I am in need of some technical support for this project.
I am running an "Eva-Kool" 12v / 240 v fridge in my tug, and run it from a cigarette socket whilst mobile.
When I get to a Park for the night I un-plug the 12 volt, connect the transformer and plug into the 240 volt.
Morning comes, I reverse the process, and hit the road.
I am wanting to know how, with diagrams if possible, to wire it all up to a "switch", which would allow me to simply change from 12 to 240 volt, and back again.
Failing this approach, can you suggest an even simpler method.
Finally, what is the best way to get 240 into my vehicle without crushing the lead in a door?
Cheers, and many thanks for your anticipated advice. KB
grahamg said
05:14 PM Jul 1, 2015
Not sure if it would be possible to do, I think the voltage from the transformer is 24v and plugs into the same physical socket as the 12v from the cigarette socket.
With Engel fridges it is possible t have the 12v and 240 plugged in at the same time and the fridge selects the 240v if available.
keiron said
05:26 PM Jul 1, 2015
Thanks Graham.
What I am thinking is using a double pole double throw switch (15amp) switch.
If I run the output from the transformer into one side of the switch and the output from the cigarette lighter socket into the other side of the switch, I would the be able to select either output to supply the fridge.
Does this sense, or is it overly simplistic??
Thanks, KB
greyhoundtom said
07:30 PM Jul 1, 2015
Sorry to stick my nose in here and as readers of my posts would have gathered from my naive questions I have very little expertise in these maters.
However the first idea that popped into my head when I read the question asked, was to simply leave the fridge plugged into the tug battery. To then both ensure that the tug battery is always fully charged regardless of the circumstances as well as keeping the fridge running, to permanently wire up up a battery charger to the tug battery under the bonnet and then plug that into any available 240 power supply overnight.
Yes I know stupid idea but sometimes I just can't help myself particularly when I've had a nice drop of port after dinner. Lol
Cheers, Tom
Aus-Kiwi said
08:57 PM Jul 1, 2015
Do you have a battery charger ? I leave mine on 12v ( house batteries) then when I hook up 240v. The battery charger takes care of business .. I extended the 12v lead using heavier wire so fridge can be moved .. Much safer than playing with 240..
-- Edited by Aus-Kiwi on Wednesday 1st of July 2015 08:58:34 PM
oldtrack123 said
09:46 PM Jul 1, 2015
keiron wrote:
I am in need of some technical support for this project.
I am running an "Eva-Kool" 12v / 240 v fridge in my tug, and run it from a cigarette socket whilst mobile.
When I get to a Park for the night I un-plug the 12 volt, connect the transformer and plug into the 240 volt.
Morning comes, I reverse the process, and hit the road.
I am wanting to know how, with diagrams if possible, to wire it all up to a "switch", which would allow me to simply change from 12 to 240 volt, and back again.
Failing this approach, can you suggest an even simpler method.
Finally, what is the best way to get 240 into my vehicle without crushing the lead in a door?
Cheers, and many thanks for your anticipated advice. KB
Hi
I can only say ONE thing
Do not play around with ANY 240V wiring.
It is proscibed electrical work ONLY to be carried out by licensed electricians
ALL Shall be carried out in acoordance with the ELECTRICAL Standards
Severe penalalties can be applied to ANY non licensed person doing such work
PeterQ
oldtrack123 said
09:55 PM Jul 1, 2015
greyhoundtom wrote:
Sorry to stick my nose in here and as readers of my posts would have gathered from my naive questions I have very little expertise in these maters.
However the first idea that popped into my head when I read the question asked, was to simply leave the fridge plugged into the tug battery. To then both ensure that the tug battery is always fully charged regardless of the circumstances as well as keeping the fridge running, to permanently wire up up a battery charger to the tug battery under the bonnet and then plug that into any available 240 power supply overnight.
