Possibly already been covered but can't find any information, when towing your caravan (with load levelling bars) are you supposed to be level or a little high or a little low. I have been given advise on all 3 and would like a correct answer. The tow vehicle is a 2013 land cruiser and the caravan is a supreme spirit lex (atm 2500kg), all advise welcome. Rick
Peter_n_Margaret said
03:28 PM Dec 23, 2014
Hitching a caravan to an overhung hitch has the undesirable effect of transferring weight from the front wheels to the rear wheels.
They are not "load levelling bars". That is not their purpose.
It is a "Weight distribution hitch", the purpose of which is to transfer some of the load back onto the front wheels to ensure proper control.
The ride level of the van should be determined by the height of the ball and the height of the hitch.
Cheers,
Peter
Suerick said
03:47 PM Dec 23, 2014
Sorry, we have Weight distribution hitch, when hitched up the van would be up about 20 - 30 mm. As we are about to spend a long time towing and travelling this great country, will this be ok or should I look at getting a longer gooseneck and tow with it about 50 mm lower at the front?
Roving-Dutchy said
03:57 PM Dec 23, 2014
The latest thinking would be that, you bring the front of the car back down to about 50% of where it was previously, before you connected the van. I think that it is about right if you stand back from the rig and if it all looks reasonably level you can't go far wrong. It is a mistake to try and force the front of the car too far down and if you do excessive force will be exerted by the WDH.
Cheers
David
Crockie said
04:18 PM Dec 23, 2014
Does this look pretty level to the group? Kindly ignore the bride's back... Thanks
I measured my caravan chassis at the front and the back to get it level and then adjusted the hitch height so it was just below that.
When I hook the van on it sits with the front 20mm low and the ute is very close to level. Tows like a dream that way even going downhill which seems to be where a lot of rigs show some instability.
For other information search using the term: "how to set up a hayman reese hitch"
Regards
Dave
Cupie said
05:48 PM Dec 23, 2014
Hi Rick & Welcome to the forum.
In my opinion, you aught to spend as much time as needed in reading and doing, to fully comprehend the information in D & D's link. In doing so you're setting up your rig correctly right from the start.
If you are not mechanically minded, then I suggest that you go back to the yard that where you purchased the van (or your local Hayman Reece Agent) and have them set it up for you & explain as they go.
Radar said
11:27 PM Dec 23, 2014
Hi Suerick.
Welcome, I see you have a Toyota Landcruiser. Well I was sitting at the lights tonight there was 2 Toyotas both low at front and the back up. Now I then remembered the brother in laws Toyota was the same I nearly got into a debate with him about the way his wagon was sitting but then realized you don't debate with Toyota owners, he was trying to tell me it sat level on the road, yes after he dropped 250 kgs on the ball taking weight off the front if you know what I mean.
I do believe with your wagon with out the van it be higher at the back adding the van it may level it a bit but I doubt it will sit lower then the front unless you have over loaded the ball weight or rear of the wagon.
I think you may not even need so called wdh bars as the wagon capabilities would be good enough, maybe a set of the less expensive stability bars would do to give you piece of mine.
Yes I am know engineer or have a mechanical back ground. Have been involved in the transport industries all my working life. Ralph.
PeterD said
08:59 AM Dec 24, 2014
The instructions from Dave (D and D) are the way to go. When you have thing set for correct weight transfer the front of the van should be up to 50 mm low rather than up in the air for best results.
-- Edited by PeterD on Wednesday 24th of December 2014 08:59:52 AM
deverall11 said
11:37 AM Dec 24, 2014
As you can see there are many views/opinions on how to set up your WDH. Everyone means well however, at times it is best to get the correct information from people who are paid to do so.
A trip to a Haymen Reese agent would give you an unbiased procedure.
Larry
PeterD said
12:23 PM Dec 24, 2014
Larry, the HR agents will use the same information as in Dave's link.
Radar said
03:03 PM Dec 24, 2014
deverall11 wrote:
As you can see there are many views/opinions on how to set up your WDH. Everyone means well however, at times it is best to get the correct information from people who are paid to do so. A trip to a Haymen Reese agent would give you an unbiased procedure. Larry
Hi Deverall I would believe that information you would receive from H & R would be very biased towards there equipment, so you would still need to tread very lightly on there advice.
