I've always thought a trolley jack was better than a bottle or sizzor jack, so, when we bought our "Roadworx" bout 8 months ago I went to the auto shop and got a 2.5 ton rated trolley jack (bloody heavy). Anyway last week I had to put it to the test with a flat on the inside right rear dual. But, seems the lift point is behind the wheels and to use the new toy means lying on my back, under the motorhome at that presented 2 problems. 1. Not Safe and 2. I couldn't get the leverage lying down to opperate the jack, I was just doing pull ups on the handle.
Called the RAC and they just suggested we drive to a Tyre shop near by, so took the risk, (good thing with dual's I suppose). I have no dobut the the trolley jack will be OK for the front wheels but for the rear??? That now leaves me with the next time if/when it happens out in the middle of nowhere. The Ford manual is pretty useles cause it deals with a straight cab chassis not taking into an oversized body attached. "Roadworks" is a 1998 Ford Transit (with something very different under the bonnet & drive line, hehe).
So for those with a similar Motorhome can you tell me what jack you use and from what lifting points is best?
deverall11 said
11:32 AM Mar 20, 2015
Have you tried lifting from the side. I mean lifting the body. Most modern jacks lift from the axle. Back in the days we had bumper bar jacks. It lifted the body. You may or may not get it high enough.
Just an idea.
Larry
madaboutled said
12:12 PM Mar 20, 2015
Thanks Larry, nice thought but the body is Fibreglass, front wheels no problem the back duels are the issue cause the MH body overhangs and then hangs down lower than the chassis. Its knowing a lift point that's safe to use, then best jack for the job.
Regards Steve.
exa41 said
02:24 PM Mar 20, 2015
I still use a 10 ton bottle jack . as it is smaller ( space saver ) and fits under the axle . there should be a lift point under the suspension / suspension mount somewhere to lift on.
madaboutled said
03:18 PM Mar 20, 2015
Hi Dennis & all, I figured a 10 ton Bottle Jack will be OK cause the unit loaded is well under 4 ton. Had another look a few moments ago and I'm thinking of lifting from off the Towbar where it starts off the chassis as this has a 10mm large steel plate thats bolted to the rear spring hangers. I couldn't use the Trolley jack here because the lift range wasn't enough.
But a 2 or 3 stage bottle jack on a thick block of wood might be stable enough. My only concern is the jack slipping cause the surface area of the towbar rail is only 60mm wide. I am thinking of seeing someone with a welder and getting a piece of 2 inch Pipe about 20mm high welded on to the underside of the Towbar rail on each side. This would create a cup for the top of the jack to sit in, and may then be enough to prevent the jack from slipping from the top at least.
Thoughts anyone?
Regards Steve.
-- Edited by madaboutled on Friday 20th of March 2015 03:19:12 PM
Baz421 said
06:33 PM Mar 20, 2015
I suggest you lift under the rear axle, and NOT from side or towbar ANYWHERE.
If you lift under the axle you need a minimal lift to compensate for the flat tyre, BUT if you lift the body (and risk body distortion etc) you need to lift the suspension and the flat tyre off the ground and as you say you risk sliding sidewards.
A 10 ton jack is a massive over kill, if as you say you have 4 ton unit loaded, chances are you have about 1.4 tonnes on each rear wheel (=2.8 tonnes) and say 0.6 tonnes on each front wheel (=1.2 tonnes). So as you can see a 10 ton jack is a massive overkill. I would consider say 4 ton as you still have good safety margin.
My 2 cents worth.
Cheers Baz
madaboutled said
10:08 PM Mar 20, 2015
Baz421 wrote:
I suggest you lift under the rear axle, and NOT from side or towbar ANYWHERE.
If you lift under the axle you need a minimal lift to compensate for the flat tyre, BUT if you lift the body (and risk body distortion etc) you need to lift the suspension and the flat tyre off the ground and as you say you risk sliding sidewards.
A 10 ton jack is a massive over kill, if as you say you have 4 ton unit loaded, chances are you have about 1.4 tonnes on each rear wheel (=2.8 tonnes) and say 0.6 tonnes on each front wheel (=1.2 tonnes). So as you can see a 10 ton jack is a massive overkill. I would consider say 4 ton as you still have good safety margin.
My 2 cents worth.
