Hi, Does anybody know why if oils don't have a use by date why do Mazda say that you have to change the oil every twelve months ( BT50) regardless of Klm's or it will void the warranty. I said at this rate you will be doing the 80,000 Klm service when the car hasn't done 40,000 Klm .Their answer ... Yes that's possible. I have only done 2,000 Klm ( had to go back to work)in the last twelve months yet they are saying that I have to have a full 10,000 Klm service as the oil goes off. I've spoken to oil suppliers and they say oil (synthetic) doesn't go off if not used but won't put it in writing To use against Mazda. I know oil is cheap but $600.00 plus is dear motoring If you don't use it.
oldtrack123 said
08:37 PM Apr 24, 2015
Hi
It is standard procedure, & has been for many many years, with ALL auto makers, to change ENGINE oil at a set mileage intervals or Time periods which ever is the sooner
Servicing, as detailed in the manual is a requirement of the warranty!!
PeterQ
-- Edited by oldtrack123 on Friday 24th of April 2015 08:38:52 PM
Baz421 said
09:04 PM Apr 24, 2015
Time based servicing is "generally" a means to part you and your money, however engine oil does need to be changed due to contaminants from the combustion process.
I've run fleets using both time and miles and very often time is a waste of money BUT can lead to under servicing (for high mileage vehicles obviously).
Serious organisations determine their servicing requirements based on Spectrometric Oil Analysis Program (SOAP) testing (including for engine/gearbox and diff oils) and this can vary considerably for many reasons including different drivers, how they drive and whether long or short trips. Even in fleets one identical vehicle can differ from others, hence the companies work out a "Mean Time Between Failure" and service schedules are determined accordingly, to take action before a component/part fails. The aircraft industry also follow this practice.
So presumably if Mazda are not just grabbing your cash, they have based their servicing on research.
hako said
09:19 PM Apr 24, 2015
If it voids your warranty you have no choice, but if it's out of warranty I personally would double the change period. Oil gets contaminated from use...not time.
rockylizard said
09:47 PM Apr 24, 2015
Gday...
On the other hand ... generally speaking -
an engine that does short, infrequent trips needs to have the oil changed on a "time" basis more critically.
A motor that travels longer distances of longer duration needs to be changed by distance travelled.
e.g. - A vehicle with service intervals set by manufacturer at 15,000km or 12 months;
5,000km over twelve months of short duration, city driving should have oil changed at end of that twelve months. (Although, the service book may consider that usage as 'adverse' conditions (like towing) and should be changed at six months. I know I would be changing the oil at six months rather than waiting until twelve months).
15,000km over six months of longer duration trips, highway driving would need to be changed at the 15,000km even though it was only six months.
There is no hard and fast "rule" for oil change/oil filter change for engine longevity. However, for the duration of the warranty period of the vehicle it is prudent to at least adhere to the manufacturer's recommended service intervals.
Cheers - John
DeBe said
11:06 AM Apr 25, 2015
You could save a lot of money by changing just the oil & filter yourself, if out of warranty. Bearing in mind if its the 5cyl diesel don't take too long to do the filter & oil change. As it wont pick the oil up on starting. The cure for that is remove the oil pressure switch & pressure feed oil in to the oil gallery.
jade46 said
12:21 PM Apr 25, 2015
DeBe wrote:
You could save a lot of money by changing just the oil & filter yourself, if out of warranty. Bearing in mind if its the 5cyl diesel don't take too long to do the filter & oil change. As it wont pick the oil up on starting. The cure for that is remove the oil pressure switch & pressure feed oil in to the oil gallery.
Could you "please explain" If I take half hour to pour new oil in the engine won't pick it up ? Is that what your saying?
I think all the right advice has been given, regular oil and filter changes are vital to long engine life, due to contamination, as discussed, which becomes corrosive, if left in there for too long.
Oils are pretty good these days, but still get contaminated, best to follow manufacturers recommendations.
I do an oil change between manufacturers recommendations, much cheaper to buy the oil and filter yourself, and do it, or get a local guy to do it, just use the dealer for scheduled services, or a local service guy who can do it if it doesn't void the warranty.
turbopete said
08:47 AM Apr 26, 2015
what about only changing the filter every 5000,would that keep the oil cleaner ... Peter
deverall11 said
11:59 AM Apr 26, 2015
Bevandy2 wrote:
I think all the right advice has been given, regular oil and filter changes are vital to long engine life, due to contamination, as discussed, which becomes corrosive, if left in there for too long. Oils are pretty good these days, but still get contaminated, best to follow manufacturers recommendations.
