We have taken delivery of our new van and are attempting to fit a Hayman Reece Load distribution Hitch but there is a problem with installing the unit. We have a tool box and 2 gas bottles sitting on the drawbar and therefore unable to install the hitch such that the chains hang vertically.
Has anyone had this problem? We have come up with a solution but we would like to be sure it is OK. The photo below shows how we have used a D link to enable the chain to be vertical. The first photo shows the angle of the chain necessary due to the placement of the hitch on the drawbar and the second photo shows how the chain can be vertical if we use a D link. The links are purely temporary until we purchase the correct sized link.
Ron, if it was me I would be going back to who ever sold you these and ask for assistance as the way you have them hooked up looks like they serve no purpose. The idea behind the weight distribution hitch is to do as it suggests, distribute the weight. Now what you have done may keep the chain vertical, but the chain is fixed to the bar for a reason and the use of a couple of "D" shackles regardless of their strength would deem the bar ineffective as they would slip and if stopped, by some RTA inspector you might get a defect?? Just my opinion and others on the site might see it differently. The following may assist, and is from Hayman Reese. Good Luck Mate hope the problem can get solved.
Note: On some caravan applications the gas bottle (or other accessories) may need relocation if the chain does not hang vertical.
How much weight should I put on the bars? or Which link should I use?
Whilst there is no answer to suit everyone we do have some good guidelines to follow. Firstly the spring bars should be under a good deal of pressure. It should take some amount of effort to hitch up the snap up bracket and there must be a need to use the handle. Secondly we would like to see a little bit of bend in the bar when under load to satisfy us they are working
Remember, if they have no weight on them they will not be transferring weight forward to the cars front wheels and therefore not doing the job you purchased them for. Thirdly, the number of links can be tricky to calculate depending upon the rigs tow height, mount position of the coupling and set up of the Ballmount. Hayman Reese specify the minimum number of working links to be four. These are the chain links actually under load. At least four are required to give the spring bar the scope it needs to move forwards and backwards when you turn a corner. Hardings will aim for at least five working links so that you have the option of adjustment whilst on your trip.
-- Edited by copper1 on Saturday 21st of December 2013 11:06:11 PM
sandsmere said
07:54 AM Dec 22, 2013
I agree with copper . If it's not fitted properly it wont work properly .
You may have to make some changes to the draw bar , but that's not a big deal .
ozjohn said
08:06 AM Dec 22, 2013
A Pic from above would assist greatly. OJ
rockylizard said
09:11 AM Dec 22, 2013
Gday...
Perhaps relocate the jockey wheel mount forward so the HR WDH bracket can be mounted between it and the gas bottle support.
Cheers - John
Olley46 said
09:51 AM Dec 22, 2013
Hi Molluscan
You have only one choice to fit your. WDH. and that is to shift your jockey wheel mounting bracket and a frame cross brace forward towards your coupling just as Rocklizard ,said, that is going by your pictures ,your pictures are a NO NO .
Lance C
Baz421 said
10:06 AM Dec 22, 2013
Hi we had the same problem,,, as set up by manufacturer the chains ASSISTED body roll when going around corners (ie they were very tight on the inside of the corner),,, changed the opposite (tight chains on outside of corner) to limit body roll and still not 100%.
Our solution was to manufacture plates for each side that sit over the top of the chassis with bolts to hold in place without drilling holes in chassis.
I'll take a photo for you ASAP.
Baz421 said
10:24 AM Dec 22, 2013
OK photos here for you,,
First one shows A frame and original mount section in middle of the plate and the others different views.
You can have the plates manufactured to fit around any obstacle and the beaty of this is you move them to fine tune adjustment if required.
Yeh, that's a good job Baz hopefully, that will assist Ron with his problem.
Vanderee said
11:14 AM Dec 22, 2013
Years ago I had a torsion bar system(round hi tensile 1 !/2 ") which( slid inside tubes) on the tow bar
(positive front wheel weight transfer, and anti sway system). Even that system created unstability, and in the end I
fitted heavy duty bolt on helper springs to the rear springs of the tow vehicle. With low tension on the anti sway bars it made driving a dream,
and stability was great. Too much front wheel weight transfer is not the answer to safe towing.
-- Edited by Vanderee on Sunday 22nd of December 2013 11:19:38 AM
Olley46 said
03:49 PM Dec 22, 2013
Baz421 wrote:
OK photos here for you,,
First one shows A frame and original mount section in middle of the plate and the others different views.