Cheers Baz
Hi Baz, thanks for the reply, the problem is safe access, my transit is very a low body to start with so getting to the rear axle without getting under the vehicle is the problem also when/if you're under there because if the low body theres no room to move. If I had 2 flats on the rear, then getting to the rear axel would be impossible. So at the moment under the towbar is the only real safe point accessible without being under it.
Here's a few pics that might explain the access problems better...., (see comments under each pic)
Above As you can see the Motorhome is quite low to the ground
The Wheel arch doesn't offer much access either
This last pic shows the Towbar Rail, there's a large 10mm thick plate (you can't see it) that's on the other side of the rail and that goes up on the inside of the Chassis. The plate uses the 2 bolts holding the spring hanger and a new bolt through the chassis in a reinforced hole. You can see this bolt its the newer shinny one. The lift point would be about middle of these bolts. The right side is the worst cause you also have to get around the exhaust pipe.
-- Edited by madaboutled on Friday 20th of March 2015 10:10:12 PM
Maybe you can pick a safe point on the spring itself as I do ,lift the van and put a stand under for safety ,the trolley jack wouldn't have an issue at this point and saves crawling under the vehicle.by the way my jack isn't an overkill ,jacked the camper many times easily and safely
Lozza1956 said
08:20 AM Mar 21, 2015
. Hi Steve. Baz is right. Only lift under the axle. There is a locating point there to hold the bottle Jack in place( on our Bago anyway). It is a bludger of a job to do.
Tyre centres really tension the nuts up so make sure you crack them before jacking. I take a piece of gal pipe to extend the brace to give more leverage, so I don't break my back.
it is the safest way of doing it. Certainly not comfortable.
Take care out there.
Laurie.
Jaahn said
08:51 AM Mar 21, 2015
Hi,
Unfortunately there is no good answer here. The really safe and certain way to lift the back is under the axle or under the spring close to the axle. The access to there is really bad we can see. My suggestion is to carry a tarp and some old clothes so you can get under there to put the jack in. Make sure the jack can go up with small strokes on the handle because that's all you can do.
There are some alternatives of electric jacks which plug into the ciggy socket. They may be worth looking at. I have no direct experience but thought they looked interesting at the shows. I think I would make up some long handle attached to any jack, to push it into place without having to get under it too far. A smaller one than 10T may be lighter to manhandle there.
I think you will find that jacking on the towbar or the rear chassie will result in the body being lifted to a somewhat unstable height on that corner before the wheel comes off the ground. Very unbalanced stance. If you were not on a perfect site it would be dodgey IMHO. Trolley jacks do lift in an arc on a high lift too which cause instability.
Jaahn
madaboutled said
12:36 PM Mar 21, 2015
I appreciate what you are all saying "lift under the axle" and I agree that would be the best place. But, it's too low for crawling in from the side to locate it under the axle because of all the obsticales (under body tool boxes/storage) under there to opperate the jack would mean staying under there as well which isn't safe. Not sure what my options would be, I might have to go somewhere where they specialise in lifting equipment and see what they have to say, maybe an air or electric opperated jack might be the answer as Jaahn suggested, thanks for the replies anyway very much appreciated.
Regards Steve.
-- Edited by madaboutled on Saturday 21st of March 2015 12:38:33 PM
Footprints said
01:43 PM Mar 21, 2015
You could maybe do what we used to do in the past. That is place a wheel chock maybe 150mm high in front of the flat or inflated wheel of the rear duals and drive forward this will raise the rear high enough to place the jack under the rear axle and whilst doing so it will be safe and stable. If necessary and stranded drive onto the spare wheel which can be placed in front of the flat tyre to get yourself out of trouble.
Aus-Kiwi said
12:21 AM Mar 22, 2015
I use the the hydro stabilizers / levers and stands ... At home use 5 tonn air over hydro floor jack ..
With STANDS and wheel chocks ..
patrolst said
09:54 AM Mar 22, 2015
Have a look at this type of jack. This would allow you to get the vehicle to the right height them put a stand under while removing and replacing the wheel.
www.bushranger.com.au/exhaust_jack.php
-- Edited by patrolst on Sunday 22nd of March 2015 09:58:45 AM
madaboutled said
12:49 PM Mar 22, 2015
I did think about an exhaust jack, but concerned with the surface area it needs to push on. I would think it needs a very strong stable flatish area, 4x4's are OK cause they have a steel floor pan, so I wouldn't like to push up the ply floor on the motorhome. The tool/storage boxes underneath have very light weight floors and frames so wouldn't like to push up from there. I don't know it you can use these bags on just chassis or wheel axels.
pomme said
03:26 PM Mar 22, 2015
Suggest the exhaust jack which "Patrolst" mentioned with a piece of ply over the top of bag before it is blown up, helps to distribute the weight and also protects bag from punctures.