Yes I know stupid idea but sometimes I just can't help myself particularly when I've had a nice drop of port after dinner. Lol
Cheers, Tom
HI Tom
In no way a stupid idea
In fact a very safe way to do it
NO PLAYING around with 240 V[ILLEGALLY] & mixing voltages on the same switch
No 240V leads going through doors or windowswhere they are very likely to get damaged & liven up the WHOLE vehicle !!
PeterQ
oldtrack123 said
10:02 PM Jul 1, 2015
grahamg wrote:
Not sure if it would be possible to do, I think the voltage from the transformer is 24v and plugs into the same physical socket as the 12v from the cigarette socket. With Engel fridges it is possible t have the 12v and 240 plugged in at the same time and the fridge selects the 240v if available.
The change over is done internally in the fridge!
THe method has been APPROVED as part of the overall approval processfor that model
If the fridge is changed from how it was APPROVED it is NO LONGER APPROVED.
Only APPROVED appliances/ SHALL BE USED!
Do NOT DIY modify any such equipment OR wiring
Especially if your knowledge is so limited that you have to ask!
Connect the cigarette lighter output (CIG+/CIG-) to the normally closed terminals (ie those that are on when the relay coil is not energised).
Connect the adapter output (DC+/DC-) to the normally open terminals, and power the relay coil from the same source. This will ensure that the relay automatically switches over to the adapter whenever 240V is present. You would also need a 1A diode for back-EMF protection. An additional fuse would provide reverse polarity protection in case the wrong adapter were used.
Ideally the cigarette lighter output should only be active when the engine is running (not cranking), so the refrigerator would not be draining the battery when the alternator is not charging it.
The above setup will ensure that you never need to disconnect anything, and the AC/DC switchover will be automatic.
Edit: The OP could add a 1K resistor and LED across the relay coil to indicate when the refrigerator is running off 240V.
-- Edited by dorian on Friday 3rd of July 2015 04:33:59 AM
grahamg said
05:39 PM Jul 2, 2015
thanks for your concern oldtrack123, I have no concern for the engel fridge is it designed this way.
oldtrack123 said
07:47 PM Jul 2, 2015
grahamg wrote:
thanks for your concern oldtrack123, I have no concern for the engel fridge is it designed this way.
HI Graham
I have NO concerns with your set up perhaps you misunderstood my post Yes, Engels do have that as an automatic energy source selection[INBUILT}
Have done for something like 30plus years
PeterQ
keiron said
10:36 AM Jul 3, 2015
Thank you Dorian for your direction, which is the way I will proceed.
Before I do, please tell me where to place the fuse, (I suspect in line on the "+" side of the input??), and where to locate the diode.
Armed with this last piece of info, I will be off to Jaycar, and proceed.
Many thanks again. KB
03_Troopy said
10:49 AM Jul 3, 2015
The fuse shown in dorians diagram is in the relay coil pos wire, and the diode is reverse polarity across the coil, to protect the coil supply circuit from voltage spikes caused by the back EMF of the relay coil when voltage is removed from the coil.
You can get relays with suppression diodes (or resistors) internally fitted.
-- Edited by 03_Troopy on Friday 3rd of July 2015 10:51:33 AM
Baz421 said
11:36 PM Jul 3, 2015
Mobitronics have a AC/DC rectifier available. I have 2 (both used for years 1 for 12 years and one for 8 years) for use in van for 12v fridge and for Waeco 18l portable fridge.
Plug and play. IF plugged into 240v you use that supply and if it fails or you change manually you use 12V DC.
Mobitronics have a AC/DC rectifier available. I have 2 (both used for years 1 for 12 years and one for 8 years) for use in van for 12v fridge and for Waeco 18l portable fridge.
Plug and play. IF plugged into 240v you use that supply and if it fails or you change manually you use 12V DC.
So simple.
I notice that the MPS-50A has a 6A continuous rating. Is that enough? Plus it costs a bit more than a switch ($170).
