me again.... I have another question (surprise, surprise)
Can the HR WDH drop shank be used in the revers position? By that I mean can it point up and not down? I need to get my ball in a higher position than it is when the shank is inserted in the drop down position.
Yep, that's the idea. Multiple options to fit ant situations. No rule as ti which way is up. Whatever fits your requirement. Just make sure your van and cat are level.
Larry
D and D said
06:41 PM Dec 19, 2014
Just remember that if you have it pointed up you may not be able to open the tailgate of your ute.
Dave
revemike said
08:13 PM Dec 19, 2014
D and D wrote:
Just remember that if you have it pointed up you may not be able to open the tailgate of your ute.
Dave
Yes Dave I noticed that when I tested today. I will have to spend some time on a flat area to try different setups.
Dolly said
12:22 PM Dec 21, 2014
That's a big yes Mike.
Yours is the standard shank, like the one I had until I raised my Cruiser.
Being of one solid mould makes them very tough and reversible.
Now I use the 95 size to drop the van a little lower.
If anybody is thinking of dropping the van height do go with the 95 first instead of the 165 which I did
it nearly touched the ground. ( very deceptive )
Len
revemike said
03:13 PM Dec 21, 2014
Following on from this question...
I have spent some time today trying different setups. I have read that the height of the centre of the body of the ball coupling needs to be between 350mm and 460mm. The photos show the van and tow vehicles when the ball meets these requirements. To my eye it looks like the van and tug are not level... the back of the van appears too high. The height (with an empty load on the tug) is around 470mm.
When I reverse the shank and re-position the ball the hight of the centre of the ball coupling exceeds the requirements. That is it is around 550mm. The may drop when the vehicle is loaded.
I think I will have to wait until I get my tug fitted out and loaded up with payload before I finalise on the drop shank position.
Your 'van is low at the front (were your water tanks full ( 1 litre = 1 kg) which might make a difference. Also measure from the centre of the front wheel hub to the bottom of the wheel arch - with the van on or off - the gap between the two should be the same
revemike said
09:10 PM Dec 21, 2014
Bruce and Bev wrote:
Your 'van is low at the front (were your water tanks full ( 1 litre = 1 kg) which might make a difference. Also measure from the centre of the front wheel hub to the bottom of the wheel arch - with the van on or off - the gap between the two should be the same
I measured the distance when I set it all up and the difference was only 2mm once the WDH was in place. This picture however is without water in the tanks. I have 2x95 L tanks so that is going to add a lot of weight. I am pretty sure I will be reversing the drop shank.
The main concern is the fact that the coupling will be slightly too high to lower the rear door once hooked up. I am going to look around for a coupling that has a lower profile that will allow the door to be lowered connected.
Dolly said
01:46 PM Dec 22, 2014
Can't quite tell if you are using your WDH.
If not you may be able to lift the van a little more without overdoing the tug.
Failing that, I think if you turn the shank upwards it should fix the problem ...providing it does not interfere with the tailgate.
If that does work definately still use the WDH for added stability.
Dolly said
01:51 PM Dec 22, 2014
Woops, just had a closer look...yes you are using the WDH.
The rig does not look too bad as is. Maybe a little more weight up the back when travelling could be a fix.
TAJ said
08:08 PM Dec 22, 2014
try another link down the chain on the hitch does not look to bad as is
to much weight at the back of van from overloading not good
dont worry to much
TAJ
Explorer said
10:18 PM Dec 22, 2014
Mike Hi,
I have always believed that the safest way to tow was with both vehicles as level as possible.
I load both vehicles as to how I will be travelling, get the van level using the jockey wheel, measure the height of the tow vehicle front and rear ( I measure from the wheel rim to the top of wheel arch) You should do all of this on level ground I have a car park a couple k's away.Then set the ball to a corresponding height to the coupling.
Once You have hooked up You can then raise the rear of tow vehicle using Your WDH to as close as possible to the measurements taken earlier. I try & get front and rear within about 10mm of the original measurements. That should have the WDH working properly and as comefortable a ride as You can get.