I do an oil change between manufacturers recommendations, much cheaper to buy the oil and filter yourself, and do it, or get a local guy to do it, just use the dealer for scheduled services, or a local service guy who can do it if it doesn't void the warranty.
Don't forget there is an element of pollution. This is also why the need for regular oil changes.
Larry
Hey Jim said
04:24 PM Apr 26, 2015
Hi Sti,
Yes oil contamination does occorr regardless of how many k's you log up.The oil is the life blood of your motor .(Just Remember That) to lubricate the internal moving parts of your engine. Cylinder lineings valves ,bearings ect.When combustion occorrs very very small amounts of fue l/ carbon gets removed into the crankcase which starts to break down the oils original qualities. The carbon will thicken the contaminated sump oil that is moved around the motor by the oil pump running off the crankcase on a worm drive.The faster the motor rev's / spins the faster the pump moves the oil around the motor.
The longer the oil remains in the motor, the carbon is allways accumulating over time. the carbon is what causers premeture engine ware. Does this make sence to you.
I am a beilever in changing both the oil and oil filter every 5000km on time, especially when toeing the van / boat. Oil and filters are cheap compaired to a total motor rebuild or replacement tug.
My last car a Toyota prado V6 petrol was fifteen years old.I clocked up 455,000 km on it with over half while towing.I had changed the oil /filter every 5000km transmission every 20,000km with receipts for the materials brought.It took five minutes to sell it and I do the same with this one.
Regards Hey Jim
KevKim37 said
05:04 PM Apr 26, 2015
All vehicles have a kilometre/time interval for a reason as others have mentioned, so if unsure go to Repco, Castrol or Hastings Deering agents where you can purchase
Oil Test Kits which can give accurate results for Oil Degradation, Contamination, etc.
I have used these from Hastings Deering over the last 12 years to ascertaining Engine Wear Characteristics and Oil Change Intervals as I had a Diesel/Gas System fitted on our last
vehicle and was interested to know this information for the reasons listed above.
Cheers Kev.
hako said
06:21 PM Apr 26, 2015
Pollution, carbon deposits, acid deposits etc are caused by driving the car. If the car is only driven for 1000km a year then it will only pollute/carbonup/acid etc the oil to the tune of 1000KM......drive the car 5000km and multiply the pollute/carbon/acid etc by 5X. Oil sitting in a sump cannot be contaminated - the engine must operate for contamination to occur. Think about it.
I've seen cars that never have their oil changed, however this is only on older cars that are well out of warranty. Of all the engine failures I've been privy to most have failed by overheating, timing belt failure or pushing the car beyond normal limits e.g. a red P plater.
My opinions only!
DeBe said
06:53 PM Apr 26, 2015
I have seen engines ive striped down to rebuild with badly clogged oil gallerys. These were owned by people who rarely got there vehicles serviced, & the sludge build up was incredible. Also was given a small Kipor generator that threw a rod due to failure of the bigend rollers being starved of oil, due to oil holes in the crank blocked with sludge. The owner didn't think it was necessary to change the oil Just top it up if it was low.
Pollution, carbon deposits, acid deposits etc are caused by driving the car. If the car is only driven for 1000km a year then it will only pollute/carbonup/acid etc the oil to the tune of 1000KM......drive the car 5000km and multiply the pollute/carbon/acid etc by 5X. Oil sitting in a sump cannot be contaminated - the engine must operate for contamination to occur. Think about it. I've seen cars that never have their oil changed, however this is only on older cars that are well out of warranty. Of all the engine failures I've been privy to most have failed by overheating, timing belt failure or pushing the car beyond normal limits e.g. a red P plater. My opinions only!
Gday...
I understand your logic and in some ways it is valid. "...Oil sitting in a sump cannot be contaminated - the engine must operate for contamination to occur."
However, if the engine is only started irregularly and driven for short distances (eg - little old lady who only drove it to church on Sundays) the engine oil will be getting a gutful of "contaminants" because the motor and oil are not getting to a proper operating temperature to "burn off" those contaminants.
Apart from the number of Km travelled in whatever time - it is the usage that is quite critical to engine longevity.
Cheers - John
aussie_paul said
07:15 PM Apr 26, 2015
rockylizard wrote:
I understand your logic and in some ways it is valid. "...Oil sitting in a sump cannot be contaminated - the engine must operate for contamination to occur."
