As I have said before I have these horrid cracks in the floor of the shower, it seems to me nobody will cover any replacement/repairs so I bit the bullet today and staeted the fibreglass repair. After 20 mins the surrounding floor hasn't softened and there is very little exothermic activity.
Pic shows the first patch after 20 mins.
-- Edited by Phil C on Monday 6th of July 2015 12:48:12 PM
Way beyond my skill set if it were steel I could weld it up no probs
Sorry I'm no help am I
Phil C said
01:11 PM Jul 6, 2015
Thanks Woody, Im not much at composites either, I spoke with an old bloke last week who was a fibreglass expert in his trade.
Asked him about glass on ABS and he said no worries. It seems this is a winner, all we need now is the elephant test when I take a shower in it lol
Cheers
blaze said
02:57 PM Jul 6, 2015
In its raw state like that it is still porus and not water proof, it will need at least 2 coats of flowcote to seal it but you are probale aware of that
cheers
blaze
ps built and repaired a few glass boats
Phil C said
03:11 PM Jul 6, 2015
Thanks blaze, that's bloody good information. As I said I know little about composites. Thank goodness for this forum..
Cheers
johnwf said
04:11 PM Jul 6, 2015
If you do put on some flowcoat. make sure to cover the flowcoat with some tape. Flowcoat normally only hardens in the absence of air, if you watch say a boat being built the flowcaoat is first sprayed onto the mold then the fibreglass, ie no air on flowcoat.
Someone above mentioned that it may be ABS, if that is so you can melt some ABS into acetone to make a thick soup then introduce into the damaged area, when the acetone evaporates you are left with ABS and a joint as strong as the original (in theory). The acetone in the soup should melt the surface of the shower fusing the two together. I have used this method on some scooter panels with successes.
blaze said
05:19 PM Jul 6, 2015
johnwf wrote:
If you do put on some flowcoat. make sure to cover the flowcoat with some tape. Flowcoat normally only hardens in the absence of air, if you watch say a boat being built the flowcaoat is first sprayed onto the mold then the fibreglass, ie no air on flowcoat. Someone above mentioned that it may be ABS, if that is so you can melt some ABS into acetone to make a thick soup then introduce into the damaged area, when the acetone evaporates you are left with ABS and a joint as strong as the original (in theory). The acetone in the soup should melt the surface of the shower fusing the two together. I have used this method on some scooter panels with successes.
Hi John
You have your flowcte and gelcote mixed up, flowcote is applied to exterior of fibaglass, gelcote is applied to a mould and the fibalass is then applied to that to create a finished product
Phil C said
06:15 PM Jul 6, 2015
Confused.. I just bought flowcoat.. do I still need to cover it?
Cheers
blaze said
06:22 PM Jul 6, 2015
yes phil,have you also got the hardener/catalyst to add to flowcote
do a google search
cheers
blaze
Phil C said
06:23 PM Jul 6, 2015
blaze wrote:
yes phil,have you also got the hardener/catalyst to add to flowcote do a google search cheers blaze
Yep, would gladwrap be suitable for the cover?
Phil C said
06:37 PM Jul 6, 2015
johnwf wrote:
If you do put on some flowcoat. make sure to cover the flowcoat with some tape. Flowcoat normally only hardens in the absence of air, if you watch say a boat being built the flowcaoat is first sprayed onto the mold then the fibreglass, ie no air on flowcoat. Someone above mentioned that it may be ABS, if that is so you can melt some ABS into acetone to make a thick soup then introduce into the damaged area, when the acetone evaporates you are left with ABS and a joint as strong as the original (in theory). The acetone in the soup should melt the surface of the shower fusing the two together. I have used this method on some scooter panels with successes.
Cheers jon and welcome to the forum..
The problem with the soup mix of acetone and ABS is that the floor is rather thin and has little support underneath. Im rather hoping the glassing will do the trick as I have extended the mat over a reasonably large area.
Cheers again.
blaze said
06:44 PM Jul 6, 2015
dont cover flowcote
Phil C said
02:42 PM Jul 9, 2015
Just put the last coat of flowcote on the floor. Did a quick elephant walk on the repair last night, to see where the crack will start again and not a problem. I suspect we may have a winner here.
I put 2 layers of fibreglass down and 2 coats of flowcote, so I recon I have this sucker in the bag. The repair has thickened the floor and given it more support, look a bit tacky but we don't live in there so practicality is the order of the day.
Thanks so much for your input guys, I was completely in the dark about flowcote, that is one great product.
