Just looking at the 2013 Pajero, they quoted $180.00 for the lift.
I like the modified version as shown here on the handle.
Dick.
aussie_paul said
12:46 PM Mar 31, 2014
I got a price from Mitsubishi Melb, $115. I bought on Ebay delivered $111.95. My daughter was going to pick the Ebay item up from the $115 Mitsu shop BUT could not work out to pay without freight, so for the $14 freight I just had then freight it.
I would love to be able to modify the hitch but too difficult for me these days, I would normally have done something like that mod before my accident!!!!
At least now we can open the rear door with every trailer I tow.
Aussie Paul.
Sparkster said
03:29 PM Mar 31, 2014
Just a word of caution here.
The Spare Tyre Lift is not always the answer.
As can be seen from Aussie Pauls' first photo the bottom of the door is very close to the coupling lift handle and this is often the reason for the original problem, not always the spare being too low.
For those who are handy (still) the best and cheapest method is the modification in WAssa41s' photos. It is a very easy mod. and will give instant access.
Other lower profile couplings can give the same result and in fact I have used the AL-KO off road coupling but eventually modified the "standard" coupling on our new van which is much easier to use and costs about $10 (or some garage scrap) compared to the $250 for the AL-KO O/Road coupling.
Keith....
littledick said
05:15 PM Mar 31, 2014
WAssa41 wrote:
My mate made this for his navara and a second mate did the same for his Pajero. Did'bit cost as much
WAssa, is the cross bolt inserted where the pin holds the handle onto the spring loaded bar.
If so. how do you prevent it from dropping or am I missing something?
As stated previously,I don't think the spare lift sufficient.
This looks good!
Thanks.
Dick.
WAssa41 said
09:58 AM Apr 1, 2014
The locking clip is still there.
littledick said
10:33 AM Apr 1, 2014
WAssa41 wrote:
The locking clip is still there.
More info please WAssa, if pin still in, was another hole drilled for the bolt to hold the handle
ie above or below the pin.
I wish to do the same.
With thanks.
Dick.
Sparkster said
12:30 PM Apr 1, 2014
littledick,
The method is to put a spare ball in the coupling and drive the pin out.
The ball is put in so that when you drive the pin out all the "bits" don't fall on the ground.
Having already fabricated the new handle hold it in place and slide the appropriate size bolt in where you knocked the pin out and tighten the bolt.
Bingo job done!
I used a stainless steel bolt with nylon lock nut to replace the pin, aluminium strap for the handle "riser" and a piece of booker rod with plastic hose over it as a handle and nylon lock nuts on each end. Spray it all silver (except the plastic handle) and it looks like a bought one.
Keith....
-- Edited by Sparkster on Tuesday 1st of April 2014 12:46:42 PM
The method is to put a spare ball in the coupling and drive the pin out.
The ball is put in so that when you drive the pin out all the "bits" don't fall on the ground.
Having already fabricated the new handle hold it in place and slide the appropriate size bolt in where you knocked the pin out and tighten the bolt.
Bingo job done!
I used a stainless steel bolt with nylon lock nut to replace the pin, aluminium strap for the handle "riser" and a piece of booker rod with plastic hose over it as a handle and nylon lock nuts on each end. Spray it all silver (except the plastic handle) and it looks like a bought one.
Keith....
-- Edited by Sparkster on Tuesday 1st of April 2014 12:46:42 PM
Very nice job Keith..
Aussie Paul.
littledick said
02:06 PM Apr 1, 2014
Thanks Keith, I have already completed and not a bolt to be seen.
I cut a 100mm piece off a gal tent pole, put a flat piece of 12mm through and shaped as your photo.
Not a bolt to be seen as I used 2 philips head blind bolts on a 50mm thread, similar to the type used for securing
Microwave ovens in vans (under shelf) mine was left over as used for joining office and computer workstations together.
I did not pull the pin out I just drilled a hole above it.
I am sure I have at least one mate who will copy.
Thanks for your original post to give me the insentive.
I have not cut the original handle off yet as waiting untill I get the new Paj.