You need to check the DC voltage from the Eva-kool power pack. The one I have seen puts out 24V. (it is written on the transformer) Depending on the relay you get you may need to active the relay via the CIG output. (12V)
Baz421 said
09:52 AM Jul 5, 2015
dorian wrote:
Baz421 wrote:
Mobitronics have a AC/DC rectifier available. I have 2 (both used for years 1 for 12 years and one for 8 years) for use in van for 12v fridge and for Waeco 18l portable fridge.
Plug and play. IF plugged into 240v you use that supply and if it fails or you change manually you use 12V DC.
So simple.
I notice that the MPS-50A has a 6A continuous rating. Is that enough? Plus it costs a bit more than a switch ($170).
Never had a problem with current ie overload on either.
Costs ye,s but if hardwired (options are cig lighter output OR hardwired and we use one of each) nothing to do but turn on 240V switch which I think was the OP question ie keep it simple.
03_Troopy said
10:58 AM Jul 5, 2015
Baz421 wrote:
dorian wrote:
Baz421 wrote:
Mobitronics have a AC/DC rectifier available. I have 2 (both used for years 1 for 12 years and one for 8 years) for use in van for 12v fridge and for Waeco 18l portable fridge.
Plug and play. IF plugged into 240v you use that supply and if it fails or you change manually you use 12V DC.
So simple.
I notice that the MPS-50A has a 6A continuous rating. Is that enough? Plus it costs a bit more than a switch ($170).
Never had a problem with current ie overload on either.
Costs ye,s but if hardwired (options are cig lighter output OR hardwired and we use one of each) nothing to do but turn on 240V switch which I think was the OP question ie keep it simple.
Disregard my post.. seems I was referring to a different thread.
-- Edited by 03_Troopy on Sunday 5th of July 2015 11:04:26 AM
I am in need of some technical support for this project.
I am running an "Eva-Kool" 12v / 240 v fridge in my tug, and run it from a cigarette socket whilst mobile.
When I get to a Park for the night I un-plug the 12 volt, connect the transformer and plug into the 240 volt.
Morning comes, I reverse the process, and hit the road.
I am wanting to know how, with diagrams if possible, to wire it all up to a "switch", which would allow me to simply change from 12 to 240 volt, and back again.
Failing this approach, can you suggest an even simpler method.
Finally, what is the best way to get 240 into my vehicle without crushing the lead in a door?
Cheers, and many thanks for your anticipated advice. KB
With Engel fridges it is possible t have the 12v and 240 plugged in at the same time and the fridge selects the 240v if available.
Thanks Graham.
What I am thinking is using a double pole double throw switch (15amp) switch.
If I run the output from the transformer into one side of the switch and the output from the cigarette lighter socket into the other side of the switch, I would the be able to select either output to supply the fridge.
Does this sense, or is it overly simplistic??
Thanks, KB
Sorry to stick my nose in here and as readers of my posts would have gathered from my naive questions I have very little expertise in these maters.
However the first idea that popped into my head when I read the question asked, was to simply leave the fridge plugged into the tug battery. To then both ensure that the tug battery is always fully charged regardless of the circumstances as well as keeping the fridge running, to permanently wire up up a battery charger to the tug battery under the bonnet and then plug that into any available 240 power supply overnight.
Yes I know stupid idea but sometimes I just can't help myself particularly when I've had a nice drop of port after dinner. Lol
Cheers, Tom
Do you have a battery charger ? I leave mine on 12v ( house batteries) then when I hook up 240v. The battery charger takes care of business .. I extended the 12v lead using heavier wire so fridge can be moved .. Much safer than playing with 240..
-- Edited by Aus-Kiwi on Wednesday 1st of July 2015 08:58:34 PM
Hi
I can only say ONE thing
Do not play around with ANY 240V wiring.