Used this method for years as my back is U.S. now so can not bend.
Pomme.
Baz421 said
08:45 PM Mar 22, 2015
I see access is your problem Steve,, a couple of pics really help.
IF you have to jack on the towbar as per the pics AND IF as you say it has a plate direct to the chassis this may work PROVIDED you don't crush the towbar tube.
SUGGESTION: Get a professional engineering works to design and construct an adapter that sits under the towbar and cannot move, and takes the load from the jack without distorting at all. This could resolve your issues. Even better if this adapter sits on your jack tightly to allow easy use.
Make sure the bolts though your existing chassis to the plate you describe are high tensile and able to take any imposed load.
Note: see the diameter of the bolts attaching the spring hanger and the diameter of the bolt(s) on the 10mm plate you mention. You may need to increase the bolt diameter if only one or 2 bolts each side of vehicle.
Hope this helps, Cheers Baz
madaboutled said
01:10 AM Mar 23, 2015
Hi Baz, the pic doesnt really show the full height of the Chassis rail or the second (top) blot holding the spring hanger but the Plate extends to the full height of the chassis, and the "new" bolt is in an existing hole in the chassis that has a reinforcing sleve in it. The plate then extends down 75mm onto the Towbar rail which is 100mm x 50mm x 6mm. All 3 bolts are 5/8 inch high tensile. I'm pretty confident the towbar rail wouldn't crush but as you say I'd get an engineer to look at it to be sure.
madaboutled said
01:17 AM Mar 23, 2015
pomme wrote:
Suggest the exhaust jack which "Patrolst" mentioned with a piece of ply over the top of bag before it is blown up, helps to distribute the weight and also protects bag from punctures. Used this method for years as my back is U.S. now so can not bend. Pomme.
Was talking with my nephew inlaw this afternoon he has a 4ton rated exhaust jack for his 4 x 4, he told me that in is possible to lift on the chassis or axle said that the bag just conforms around them. Anyway thought we might try it in a week or so if I can't come up with a better solution. Still sceptical about the bags.
-- Edited by madaboutled on Monday 23rd of March 2015 01:18:18 AM
Radar said
04:07 PM Mar 24, 2015
Hi Madabouted
Been reading this thread for a few days now but was unable to reply due to poor internet coverage.
First thing I would look at is swapping the floor jack for good quality squat 4 tonne rated bottle jack.
2nd thing I would be very shy about using a exhaust bag for changing a flat tyre.
Obtain yourself a good lump of timber with a 45 deg bevel at one end so as you can drive the side with the flat on the MH up onto.
Timber needs to be 50 mills thick and a good 200 wide by 500 long place this under the inflated tyre to drive up onto which will raise the MH making it easier to get under to jack the MH up be careful to have the vehicle choked and loosen the the wheel nuts a bit before you start lifting, another good trick is to have the spare laying flat next to where you are working, don't lean the spare against the MH as it may wander away as you jack the vehicle up.
This ramp will have several uses, level the home, fire wood as a last resource, cleaning the fish on or the road kill, it seriously will have a lot of uses so take 2 maybe make them a little shorter for convenience.
Hope this helps as from my years of driving heavy transports where I did change my own tyres and these timbers were most useful. Ralph.
-- Edited by Radar on Tuesday 24th of March 2015 09:43:35 PM
madaboutled said
11:47 PM Mar 24, 2015
Thanks for the tips Radar,
I have a HR license, owned a few trucks over the years and had a ex Perth MTT bus (30 Foot Leyland Cub 400CI Mid Mount 4 speed Semi Auto) that I converted to a MH about 25 years ago, so changing tyres... been there. The problem with this one is safe access and the fact I don't bend anywhere near what I used to be able to do, plus have a few other physical/medical issues that I now have to work around.
The underbody tool boxes come almost right up to the wheel arch and the clearance is very low even with it on blocks. I'm also catering for the possiblity of both duals being flat, it's rare but not impossible. So, getting a jack in from the side under the axle and then being able to opperate the jack is the problem. I can however get the jack in by crawling through from under the back between the towbar rails to locate the jack, I do this to check the diff oil occassionaly. But I wouldn't what to jack it up from under there. If it slipped off the jack I'd be pinned, so not safe.