You can have the plates manufactured to fit around any obstacle and the beaty of this is you move them to fine tune adjustment if required.
Hope this helps
Cheers Baz
Hi Baz421
That set up of yours is a great way of overcoming Molluscan problem,that would be one of the best ways to fix his problem,well done Baz421, you want to put a pation on that great work .
lance C
rockylizard said
07:32 PM Dec 22, 2013
Gday...
Foolishly stickin' me neck out a bit here ... but - going on the photos put up by Molluscan wouldn't the 'bracket' Baz has devised still be in the way of the existing jockey wheel mounting on Molluscan's A-frame. The jockey wheel and mounting bracket are centrally located on the 'central brace' on Baz's A-frame.
It certainly would negate the interference of the 'central brace' on the A-Frame (if Molluscan has one).
Hopefully Molluscan can provide some clarification and shoot me down in flames.
Cheers - John
Baz421 said
09:26 PM Dec 22, 2013
rockylizard wrote:
Gday...
Foolishly stickin' me neck out a bit here ... but - going on the photos put up by Molluscan wouldn't the 'bracket' Baz has devised still be in the way of the existing jockey wheel mounting on Molluscan's A-frame. The jockey wheel and mounting bracket are centrally located on the 'central brace' on Baz's A-frame.
It certainly would negate the interference of the 'central brace' on the A-Frame (if Molluscan has one).
Hopefully Molluscan can provide some clarification and shoot me down in flames.
Cheers - John
Hi John my bracket has the back cut out,,, so it would be the same here. Cheers Baz PS see photo 4 for a view of the back
PeterD said
09:27 PM Dec 22, 2013
John, from what I can see the jockey wheel mounting cross member are in similar positions. It's just a simple matter of cutting out the piece to accommodate the cross member to suit the position of that member. The cut-out does not have to be right in the middle as in the one Baz constructed.
There was another solution posted at the end of November. It involves a rolled hollow section (RHS) that is clamped to the top of the drawbar - see this link - it also gives you an extra working link in the chains.
ParamountCruiser said
07:26 AM Dec 23, 2013
The WDH bars are available in two lengths, 28" & 30". If your bars are 30" the 28" bars would assist but may not totally solve the problem.
Due to gas bottle position we have to use the 28" bars.
patrolst said
01:18 PM Dec 24, 2013
Take the whole rig and bars you have to the nearest Hayman Reece dealer/outlet and get them to set it up properly.
Why did the caravan dealer let you drive away with the incorrect set up?
03_troopy said
01:40 PM Dec 24, 2013
PeterD wrote:
John, from what I can see the jockey wheel mounting cross member are in similar positions. It's just a simple matter of cutting out the piece to accommodate the cross member to suit the position of that member. The cut-out does not have to be right in the middle as in the one Baz constructed.
There was another solution posted at the end of November. It involves a rolled hollow section (RHS) that is clamped to the top of the drawbar - see this link - it also gives you an extra working link in the chains.
That is a link to this page Peter?
PeterD said
03:40 PM Dec 24, 2013
03_troopy wrote:
PeterD wrote:
There was another solution posted at the end of November. It involves a rolled hollow section (RHS) that is clamped to the top of the drawbar - see this link - it also gives you an extra working link in the chains.
That is a link to this page Peter?
Tks, I was able to correct the original message but here it is again - see this link
deverall11 said
06:25 PM Dec 24, 2013
patrolst wrote:
Take the whole rig and bars you have to the nearest Hayman Reece dealer/outlet and get them to set it up properly.
Why did the caravan dealer let you drive away with the incorrect set up?
Absolutely. Stop wasting your time and get the dealer to do what you paid him for.
Larry
MOLLUSCAN said
07:19 PM Dec 28, 2013
Thanks to everyone for their comments. Ron has come up with a solution that hopefully will work well and allow us to keep the tool box and leave the gas bottles where they are. I have attached photos. He has added a steel bar bent to follow the HR bar and as you can see from the photos 1) the chain now hangs vertically, 2) there are 4 links in the chain as specified by HR 3) the new bar actually transfers the load back to the correct position on the HR bar, (the sloping part with drilled holes). This setup means the hitch will work as the original hitch. We haven't tried it our yet. Tomorrow is the big day. I'll keep you informed.
Sorry here we go, photos should be there now.
