have some sort of machines to pull the axles out of the ground when they move on.
Murray
Unless the wrong terminology is being used my coach bolts hex head do have a point. So Screw or bolt by name, works the same regardless .
Dick.
Hey Jim said
09:25 AM Feb 14, 2016
littledick wrote:
Long Weekend wrote:
Yes, putting BOLTS into the ground would be a bit hard Lance Olley46. But I think that Jim Littledick is the only one using them.
Anyway, I definitely use SCREWS with a pointy end.
Incidentally, the Americans call them Lag Screws.
By the way, next time you see a circus anywhere have a look at what they use to peg down their tents; being axles from cars and trucks. I presume they have some sort of machines to pull the axles out of the ground when they move on.
Murray
Unless the wrong terminology is being used my coach bolts hex head do have a point. So Screw or bolt by name, works the same regardless .
Dick.
Hi Dick,
I agree with you X 2.
I have been using coach bolts (Screws) for 30 plus years. Some here just get screwed, or are brain dead. Just ignore silly OLD farts. They are not worth the time.
what do you use
hammer in ones or screw in ones
what size
What about sand
what about Lighting Ridge dirt
thinking of getting plastic screw in ones
any thoughts
thanks
I use a combination depending on what sort of soil I have to work with.
for "normal" soil I use 350mm long 10mm steel with a sharpened point.
for sand I use screw in "large dog tethers" about $2.50 ea from big w
if the ground is really hard I drill a hole with a long masonry bit and drive my 10mm steel ones in
for lashing the awning down I use a couple of 400mm long 10 x 10 mm angle iron.
Frank
Have a few screw is I use on hard clay.. Hardly used them much YET..
Leaving for the big lap in a few days..
Hi Trouto,
No more tent pegs for me.
One Ryobi 18V cordless rattle gun and 250mm gal coach bolts with a washer beneath. Making up a few home made extended models as well.
PS: If you want to make your Extended models, I use a steel fencing picket to support the cut coach bolt while welding the extension in the centre and just grind them smooth.
The Head just hangs over the end of the picket. To easy.
Jim
-- Edited by Hey Jim on Friday 12th of February 2016 07:39:52 AM
Cheers
Dave
I hope you have your Union ticket with you KFC on that construction site?
I just use the "normal" 350mm pegs so far but have others just in case.
might take a look at the coach screws and washers
they seam to be the go
there are plastic ones on ebay that i was looking at but they work out to be about $6.00 each
im sure i could buy 3 or 4 coach screws for that , and they are steel
all good
thanks once again
I have a large bag of the bloody things .. Can't help myself .. just keep on picking them up & making 'new & improved' versions.
I prefer stainless steel ones made from old oven racks. I have them in various lengths & thicknesses.
My current favorites are the long coach bolts/screws that I got from a specialist screw stockist. They are much longer than the Bunnings ones. I bang them in with the back of the axe & screw them out with an old battery drill & home made extension socket that I use to wind down the corner steadies. Olley46 kindly sent me a couple of excellent brackets that he made from aluminum to attach the guy ropes. Much better than the modified washers that I previously used.
I think that I'll borrow a welder & extend a few with a length of reo rod or even better with a long suitable hex head bolt out of my junk box.
I even made up a few spade shaped ones for using in sand. Never used so I don't know how good they are.
Before I started using the coach screw pegs I would always 'double peg' the guy ropes at either end of the awning roller. Two guy ropes at 90 degrees to each other at both ends, They were angle pegged with 2 long pegs each at 90 degrees to each other. One guy rope at each end attached by a strap around the roller & the other clipped into a SS saddle bolted to the awning bracket. A bit overdone perhaps but that's the way I am.
I use old engine valves as pegs to hold the shade cloth ground cover in position.
