last year bought myself a 12v Supercheap Air Comp , reasonable good one and worked okay for awhile:)..Something i thought i should carry on my travels with the van "Just Incase". Getting van ready to head off again and went to inflate tyres to find the Comp continuousley kept blowing the 40amp inlet Fuse !!???..
So many versions of what could be causing the problem sussing the net only added to the confusion..Next day went to Supercheap and bought a swag of extra fuses.
Did some thinking and thought ide try run the comp first prior to attatching it to the tyres and Bingo problem solved and no more popping fuses :), looks like it didnt like the backpressure from the tyres at startup so thought ide upload this for readers who may have been experiencing same problem...
oldtrack123 said
06:43 PM Jan 15, 2016
Papou wrote:
last year bought myself a 12v Supercheap Air Comp , reasonable good one and worked okay for awhile:)..Something i thought i should carry on my travels with the van "Just Incase". Getting van ready to head off again and went to inflate tyres to find the Comp continuousley kept blowing the 40amp inlet Fuse !!???..
So many versions of what could be causing the problem sussing the net only added to the confusion..Next day went to Supercheap and bought a swag of extra fuses.
Did some thinking and thought ide try run the comp first prior to attatching it to the tyres and Bingo problem solved and no more popping fuses :), looks like it didnt like the backpressure from the tyres at startup so thought ide upload this for readers who may have been experiencing same problem...
Hi
Every small 12ry Air compressor should have that as an instruction.
START Compressor BEFORE CONNECTING TO TYRES!!!
Especially If you have high pressure tyres.
PeterQ
PeterD said
08:20 AM Jan 16, 2016
Is not a compressor that blows 40 A fuses on start up (whether or not connected to the tyre) faulty? The fact that it started OK when you first got it tells me it is now faulty. Time to challenge for a replacement.
oldtrack123 said
11:44 AM Jan 16, 2016
PeterD wrote:
Is not a compressor that blows 40 A fuses on start up (whether or not connected to the tyre) faulty? The fact that it started OK when you first got it tells me it is now faulty. Time to challenge for a replacement.
Hi Peter
Yes, it could well be faulty, NOW , from repeated heavy overloads[ stalled motor] from trying to start under FULL loads
rockylizard said
08:04 PM Jan 16, 2016
Gday...
I am interested in the reasons offered for the blowing of the fuse/s.
I have never turned my compressor (12v 120PSI 30amp) on BEFORE attaching the connection to the valve.
I connect my pumps leads to the the battery, place the pump next to the tyre, connect the hose/connector to the valve and then turn on the pump.
It has not had a problem pumping my vehicles 18inch rear tyres from 34PSI to 46PSI without blowing fuses and has been doing so for over seven years.
I would suggest the advice from PeterD that if it worked at first, the fact that it is blowing fuses now quite probably is due to a fault.
Cheers - John
oldtrack123 said
10:09 PM Jan 16, 2016
Hi John
It is just common sense to not start ANY electric motor under full load, if that can be avoided
.
Under those conditions the inrush ,starting, current will be far, far above normal running current, A well recognised FACT!!
Wear factors also come into the equation, but not as a claim under warranty for being fauly
Another factor that could affect starting ability AND fuse blowing, is voltage drop[ low voltage @ the motor],due to bad connections,leading to Insufficient POWER for the motor to get over the compression stroke, stalled motor,with current only limited by winding resistance .
NO BACK EMF generated!!
Possum3 said
11:47 PM Jan 16, 2016
Normally connection of a compressor connector will not initially create pressure within the hose as there is no mechanism to actuate the tyre valve (with the cam lever-lock). Agree with John, Compressor Faulty
KevKim37 said
12:32 AM Jan 17, 2016
I have a 16 yr old Blue Tongue Compressor wired with a Fused 40 amp relay connected to a 20 litre truck air tank and 60 psi pressure switch (60 psi cut in/ 120 psi cut off). Never have a problem with fuses, but I have seen quite a few of the newer cheap type so called Heavy Duty compressors having trouble blowing fuses and melting the built-in switches. This is caused by the combination of Too Smaller wiring gauge, light duty 240 volt type switches(Not Suitable for Heavy DC Current ie 20 to 40 plus amps) and also Fuse Holders Not Capable of Handling the High Current Draw and Heat created in the Smaller type Wedge Fuse Holders.
oldtrack123 said
03:20 PM Jan 17, 2016
KevKim37 wrote:
I have a 16 yr old Blue Tongue Compressor wired with a Fused 40 amp relay connected to a 20 litre truck air tank and 60 psi pressure switch (60 psi cut in/ 120 psi cut off). Never have a problem with fuses, but I have seen quite a few of the newer cheap type so called Heavy Duty compressors having trouble blowing fuses and melting the built-in switches. This is caused by the combination of Too Smaller wiring gauge, light duty 240 volt type switches(Not Suitable for Heavy DC Current ie 20 to 40 plus amps) and also Fuse Holders Not Capable of Handling the High Current Draw and Heat created in the Smaller type Wedge Fuse Holders.
Hi Kevin
Yes, undersized cables or extended cables can lead to starting problems under load,,as can low battery voltage or bad connections
If the motor does not start, the stalled the current is only limited by the circuit resistance, as low as 0.1 of an ohm with larger heavy duty 12V compressors
That is why I STILL say the pump may not be fauity!!
oldtrack123 said
03:31 PM Jan 17, 2016
Possum3 wrote:
Normally connection of a compressor connector will not initially create pressure within the hose as there is no mechanism to actuate the tyre valve (with the cam lever-lock). Agree with John, Compressor Faulty
Hi
Strange ,EVERY 12V compressor I have had & that is many , over many many years ,puts TYRE air pressure back into the hose right up to the compressor,immediately that the pump connector is pushed onto the valve stem.