Cheers
-- Edited by Phil C on Thursday 9th of July 2015 03:09:03 PM
If that dosnt do the job phil you now have the knowledge to put a complete fibaglass floor in
cheers
baze
Phil C said
07:25 PM Jul 9, 2015
blaze wrote:
If that dosnt do the job phil you now have the knowledge to put a complete fibaglass floor in cheers baze
Yeah, if there is a next time, I will be cutting the complete floor out, packing with marine ply, filling the gaps with plasti bond bog and three layers of fibreglass.. Now if that cracks I will go dirty..
Cheers
Dougwe said
07:42 PM Jul 9, 2015
Hey Phil, it's not what it's cracked up to be ya know.
johnwf said
10:37 PM Jul 9, 2015
Blaze,
Yes, did mix up my gelcoat and flow coat, I will engage brain before typing in future.
John
blaze said
07:25 AM Jul 10, 2015
johnwf wrote:
Blaze,
Yes, did mix up my gelcoat and flow coat, I will engage brain before typing in future. John
yep, stuff happens
cheers
blaze
-- Edited by blaze on Friday 10th of July 2015 07:26:21 AM
Phil C said
11:54 AM Jul 10, 2015
johnwf wrote:
Blaze,
Yes, did mix up my gelcoat and flow coat, I will engage brain before typing in future. John
It doesn't matter John, you tried to help me and that's all that is important, blaze was good enough to correct the situation which I confirmed with the composite people before I started. So many thanks for your input. The number of times I have had to be corrected I have lost count, so don't let it get to you.
BTW welcome to the forum.
Cheers
blaze said
02:35 PM Jul 10, 2015
life is a learning curve, we all learn every day or at least I hope we do. Was told very early in my trade to listen to advice from all sources, doesnt mean you use it but at least listen.
cheers
blaze
Phil C said
02:55 PM Jul 10, 2015
blaze wrote:
life is a learning curve, we all learn every day or at least I hope we do. Was told very early in my trade to listen to advice from all sources, doesnt mean you use it but at least listen. cheers blaze
Yes blaze, that is more than true. When I was teaching I would tell the students that what they learnt at school only made them ready to learn more. It worked to motivate them most times.
Cheers again for your help the work stunk like mad for a while but Im letting it harden some more before we elephant test it before the showers 2morrow.
Cheers
Aus-Kiwi said
11:36 PM Jul 10, 2015
Can it be supported from under ? It sounds like it's flexing ..
Even a strap across the bottom with rubber, plywood to support ..
Phil C said
06:59 PM Jul 11, 2015
Aus-Kiwi wrote:
Can it be supported from under ? It sounds like it's flexing .. Even a strap across the bottom with rubber, plywood to support ..
Thanks AK, that's the problem... getting underneath. Its a sealed unit so the next step (if needed) will be to cut and lift the floor, fully support and glass over the top... The flowcote is the best, so that gets a go next time..
Cheers mate, hope you and yours are well.....
blaze said
07:29 PM Jul 11, 2015
Hi Phil
the flowcote is ONLY to seal the fibaglass and not for any other use. Dont cut the floor out, drill some holes about 200 mm in from the corners ( about 6mm holes and call them entry holes), then drill some 10mm holes on the sides in the corner (call them exit holes). Now get some expander foam and put in the entry holes until it expands out the exit holes. Be VERY careful as expanding foam can do damage if it cant expand freely. Expanding foam will absorb water (if leaks are fixed it shouldnt matter), you can also buy close cell foam used in the construction of boats and wont absorb water but I havnt seen it in pressure pacs, used as flotation.
just some more ideas for you to ponder while danceing on the shower floor
cheers
blaze
Aus-Kiwi said
08:05 PM Jul 11, 2015
Yes as with most structural things .. 10% extra support can make things 100% stronger... I was going to suggest adding foam from underneath ? It seems as explained it has double floor ? Which is where I would go through as asthetally can't see the patch ... Other than showering on boogy board etc ? I guess there's no room for a dancing rail ? Ahaha
-- Edited by Aus-Kiwi on Saturday 11th of July 2015 08:06:38 PM
Phil C said
08:53 PM Jul 11, 2015
Thanks guys, I will talk to the composite mob and see if I can get that foam.
Had a mate contact me on facebook to tell me CIL should cover the repair if it goes again.
It has a double floor with small blocks of wood?? supporting the floor. It flexes like crazy when you step on it. As it is only about 2mm thin it cracks real easy. Really bad design and not built for heavier people..
Cheers
-- Edited by Phil C on Saturday 11th of July 2015 08:57:49 PM
Phil C said
08:58 PM Jul 11, 2015
Dougwe wrote:
Hey Phil, it's not what it's cracked up to be ya know.
hi all.
As I have said before I have these horrid cracks in the floor of the shower, it seems to me nobody will cover any replacement/repairs so I bit the bullet today and staeted the fibreglass repair. After 20 mins the surrounding floor hasn't softened and there is very little exothermic activity.
