I have a 2012 Grant Tourer van, fitted with an internal overload circuit. The only identifying writing on it is " Regis..JVL5... 240V..RCBO... N5257."
If I am on 240 power supply, and switch on the reverse cycle heater ( IBIS Aircommand ) the overload throws out in about 30 seconds and will continue to throw out. The same thing happens if I have a single 12 inch one bar heater turned on.
Question : is there a way of upgrading the throw out switch so that I can run the heaters without running the risk of the van burning down ? I'm thinking the current switch must either be too low or maybe defective ??
Thanks for any advice, and happy travels....
oldtrack123 said
12:27 PM Jun 13, 2014
Hi
It appears to be doing its job of protecting the wiring from overload .
Although it may be faulty, tripping at a lower current than it should
What else do you have running at the same time ?
What model number is the air con??
The fact that it takes around 30s to trip would indicate it is tripping on overload not an earth fauktf
What is the wattage rating of the bar heater.?
The Rcdmcbo cannot be changed to a larger current rating/size!
But if you suspect it is faulty, you will need a licensed electrician to check & replace if necessary
PeterQ
-- Edited by oldtrack123 on Friday 13th of June 2014 12:46:29 PM
Threadbare Bunny said
12:45 PM Jun 13, 2014
Thx Peter Q...
The only other appliance running is the Dometic fridge.... and the switch will throw out even if I put the fridge on gas setting... the 12" heater is 800 watts...cannot find a model # on the reverse cycle... I've spoken to a caravan guy this a.m. who stated I SHOULD be able to run a strip heater of at least 1,000 watts with no problems...he's given me the phone # of an electrician who will come out and check it for me... so, MAYBE problem solved... Just a point.. WHY can't they be upgraded to take a larger current ? Is it the restriction of wire core size ?
oldtrack123 said
12:53 PM Jun 13, 2014
Threadbare Bunny wrote:
Thx Peter Q...
The only other appliance running is the Dometic fridge.... and the switch will throw out even if I put the fridge on gas setting... the 12" heater is 800 watts...cannot find a model # on the reverse cycle... I've spoken to a caravan guy this a.m. who stated I SHOULD be able to run a strip heater of at least 1,000 watts with no problems...he's given me the phone # of an electrician who will come out and check it for me... so, MAYBE problem solved... Just a point.. WHY can't they be upgraded to take a larger current ? Is it the restriction of wire core size ?
HI
Yes, it does look like a faulty unit, the fridge* bar heater conmbined should be well within it's rating
Has it been working OK previously ?
It appears it may only be a 10A unit, What size power inlet socket & extension lead do you have?
It can not be encreased in rating, as it's whole purpose is to protect the van wiring, extension lead, etc, from overload & possible fire.
PeterQ
-- Edited by oldtrack123 on Friday 13th of June 2014 12:59:16 PM
TAJ said
07:49 PM Jun 13, 2014
my unit kept tripping found out it was the heater
element in hot water tank even when the tank was
turned off pulled the lead out and no problem so had
to install new element
suenray
Aus-Kiwi said
10:57 PM Jun 13, 2014
Try heater inside on house ? On a known reliable supply.. There may be moisture creating earth leakage to trip..
I would have thought there would be multiple circuits ? Hard wired like air con having its own CB /circuit..
oldtrack123 said
03:32 PM Jun 18, 2014
HI
The fact that it takes around 30s to trip, would indicate it is tripping on overload, not an earth fault.
Either way it sounds like a faulty unit. [RCDBO]
PeterQ
-- Edited by oldtrack123 on Wednesday 18th of June 2014 03:33:02 PM
-- Edited by oldtrack123 on Wednesday 18th of June 2014 03:35:24 PM
SnowT said
04:41 PM Jun 18, 2014
do NOT try to fix it your self..
If you have a fault in your van get it checked by an electrician..
Preferably someone you know..[should be cheaper]
Do not play with electrics if you don't know what your looking at.
-- Re heater try the on another power source to eliminate faulty with it..
-- Find every power point you can and have a look at EVERY power point for burn mark's..
-- Check the External Power Supply connection point..
You need to Eliminate Everything that plugs in..
If the Aircon trips out after 30sec... Sounds like a fault in the aircon unit..
juergen
Aus-Kiwi said
11:20 PM Jun 18, 2014
oldtrack123 wrote:
HI
The fact that it takes around 30s to trip, would indicate it is tripping on overload, not an earth fault.