Dick.
Sparkster said
02:42 PM Apr 1, 2014
I guess it's whatever floats your boat Dick.
I thought it was a lot easier not to have to drill more holes.
Yes I'm sure more will copy it as the problem also exists on Prado's and Patrols but I'm not sure to what extent.
A picture of yours may be handy for others (and me).
Good luck with the new Paj.
Keith....
littledick said
03:42 PM Apr 2, 2014
I will try photo that's no problem, it's finding it in the computer after.
$111.95 and an hours work and we can now open the Pajero rear door while still connected!!!!
Aussie Paul.
Tomorrow.
Aussie Paul.
-- Edited by aussie_paul on Sunday 30th of March 2014 02:55:25 PM
-- Edited by aussie_paul on Sunday 30th of March 2014 02:58:20 PM
Just looking at the 2013 Pajero, they quoted $180.00 for the lift.
I like the modified version as shown here on the handle.
Dick.
I got a price from Mitsubishi Melb, $115. I bought on Ebay delivered $111.95. My daughter was going to pick the Ebay item up from the $115 Mitsu shop BUT could not work out to pay without freight, so for the $14 freight I just had then freight it.
I would love to be able to modify the hitch but too difficult for me these days, I would normally have done something like that mod before my accident!!!!
At least now we can open the rear door with every trailer I tow.
Aussie Paul.
Just a word of caution here.
The Spare Tyre Lift is not always the answer.
As can be seen from Aussie Pauls' first photo the bottom of the door is very close to the coupling lift handle and this is often the reason for the original problem, not always the spare being too low.
For those who are handy (still) the best and cheapest method is the modification in WAssa41s' photos. It is a very easy mod. and will give instant access.
Other lower profile couplings can give the same result and in fact I have used the AL-KO off road coupling but eventually modified the "standard" coupling on our new van which is much easier to use and costs about $10 (or some garage scrap) compared to the $250 for the AL-KO O/Road coupling.
Keith....
WAssa, is the cross bolt inserted where the pin holds the handle onto the spring loaded bar.
If so. how do you prevent it from dropping or am I missing something?
As stated previously,I don't think the spare lift sufficient.
This looks good!
Thanks.
Dick.
The locking clip is still there.
More info please WAssa, if pin still in, was another hole drilled for the bolt to hold the handle
ie above or below the pin.
I wish to do the same.
With thanks.
Dick.
littledick,
The method is to put a spare ball in the coupling and drive the pin out.
The ball is put in so that when you drive the pin out all the "bits" don't fall on the ground.
Having already fabricated the new handle hold it in place and slide the appropriate size bolt in where you knocked the pin out and tighten the bolt.
Bingo job done!
I used a stainless steel bolt with nylon lock nut to replace the pin, aluminium strap for the handle "riser" and a piece of booker rod with plastic hose over it as a handle and nylon lock nuts on each end. Spray it all silver (except the plastic handle) and it looks like a bought one.
Keith....
-- Edited by Sparkster on Tuesday 1st of April 2014 12:46:42 PM
Very nice job Keith..
Aussie Paul.
Thanks Keith, I have already completed and not a bolt to be seen.
I cut a 100mm piece off a gal tent pole, put a flat piece of 12mm through and shaped as your photo.
Not a bolt to be seen as I used 2 philips head blind bolts on a 50mm thread, similar to the type used for securing
Microwave ovens in vans (under shelf) mine was left over as used for joining office and computer workstations together.
I did not pull the pin out I just drilled a hole above it.
I am sure I have at least one mate who will copy.
Thanks for your original post to give me the insentive.
I have not cut the original handle off yet as waiting untill I get the new Paj.
Dick.
I guess it's whatever floats your boat Dick.
I thought it was a lot easier not to have to drill more holes.
Yes I'm sure more will copy it as the problem also exists on Prado's and Patrols but I'm not sure to what extent.
A picture of yours may be handy for others (and me).
Good luck with the new Paj.
Keith....
I will try photo that's no problem, it's finding it in the computer after.
Not always easy on my setup.
Dick.