However, if the engine is only started irregularly and driven for short distances (eg - little old lady who only drove it to church on Sundays) the engine oil will be getting a gutful of "contaminants" because the motor and oil are not getting to a proper operating temperature to "burn off" those contaminants.
Apart from the number of Km travelled in whatever time - it is the usage that is quite critical to engine longevity.
Cheers - John
Spot on John.
Aussie Paul.
wasn_me said
07:41 PM Apr 26, 2015
hako wrote:
Pollution, carbon deposits, acid deposits etc are caused by driving the car. If the car is only driven for 1000km a year then it will only pollute/carbonup/acid etc the oil to the tune of 1000KM......drive the car 5000km and multiply the pollute/carbon/acid etc by 5X. Oil sitting in a sump cannot be contaminated - the engine must operate for contamination to occur. Think about it. I've seen cars that never have their oil changed, however this is only on older cars that are well out of warranty. Of all the engine failures I've been privy to most have failed by overheating, timing belt failure or pushing the car beyond normal limits e.g. a red P plater. My opinions only!
If that 1000km was done in one hit your argument would be valid. If that 1000km was done in 10 or 20 hits the engine would not be getting hot enough to burn of the pollutants. Water, sulphur & others. Water & sulphur are the bad ones.
Years ago we thought it was good to run engines as cool as possible. Now they run minimum 82 degrees Celsius, to burn of pollutants. If they don't run at that temp for a reasonable period of time these pollutants don't get burnt off.
Basically don't buy a diesel that's only been driven to church on Sundays by a little old lady.
Cheers Pete
Baz421 said
09:01 PM Apr 26, 2015
urbopete wrote:
what about only changing the filter every 5000,would that keep the oil cleaner ... Peter
Not really as the filter that is the replacement will only take out contaminants that the existing one would, unless the existing one is blocked which is unlikely at 5000km.
Many standard filters these days have a cleaning surface area of x and if you want better performance ie 3 times x you need to buy and fit a whole new filter system, usually external to the existing oil filtering system.
I use to have a very good link to high efficiency filters but thes elinks will you give you an idea of what I'm saying, including that the filter needs to be matched to the application.
I've still got a Frantz filter which uses a toilet paper roll as a filter medium - had it on my old Jag XJ6 and the oil would be almost clean as new when drained every 12 months BUT it could not remove acids, oil dilution or any of the contaminents that are invisible. Haven't been game enough to put it on the Territory. You can still buy them and some are designed for trucks take 3 toilet rolls.
Regards
Dodge said
10:21 PM Apr 27, 2015
If you have a modern diesel most manufactures recommend 10,000 k oil change? however I do mine ever 5000 k's this is mainly due to the fact my Dodge (and most new diesels) has a DPF (Diesel particulate filter) this filter catches all the carbon (soot) and when the filter is full goes thru a very hot burn process to clean it out again, the bad news is that all the crap then goes into your oil so that it does not go out the end of your exhaust, extra wear on your engine is the result. So changing the oil more often will help reduce the engine wear.
Regards
Aus-Kiwi said
11:53 PM Apr 28, 2015
The dirtier your oil the better it's working at keeping your engine clean..
They have additives in them to combat carbon build up etc..
10,000 klmrs is not a lot of klmrs ..
Given the size of sumps etc these days..
Old v8's run 4 litres ..modern diesels run way more...
oldtrack123 said
01:20 PM Apr 29, 2015
Aus-Kiwi wrote:
The dirtier your oil the better it's working at keeping your engine clean.. They have additives in them to combat carbon build up etc.. 10,000 klmrs is not a lot of klmrs .. Given the size of sumps etc these days.. Old v8's run 4 litres ..modern diesels run way more...
Are you realy saying that dirty oil is better for the engine??
The safe mileages are based on using just such oils[with those additives]
With the old oils in the old cars the recommended oill change was every 1000MILES [1600kM]
PeterQ
Jaahn said
02:08 PM Apr 29, 2015
Dodge wrote:
If you have a modern diesel most manufactures recommend 10,000 k oil change? however I do mine ever 5000 k's this is mainly due to the fact my Dodge (and most new diesels) has a DPF (Diesel particulate filter) this filter catches all the carbon (soot) and when the filter is full goes thru a very hot burn process to clean it out again, the bad news is that all the crap then goes into your oil so that it does not go out the end of your exhaust, extra wear on your engine is the result. So changing the oil more often will help reduce the engine wear. Regards
Hi Dodge,
I believe you have misinterperated something here. When the engine does a regeneration on the DPF by burning it out, the stuff goes out the exhaust pipe with the exhaust gasses, there is no where else to go. The DPF is along the exhaust system a bit, it does not have any connections to put the crap into the oil. That would be very strange to do, particularly with a diesel.