I've gone away from the exhaust bag idea after reading several things about them, while they are a good idea they just wern't designed for this purpose. Because I can get under to locate the jack I'm now looking at getting a jack that uses a remote Porta Power hand pump, it would be smaller than the trolley jack so storage isn't an issue. I've looked into the 12v electric jacks but 2ton is about their limit, so hydrolic is the go. Using a Porta Power type jack I can position it under the axle, then connect the pump line to it and opperate from the outside where it's safer. I just want something thats safe to use.
Regards Steve.
Radar said
09:42 AM Mar 25, 2015
Hi Steve
Can understand, yes I am the same but still for the most have good health but not as physical as I once was.
The other week coming south in our car and caravan blow a tyre on the left of the van and hard difficulty in getting the jack under. After using the block of wood 2 scissor type jacks with the help of my wife we had it up higher enough to change the wheel but not before nearly loosing the spare down the embankment as she had lent it against the rear of the van as we jacked it up it decided to roll away.
All those comical situations, it all ended good.
I have thought about a trailmate jack but have not got one yet, like closing the gate after the horse has gone. Ralph
madaboutled said
10:04 AM Mar 25, 2015
Radar wrote:I have thought about a trailmate jack but have not got one yet, like closing the gate after the horse has gone. Ralph
Hi Ralph,
My father had one of those for his Coramal Van, I had the pleasure of changing a tyre for him on one occassion a few years ago. The trailmate's are great just wish I could have something like it for the Motorhome, for you though, don't think about just do it the next flat you have won't be so much of a chore. Its taken a few years but I've learn't that spending a bit more to make my work easier on the body is money well spent and easy to justify with the finance department.
Regards Steve.
Jaahn said
02:09 PM Mar 25, 2015
Hi Steve,
I see you are still throwing around ideas. I have a couple of mechanical jacks that came out of Jap trucks. These are rated at two tons. I got them a while back and greased them up and they work OK. They have a shaft with a hole to fit a handle hook into, and then you wind it. The handle also helps push it into position and remove also. The handles are long and could also be extended if you wanted as they are simple. With this style you do not have to pump a handle but just turn from out the side or rear. You might fine some similar at truck wreckers.
I have had some experience with Porta power jacks. Bloody expensive for a heavy bit of sh*t. They are not multi extending rams so getting a suitable size that will fit under a flat but then lifting high enough will be difficult, I would think. However for another idea, you could fit a hose and pump to an ordinary jack by drilling into the oilway and tapping it for a hose fitting.
Cheers Jaahn
Radar said
07:44 PM Mar 25, 2015
madaboutled wrote:
Radar wrote:I have thought about a trailmate jack but have not got one yet, like closing the gate after the horse has gone. Ralph
Hi Ralph,
My father had one of those for his Coramal Van, I had the pleasure of changing a tyre for him on one occassion a few years ago. The trailmate's are great just wish I could have something like it for the Motorhome, for you though, don't think about just do it the next flat you have won't be so much of a chore. Its taken a few years but I've learn't that spending a bit more to make my work easier on the body is money well spent and easy to justify with the finance department.
Regards Steve.
Hi Steve, thank you for your reply, I like the idea of spending the money on a trailmate, that solves my problem.
Now yours maybe speaking with one of those on board jack people like race cars use or large motorhomes have to adjust the level of there homes. Ralph.
madaboutled said
09:21 PM Mar 26, 2015
Spoke to an "engineer" today, he said jacking on the towbar rail as I mentioned earlier would be fine right under where it's bolted to the spring hanger & putting on a ring lip to prevet the jack from slipping was a good idea.
Was going to buy a bottle jack today after I had the new windscreen fitted.... murphy's law found some rust under the old screen that needs to be fixed first, so the MH is off to the panel beater next week for a few days R & R (rust repairs). Thankfully we're still in Perth and can stay with family with the dog whilst its being done. At the moment though we have the windscreen area covered in plastic & duck tapped to the body. Hope it holds cause rain predicted all this weekend in Perth.
Thanks for all the input everybody it's very much appreciated and so great to be able to bounce things off people.
