How best to remove an anode from a hot water service thats been into long?
Wandering Whitfields said
12:29 PM Mar 18, 2014
I left the anode in our HWS in our Jayco Starcraft a bit long. So far I have put WD40 on it and tried nudging it. I thought it may break off.
Any hints would be appreciated thanks..Daryl
Baz421 said
12:36 PM Mar 18, 2014
Try Penetrene,,, spray apcks now avaialable at Repco about $13 I think.
"Flood" the area around the thread and leave overnight.
Undo next day, bearing in mind they can be hard to "crack" the thread at first.
Cheers Baz
brian said
12:55 PM Mar 18, 2014
You are unlikely to break it off. A little more elbow grease may be needed, and don't be afraid to turn it a bit both ways to loosen it.
woolman said
01:00 PM Mar 18, 2014
Get a socket or ring spanner on the fitting and give a sharp tap with a hammer. Hold firm as to undo a bit in from end then hit out on end to assist the pulling pressure. Will have much more effect than just pulling. Don't put your finger between hammer and ring spanner as it will soften the hit, among other issues. Better with a larger hammer rather than a little tack hammer.
Good luck
Wandering Whitfields said
01:01 PM Mar 18, 2014
Thank you bazza. I cracked it and covered myself with crap. I guess I should have emptied the tank first . The anode was well and truly stuffed . Next time I will inspect it every 6 months like I was told to.
Baz421 said
08:56 PM Mar 18, 2014
Wandering Whitfields wrote:
Thank you bazza. I cracked it and covered myself with crap. I guess I should have emptied the tank first . The anode was well and truly stuffed . Next time I will inspect it every 6 months like I was told to.
Don't forget to use white teflon thread tape on new anode, ensuring the tape is on all the thread, easier to get out that way.
Aus-Kiwi said
10:10 PM Mar 18, 2014
Some pipe graphite grease wouldn't hurt on threads ..
oldtrack123 said
11:51 PM Mar 18, 2014
Baz421 wrote: Don't forget to use white teflon thread tape on new anode, ensuring the tape is on all the thread, easier to get out that way.
HI
That might help the anode last forever
PeterQ
brian said
09:20 AM Mar 19, 2014
oldtrack123 wrote:
Baz421 wrote: Don't forget to use white teflon thread tape on new anode, ensuring the tape is on all the thread, easier to get out that way.
HI
That might help the anode last forever
PeterQ
Hmmm... Suburban say that Teflon tape MUST be used when fitting the new anode, and that it won't affect the electrical continuity of the circuit.
What do you know that they don't?
patrol03 said
11:17 AM Mar 19, 2014
There was no teflon tape on mine when fitted from new.Ian
PJK said
12:02 PM Mar 19, 2014
I think it was a play on words.
You need to put the teflon tape on the "thread" section, not the "anode" itself.
PJK
oldtrack123 said
06:33 PM Mar 19, 2014
HI Brian
I am sure you know that the anode support has to to have good electrical contact to the HW cistern shell
That is required for for sacrifical anode, cathodic protection to work.
It requires a closed circuit via the water
Th eanode's purpose is to protect any small defects/ holes in the liner ,from leading to corossion of the shell
It is also a very low voltage output, so Heavy taping of the thread COULD insulate the anode from the steel shell
IF the threads do not makeelectrical contact , how can the anode function ??
OR do you know something??
A small amount of tape on the last of the treads is usually ok
BUT always a good idea when using tape to insure there is metal to metal contact
PeterQ
-- Edited by oldtrack123 on Wednesday 19th of March 2014 06:34:26 PM
-- Edited by oldtrack123 on Wednesday 19th of March 2014 06:38:58 PM
-- Edited by oldtrack123 on Wednesday 19th of March 2014 06:43:13 PM
Cloak said
07:05 PM Mar 19, 2014
Yes the outer band of the electron clouds must be able to swap electrons.
So the metals must be touching.
Jeez that subject was 40 years ago nearly.
brian said
08:23 PM Mar 19, 2014
oldtrack123 wrote:
HI Brian
I am sure you know that the anode support has to to have good electrical contact to the HW cistern shell
That is required for for sacrifical anode, cathodic protection to work.
It requires a closed circuit via the water
Th eanode's purpose is to protect any small defects/ holes in the liner ,from leading to corossion of the shell
It is also a very low voltage output, so Heavy taping of the thread COULD insulate the anode from the steel shell
IF the threads do not makeelectrical contact , how can the anode function ??
OR do you know something??
A small amount of tape on the last of the treads is usually ok
BUT always a good idea when using tape to insure there is metal to metal contact
PeterQ
-- Edited by oldtrack123 on Wednesday 19th of March 2014 06:43:13 PM
Having worked with cathodic protection systems for over 40 years, I'm satisfied that I have a passing knowledge of the principles of operation.
First point is that the anode nut and its female counterpart in the tank have tapered threads, this means that the further you screw them together, the tighter they become.
It is therefore nigh on impossible to tightly couple teflon taped tapered threads without the teflon being removed from the rear flanks of the threadform and deposited between the crests and the roots, and this is what the tape is intended to do and is where water will trek if possible.
As the nut tightens, the teflon will be removed from the trailing edges of the thread as this is where the load is applied, and this is where the electrical contact will be made.
Teflon also has lubricating properties which will make assembly and dis-assembly that much easier.
Second point is that the manufacturer of the tank tells us to use it, so who are we to argue?
The ONLY manufacturer of lined steel tanks that does not recommend the use of teflon tape on their anodes is Solahart, and that is because they employ a non-tapered thread with a dual O ring seal.