-- Edited by MOLLUSCAN on Saturday 28th of December 2013 07:39:23 PM
-- Edited by MOLLUSCAN on Saturday 28th of December 2013 07:54:54 PM
They don't make 28" bars with the round end. We have a 6" drawbar and need the round end type to avoid scraping when making sharp turns. HR only make 30" bars for this shaped bar.
I WISH I KNEW HOW TO DELETE POSTS!
-- Edited by MOLLUSCAN on Saturday 28th of December 2013 10:01:36 PM
MOLLUSCAN said
07:52 PM Dec 28, 2013
ParamountCruiser wrote:
The WDH bars are available in two lengths, 28" & 30". If your bars are 30" the 28" bars would assist but may not totally solve the problem.
Due to gas bottle position we have to use the 28" bars.
They don't make 28" bars with the round end. We have a 6" drawbar and need the round end type to avoid scraping when making sharp turns. HR only make 30" bars for this shaped bar.
Baz421 said
10:13 PM Jan 6, 2014
MOLLUSCAN wrote:
Thanks to everyone for their comments. Ron has come up with a solution that hopefully will work well and allow us to keep the tool box and leave the gas bottles where they are. I have attached photos. He has added a steel bar bent to follow the HR bar and as you can see from the photos 1) the chain now hangs vertically, 2) there are 4 links in the chain as specified by HR 3) the new bar actually transfers the load back to the correct position on the HR bar, (the sloping part with drilled holes). This setup means the hitch will work as the original hitch. We haven't tried it our yet. Tomorrow is the big day. I'll keep you informed.
Sorry here we go, photos should be there now.
-- Edited by MOLLUSCAN on Saturday 28th of December 2013 07:39:23 PM
-- Edited by MOLLUSCAN on Saturday 28th of December 2013 07:54:54 PM
Hello Grey Nomads,
We have taken delivery of our new van and are attempting to fit a Hayman Reece Load distribution Hitch but there is a problem with installing the unit. We have a tool box and 2 gas bottles sitting on the drawbar and therefore unable to install the hitch such that the chains hang vertically.
Has anyone had this problem? We have come up with a solution but we would like to be sure it is OK. The photo below shows how we have used a D link to enable the chain to be vertical. The first photo shows the angle of the chain necessary due to the placement of the hitch on the drawbar and the second photo shows how the chain can be vertical if we use a D link. The links are purely temporary until we purchase the correct sized link.
Looking forward to hearing your opinions.
Ron, if it was me I would be going back to who ever sold you these and ask for assistance as the way you have them hooked up looks like they serve no purpose. The idea behind the weight distribution hitch is to do as it suggests, distribute the weight. Now what you have done may keep the chain vertical, but the chain is fixed to the bar for a reason and the use of a couple of "D" shackles regardless of their strength would deem the bar ineffective as they would slip and if stopped, by some RTA inspector you might get a defect?? Just my opinion and others on the site might see it differently. The following may assist, and is from Hayman Reese. Good Luck Mate hope the problem can get solved.
Note: On some caravan applications the gas bottle (or other accessories) may need relocation if the chain does not hang vertical.
How much weight should I put on the bars? or Which link should I use?
Whilst there is no answer to suit everyone we do have some good guidelines to follow. Firstly the spring bars should be under a good deal of pressure. It should take some amount of effort to hitch up the snap up bracket and there must be a need to use the handle. Secondly we would like to see a little bit of bend in the bar when under load to satisfy us they are working
Remember, if they have no weight on them they will not be transferring weight forward to the cars front wheels and therefore not doing the job you purchased them for. Thirdly, the number of links can be tricky to calculate depending upon the rigs tow height, mount position of the coupling and set up of the Ballmount. Hayman Reese specify the minimum number of working links to be four. These are the chain links actually under load. At least four are required to give the spring bar the scope it needs to move forwards and backwards when you turn a corner. Hardings will aim for at least five working links so that you have the option of adjustment whilst on your trip.
-- Edited by copper1 on Saturday 21st of December 2013 11:06:11 PM
I agree with copper . If it's not fitted properly it wont work properly .
You may have to make some changes to the draw bar , but that's not a big deal .
A Pic from above would assist greatly.
OJ
Gday...
Perhaps relocate the jockey wheel mount forward so the HR WDH bracket can be mounted between it and the gas bottle support.
Cheers - John
Hi Molluscan
You have only one choice to fit your. WDH. and that is to shift your jockey wheel mounting bracket and a frame cross brace forward towards your coupling just as Rocklizard ,said, that is going by your pictures ,your pictures are a NO NO .