I've always thought a trolley jack was better than a bottle or sizzor jack, so, when we bought our "Roadworx" bout 8 months ago I went to the auto shop and got a 2.5 ton rated trolley jack (bloody heavy). Anyway last week I had to put it to the test with a flat on the inside right rear dual. But, seems the lift point is behind the wheels and to use the new toy means lying on my back, under the motorhome at that presented 2 problems. 1. Not Safe and 2. I couldn't get the leverage lying down to opperate the jack, I was just doing pull ups on the handle.
Called the RAC and they just suggested we drive to a Tyre shop near by, so took the risk, (good thing with dual's I suppose). I have no dobut the the trolley jack will be OK for the front wheels but for the rear??? That now leaves me with the next time if/when it happens out in the middle of nowhere. The Ford manual is pretty useles cause it deals with a straight cab chassis not taking into an oversized body attached. "Roadworks" is a 1998 Ford Transit (with something very different under the bonnet & drive line, hehe).
So for those with a similar Motorhome can you tell me what jack you use and from what lifting points is best?
Just an idea.
Larry
Thanks Larry, nice thought but the body is Fibreglass, front wheels no problem the back duels are the issue cause the MH body overhangs and then hangs down lower than the chassis. Its knowing a lift point that's safe to use, then best jack for the job.
Regards Steve.
Hi Dennis & all, I figured a 10 ton Bottle Jack will be OK cause the unit loaded is well under 4 ton. Had another look a few moments ago and I'm thinking of lifting from off the Towbar where it starts off the chassis as this has a 10mm large steel plate thats bolted to the rear spring hangers. I couldn't use the Trolley jack here because the lift range wasn't enough.
But a 2 or 3 stage bottle jack on a thick block of wood might be stable enough. My only concern is the jack slipping cause the surface area of the towbar rail is only 60mm wide. I am thinking of seeing someone with a welder and getting a piece of 2 inch Pipe about 20mm high welded on to the underside of the Towbar rail on each side. This would create a cup for the top of the jack to sit in, and may then be enough to prevent the jack from slipping from the top at least.
Thoughts anyone?
Regards Steve.
-- Edited by madaboutled on Friday 20th of March 2015 03:19:12 PM
I suggest you lift under the rear axle, and NOT from side or towbar ANYWHERE.
If you lift under the axle you need a minimal lift to compensate for the flat tyre, BUT if you lift the body (and risk body distortion etc) you need to lift the suspension and the flat tyre off the ground and as you say you risk sliding sidewards.
A 10 ton jack is a massive over kill, if as you say you have 4 ton unit loaded, chances are you have about 1.4 tonnes on each rear wheel (=2.8 tonnes) and say 0.6 tonnes on each front wheel (=1.2 tonnes). So as you can see a 10 ton jack is a massive overkill. I would consider say 4 ton as you still have good safety margin.
My 2 cents worth.
Cheers Baz
Hi Baz, thanks for the reply, the problem is safe access, my transit is very a low body to start with so getting to the rear axle without getting under the vehicle is the problem also when/if you're under there because if the low body theres no room to move. If I had 2 flats on the rear, then getting to the rear axel would be impossible. So at the moment under the towbar is the only real safe point accessible without being under it.
Here's a few pics that might explain the access problems better...., (see comments under each pic)
Above As you can see the Motorhome is quite low to the ground
The Wheel arch doesn't offer much access either
This last pic shows the Towbar Rail, there's a large 10mm thick plate (you can't see it) that's on the other side of the rail and that goes up on the inside of the Chassis. The plate uses the 2 bolts holding the spring hanger and a new bolt through the chassis in a reinforced hole. You can see this bolt its the newer shinny one. The lift point would be about middle of these bolts. The right side is the worst cause you also have to get around the exhaust pipe.
-- Edited by madaboutled on Friday 20th of March 2015 10:10:12 PM
Tyre centres really tension the nuts up so make sure you crack them before jacking. I take a piece of gal pipe to extend the brace to give more leverage, so I don't break my back.
it is the safest way of doing it. Certainly not comfortable.
Take care out there.
Laurie.
Hi,
Unfortunately there is no good answer here.
The really safe and certain way to lift the back is under the axle or under the spring close to the axle. The access to there is really bad we can see. My suggestion is to carry a tarp and some old clothes so you can get under there to put the jack in. 
Make sure the jack can go up with small strokes on the handle because that's all you can do.
There are some alternatives of electric jacks which plug into the ciggy socket. They may be worth looking at. I have no direct experience but thought they looked interesting at the shows. I think I would make up some long handle attached to any jack, to push it into place without having to get under it too far. A smaller one than 10T may be lighter to manhandle there.