It is proscibed electrical work ONLY to be carried out by licensed electricians
ALL Shall be carried out in acoordance with the ELECTRICAL Standards
Severe penalalties can be applied to ANY non licensed person doing such work
PeterQ
HI Tom
In no way a stupid idea
In fact a very safe way to do it
NO PLAYING around with 240 V[ILLEGALLY] & mixing voltages on the same switch
No 240V leads going through doors or windowswhere they are very likely to get damaged & liven up the WHOLE vehicle !!
PeterQ
The change over is done internally in the fridge!
THe method has been APPROVED as part of the overall approval processfor that model
If the fridge is changed from how it was APPROVED it is NO LONGER APPROVED.
Only APPROVED appliances/ SHALL BE USED!
Do NOT DIY modify any such equipment OR wiring
Especially if your knowledge is so limited that you have to ask!
PeterQ
See http://www.australiandirect.com.au/assets/files/FMguide.pdf
AFAICT, the "transformer" the OP is referring to is in fact an AC-to-DC adapter, so the usual cautions/lectures are misplaced.
In fact the idea of a DPDT (15amp) switch is not too bad, although I expect that the switch may not last too long. Instead I would use a DPDT relay.
_ | | | o | ( 1A fuse | ) | o | | | |___ | | )|| 1N4001 | V )|| Relay diode | - )|| coil | |___)|| | | DC+ o-)-+--o | __--o-----o V+ CIG+ o-)----o | to refrigerator DC- o-+----o __--o-----o V- CIG- o------o DPDT relay contacts (relay not energised)Connect the cigarette lighter output (CIG+/CIG-) to the normally closed terminals (ie those that are on when the relay coil is not energised).
Connect the adapter output (DC+/DC-) to the normally open terminals, and power the relay coil from the same source. This will ensure that the relay automatically switches over to the adapter whenever 240V is present. You would also need a 1A diode for back-EMF protection. An additional fuse would provide reverse polarity protection in case the wrong adapter were used.
Ideally the cigarette lighter output should only be active when the engine is running (not cranking), so the refrigerator would not be draining the battery when the alternator is not charging it.
The above setup will ensure that you never need to disconnect anything, and the AC/DC switchover will be automatic.
Edit: The OP could add a 1K resistor and LED across the relay coil to indicate when the refrigerator is running off 240V.
-- Edited by dorian on Friday 3rd of July 2015 04:33:59 AM
HI Graham
I have NO concerns with your set up perhaps you misunderstood my post
Yes, Engels do have that as an automatic energy source selection[INBUILT}
Have done for something like 30plus years
PeterQ
Thank you Dorian for your direction, which is the way I will proceed.
Before I do, please tell me where to place the fuse, (I suspect in line on the "+" side of the input??), and where to locate the diode.
Armed with this last piece of info, I will be off to Jaycar, and proceed.
Many thanks again. KB
The fuse shown in dorians diagram is in the relay coil pos wire, and the diode is reverse polarity across the coil, to protect the coil supply circuit from voltage spikes caused by the back EMF of the relay coil when voltage is removed from the coil.
You can get relays with suppression diodes (or resistors) internally fitted.
-- Edited by 03_Troopy on Friday 3rd of July 2015 10:51:33 AM
Mobitronics have a AC/DC rectifier available. I have 2 (both used for years 1 for 12 years and one for 8 years) for use in van for 12v fridge and for Waeco 18l portable fridge.
Plug and play. IF plugged into 240v you use that supply and if it fails or you change manually you use 12V DC.
So simple.
I notice that the MPS-50A has a 6A continuous rating. Is that enough? Plus it costs a bit more than a switch ($170).
https://www.getawaeco.com.au/files/Manual_Coolpower_MPS_50A.pdf
Never had a problem with current ie overload on either.
Costs ye,s but if hardwired (options are cig lighter output OR hardwired and we use one of each) nothing to do but turn on 240V switch which I think was the OP question ie keep it simple.
Disregard my post.. seems I was referring to a different thread.
-- Edited by 03_Troopy on Sunday 5th of July 2015 11:04:26 AM