Lance C
Hi we had the same problem,,, as set up by manufacturer the chains ASSISTED body roll when going around corners (ie they were very tight on the inside of the corner),,, changed the opposite (tight chains on outside of corner) to limit body roll and still not 100%.
Our solution was to manufacture plates for each side that sit over the top of the chassis with bolts to hold in place without drilling holes in chassis.
I'll take a photo for you ASAP.
OK photos here for you,,
First one shows A frame and original mount section in middle of the plate and the others different views.
You can have the plates manufactured to fit around any obstacle and the beaty of this is you move them to fine tune adjustment if required.
Hope this helps
Cheers Baz
Yeh, that's a good job Baz hopefully, that will assist Ron with his problem.
Years ago I had a torsion bar system(round hi tensile 1 !/2 ") which( slid inside tubes) on the tow bar
(positive front wheel weight transfer, and anti sway system). Even that system created unstability, and in the end I
fitted heavy duty bolt on helper springs to the rear springs of the tow vehicle. With low tension on the anti sway bars it made driving a dream,
and stability was great. Too much front wheel weight transfer is not the answer to safe towing.
-- Edited by Vanderee on Sunday 22nd of December 2013 11:19:38 AM
Hi Baz421
That set up of yours is a great way of overcoming Molluscan problem,that would be one of the best ways to fix his problem,well done Baz421, you want to put a pation on that great work .
lance C
Gday...
Foolishly stickin' me neck out a bit here ... but - going on the photos put up by Molluscan wouldn't the 'bracket' Baz has devised still be in the way of the existing jockey wheel mounting on Molluscan's A-frame. The jockey wheel and mounting bracket are centrally located on the 'central brace' on Baz's A-frame.
It certainly would negate the interference of the 'central brace' on the A-Frame (if Molluscan has one).
Hopefully Molluscan can provide some clarification and shoot me down in flames.
Cheers - John
Hi John my bracket has the back cut out,,, so it would be the same here. Cheers Baz PS see photo 4 for a view of the back
John, from what I can see the jockey wheel mounting cross member are in similar positions. It's just a simple matter of cutting out the piece to accommodate the cross member to suit the position of that member. The cut-out does not have to be right in the middle as in the one Baz constructed.
There was another solution posted at the end of November. It involves a rolled hollow section (RHS) that is clamped to the top of the drawbar - see this link - it also gives you an extra working link in the chains.
The WDH bars are available in two lengths, 28" & 30". If your bars are 30" the 28" bars would assist but may not totally solve the problem.
Due to gas bottle position we have to use the 28" bars.
Take the whole rig and bars you have to the nearest Hayman Reece dealer/outlet and get them to set it up properly.
Why did the caravan dealer let you drive away with the incorrect set up?
That is a link to this page Peter?
Tks, I was able to correct the original message but here it is again - see this link
Absolutely. Stop wasting your time and get the dealer to do what you paid him for.
Larry
Thanks to everyone for their comments.
Ron has come up with a solution that hopefully will work well and allow us to keep the tool box and leave the gas bottles where they are. I have attached photos. He has added a steel bar bent to follow the HR bar and as you can see from the photos
1) the chain now hangs vertically,
2) there are 4 links in the chain as specified by HR
3) the new bar actually transfers the load back to the correct position on the HR bar, (the sloping part with drilled holes). This setup means the hitch will work as the original hitch.
We haven't tried it our yet. Tomorrow is the big day. I'll keep you informed.
Sorry here we go, photos should be there now.
-- Edited by MOLLUSCAN on Saturday 28th of December 2013 07:39:23 PM
-- Edited by MOLLUSCAN on Saturday 28th of December 2013 07:54:54 PM
Gday...
Don't it jest rot ya sox
the pics didn't load.
Cheers - John
They don't make 28" bars with the round end. We have a 6" drawbar and need the round end type to avoid scraping when making sharp turns. HR only make 30" bars for this shaped bar.
I WISH I KNEW HOW TO DELETE POSTS!
-- Edited by MOLLUSCAN on Saturday 28th of December 2013 10:01:36 PM
They don't make 28" bars with the round end. We have a 6" drawbar and need the round end type to avoid scraping when making sharp turns. HR only make 30" bars for this shaped bar.
Hi there all,, just back after a few days away.
MOLLUSCAN
It loks to me like you have a REECE tow hitch not a Hayman Reece. I have the Reece also from the USA and it looks just like yours.
Cheers Baz