A bit of messing around but only needed once or when You change anything like suspension, or van etc.
Mike.
PeterD said
09:45 AM Dec 23, 2014
Explorer wrote:I have always believed that the safest way to tow was with both vehicles as level as possible.
It's best if the van is a little down at the front, perhaps 50 mm or so.
With regards to the tug, a lot of utes are down at the rear when they are fully loaded and travelling solo. Why should the rear end be pulled up so they look level when the van is hitched? When you hitch the van the tow ball should be a bit lower than unhitched, it should be at the same height that it would be if you added the same weight as your ball weight directly over the rear axle. Bringing the ball height back to the same as when unhitched throws far too much weight on the front axle. The main dimension to observe is the front wheel height. Do what the HR instructions say, the front wheel arch should be brought back down to near the same height as when the van is unhitched. Too much weight on the front axle is just as dangerous as too little.
Regarding the tug being too low at the rear, this is most likely from the tug being overloaded or the rear springs. These problems should be attended to before hitching the van, not by the use of the WDH. Utes, sedans and station wagons are all designed to be loaded with the weight distributed evenly over the length of the vehicle. If there is no passengers in the rear seat that compartment should not be left empty but have some of the load in the foot-well. If you have a look at vehicle specifications you will note that there is very little difference between the unloaded and the maximum weight of the front axle in most of our tugs.
-- Edited by PeterD on Tuesday 23rd of December 2014 09:47:26 AM
revemike said
11:38 AM Dec 23, 2014
thanks for all the comments. I have one point of confusion (only one??? actually dozens)
If the van is designed as an off road van (as mine is) it is a lot higher off the ground that non-off road vans. Given that the regulations state that the height of the centre of the ball coupling need to remain between 350mm and 460mm how can this be achieved while maintaining a level van when the height of the coupling at the van's level state is higher than 460mm?
Crockie said
12:28 PM Dec 23, 2014
TAJ wrote:
try another link down the chain on the hitch does not look to bad as is
to much weight at the back of van from overloading not good
dont worry to much
TAJ
Hi TAJ, thats an interesting comment. I was told to count 4 links (not including the attachment U bolt and put the 5th on the tension stud. I might try the 4th link next trip.
I have my shank upright as there is enough room between the ute and the ground. Having a highrider may be a help after all.
Cheers and merry xmas
TAJ said
08:33 PM Dec 23, 2014
just measured my semi /off road about on the limit 440mm
460mm is pretty high off the ground
TAJ
revemike said
09:00 PM Dec 23, 2014
TAJ wrote:
just measured my semi /off road about on the limit 440mm
460mm is pretty high off the ground
TAJ
I will have to 'go back to the drawing board' .... Find a level are area and get my tape measure out again. I am clearly doing something wrong in my measurements.
PeterD said
10:13 PM Dec 25, 2014
revemike wrote:If the van is designed as an off road van (as mine is) it is a lot higher off the ground that non-off road vans. Given that the regulations state that the height of the centre of the ball coupling need to remain between 350mm and 460mm how can this be achieved while maintaining a level van when the height of the coupling at the van's level state is higher than 460mm?
The requirements for the height of ball couplings is in VSB 01. The relevant clause states:
"16.4.1: 50mm Ball Couplings
"Ball couplings used on trailers with an ATM that does not exceed 3.5 tonnes must comply with Australian Standard AS 4177.3-2004 Caravan and light trailer towing components Part 3: Coupling body for ball couplings.
"Ball couplings on towbars are required to be installed so that the height of the centre of the body of the ball coupling is between 350mm and 420mm from the ground when laden (Refer to ADR 62/01). Alternatively, if complying with the requirements of ADR 62/02 the maximum height of the centre of the body of the ball coupling may be increased to 460mm. However, the ball may be installed at any other height, provided it is also capable of being adjusted to at least one height within the 350-460mmrange."
As you are using a HR WDH the sentence I have highlighted with larger text applies to you.
SnowT said
11:08 AM Dec 26, 2014
Without going technical..
