1. There should be no 12 V connection between the Setec and the fridge.
2. You seem to have 12 V loads coming from both the solar controller and the Setec. I would be inclined to ignore the load terminals on the solar controller (unless the controller is one of those that is used to switch timed lighting. In that case use the timer for the lights only.) You already have the vans load supplied via fuses on the Setec, changing that would require a lot of rewiring.
The rest is fairly correct.
Gundog said
02:27 PM Jun 27, 2015
PeterD wrote:
1. There should be no 12 V connection between the Setec and the fridge.
2. You seem to have 12 V loads coming from both the solar controller and the Setec. I would be inclined to ignore the load terminals on the solar controller (unless the controller is one of those that is used to switch timed lighting. In that case use the timer for the lights only.) You already have the vans load supplied via fuses on the Setec, changing that would require a lot of rewiring.
The rest is fairly correct.
Ok Circuit modified.
What do you suggest for total solar panel input, actual sizes may vary to fit available space on roof, I want all panels as close to one another to reduce cable runs and leave maximum roof space for future expansion.
What size controller and battery charger do you suggest I was considering an Arkpack ACDC7 as it is AC-DC & DC-DC.
I have thought of adding a fridge switch between the Anderson Plug and the fridge along with removing the power from the trailer plug and splice that into the Anderson plug feed, leaving the trailer plug to service trailer functions.
Hi Gundog - A couple of suggestions that may be of use ( or maybe not )
Before doing anything re solar, see if you can get a reasonable idea of your daily 12v consumption - there are some good spreadsheets available - some more complete / complex that others. as little point in installing more battery & solar than is going to cover your expected usage with a realistic margin for dull days ( or have a fall back facility with a generator )
The way I initially looked at solar for us, was controlled by two basic facts, space that was available on the van roof and an idea as to our 12v consumption. Along the way I decided that I would use the Ctek D250S controller as that unit was also capable of accepting & controlling tug input - the D250S has / had an input limit of 20A - so that saw the original 2 x 200W solar panels shrink to 2 x 140W.
I have installed the panels so that each panel has separate wiring ( 6mm Auto dual core - 4.59mm Sq of copper ) up to where the D250S is connected - My reasoning being that should one panel stop then hopefully the other would still have input. & it would be an easy task to isolate the dodgy panel.
SIL is a sparky, so I had him remove ALL 12v connection from the Setek ( Jayco ) transformer / distribution - the Setek still operates the 240V power points ONLY.
The fridge is gas / 240v as normal with 12V from the Tug to a Fridge Rite cut off - the cabling has a branch to the Ctek controller - all 6B&S. No van battery supply is available to the frif=dge.
LAst winter we were away for about 100 days with 90 odd days off mains power - using then 1 x 120Ah AGM, with a 600W generator for the washing machine and in case supply 240V to a 40AH charger - not used at all - we have a 12V LED TV, little use as mainly out of range, CPAP 12V ( no humidifier ), Webasco diesel heater fairly often, all LED lighting, we were probably a bit lucky in that we had only about 2 days of heavy cloud....
This year, I have added a second 120Ah AGM - no other electrical changes as we were thinking for going South this winter but that has not happened .. Oh well hopefully next year for that trip.
This is the way we set up - many other ways, just try and suit yourself and enjoy the outcome. We did not "conserve" battery power at any stage, the lowest pre dawn reading was in the 12.7V range from memory.
Travel well
Regards
UPO - Richard
Gundog said
11:08 AM Jul 4, 2015
Thanks for your response Richard
I'm in a bit of quandary I need to replace the current 100AH Gel Battery in the Van I wont hold much more that 10 volts, I was planning to replace it with a lithium 100AH, But it is necessary to replace the battery by next week, I can source a 220AH AGM for $360 or a 100AH AGM for $200, considering the Setec cannot handle anything greater than 100AH and is not suitable for Lithium.
So I'm considering buying an ARK AC-DC DC-DC charger which is compatible with lithium, eventually moving the new battery in the tug when lithium becomes available.
As for power needed I have no real idea, currently half the lighting in 12v the rest are 240, the 240v TV is heading for the bin as soon as I can source a suitable 12v replacement, I can get a reasonable deal on 3 80w 12v panels, which will fit comfortably down the left side of the Van, I like your idea of wiring the panels .
dogbox said
10:39 AM Jul 5, 2015
Gundog wrote:
PeterD wrote:
1. There should be no 12 V connection between the Setec and the fridge.
2. You seem to have 12 V loads coming from both the solar controller and the Setec. I would be inclined to ignore the load terminals on the solar controller (unless the controller is one of those that is used to switch timed lighting. In that case use the timer for the lights only.) You already have the vans load supplied via fuses on the Setec, changing that would require a lot of rewiring.
The rest is fairly correct.
Ok Circuit modified.
What do you suggest for total solar panel input, actual sizes may vary to fit available space on roof, I want all panels as close to one another to reduce cable runs and leave maximum roof space for future expansion.
What size controller and battery charger do you suggest I was considering an Arkpack ACDC7 as it is AC-DC & DC-DC.