Yes maybe they can show you where you are not understanding there concept of the WD bars, check his qualifications, there real life experience apart from selling WD bars to unsuspecting buyers.
I strongly believe you will at first need to make the tow vehicle and caravan feel comfortable when towing, sitting right, able to carry the load correctly before adding bolt on extra safety fixtures like WH bars or for another name sway bars.
PeterD said
04:55 PM Dec 24, 2014
Radar wrote:I strongly believe you will at first need to make the tow vehicle and caravan feel comfortable when towing, sitting right, able to carry the load correctly before adding bolt on extra safety fixtures like WH bars or for another name sway bars.
So you get things correct first and then you add the WDH do you? That sounds like you are saying you get things "sitting right" first and then you add the WDH which will upset what you have done. I think you need to set the whole lot up as a package deal to to get things "sitting right."
deverall11 said
07:48 PM Dec 24, 2014
PeterD wrote:
Radar wrote:I strongly believe you will at first need to make the tow vehicle and caravan feel comfortable when towing, sitting right, able to carry the load correctly before adding bolt on extra safety fixtures like WH bars or for another name sway bars.
So you get things correct first and then you add the WDH do you? That sounds like you are saying you get things "sitting right" first and then you add the WDH which will upset what you have done. I think you need to set the whole lot up as a package deal to to get things "sitting right."
My point precisely. Lots of 'jacks of all trade' but Masters of none.
Larry
Radar said
09:20 PM Dec 24, 2014
Hi Suerick
My apologies for not knowing enough about HR WD bars and I will graciously bow out and leave Deverall to guide you with his knowledge and full understanding of the matters relating to use of expensive bolt on safety devises.
Enjoy your travels and a merry Christmas. Ralph.
Radar said
09:49 PM Dec 24, 2014
PeterD wrote:
Radar wrote:I strongly believe you will at first need to make the tow vehicle and caravan feel comfortable when towing, sitting right, able to carry the load correctly before adding bolt on extra safety fixtures like WH bars or for another name sway bars.
So you get things correct first and then you add the WDH do you? That sounds like you are saying you get things "sitting right" first and then you add the WDH which will upset what you have done. I think you need to set the whole lot up as a package deal to to get things "sitting right."
And what part of the package did I leave out. The people are trying to set there tow vehicle and caravan up for the long haul not a annual holiday just up the road. Ralph.
PeterD said
11:46 PM Dec 24, 2014
Radar wrote:1. And what part of the package did I leave out.
2. The people are trying to set there tow vehicle and caravan up for the long haul not a annual holiday just up the road. Ralph.
1. I did not say you left anything out. The way I read your advice was to set up the rig so it towed properly and then you add "extra safety fixtures like WH bars or for another name sway bars." For starters sway bars is not another name for WDH. The WDH is not there to prevent sway, there are other devices designed to do that. The purpose of WDH is to distribute the ball weight over both axles. If you don't use WDH then you remove considerable weight from the front wheels and this weight is added to the weight carried as the result of the ball weight. This results in the rear axle liable to being overloaded particularly in vehicles that don't have much load carrying capacity like Cruisers. In addition Toyota state that a load level hitch is required with Cruisers and you stated in an earlier posting "I think you may not even need so called wdh bars as the wagon capabilities would be good enough, maybe a set of the less expensive stability bars would do to give you piece of mine."
In addition I always suspect that people who call WDH do not have a full appreciation of what WDH is. I have again posted the results of a HR demonstration of how the bars distribute weight across both axles of a van. If you do a little maths on the results you will see how there is much more weight on the rear axle when you don't use WDH.
2. It does not matter how far you are towing your van the rig needs the same set-up if it is to be safe.
Hi All
Possibly already been covered but can't find any information, when towing your caravan (with load levelling bars) are you supposed to be level or a little high or a little low. I have been given advise on all 3 and would like a correct answer. The tow vehicle is a 2013 land cruiser and the caravan is a supreme spirit lex (atm 2500kg), all advise welcome. Rick
They are not "load levelling bars". That is not their purpose.
It is a "Weight distribution hitch", the purpose of which is to transfer some of the load back onto the front wheels to ensure proper control.
The ride level of the van should be determined by the height of the ball and the height of the hitch.
