Does anyone know the amount of current the above mentioned fridge draws on 12Vdc. I've checked the instruction manual but no luck. Something tells me it's 150 watts but don't ask me where I got that figure from.
Many Thanks
oldtrack123 said
11:45 PM Apr 5, 2014
hako wrote:
Does anyone know the amount of current the above mentioned fridge draws on 12Vdc. I've checked the instruction manual but no luck. Something tells me it's 150 watts but don't ask me where I got that figure from.
Many Thanks
HI
Best if you can pos tthe model number
The wattage rating is usually the same as or slighly less than the 240V Watts rating
IF it is not in the manual both should be on the specifacation plate of the fridge itself ,possibly the rear.!
PeterQ
oldbobsbus said
06:33 AM Apr 6, 2014
My eduacated guess would be 125w, I base that on the fact that most Electrolux (Dometic) fridges used that element..
I no longer have all the parts and service manuals but I think you will find it is 125w..
GaryKelly said
07:58 AM Apr 6, 2014
125w rings a bell. I have an old gas/240 Electrolux.
ozjohn said
08:23 AM Apr 6, 2014
Around 10 - 11 amps. OJ
valiant81 said
08:59 AM Apr 6, 2014
Hi hako;
I too have a 90 Ltr Dometic fridge ( RM2350 ) and while the owners manual does not say what the current draw is on 12 Volts, the manual does say to use a 20 Amp fuse and to use 6mm cable. So useing Ohm's law, wattage = current x voltage, this equates to 12 Volts multiplyed by 20 Amps equals 240 watts.
So you have to have very heavy cabling for voltage drop and heavy connectors for the current. I have see these type of fridges flatten a good heavy duty battery in about 20~ 30.
-- Edited by valiant81 on Sunday 6th of April 2014 09:00:24 AM
hako said
09:05 AM Apr 6, 2014
Had a bigger search after the replies (thanks) - it's a model RM2350 which is pretty common and after removing the ventilation covers to no avail I found the info I needed just inside the door near the hinges. Apparently it's a 175watt element for both 240 and 12v and draws 15amps. That's quite a bit of power and fortunately I run it via an Anderson cable.
Next trip we'll been carrying a 50 litre fridge/freezer as well as we'll have a few frozen meals in there....might be more economical to turn the van fridge off and cram everything into the portable unit which uses 3.75 amps on high. Lots of stuff we carry in the van fridge really does not need to be refrigerated. All depends on how much free camping versus caravan parks we use.....
Thanks for all the replies.
Regards
tls1946 said
05:57 PM Apr 6, 2014
Dometic RM2350
Technical Data
Total volume (l)
90
Capacity (l)
80
Freezer volume (l)
10
Height (mm)
766
Width (mm)
550
Depth (mm)
565
Weight (kg)
26.5
Number of shelves
2
Total racks at inner door
3
Energy consumption gas (g/24h)
350
Max input 12V (W)
125
Max input 240V (W)
175
Max input gas (g/h)
13
hako said
08:33 PM Apr 6, 2014
tls1946 wrote:
Dometic RM2350
Technical Data
Total volume (l)
90
Capacity (l)
80
Freezer volume (l)
10
Height (mm)
766
Width (mm)
550
Depth (mm)
565
Weight (kg)
26.5
Number of shelves
2
Total racks at inner door
3
Energy consumption gas (g/24h)
350
Max input 12V (W)
125
Max input 240V (W)
175
Max input gas (g/h)
13
Must be different models - this is a pic of the specs on the fridge:
Thanks for the input tls1946
Regards
-- Edited by hako on Sunday 6th of April 2014 08:35:40 PM
Baz421 said
09:25 PM Apr 8, 2014
ozjohn wrote:
Around 10 - 11 amps. OJ
I was going to say 12-15 depending on battery voltage, as I had an old Chescold (now rebranded)
oldtrack123 said
11:34 PM Apr 12, 2014
HI Hako
Thanks, with that pic, we can tell you exacty, with a 12V input it will draw 14.58A
if on all day[24hrs ] it will draw 349.92Ahrs. which is why it does not make sense to try to run them from a battery unless the engine is running & /'or the battery being charged at better than 15A.
PeterQ
.
-- Edited by oldtrack123 on Saturday 12th of April 2014 11:36:32 PM
oldbobsbus said
06:49 AM Apr 13, 2014
The info that Peter has given is 100% correct, however as it is thermostatically controlled and if you were to be sure your fridge is reasonably full at all times even if it means adding water bottles to fill empty spaces you can expect it to use considerably lees power over a 24hr period.