Either way it sounds like a faulty unit. [RCDBO]
PeterQ
-- Edited by oldtrack123 on Wednesday 18th of June 2014 03:33:02 PM
-- Edited by oldtrack123 on Wednesday 18th of June 2014 03:35:24 PM
If its moisture it doesn't necessary trip instantly .. Range hoods have same issue at times..
Threadbare Bunny said
12:57 PM Jun 26, 2014
Thank you all for the input..I engaged a licenced electrician to have a look, and he not only found the bar heater faulty but also the overload unit was tripping out at half its rated load.
Unit replaced, heater in the bin and now we're cooking... thanks all again.
Baz421 said
01:18 PM Jun 26, 2014
Well you've solved the problem,, great,,, Oldtrack and later Aus-Kiwi were spot on the money with their advice.
oldtrack123 said
02:23 PM Jun 26, 2014
Threadbare Bunny wrote:
Thank you all for the input..I engaged a licenced electrician to have a look, and he not only found the bar heater faulty but also the overload unit was tripping out at half its rated load.
Unit replaced, heater in the bin and now we're cooking... thanks all again.
Hi all....
I have a 2012 Grant Tourer van, fitted with an internal overload circuit. The only identifying writing on it is " Regis..JVL5... 240V..RCBO... N5257."
If I am on 240 power supply, and switch on the reverse cycle heater ( IBIS Aircommand ) the overload throws out in about 30 seconds and will continue to throw out. The same thing happens if I have a single 12 inch one bar heater turned on.
Question : is there a way of upgrading the throw out switch so that I can run the heaters without running the risk of the van burning down ? I'm thinking the current switch must either be too low or maybe defective ??
Thanks for any advice, and happy travels....
Hi
It appears to be doing its job of protecting the wiring from overload .
Although it may be faulty, tripping at a lower current than it should
What else do you have running at the same time ?
What model number is the air con??
The fact that it takes around 30s to trip would indicate it is tripping on overload not an earth fauktf
What is the wattage rating of the bar heater.?
The Rcdmcbo cannot be changed to a larger current rating/size!
But if you suspect it is faulty, you will need a licensed electrician to check & replace if necessary
PeterQ
-- Edited by oldtrack123 on Friday 13th of June 2014 12:46:29 PM
The only other appliance running is the Dometic fridge.... and the switch will throw out even if I put the fridge on gas setting... the 12" heater is 800 watts...cannot find a model # on the reverse cycle... I've spoken to a caravan guy this a.m. who stated I SHOULD be able to run a strip heater of at least 1,000 watts with no problems...he's given me the phone # of an electrician who will come out and check it for me... so, MAYBE problem solved... Just a point.. WHY can't they be upgraded to take a larger current ? Is it the restriction of wire core size ?
HI
Yes, it does look like a faulty unit, the fridge* bar heater conmbined should be well within it's rating
Has it been working OK previously ?
It appears it may only be a 10A unit, What size power inlet socket & extension lead do you have?
It can not be encreased in rating, as it's whole purpose is to protect the van wiring, extension lead, etc, from overload & possible fire.
PeterQ
-- Edited by oldtrack123 on Friday 13th of June 2014 12:59:16 PM
my unit kept tripping found out it was the heater
element in hot water tank even when the tank was
turned off pulled the lead out and no problem so had
to install new element
suenray
I would have thought there would be multiple circuits ? Hard wired like air con having its own CB /circuit..
HI
The fact that it takes around 30s to trip, would indicate it is tripping on overload, not an earth fault.
Either way it sounds like a faulty unit. [RCDBO]
PeterQ
-- Edited by oldtrack123 on Wednesday 18th of June 2014 03:33:02 PM
-- Edited by oldtrack123 on Wednesday 18th of June 2014 03:35:24 PM
If you have a fault in your van get it checked by an electrician..
Preferably someone you know..[should be cheaper]
Do not play with electrics if you don't know what your looking at.
-- Re heater try the on another power source to eliminate faulty with it..
-- Find every power point you can and have a look at EVERY power point for burn mark's..
-- Check the External Power Supply connection point..
You need to Eliminate Everything that plugs in..
If the Aircon trips out after 30sec... Sounds like a fault in the aircon unit..
juergen
If its moisture it doesn't necessary trip instantly .. Range hoods have same issue at times..
Unit replaced, heater in the bin and now we're cooking... thanks all again.
Well you've solved the problem,, great,,, Oldtrack and later Aus-Kiwi were spot on the money with their advice.
HI
Thanks for the feedback
PeterQ