I think you will find that jacking on the towbar or the rear chassie will result in the body being lifted to a somewhat unstable height on that corner before the wheel comes off the ground. Very unbalanced stance. If you were not on a perfect site it would be dodgey IMHO.
Trolley jacks do lift in an arc on a high lift too which cause instability.
Jaahn
I appreciate what you are all saying "lift under the axle" and I agree that would be the best place. But, it's too low for crawling in from the side to locate it under the axle because of all the obsticales (under body tool boxes/storage) under there to opperate the jack would mean staying under there as well which isn't safe. Not sure what my options would be, I might have to go somewhere where they specialise in lifting equipment and see what they have to say, maybe an air or electric opperated jack might be the answer as Jaahn suggested, thanks for the replies anyway very much appreciated.
Regards Steve.
-- Edited by madaboutled on Saturday 21st of March 2015 12:38:33 PM
You could maybe do what we used to do in the past. That is place a wheel chock maybe 150mm high in front of the flat or inflated wheel of the rear duals and drive forward this will raise the rear high enough to place the jack under the rear axle and whilst doing so it will be safe and stable. If necessary and stranded drive onto the spare wheel which can be placed in front of the flat tyre to get yourself out of trouble.
With STANDS and wheel chocks ..
Have a look at this type of jack. This would allow you to get the vehicle to the right height them put a stand under while removing and replacing the wheel.
www.bushranger.com.au/exhaust_jack.php
-- Edited by patrolst on Sunday 22nd of March 2015 09:58:45 AM
I did think about an exhaust jack, but concerned with the surface area it needs to push on. I would think it needs a very strong stable flatish area, 4x4's are OK cause they have a steel floor pan, so I wouldn't like to push up the ply floor on the motorhome. The tool/storage boxes underneath have very light weight floors and frames so wouldn't like to push up from there. I don't know it you can use these bags on just chassis or wheel axels.
Used this method for years as my back is U.S. now so can not bend.
Pomme.
I see access is your problem Steve,, a couple of pics really help.
IF you have to jack on the towbar as per the pics AND IF as you say it has a plate direct to the chassis this may work PROVIDED you don't crush the towbar tube.
SUGGESTION: Get a professional engineering works to design and construct an adapter that sits under the towbar and cannot move, and takes the load from the jack without distorting at all. This could resolve your issues. Even better if this adapter sits on your jack tightly to allow easy use.
Make sure the bolts though your existing chassis to the plate you describe are high tensile and able to take any imposed load.
Note: see the diameter of the bolts attaching the spring hanger and the diameter of the bolt(s) on the 10mm plate you mention. You may need to increase the bolt diameter if only one or 2 bolts each side of vehicle.
Hope this helps, Cheers Baz
Hi Baz, the pic doesnt really show the full height of the Chassis rail or the second (top) blot holding the spring hanger but the Plate extends to the full height of the chassis, and the "new" bolt is in an existing hole in the chassis that has a reinforcing sleve in it. The plate then extends down 75mm onto the Towbar rail which is 100mm x 50mm x 6mm. All 3 bolts are 5/8 inch high tensile. I'm pretty confident the towbar rail wouldn't crush but as you say I'd get an engineer to look at it to be sure.
Was talking with my nephew inlaw this afternoon he has a 4ton rated exhaust jack for his 4 x 4, he told me that in is possible to lift on the chassis or axle said that the bag just conforms around them. Anyway thought we might try it in a week or so if I can't come up with a better solution. Still sceptical about the bags.
-- Edited by madaboutled on Monday 23rd of March 2015 01:18:18 AM
Hi Madabouted
Been reading this thread for a few days now but was unable to reply due to poor internet coverage.
First thing I would look at is swapping the floor jack for good quality squat 4 tonne rated bottle jack.
2nd thing I would be very shy about using a exhaust bag for changing a flat tyre.
Obtain yourself a good lump of timber with a 45 deg bevel at one end so as you can drive the side with the flat on the MH up onto.
Timber needs to be 50 mills thick and a good 200 wide by 500 long place this under the inflated tyre to drive up onto which will raise the MH making it easier to get under to jack the MH up be careful to have the vehicle choked and loosen the the wheel nuts a bit before you start lifting, another good trick is to have the spare laying flat next to where you are working, don't lean the spare against the MH as it may wander away as you jack the vehicle up.