What is important with a DPF is that you use a low ash oil so that the deposits of the ash from the oil that is burnt off are minimised and do not clog the DPF prematurely.
Jaahn
some reading; http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Diesel_particulate_filter
-- Edited by Jaahn on Wednesday 29th of April 2015 02:11:34 PM
-- Edited by Jaahn on Wednesday 29th of April 2015 05:28:13 PM
Dodge said
11:37 PM Apr 29, 2015
Hi Jaahn,
The info I gave is what is in my service manual, for my Dodge Ram - Californian (USA) law requires nil to no carbons etc to be let out of the exhaust, hence the two pipes on the DPF filter one leads back directly into the upper part of the sump with an electronically activate one way valve on?????My mechanic of 15 years also informed me the same thing as the service manual, as I was worried as how quickly the oil was turning black, he also stated that is why there is a high maintenance/engine rebuild in the USA with vehicles having a DPF filter on?
Regards,
Wayne
Jaahn said
09:07 AM Apr 30, 2015
Dodge wrote:
Hi Jaahn, The info I gave is what is in my service manual, for my Dodge Ram - Californian (USA) law requires nil to no carbons etc to be let out of the exhaust, hence the two pipes on the DPF filter one leads back directly into the upper part of the sump with an electronically activate one way valve on?????My mechanic of 15 years also informed me the same thing as the service manual, as I was worried as how quickly the oil was turning black, he also stated that is why there is a high maintenance/engine rebuild in the USA with vehicles having a DPF filter on? Regards, Wayne
Hi Wayne,
Thanks for that reply. I am surprised, shocked even
I have observed some other DPF systems and they do not put the crap back into the sump. I have read some negative stories about the American systems, now I see why.
Keep changing that oil ! Perhaps look at that return pipe and valve. It could easily fail out on the bad roads if you were lucky
Jaahn
Aus-Kiwi said
01:44 AM May 1, 2015
oldtrack123 wrote:
Aus-Kiwi wrote:
The dirtier your oil the better it's working at keeping your engine clean.. They have additives in them to combat carbon build up etc.. 10,000 klmrs is not a lot of klmrs .. Given the size of sumps etc these days.. Old v8's run 4 litres ..modern diesels run way more...
Are you realy saying that dirty oil is better for the engine??
The safe mileages are based on using just such oils[with those additives]
With the old oils in the old cars the recommended oill change was every 1000MILES [1600kM]
PeterQ
No I'm saying modern oils get dirty fairly fast especially diesels .. The oil is generally dirtier than the engine ..
High detergent diesel oil keeps engine clean if serviced at proper intervals .. I wouldn't change the oil on time alone unless it's done many very short trips.. Sump volume varies.. My old Mitsi 7.5 litre has 14 litre oil capacity.. Our 2005 Exporer has 6.5 GM V8 and has 6 litres including oil cooler lines.. Using quality oil sure helps too..
Aus-Kiwi said
01:52 AM May 1, 2015
Dodge wrote:
Hi Jaahn,
The info I gave is what is in my service manual, for my Dodge Ram - Californian (USA) law requires nil to no carbons etc to be let out of the exhaust, hence the two pipes on the DPF filter one leads back directly into the upper part of the sump with an electronically activate one way valve on?????My mechanic of 15 years also informed me the same thing as the service manual, as I was worried as how quickly the oil was turning black, he also stated that is why there is a high maintenance/engine rebuild in the USA with vehicles having a DPF filter on?
Regards, Wayne
There EGR played havic on some models.. If the exhaust isn't cleaned the ECU shuts engine down..
Tmk you have to pull over off road and go through a DPF cleaning process..
Hi, Does anybody know why if oils don't have a use by date why do Mazda say that you have to change the oil every twelve months ( BT50) regardless of Klm's or it will void the warranty. I said at this rate you will be doing the 80,000 Klm service when the car hasn't done 40,000 Klm .Their answer ... Yes that's possible. I have only done 2,000 Klm ( had to go back to work)in the last twelve months yet they are saying that I have to have a full 10,000 Klm service as the oil goes off. I've spoken to oil suppliers and they say oil (synthetic) doesn't go off if not used but won't put it in writing To use against Mazda. I know oil is cheap but $600.00 plus is dear motoring If you don't use it.