But I suggest you work on Peters figures to be sure you are covered at all times..
hako said
08:27 AM Apr 13, 2014
oldbobsbus wrote:
The info that Peter has given is 100% correct, however as it is thermostatically controlled and if you were to be sure your fridge is reasonably full at all times even if it means adding water bottles to fill empty spaces you can expect it to use considerably lees power over a 24hr period.
But I suggest you work on Peters figures to be sure you are covered at all times..
G'Day Bob, apparently when operating on 12V the element is not thermostatically controlled....only on 240v despite the elements consuming the same power.
Regards
oldbobsbus said
08:50 AM Apr 13, 2014
hako wrote:
oldbobsbus wrote:
The info that Peter has given is 100% correct, however as it is thermostatically controlled and if you were to be sure your fridge is reasonably full at all times even if it means adding water bottles to fill empty spaces you can expect it to use considerably lees power over a 24hr period.
But I suggest you work on Peters figures to be sure you are covered at all times..
G'Day Bob, apparently when operating on 12V the element is not thermostatically controlled....only on 240v despite the elements consuming the same power.
Regards
You have a point there Dennis and like Peter you are correct..
I guess if the OP wanted to he could use the 240v thermo for the 12v circuit but it would mean losing the 240v facility.. having said that he would need someone that knew what they were doing to rewire it for him ..
Another thought is that I could supply him a separate thermo and he could get it wired in to the 12v circuit... maybe not worth the trouble..lol..
-- Edited by oldbobsbus on Sunday 13th of April 2014 08:52:54 AM
Does anyone know the amount of current the above mentioned fridge draws on 12Vdc. I've checked the instruction manual but no luck. Something tells me it's 150 watts but don't ask me where I got that figure from.
Many Thanks
HI
Best if you can pos tthe model number
The wattage rating is usually the same as or slighly less than the 240V Watts rating
IF it is not in the manual both should be on the specifacation plate of the fridge itself ,possibly the rear.!
PeterQ
I no longer have all the parts and service manuals but I think you will find it is 125w..
Around 10 - 11 amps.
OJ
Hi hako;
I too have a 90 Ltr Dometic fridge ( RM2350 ) and while the owners manual does not say what the current draw is on 12 Volts, the manual does say to use a 20 Amp fuse and to use 6mm cable. So useing Ohm's law, wattage = current x voltage, this equates to 12 Volts multiplyed by 20 Amps equals 240 watts.
So you have to have very heavy cabling for voltage drop and heavy connectors for the current. I have see these type of fridges flatten a good heavy duty battery in about 20~ 30.
-- Edited by valiant81 on Sunday 6th of April 2014 09:00:24 AM
Next trip we'll been carrying a 50 litre fridge/freezer as well as we'll have a few frozen meals in there....might be more economical to turn the van fridge off and cram everything into the portable unit which uses 3.75 amps on high. Lots of stuff we carry in the van fridge really does not need to be refrigerated. All depends on how much free camping versus caravan parks we use.....
Thanks for all the replies.
Regards
Dometic RM2350
13
Must be different models - this is a pic of the specs on the fridge:
Thanks for the input tls1946
Regards
-- Edited by hako on Sunday 6th of April 2014 08:35:40 PM
I was going to say 12-15 depending on battery voltage, as I had an old Chescold (now rebranded)
HI Hako
Thanks, with that pic, we can tell you exacty, with a 12V input it will draw 14.58A
if on all day[24hrs ] it will draw 349.92Ahrs. which is why it does not make sense to try to run them from a battery unless the engine is running & /'or the battery being charged at better than 15A.
PeterQ
.
-- Edited by oldtrack123 on Saturday 12th of April 2014 11:36:32 PM
The info that Peter has given is 100% correct, however as it is thermostatically controlled and if you were to be sure your fridge is reasonably full at all times even if it means adding water bottles to fill empty spaces you can expect it to use considerably lees power over a 24hr period.
But I suggest you work on Peters figures to be sure you are covered at all times..
G'Day Bob, apparently when operating on 12V the element is not thermostatically controlled....only on 240v despite the elements consuming the same power.
Regards
You have a point there Dennis and like Peter you are correct..
I guess if the OP wanted to he could use the 240v thermo for the 12v circuit but it would mean losing the 240v facility.. having said that he would need someone that knew what they were doing to rewire it for him ..
Another thought is that I could supply him a separate thermo and he could get it wired in to the 12v circuit... maybe not worth the trouble..lol..
-- Edited by oldbobsbus on Sunday 13th of April 2014 08:52:54 AM