Cheers,
Peter
Cheers
David
Does this look pretty level to the group? Kindly ignore the bride's back... Thanks
looks to be very well set up to me.
I measured my caravan chassis at the front and the back to get it level and then adjusted the hitch height so it was just below that.
When I hook the van on it sits with the front 20mm low and the ute is very close to level. Tows like a dream that way even going downhill which seems to be where a lot of rigs show some instability.
hope that helps
frank
For other information search using the term: "how to set up a hayman reese hitch"
Regards
Dave
Hi Rick & Welcome to the forum.
In my opinion, you aught to spend as much time as needed in reading and doing, to fully comprehend the information in D & D's link. In doing so you're setting up your rig correctly right from the start.
If you are not mechanically minded, then I suggest that you go back to the yard that where you purchased the van (or your local Hayman Reece Agent) and have them set it up for you & explain as they go.
Hi Suerick.
Welcome, I see you have a Toyota Landcruiser. Well I was sitting at the lights tonight there was 2 Toyotas both low at front and the back up. Now I then remembered the brother in laws Toyota was the same I nearly got into a debate with him about the way his wagon was sitting but then realized you don't debate with Toyota owners, he was trying to tell me it sat level on the road, yes after he dropped 250 kgs on the ball taking weight off the front if you know what I mean.
I do believe with your wagon with out the van it be higher at the back adding the van it may level it a bit but I doubt it will sit lower then the front unless you have over loaded the ball weight or rear of the wagon.
I think you may not even need so called wdh bars as the wagon capabilities would be good enough, maybe a set of the less expensive stability bars would do to give you piece of mine.
Yes I am know engineer or have a mechanical back ground. Have been involved in the transport industries all my working life. Ralph.
The instructions from Dave (D and D) are the way to go. When you have thing set for correct weight transfer the front of the van should be up to 50 mm low rather than up in the air for best results.
-- Edited by PeterD on Wednesday 24th of December 2014 08:59:52 AM
A trip to a Haymen Reese agent would give you an unbiased procedure.
Larry
Hi Deverall I would believe that information you would receive from H & R would be very biased towards there equipment, so you would still need to tread very lightly on there advice.
Yes maybe they can show you where you are not understanding there concept of the WD bars, check his qualifications, there real life experience apart from selling WD bars to unsuspecting buyers.
I strongly believe you will at first need to make the tow vehicle and caravan feel comfortable when towing, sitting right, able to carry the load correctly before adding bolt on extra safety fixtures like WH bars or for another name sway bars.
So you get things correct first and then you add the WDH do you? That sounds like you are saying you get things "sitting right" first and then you add the WDH which will upset what you have done. I think you need to set the whole lot up as a package deal to to get things "sitting right."
My point precisely. Lots of 'jacks of all trade' but Masters of none.
Larry
Hi Suerick
My apologies for not knowing enough about HR WD bars and I will graciously bow out and leave Deverall to guide you with his knowledge and full understanding of the matters relating to use of expensive bolt on safety devises.
Enjoy your travels and a merry Christmas. Ralph.
And what part of the package did I leave out. The people are trying to set there tow vehicle and caravan up for the long haul not a annual holiday just up the road. Ralph.
1. I did not say you left anything out. The way I read your advice was to set up the rig so it towed properly and then you add "extra safety fixtures like WH bars or for another name sway bars." For starters sway bars is not another name for WDH. The WDH is not there to prevent sway, there are other devices designed to do that. The purpose of WDH is to distribute the ball weight over both axles. If you don't use WDH then you remove considerable weight from the front wheels and this weight is added to the weight carried as the result of the ball weight. This results in the rear axle liable to being overloaded particularly in vehicles that don't have much load carrying capacity like Cruisers. In addition Toyota state that a load level hitch is required with Cruisers and you stated in an earlier posting "I think you may not even need so called wdh bars as the wagon capabilities would be good enough, maybe a set of the less expensive stability bars would do to give you piece of mine."
In addition I always suspect that people who call WDH do not have a full appreciation of what WDH is. I have again posted the results of a HR demonstration of how the bars distribute weight across both axles of a van. If you do a little maths on the results you will see how there is much more weight on the rear axle when you don't use WDH.
2. It does not matter how far you are towing your van the rig needs the same set-up if it is to be safe.