I was at the Newcastle Caravan and Camping Show at the weekend. What a lot of stuff to buy
However the subject to hand ! On the Generator Place stand which was selling Honda generators they had a sign which said, they guarantee a Honda EU20i would start ANY caravan airconditioner. Some instructions to turn off other items included.
Now that answers some peoples questions I thought.
Cheers Jaahn
.
Dougwe said
12:15 PM Feb 9, 2016
Yep, starts and runs my ibis3 with no problems. The only thing I actually turn off is the eco switch on the gene. I have an instantaneous hot water service so no problem there but have heard you must turn the hot water off. I never use anything else while aircon is running from gene power.
Cruising Cruze said
01:21 PM Feb 9, 2016
Hi Doug
How long does your Aircon runs on one tank full ??
Cheers John
Dougwe said
03:42 PM Feb 9, 2016
I get about 3.5 hours hard work John. I don't use it that often though, only when temps over 40c usually and I just can't last any longer. No go zone after 9pm though.
ROAD RUNNER said
09:58 PM Feb 9, 2016
I bought a new Honda EU201 recently and it also works well on my Ibis 3 however beware of the same size Yamaha generator as I was told by an Ebayer trying to sell his Yamaha due it not being capable of running his roof top air conditioner
Bruce and Bev said
12:14 AM Feb 10, 2016
My new caravan has an Ibis 2 in it and the new Honda 2 will not keep running. Eco off and just on fan to start with is ok - then as soon as I put it onto cooling - the gene stalls.
Somebody told me that the Ibis range has a "soft start" meant for genes of this size to operate them.
I recently started to get a vibration noise sometimes when it runs, so Air Command (the makers of Ibis) has agreed to have me get one of their local contractors to check it out. If it has leaves etc jammed in it - I pay. If its faulty, they pay. The person at Air Command said they were having an on-going problem with ALL the Ibis 3 models. As mine is the previous model - sorry folks - but I didn't ask what the fault was. But if you have having even minor issues with your Ibis 3 - get a warranty claim in asap, even if its outside the 12 mnth period - the warranty person said they were extending the warranty for this particular problem
This person also said it was important to run your RV air con for an hour or so at least once a month to avoid problems
KevKim37 said
09:00 PM Feb 10, 2016
I run our 13 yr old Dometic 3.2kw output cooling on the 11 yr old Honda EU 20 for 5-5.5 hrs on a Full Tank,Eco Off ie Full Power with the A/C set at No.2 fan speed and Thermostat on Max Cold. The reason being if the A/C cycles off and depending on the Ambient temps ie 45 degrees as at Greens Lake a few years ago the Honda EU 20 will Not restart the A/C if the Compressor Head Pressures have Not bled off enough which will cause the Generator's Overload Switch to operate (Temps inside on that day were approx 28-31 degrees). Otherwise the Honda's are quite capable of running Most Caravan/Motorhome A/C's from travellers I have spoken with as long as ALL Other 240 volt Devices plugged internally in the Unit are switched off ie Hot Water Systems, Battery Chargers or any other High draw 240 volt Device.
Cheers Kev.
Baz421 said
09:18 PM Feb 10, 2016
We also have a Dometic B3200 airconspecs are:
FL amps - comp 5.2 / motor 1.6
LR amps - comp 26 / motor 4.4.
Cooling 3.2kw nominal capacity - recommended Gen size 3.5kw BUT it says general guidance. Go figure. Our Honda2.0 runs it ok on full throttle.
Someone with relevant experience could provide advice on above BUT I think FL is running current and LR is start (momentary current).
Cheers Baz
KevKim37 said
09:28 PM Feb 10, 2016
I pretty sure the LR represents Locked Rotor giving the High Amp Readings supplied and FL is Full Load running amps.
KevKim37 said
09:33 PM Feb 10, 2016
Just found this on Google Baz.
R.L. stands for Rated Load, this is somewhat equivalent to the Full Load rating of a motor (FLA). Compressors are given RLA values since they are often used at less than the full load rating of the compressor motor.
L.R. stands for Locked Rotor. This is the amount of current that you can expect the compressor to draw if the drive motor rotor were locked. This also provides a reference for the current required to start the motor.
Cheers Kev.