Pic shows the first patch after 20 mins.
-- Edited by Phil C on Monday 6th of July 2015 12:48:12 PM
Sorry I'm no help am I
Asked him about glass on ABS and he said no worries. It seems this is a winner, all we need now is the elephant test when I take a shower in it lol
Cheers
cheers
blaze
ps built and repaired a few glass boats
Cheers
Someone above mentioned that it may be ABS, if that is so you can melt some ABS into acetone to make a thick soup then introduce into the damaged area, when the acetone evaporates you are left with ABS and a joint as strong as the original (in theory). The acetone in the soup should melt the surface of the shower fusing the two together. I have used this method on some scooter panels with successes.
Hi John
You have your flowcte and gelcote mixed up, flowcote is applied to exterior of fibaglass, gelcote is applied to a mould and the fibalass is then applied to that to create a finished product
Cheers
do a google search
cheers
blaze
Yep, would gladwrap be suitable for the cover?
Cheers jon and welcome to the forum..
The problem with the soup mix of acetone and ABS is that the floor is rather thin and has little support underneath. Im rather hoping the glassing will do the trick as I have extended the mat over a reasonably large area.
Cheers again.
Just put the last coat of flowcote on the floor. Did a quick elephant walk on the repair last night, to see where the crack will start again and not a problem. I suspect we may have a winner here.
I put 2 layers of fibreglass down and 2 coats of flowcote, so I recon I have this sucker in the bag. The repair has thickened the floor and given it more support, look a bit tacky but we don't live in there so practicality is the order of the day.
Thanks so much for your input guys, I was completely in the dark about flowcote, that is one great product.
Cheers
-- Edited by Phil C on Thursday 9th of July 2015 03:09:03 PM
cheers
baze
Yeah, if there is a next time, I will be cutting the complete floor out, packing with marine ply, filling the gaps with plasti bond bog and three layers of fibreglass.. Now if that cracks I will go dirty..
Cheers
Yes, did mix up my gelcoat and flow coat, I will engage brain before typing in future.
John
yep, stuff happens
cheers
blaze
-- Edited by blaze on Friday 10th of July 2015 07:26:21 AM
It doesn't matter John, you tried to help me and that's all that is important, blaze was good enough to correct the situation which I confirmed with the composite people before I started. So many thanks for your input. The number of times I have had to be corrected I have lost count, so don't let it get to you.
BTW welcome to the forum.
Cheers
cheers
blaze
Yes blaze, that is more than true. When I was teaching I would tell the students that what they learnt at school only made them ready to learn more. It worked to motivate them most times.
Cheers again for your help the work stunk like mad for a while but Im letting it harden some more before we elephant test it before the showers 2morrow.
Cheers
Even a strap across the bottom with rubber, plywood to support ..
Thanks AK, that's the problem... getting underneath. Its a sealed unit so the next step (if needed) will be to cut and lift the floor, fully support and glass over the top... The flowcote is the best, so that gets a go next time..
Cheers mate, hope you and yours are well.....
the flowcote is ONLY to seal the fibaglass and not for any other use. Dont cut the floor out, drill some holes about 200 mm in from the corners ( about 6mm holes and call them entry holes), then drill some 10mm holes on the sides in the corner (call them exit holes). Now get some expander foam and put in the entry holes until it expands out the exit holes. Be VERY careful as expanding foam can do damage if it cant expand freely. Expanding foam will absorb water (if leaks are fixed it shouldnt matter), you can also buy close cell foam used in the construction of boats and wont absorb water but I havnt seen it in pressure pacs, used as flotation.
just some more ideas for you to ponder while danceing on the shower floor
cheers
blaze
Yes as with most structural things .. 10% extra support can make things 100% stronger...
I was going to suggest adding foam from underneath ?
It seems as explained it has double floor ? Which is where I would go through as asthetally can't see the patch ...
Other than showering on boogy board etc ? I guess there's no room for a dancing rail ? Ahaha
-- Edited by Aus-Kiwi on Saturday 11th of July 2015 08:06:38 PM
Thanks guys, I will talk to the composite mob and see if I can get that foam.
Had a mate contact me on facebook to tell me CIL should cover the repair if it goes again.
It has a double floor with small blocks of wood?? supporting the floor. It flexes like crazy when you step on it. As it is only about 2mm thin it cracks real easy. Really bad design and not built for heavier people..
Cheers
-- Edited by Phil C on Saturday 11th of July 2015 08:57:49 PM
Yeah, but it sure gets up my crack...
Selley's No More Big Gaps is a closed cell foam.
Thanks troopy, I will look into that.