In my opinion it is essential to use some sort of 'spring' in all guy ropes & tie downs. For the awning I purchase springs from camping stores. For all others I make up rubber bands from old inner tubes. I just twist them up to adjust their length & attach them to the peg via the eyelets in the annex walls etc. You won't tear out the eyelets in the annex walls using this method. I have seen some people using ratchet tie down straps as guy ropes, but unless you twist them they make terrible bull roarer type noises in the wind.
-- Edited by Cupie on Friday 12th of February 2016 10:28:30 AM
I adhere to the KISS principal, still use a hammer similar to this
and the same steel pegs I've been using for the past 30 years, the method has yet to fail me.
A hammer costs little, does not need recharging and wont fail.
Call me a Luddite if you like, however the less gear I have to carry and maintain the better I like it.
Several people in our club use the ratchet tie downs to secure their awnings. While I haven't heard any of them mention 'bull roarer' rumblings I'll pass on that tip to them.
(I had similar rumblings from our hold down straps on the door mirrors, particularly when there was a side on wind. The solution was to slip a small piece of foam under the strap.)
A couple of months ago I posted photos of the coach bolts I was using and also the 'modified' washers that the trace springs are fastened onto.
Like others I have been using a cordless drill to drive the screws in and extract them - they come straight out no matter how long they have been in the ground. In fact, for the last seventeen trips I have not carried either a hammer or straight pegs!
For the last three trips I have been using a 240V rattle gun - it is amazing how fast those screws go in. And come out faster. (Yes I know - it won't work at free camping sites. But SWMBO will never consider free camping!)
Last January I was at the Goulburn River Caravan Park in Seymour and put four screws down to secure the awning and a man came over, looked at the screw heads and commented: "That's cheating!" To each their own I guess.
The following week I was in the Barwon River Caravan Park in Geelong and our next door neighbour glanced down at the hex heads and said "Those are going to be hard to get out." But a quick demo had him saying that he was going to look into getting them for himself.
Murray
-- Edited by Long Weekend on Friday 12th of February 2016 02:13:48 PM
-- Edited by Long Weekend on Saturday 13th of February 2016 01:06:12 PM
I use fabric strap to secure my kayaks to the roof. They used to roar madly until I used the twist approach that I got from a kayaking site. Of course that speed of the vehicle may be a factor.
I'll try the foam solution too.
@ Dougwe
I've been told that KFT wears a hard hat when he is putting his pegs in the ground
Cheers John
And safety glasses, gloves and welding mask....
Are we off subject yet Dougwe???
We use very thick nylon ropes & large strong pegs belted in to secure our awning. If it gets too rough we bring our roll out awning in. We've seen quite a few awnings ''go west'' particularly the flimsy Fiamia & Proster types. We've been camping for over 40 years & nothing beats decent pegs & ropes. There are a lot of newly retired people getting around that have never camped in their lives before. They're the ones that make all the mistakes & provide our entertainment!
-- Edited by Desert Dweller on Friday 12th of February 2016 07:01:02 PM
No, not
YET.
Gee Phil, you and CC know KFC well, too.
Sorry Trouto, these guys are trying to get me to go "off topic"
Thanks to all the answer so stay tuned and I'll let you know after this trip away
Cod fishing next weekend
Wife's chemo for the next 4 weeks and then a bit of "our" time away for 6 weeks
Thanks everyone
hehehe
Another vote for the coach bolts.
Dick.
I dont know how you blokes keep coach bolts in the ground they have thread and a nut, I use coach crews they stay in
Lance C
Anyway, I definitely use SCREWS with a pointy end.
Incidentally, the Americans call them Lag Screws.
By the way, next time you see a circus anywhere have a look at what they use to peg down their tents; being axles from cars and trucks. I presume they have some sort of machines to pull the axles out of the ground when they move on.
Murray
Unless the wrong terminology is being used my coach bolts hex head do have a point. So Screw or bolt by name, works the same regardless .
Dick.
Hi Dick,
I agree with you X 2.
I have been using coach bolts (Screws) for 30 plus years. Some here just get screwed, or are brain dead. Just ignore silly OLD farts. They are not worth the time.
Regards Jim