Baz421 said
09:35 PM Feb 10, 2016
KevKim37 wrote:
Just found this on Google Baz.
R.L. stands for Rated Load, this is somewhat equivalent to the Full Load rating of a motor (FLA). Compressors are given RLA values since they are often used at less than the full load rating of the compressor motor.
L.R. stands for Locked Rotor. This is the amount of current that you can expect the compressor to draw if the drive motor rotor were locked. This also provides a reference for the current required to start the motor.
Cheers Kev.
OK good find Kev thanks.
oldtrack123 said
10:01 PM Feb 10, 2016
Hi
The LR current is also around the current the motor will draw at the very instant of startup [ ie 6.2kVA ,]if starting against a head pressure,[load]
or 1.05kVA unloaded
Kev has found that out
charles said
01:49 PM Mar 1, 2016
gday just thought I would try it Honda eui 2.0 on our van 21ft fusion with a b3200 air con started with eco off on 2 speed on fan and on max for cooling ran like a dream then put eco switch to on still ran very well just saved me buying a bigger unit thanks baz421 happy travels every one
Hi
I was at the Newcastle Caravan and Camping Show at the weekend. What a lot of stuff to buy
However the subject to hand ! On the Generator Place stand which was selling Honda generators they had a sign which said, they guarantee a Honda EU20i would start ANY caravan airconditioner. Some instructions to turn off other items included.
Now that answers some peoples questions I thought.
Cheers Jaahn
.
How long does your Aircon runs on one tank full ??
Cheers John
Somebody told me that the Ibis range has a "soft start" meant for genes of this size to operate them.
I recently started to get a vibration noise sometimes when it runs, so Air Command (the makers of Ibis) has agreed to have me get one of their local contractors to check it out. If it has leaves etc jammed in it - I pay. If its faulty, they pay. The person at Air Command said they were having an on-going problem with ALL the Ibis 3 models. As mine is the previous model - sorry folks - but I didn't ask what the fault was. But if you have having even minor issues with your Ibis 3 - get a warranty claim in asap, even if its outside the 12 mnth period - the warranty person said they were extending the warranty for this particular problem
This person also said it was important to run your RV air con for an hour or so at least once a month to avoid problems
I run our 13 yr old Dometic 3.2kw output cooling on the 11 yr old Honda EU 20 for 5-5.5 hrs on a Full Tank,Eco Off ie Full Power with the A/C set at No.2 fan speed and Thermostat on Max Cold. The reason being if the A/C cycles off and depending on the Ambient temps ie 45 degrees as at Greens Lake a few years ago the Honda EU 20 will Not restart the A/C if the Compressor Head Pressures have Not bled off enough which will cause the Generator's Overload Switch to operate (Temps inside on that day were approx 28-31 degrees). Otherwise the Honda's are quite capable of running Most Caravan/Motorhome A/C's from travellers I have spoken with as long as ALL Other 240 volt Devices plugged internally in the Unit are switched off ie Hot Water Systems, Battery Chargers or any other High draw 240 volt Device.
Cheers Kev.
We also have a Dometic B3200 airconspecs are:
FL amps - comp 5.2 / motor 1.6
LR amps - comp 26 / motor 4.4.
Cooling 3.2kw nominal capacity - recommended Gen size 3.5kw BUT it says general guidance. Go figure. Our Honda2.0 runs it ok on full throttle.
Someone with relevant experience could provide advice on above BUT I think FL is running current and LR is start (momentary current).
Cheers Baz
I pretty sure the LR represents Locked Rotor giving the High Amp Readings supplied and FL is Full Load running amps.
Just found this on Google Baz.
R.L. stands for Rated Load, this is somewhat equivalent to the Full Load
rating of a motor (FLA). Compressors are given RLA values since they
are often used at less than the full load rating of the compressor
motor.
L.R. stands for Locked Rotor. This is the amount of current that you
can expect the compressor to draw if the drive motor rotor were locked.
This also provides a reference for the current required to start the
motor.
Cheers Kev.
OK good find Kev thanks.
Hi
The LR current is also around the current the motor will draw at the very instant of startup [ ie 6.2kVA ,]if starting against a head pressure,[load]
or 1.05kVA unloaded
Kev has found that out