I have thought of adding a fridge switch between the Anderson Plug and the fridge along with removing the power from the trailer plug and splice that into the Anderson plug feed, leaving the trailer plug to service trailer functions.
I have been asking if this set up is possible to run the Anderson plug off the second battery in the tray to run a compressor fridge in tray an supplement the compressor fridge in the van an this schematic seem to be what I was after it might help explain what im after as I seems to hard to explain to the people who should be able to understand my jibberist
-- Edited by dogbox on Sunday 5th of July 2015 10:40:56 AM
dogbox said
01:27 PM Jul 5, 2015
would the above layout be the equivalent of 300ah battery system if left hooked up all the time
would the ute battery get any charge from the van solar or only from the vehicle when running
The new additions will be 3 solar panels, solar controller, battery charger and 2nd battery.
Considering the limitation of the Setec controller, are my thought processes correct, however where is load from solar controller connected ?
1. There should be no 12 V connection between the Setec and the fridge.
2. You seem to have 12 V loads coming from both the solar controller and the Setec. I would be inclined to ignore the load terminals on the solar controller (unless the controller is one of those that is used to switch timed lighting. In that case use the timer for the lights only.) You already have the vans load supplied via fuses on the Setec, changing that would require a lot of rewiring.
The rest is fairly correct.
Ok Circuit modified.
What do you suggest for total solar panel input, actual sizes may vary to fit available space on roof, I want all panels as close to one another to reduce cable runs and leave maximum roof space for future expansion.
What size controller and battery charger do you suggest I was considering an Arkpack ACDC7 as it is AC-DC & DC-DC.
I have thought of adding a fridge switch between the Anderson Plug and the fridge along with removing the power from the trailer plug and splice that into the Anderson plug feed, leaving the trailer plug to service trailer functions.
Hi Gundog - A couple of suggestions that may be of use ( or maybe not )
Before doing anything re solar, see if you can get a reasonable idea of your daily 12v consumption - there are some good spreadsheets available - some more complete / complex that others. as little point in installing more battery & solar than is going to cover your expected usage with a realistic margin for dull days ( or have a fall back facility with a generator )
The way I initially looked at solar for us, was controlled by two basic facts, space that was available on the van roof and an idea as to our 12v consumption. Along the way I decided that I would use the Ctek D250S controller as that unit was also capable of accepting & controlling tug input - the D250S has / had an input limit of 20A - so that saw the original 2 x 200W solar panels shrink to 2 x 140W.
I have installed the panels so that each panel has separate wiring ( 6mm Auto dual core - 4.59mm Sq of copper ) up to where the D250S is connected - My reasoning being that should one panel stop then hopefully the other would still have input. & it would be an easy task to isolate the dodgy panel.
SIL is a sparky, so I had him remove ALL 12v connection from the Setek ( Jayco ) transformer / distribution - the Setek still operates the 240V power points ONLY.
The fridge is gas / 240v as normal with 12V from the Tug to a Fridge Rite cut off - the cabling has a branch to the Ctek controller - all 6B&S. No van battery supply is available to the frif=dge.
LAst winter we were away for about 100 days with 90 odd days off mains power - using then 1 x 120Ah AGM, with a 600W generator for the washing machine and in case supply 240V to a 40AH charger - not used at all - we have a 12V LED TV, little use as mainly out of range, CPAP 12V ( no humidifier ), Webasco diesel heater fairly often, all LED lighting, we were probably a bit lucky in that we had only about 2 days of heavy cloud....
This year, I have added a second 120Ah AGM - no other electrical changes as we were thinking for going South this winter but that has not happened .. Oh well hopefully next year for that trip.
This is the way we set up - many other ways, just try and suit yourself and enjoy the outcome. We did not "conserve" battery power at any stage, the lowest pre dawn reading was in the 12.7V range from memory.
Travel well
Regards
UPO - Richard
I'm in a bit of quandary I need to replace the current 100AH Gel Battery in the Van I wont hold much more that 10 volts, I was planning to replace it with a lithium 100AH, But it is necessary to replace the battery by next week, I can source a 220AH AGM for $360 or a 100AH AGM for $200, considering the Setec cannot handle anything greater than 100AH and is not suitable for Lithium.
So I'm considering buying an ARK AC-DC DC-DC charger which is compatible with lithium, eventually moving the new battery in the tug when lithium becomes available.
As for power needed I have no real idea, currently half the lighting in 12v the rest are 240, the 240v TV is heading for the bin as soon as I can source a suitable 12v replacement, I can get a reasonable deal on 3 80w 12v panels, which will fit comfortably down the left side of the Van, I like your idea of wiring the panels .
I have been asking if this set up is possible to run the Anderson plug off the second battery in the tray to run a compressor fridge in tray an supplement the compressor fridge in the van an this schematic seem to be what I was after it might help explain what im after as I seems to hard to explain to the people who should be able to understand my jibberist
-- Edited by dogbox on Sunday 5th of July 2015 10:40:56 AM
would the ute battery get any charge from the van solar or only from the vehicle when running