What ever works for you..
- Try to keep the Ball weight in the range you need..
- keep the load balanced so you don't lighten or overload the ball weight..
A well balanced van/ trailer is best...
-- if you store stuff in the ute try to keep the bulk of the weight to the cab of the ute and no beyond the centreline of the wheel..
juergen..
Psst also drive at a speed that you feel safe at....
J
revemike said
05:33 PM Dec 29, 2014
Thanks to all who have taken the time to respond to this question. I really do appreciate the help I get from this Forum.
revemike said
03:05 PM Jan 11, 2015
I have now had the drawers and canopy fitted and the rear of the vehicle loaded. I have hooked up the van and reversed the drop shank so that the ball is at the height it needs to be.
These are the photos of the setup after this has been done....
How does the level look? Bear in mind that the cab is currently empty. There will be around 250kg (including driver and passenger).
I have also included a shot of the rear leaf spring under load. It looks like there is very little room to move. It looks like I will not escape a suspension upgrade of some sort.
Photos of car-van post canopy and drawers fitting
-- Edited by revemike on Sunday 11th of January 2015 03:11:50 PM
Hi,
me again.... I have another question (surprise, surprise)
Can the HR WDH drop shank be used in the revers position? By that I mean can it point up and not down? I need to get my ball in a higher position than it is when the shank is inserted in the drop down position.
Thanks..
Larry
Dave
Yes Dave I noticed that when I tested today. I will have to spend some time on a flat area to try different setups.
Yours is the standard shank, like the one I had until I raised my Cruiser.
Being of one solid mould makes them very tough and reversible.
Now I use the 95 size to drop the van a little lower.
If anybody is thinking of dropping the van height do go with the 95 first instead of the 165 which I did
it nearly touched the ground. ( very deceptive )
Len
Following on from this question...
I have spent some time today trying different setups. I have read that the height of the centre of the body of the ball coupling needs to be between 350mm and 460mm. The photos show the van and tow vehicles when the ball meets these requirements. To my eye it looks like the van and tug are not level... the back of the van appears too high. The height (with an empty load on the tug) is around 470mm.
When I reverse the shank and re-position the ball the hight of the centre of the ball coupling exceeds the requirements. That is it is around 550mm. The may drop when the vehicle is loaded.
I think I will have to wait until I get my tug fitted out and loaded up with payload before I finalise on the drop shank position.
I measured the distance when I set it all up and the difference was only 2mm once the WDH was in place. This picture however is without water in the tanks. I have 2x95 L tanks so that is going to add a lot of weight. I am pretty sure I will be reversing the drop shank.
The main concern is the fact that the coupling will be slightly too high to lower the rear door once hooked up. I am going to look around for a coupling that has a lower profile that will allow the door to be lowered connected.
If not you may be able to lift the van a little more without overdoing the tug.
Failing that, I think if you turn the shank upwards it should fix the problem ...providing it does not interfere with the tailgate.
If that does work definately still use the WDH for added stability.
The rig does not look too bad as is. Maybe a little more weight up the back when travelling could be a fix.
try another link down the chain on the hitch does not look to bad as is
to much weight at the back of van from overloading not good
dont worry to much
TAJ
Mike Hi,
I have always believed that the safest way to tow was with both vehicles as level as possible.
I load both vehicles as to how I will be travelling, get the van level using the jockey wheel, measure the height of the tow vehicle front and rear ( I measure from the wheel rim to the top of wheel arch) You should do all of this on level ground I have a car park a couple k's away.Then set the ball to a corresponding height to the coupling.
Once You have hooked up You can then raise the rear of tow vehicle using Your WDH to as close as possible to the measurements taken earlier. I try & get front and rear within about 10mm of the original measurements. That should have the WDH working properly and as comefortable a ride as You can get.
A bit of messing around but only needed once or when You change anything like suspension, or van etc.
Mike.
It's best if the van is a little down at the front, perhaps 50 mm or so.