Hi
It is standard procedure, & has been for many many years, with ALL auto makers, to change ENGINE oil at a set mileage intervals or Time periods which ever is the sooner
Servicing, as detailed in the manual is a requirement of the warranty!!
PeterQ
-- Edited by oldtrack123 on Friday 24th of April 2015 08:38:52 PM
Time based servicing is "generally" a means to part you and your money, however engine oil does need to be changed due to contaminants from the combustion process.
I've run fleets using both time and miles and very often time is a waste of money BUT can lead to under servicing (for high mileage vehicles obviously).
Serious organisations determine their servicing requirements based on Spectrometric Oil Analysis Program (SOAP) testing (including for engine/gearbox and diff oils) and this can vary considerably for many reasons including different drivers, how they drive and whether long or short trips. Even in fleets one identical vehicle can differ from others, hence the companies work out a "Mean Time Between Failure" and service schedules are determined accordingly, to take action before a component/part fails. The aircraft industry also follow this practice.
So presumably if Mazda are not just grabbing your cash, they have based their servicing on research.
Gday...
On the other hand ... generally speaking -
e.g. - A vehicle with service intervals set by manufacturer at 15,000km or 12 months;
There is no hard and fast "rule" for oil change/oil filter change for engine longevity. However, for the duration of the warranty period of the vehicle it is prudent to at least adhere to the manufacturer's recommended service intervals.
Cheers - John
You could save a lot of money by changing just the oil & filter yourself, if out of warranty. Bearing in mind if its the 5cyl diesel don't take too long to do the filter & oil change. As it wont pick the oil up on starting. The cure for that is remove the oil pressure switch & pressure feed oil in to the oil gallery.
Could you "please explain" If I take half hour to pour new oil in the engine won't pick it up ? Is that what your saying?
Read this & it does happen.
Oils are pretty good these days, but still get contaminated, best to follow manufacturers recommendations.
I do an oil change between manufacturers recommendations, much cheaper to buy the oil and filter yourself, and do it, or get a local guy to do it, just use the dealer for scheduled services, or a local service guy who can do it if it doesn't void the warranty.
Don't forget there is an element of pollution. This is also why the need for regular oil changes.
Larry
Hi Sti,
Yes oil contamination does occorr regardless of how many k's you log up.The oil is the life blood of your motor .(Just Remember That) to lubricate the internal moving parts of your engine. Cylinder lineings valves ,bearings ect.When combustion occorrs very very small amounts of fue l/ carbon gets removed into the crankcase which starts to break down the oils original qualities. The carbon will thicken the contaminated sump oil that is moved around the motor by the oil pump running off the crankcase on a worm drive.The faster the motor rev's / spins the faster the pump moves the oil around the motor.
The longer the oil remains in the motor, the carbon is allways accumulating over time. the carbon is what causers premeture engine ware. Does this make sence to you.
I am a beilever in changing both the oil and oil filter every 5000km on time, especially when toeing the van / boat. Oil and filters are cheap compaired to a total motor rebuild or replacement tug.
My last car a Toyota prado V6 petrol was fifteen years old.I clocked up 455,000 km on it with over half while towing.I had changed the oil /filter every 5000km transmission every 20,000km with receipts for the materials brought.It took five minutes to sell it and I do the same with this one.
Regards Hey Jim
All vehicles have a kilometre/time interval for a reason as others have mentioned, so if unsure go to Repco, Castrol or Hastings Deering agents where you can purchase
Oil Test Kits which can give accurate results for Oil Degradation, Contamination, etc.
I have used these from Hastings Deering over the last 12 years to ascertaining Engine Wear Characteristics and Oil Change Intervals as I had a Diesel/Gas System fitted on our last
vehicle and was interested to know this information for the reasons listed above.
Cheers Kev.
I've seen cars that never have their oil changed, however this is only on older cars that are well out of warranty. Of all the engine failures I've been privy to most have failed by overheating, timing belt failure or pushing the car beyond normal limits e.g. a red P plater.
My opinions only!