The Motor has to start under pressure, under those circumstances, very high currents, far above running currents
Are you suggesting that it is AIR pressure from the pump that depresses the tyre valve??
Perhaps you should check that right now???
oldtrack123 said
03:36 PM Jan 17, 2016
Papou wrote:
last year bought myself a 12v Supercheap Air Comp , reasonable good one and worked okay for awhile:)..Something i thought i should carry on my travels with the van "Just Incase". Getting van ready to head off again and went to inflate tyres to find the Comp continuousley kept blowing the 40amp inlet Fuse !!???..
So many versions of what could be causing the problem sussing the net only added to the confusion..Next day went to Supercheap and bought a swag of extra fuses.
Did some thinking and thought ide try run the comp first prior to attatching it to the tyres and Bingo problem solved and no more popping fuses :), looks like it didnt like the backpressure from the tyres at startup so thought ide upload this for readers who may have been experiencing same problem...
Hi
Suggest you check all connections for heat,& check voltage at each connection
Starting at the first in line connection[ plug ]
Kev Pearce said
11:33 AM Jan 21, 2016
Well, I'll be. Just this morning I checked the van's tyres in its shed and had trouble with the 12v compressor. No instructions re starting the compressor first, but did that anyway when the compressor kept cutting out and....bingo!...added a little air to the tyres on the van after the trouble with the spare. Just another reason to get on here and find information you didn't know you needed.
oldtrack123 said
09:45 PM Jan 23, 2016
Kev Pearce wrote:
Well, I'll be. Just this morning I checked the van's tyres in its shed and had trouble with the 12v compressor. No instructions re starting the compressor first, but did that anyway when the compressor kept cutting out and....bingo!...added a little air to the tyres on the van after the trouble with the spare. Just another reason to get on here and find information you didn't know you needed.
Hi Kev
As I said, best to ALWAS DO IT THAT way
It takes a very heavy start current off the switch,varies with motor, but could easily be 10times running current, even worse for the switch when switching OFF ,due to arcing ,plus less load on motor & fuses !!!
last year bought myself a 12v Supercheap Air Comp , reasonable good one and worked okay for awhile:)..Something i thought i should carry on my travels with the van "Just Incase". Getting van ready to head off again and went to inflate tyres to find the Comp continuousley kept blowing the 40amp inlet Fuse !!???..
So many versions of what could be causing the problem sussing the net only added to the confusion..Next day went to Supercheap and bought a swag of extra fuses.
Did some thinking and thought ide try run the comp first prior to attatching it to the tyres and Bingo problem solved and no more popping fuses :), looks like it didnt like the backpressure from the tyres at startup so thought ide upload this for readers who may have been experiencing same problem...
Hi
Every small 12ry Air compressor should have that as an instruction.
START Compressor BEFORE CONNECTING TO TYRES!!!
Especially If you have high pressure tyres.
PeterQ
Hi Peter
Yes, it could well be faulty, NOW , from repeated heavy overloads[ stalled motor] from trying to start under FULL loads
Gday...
I am interested in the reasons offered for the blowing of the fuse/s.
I have never turned my compressor (12v 120PSI 30amp) on BEFORE attaching the connection to the valve.
I connect my pumps leads to the the battery, place the pump next to the tyre, connect the hose/connector to the valve and then turn on the pump.
It has not had a problem pumping my vehicles 18inch rear tyres from 34PSI to 46PSI without blowing fuses and has been doing so for over seven years.
I would suggest the advice from PeterD that if it worked at first, the fact that it is blowing fuses now quite probably is due to a fault.
Cheers - John
Hi John
It is just common sense to not start ANY electric motor under full load, if that can be avoided
.
Under those conditions the inrush ,starting, current will be far, far above normal running current, A well recognised FACT!!
Wear factors also come into the equation, but not as a claim under warranty for being fauly
Another factor that could affect starting ability AND fuse blowing, is voltage drop[ low voltage @ the motor],due to bad connections,leading to Insufficient POWER for the motor to get over the compression stroke, stalled motor,with current only limited by winding resistance .
NO BACK EMF generated!!
Hi Kevin
Yes, undersized cables or extended cables can lead to starting problems under load,,as can low battery voltage or bad connections
If the motor does not start, the stalled the current is only limited by the circuit resistance, as low as 0.1 of an ohm with larger heavy duty 12V compressors
That is why I STILL say the pump may not be fauity!!
Hi
Strange ,EVERY 12V compressor I have had & that is many , over many many years ,puts TYRE air pressure back into the hose right up to the compressor,immediately that the pump connector is pushed onto the valve stem.
The Motor has to start under pressure, under those circumstances, very high currents, far above running currents
Are you suggesting that it is AIR pressure from the pump that depresses the tyre valve??
Perhaps you should check that right now???
Hi
Suggest you check all connections for heat,& check voltage at each connection
Starting at the first in line connection[ plug ]
Well, I'll be. Just this morning I checked the van's tyres in its shed and had trouble with the 12v compressor. No instructions re starting the compressor first, but did that anyway when the compressor kept cutting out and....bingo!...added a little air to the tyres on the van after the trouble with the spare. Just another reason to get on here and find information you didn't know you needed.
Hi Kev
As I said, best to ALWAS DO IT THAT way
It takes a very heavy start current off the switch,varies with motor, but could easily be 10times running current, even worse for the switch when switching OFF ,due to arcing ,plus less load on motor & fuses !!!