With regards to the tug, a lot of utes are down at the rear when they are fully loaded and travelling solo. Why should the rear end be pulled up so they look level when the van is hitched? When you hitch the van the tow ball should be a bit lower than unhitched, it should be at the same height that it would be if you added the same weight as your ball weight directly over the rear axle. Bringing the ball height back to the same as when unhitched throws far too much weight on the front axle. The main dimension to observe is the front wheel height. Do what the HR instructions say, the front wheel arch should be brought back down to near the same height as when the van is unhitched. Too much weight on the front axle is just as dangerous as too little.
Regarding the tug being too low at the rear, this is most likely from the tug being overloaded or the rear springs. These problems should be attended to before hitching the van, not by the use of the WDH. Utes, sedans and station wagons are all designed to be loaded with the weight distributed evenly over the length of the vehicle. If there is no passengers in the rear seat that compartment should not be left empty but have some of the load in the foot-well. If you have a look at vehicle specifications you will note that there is very little difference between the unloaded and the maximum weight of the front axle in most of our tugs.
-- Edited by PeterD on Tuesday 23rd of December 2014 09:47:26 AM
thanks for all the comments. I have one point of confusion (only one??? actually dozens)
If the van is designed as an off road van (as mine is) it is a lot higher off the ground that non-off road vans. Given that the regulations state that the height of the centre of the ball coupling need to remain between 350mm and 460mm how can this be achieved while maintaining a level van when the height of the coupling at the van's level state is higher than 460mm?
Hi TAJ, thats an interesting comment. I was told to count 4 links (not including the attachment U bolt and put the 5th on the tension stud. I might try the 4th link next trip.
I have my shank upright as there is enough room between the ute and the ground. Having a highrider may be a help after all.
Cheers and merry xmas
just measured my semi /off road about on the limit 440mm
460mm is pretty high off the ground
TAJ
I will have to 'go back to the drawing board' .... Find a level are area and get my tape measure out again. I am clearly doing something wrong in my measurements.
The requirements for the height of ball couplings is in VSB 01. The relevant clause states:
"16.4.1: 50mm Ball Couplings
"Ball couplings used on trailers with an ATM that does not exceed 3.5 tonnes must comply with
Australian Standard AS 4177.3-2004 Caravan and light trailer towing components Part 3: Coupling
body for ball couplings.
"Ball couplings on towbars are required to be installed so that the height of the centre of the body of
the ball coupling is between 350mm and 420mm from the ground when laden (Refer to ADR 62/01).
Alternatively, if complying with the requirements of ADR 62/02 the maximum height of the centre of
the body of the ball coupling may be increased to 460mm. However, the ball may be installed at
any other height, provided it is also capable of being adjusted to at least one height within the 350-460mm range."
As you are using a HR WDH the sentence I have highlighted with larger text applies to you.
What ever works for you..
- Try to keep the Ball weight in the range you need..
- keep the load balanced so you don't lighten or overload the ball weight..
A well balanced van/ trailer is best...
-- if you store stuff in the ute try to keep the bulk of the weight to the cab of the ute and no beyond the centreline of the wheel..
juergen..
Psst also drive at a speed that you feel safe at....
J
Thanks to all who have taken the time to respond to this question. I really do appreciate the help I get from this Forum.
I have now had the drawers and canopy fitted and the rear of the vehicle loaded. I have hooked up the van and reversed the drop shank so that the ball is at the height it needs to be.
These are the photos of the setup after this has been done....
How does the level look? Bear in mind that the cab is currently empty. There will be around 250kg (including driver and passenger).
I have also included a shot of the rear leaf spring under load. It looks like there is very little room to move. It looks like I will not escape a suspension upgrade of some sort.
Photos of car-van post canopy and drawers fitting
-- Edited by revemike on Sunday 11th of January 2015 03:11:50 PM
Mike what is the distance from the rear axle bump stop when;
1 unladen
2 laden tug only
3 laden van hitched up.
You will see how much "sag" occurs if you measure this. The photo can't be used as a guide.
Cheers baz
I will check this... Thanks.