I have seen engines ive striped down to rebuild with badly clogged oil gallerys. These were owned by people who rarely got there vehicles serviced, & the sludge build up was incredible. Also was given a small Kipor generator that threw a rod due to failure of the bigend rollers being starved of oil, due to oil holes in the crank blocked with sludge. The owner didn't think it was necessary to change the oil Just top it up if it was low.
Gday...
I understand your logic and in some ways it is valid. "...Oil sitting in a sump cannot be contaminated - the engine must operate for contamination to occur."
However, if the engine is only started irregularly and driven for short distances (eg - little old lady who only drove it to church on Sundays) the engine oil will be getting a gutful of "contaminants" because the motor and oil are not getting to a proper operating temperature to "burn off" those contaminants.
Apart from the number of Km travelled in whatever time - it is the usage that is quite critical to engine longevity.
Cheers - John
Spot on John.
Aussie Paul.
If that 1000km was done in one hit your argument would be valid. If that 1000km was done in 10 or 20 hits the engine would not be getting hot enough to burn of the pollutants. Water, sulphur & others. Water & sulphur are the bad ones.
Years ago we thought it was good to run engines as cool as possible. Now they run minimum 82 degrees Celsius, to burn of pollutants. If they don't run at that temp for a reasonable period of time these pollutants don't get burnt off.
Basically don't buy a diesel that's only been driven to church on Sundays by a little old lady.
Cheers Pete
Not really as the filter that is the replacement will only take out contaminants that the existing one would, unless the existing one is blocked which is unlikely at 5000km.
Many standard filters these days have a cleaning surface area of x and if you want better performance ie 3 times x you need to buy and fit a whole new filter system, usually external to the existing oil filtering system.
I use to have a very good link to high efficiency filters but thes elinks will you give you an idea of what I'm saying, including that the filter needs to be matched to the application.
http://www.baldwinfilter.com/ProductHighlights092011.html
http://www.ausfilters.com.au/technical/xe-xtra-efficiency
Regards
Regards
They have additives in them to combat carbon build up etc..
10,000 klmrs is not a lot of klmrs ..
Given the size of sumps etc these days..
Old v8's run 4 litres ..modern diesels run way more...
Are you realy saying that dirty oil is better for the engine??
The safe mileages are based on using just such oils[with those additives]
With the old oils in the old cars the recommended oill change was every 1000MILES [1600kM]
PeterQ
Hi Dodge,
I believe you have misinterperated something here. When the engine does a regeneration on the DPF by burning it out, the stuff goes out the exhaust pipe with the exhaust gasses, there is no where else to go. The DPF is along the exhaust system a bit, it does not have any connections to put the crap into the oil. That would be very strange to do, particularly with a diesel.
What is important with a DPF is that you use a low ash oil so that the deposits of the ash from the oil that is burnt off are minimised and do not clog the DPF prematurely.
Jaahn
some reading; http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Diesel_particulate_filter
-- Edited by Jaahn on Wednesday 29th of April 2015 02:11:34 PM
-- Edited by Jaahn on Wednesday 29th of April 2015 05:28:13 PM
The info I gave is what is in my service manual, for my Dodge Ram - Californian (USA) law requires nil to no carbons etc to be let out of the exhaust, hence the two pipes on the DPF filter one leads back directly into the upper part of the sump with an electronically activate one way valve on?????My mechanic of 15 years also informed me the same thing as the service manual, as I was worried as how quickly the oil was turning black, he also stated that is why there is a high maintenance/engine rebuild in the USA with vehicles having a DPF filter on?
Regards,
Wayne
Hi Wayne,
Thanks for that reply. I am surprised, shocked even
I have observed some other DPF systems and they do not put the crap back into the sump. I have read some negative stories about the American systems, now I see why.
Keep changing that oil ! Perhaps look at that return pipe and valve. It could easily fail out on the bad roads if you were lucky
Jaahn
No I'm saying modern oils get dirty fairly fast especially diesels .. The oil is generally dirtier than the engine ..
High detergent diesel oil keeps engine clean if serviced at proper intervals .. I wouldn't change the oil on time alone unless it's done many very short trips.. Sump volume varies.. My old Mitsi 7.5 litre has 14 litre oil capacity.. Our 2005 Exporer has 6.5 GM V8 and has 6 litres including oil cooler lines.. Using quality oil sure helps too..
There EGR played havic on some models.. If the exhaust isn't cleaned the ECU shuts engine down..
Tmk you have to pull over off road and go through a DPF cleaning process..
Some mechanics maybe taking advantage of this ?