If you are really concerned about the contact, then put an Ohm meter across the nut and the tank shell immediately after inserting the anode before filling with water, if the reading is a bit high, give the nut another tweak.
brian said
08:27 PM Mar 19, 2014
Cloak wrote:
Yes the outer band of the electron clouds must be able to swap electrons.
So the metals must be touching.
Jeez that subject was 40 years ago nearly.
The term "Valence electrons" may refresh your memory.
Cloak said
08:45 PM Mar 19, 2014
Thanks Brian it's slowly coming back.
Ions see that just popped into my head.
I'll be dreaming about them now...
oldtrack123 said
10:30 PM Mar 19, 2014
brian wrote: snip------------
[a]
Second point is that the manufacturer of the tank tells us to use it, so who are we to argue?
If you are really concerned about the contact, then put an Ohm meter across the nut and the tank shell immediately after inserting the anode before filling with water, if the reading is a bit high, give the nut another tweak.
HI Brian
[a]I am not arguing against the use of teflon tape but warning that excess use can lead to problems, especially IF the connections is only tightened to the non leaking stage
Of course the advantage of a tapered thread is it's inherent better sealing capablity, but it still often needs a little thread sealer
After all it is not a high pressure connection [30 to 40PSI in most cases]
YES
that was my point with"
"BUT always a good idea when using tape to insure there is metal to metal contact"
Much better than finding out too late, that the anode was not doing much in the way of protection
I left the anode in our HWS in our Jayco Starcraft a bit long. So far I have put WD40 on it and tried nudging it.
I thought it may break off.
Any hints would be appreciated thanks..Daryl
Try Penetrene,,, spray apcks now avaialable at Repco about $13 I think.
"Flood" the area around the thread and leave overnight.
Undo next day, bearing in mind they can be hard to "crack" the thread at first.
Cheers Baz
You are unlikely to break it off. A little more elbow grease may be needed, and don't be afraid to turn it a bit both ways to loosen it.
Get a socket or ring spanner on the fitting and give a sharp tap with a hammer. Hold firm as to undo a bit in from end then hit out on end to assist the pulling pressure. Will have much more effect than just pulling. Don't put your finger between hammer and ring spanner as it will soften the hit, among other issues. Better with a larger hammer rather than a little tack hammer.
Good luck
Thank you bazza. I cracked it and covered myself with crap. I guess I should have emptied the tank first . The anode was well and truly stuffed . Next time I will inspect it every 6 months like I was told to.
Don't forget to use white teflon thread tape on new anode, ensuring the tape is on all the thread, easier to get out that way.
HI
That might help the anode last forever
PeterQ
Hmmm... Suburban say that Teflon tape MUST be used when fitting the new anode, and that it won't affect the electrical continuity of the circuit.
What do you know that they don't?
You need to put the teflon tape on the "thread" section, not the "anode" itself.
PJK
HI Brian
I am sure you know that the anode support has to to have good electrical contact to the HW cistern shell
That is required for for sacrifical anode, cathodic protection to work.
It requires a closed circuit via the water
Th eanode's purpose is to protect any small defects/ holes in the liner ,from leading to corossion of the shell
It is also a very low voltage output, so Heavy taping of the thread COULD insulate the anode from the steel shell
IF the threads do not makeelectrical contact , how can the anode function ??
OR do you know something??
A small amount of tape on the last of the treads is usually ok
BUT always a good idea when using tape to insure there is metal to metal contact
PeterQ
-- Edited by oldtrack123 on Wednesday 19th of March 2014 06:34:26 PM
-- Edited by oldtrack123 on Wednesday 19th of March 2014 06:38:58 PM
-- Edited by oldtrack123 on Wednesday 19th of March 2014 06:43:13 PM
So the metals must be touching.
Jeez that subject was 40 years ago nearly.
Having worked with cathodic protection systems for over 40 years, I'm satisfied that I have a passing knowledge of the principles of operation.
First point is that the anode nut and its female counterpart in the tank have tapered threads, this means that the further you screw them together, the tighter they become.
It is therefore nigh on impossible to tightly couple teflon taped tapered threads without the teflon being removed from the rear flanks of the threadform and deposited between the crests and the roots, and this is what the tape is intended to do and is where water will trek if possible.
As the nut tightens, the teflon will be removed from the trailing edges of the thread as this is where the load is applied, and this is where the electrical contact will be made.
Teflon also has lubricating properties which will make assembly and dis-assembly that much easier.
Second point is that the manufacturer of the tank tells us to use it, so who are we to argue?
The ONLY manufacturer of lined steel tanks that does not recommend the use of teflon tape on their anodes is Solahart, and that is because they employ a non-tapered thread with a dual O ring seal.
If you are really concerned about the contact, then put an Ohm meter across the nut and the tank shell immediately after inserting the anode before filling with water, if the reading is a bit high, give the nut another tweak.
The term "Valence electrons" may refresh your memory.
Ions see that just popped into my head.
I'll be dreaming about them now...
HI Brian
[a]I am not arguing against the use of teflon tape but warning that excess use can lead to problems, especially IF the connections is only tightened to the non leaking stage
Of course the advantage of a tapered thread is it's inherent better sealing capablity, but it still often needs a little thread sealer
After all it is not a high pressure connection [30 to 40PSI in most cases]
YES
that was my point with"
"BUT always a good idea when using tape to insure there is metal to metal contact"
Much better than finding out too late, that the anode was not doing much in the way of protection
PeterQ
PeterQ