This ramp will have several uses, level the home, fire wood as a last resource, cleaning the fish on or the road kill, it seriously will have a lot of uses so take 2 maybe make them a little shorter for convenience.
Hope this helps as from my years of driving heavy transports where I did change my own tyres and these timbers were most useful. Ralph.
-- Edited by Radar on Tuesday 24th of March 2015 09:43:35 PM
Thanks for the tips Radar,
I have a HR license, owned a few trucks over the years and had a ex Perth MTT bus (30 Foot Leyland Cub 400CI Mid Mount 4 speed Semi Auto) that I converted to a MH about 25 years ago, so changing tyres... been there. The problem with this one is safe access and the fact I don't bend anywhere near what I used to be able to do, plus have a few other physical/medical issues that I now have to work around.
The underbody tool boxes come almost right up to the wheel arch and the clearance is very low even with it on blocks. I'm also catering for the possiblity of both duals being flat, it's rare but not impossible. So, getting a jack in from the side under the axle and then being able to opperate the jack is the problem. I can however get the jack in by crawling through from under the back between the towbar rails to locate the jack, I do this to check the diff oil occassionaly. But I wouldn't what to jack it up from under there. If it slipped off the jack I'd be pinned, so not safe.
I've gone away from the exhaust bag idea after reading several things about them, while they are a good idea they just wern't designed for this purpose. Because I can get under to locate the jack I'm now looking at getting a jack that uses a remote Porta Power hand pump, it would be smaller than the trolley jack so storage isn't an issue. I've looked into the 12v electric jacks but 2ton is about their limit, so hydrolic is the go. Using a Porta Power type jack I can position it under the axle, then connect the pump line to it and opperate from the outside where it's safer. I just want something thats safe to use.
Regards Steve.
Hi Steve
Can understand, yes I am the same but still for the most have good health but not as physical as I once was.
The other week coming south in our car and caravan blow a tyre on the left of the van and hard difficulty in getting the jack under. After using the block of wood 2 scissor type jacks with the help of my wife we had it up higher enough to change the wheel but not before nearly loosing the spare down the embankment as she had lent it against the rear of the van as we jacked it up it decided to roll away.
All those comical situations, it all ended good.
I have thought about a trailmate jack but have not got one yet, like closing the gate after the horse has gone. Ralph
Hi Ralph,
My father had one of those for his Coramal Van, I had the pleasure of changing a tyre for him on one occassion a few years ago. The trailmate's are great just wish I could have something like it for the Motorhome, for you though, don't think about just do it the next flat you have won't be so much of a chore. Its taken a few years but I've learn't that spending a bit more to make my work easier on the body is money well spent and easy to justify with the finance department.
Regards Steve.
Hi Steve,
I see you are still throwing around ideas. I have a couple of mechanical jacks that came out of Jap trucks. These are rated at two tons. I got them a while back and greased them up and they work OK. They have a shaft with a hole to fit a handle hook into, and then you wind it. The handle also helps push it into position and remove also. The handles are long and could also be extended if you wanted as they are simple. With this style you do not have to pump a handle but just turn from out the side or rear. You might fine some similar at truck wreckers.
I have had some experience with Porta power jacks. Bloody expensive for a heavy bit of sh*t. They are not multi extending rams so getting a suitable size that will fit under a flat but then lifting high enough will be difficult, I would think. However for another idea, you could fit a hose and pump to an ordinary jack by drilling into the oilway and tapping it for a hose fitting.
Cheers Jaahn
Hi Steve, thank you for your reply, I like the idea of spending the money on a trailmate, that solves my problem.
Now yours maybe speaking with one of those on board jack people like race cars use or large motorhomes have to adjust the level of there homes. Ralph.
Spoke to an "engineer" today, he said jacking on the towbar rail as I mentioned earlier would be fine right under where it's bolted to the spring hanger & putting on a ring lip to prevet the jack from slipping was a good idea.
Was going to buy a bottle jack today after I had the new windscreen fitted.... murphy's law found some rust under the old screen that needs to be fixed first, so the MH is off to the panel beater next week for a few days R & R (rust repairs). Thankfully we're still in Perth and can stay with family with the dog whilst its being done. At the moment though we have the windscreen area covered in plastic & duck tapped to the body. Hope it holds cause rain predicted all this weekend in Perth.
Thanks for all the input everybody it's very much appreciated and so great to be able to bounce things off people.