If you were travelling through traffic your brakes will get very warm to hot while stopping and starting, this will cool when you get out on the open road.
They may need adjusting, adjust the adjustment up until the hubs can just move then back of 10 clicks.
The controller could have to much power going to it, I find I need to get them operating correctly then wind the power knob back a bit till they are not grabbing, this can be adjusted with the slide controller.
What boost do you have your controller set at B1, B2 or B3?
I usually run with no boost as I have the controller set to come on prior to the tug brakes.
More on brakes:-
ALKO 1. Brake Adjustment Procedure The brakes fitted to an axle or independent rubber suspension system supplied by AL-KO International are adjusted prior to supply. A brake clean and adjustment should be carried out between the first 300 to 1000 kilometres and then at the service intervals recommended on Page 8. Located in the back of the brake backing plate is a small opening covered by a protective plug. With the trailer wheels off the ground, rotation of the star wheel, (as shown in the diagram below), will result in correct brake adjustment. With a screw driver rotate the star wheel until the brake drag makes it difficult to turn the wheel. The star wheel can then be turned in the opposite direction to allow the trailer wheel to turn 3/4 to 1 revolution freely when spun.
DEXTER Brakes should be adjusted after the first 300 kilometers of operation when the brake shoes and drums have seated, (2) at 5000 km intervals or 3 months whichever comes first or (3) as use and performance requires. The brakes should be adjusted in the following manner: 1. Jack up trailer and secure on adequate capacity jack stands. Follow trailer manufacturers recommendations for lifting and supporting the unit. Check that the wheel and drum rotate freely. 2. Remove the adjusting hold cover from the adjusting slot on the bottom of the brake backing plate. 3. With a screwdriver or standard adjusting tool, rotate the star wheel of the adjust assembly to expand the brake shoes. Adjust the brake shoes out until the pressure of the linings against the drum makes the wheel very difficult to turn. 4. Rotate the star wheel in the opposite direction until the wheel turns freely with a sight lining drag. 5. Replace the adjusting hold cover and lower the wheel to the ground. 6. Repeat the above procedure for all brakes.
Park Brake Cable Adjustment In the laden condition it is imperative that the park brake lever engages and secures the brakes in, its recommended, 5th or 6th notch of the coupling from the tow ball end not closer Failure to adjust the cable tension in this manner will, through suspension movement on both independent suspension and beam axle with leaf springs, cause the brake shoes to be partially actuated and excessive heating of the brake and drums to occur. Prolonged use, if incorrectly adjusted, will cause initially the back (secondary shoe) to overheat to the extent of disintegration of the brake lining and will result in deterioration of brake performance until eventual brake failure.
-- Edited by patrolst on Saturday 3rd of August 2013 07:51:13 AM
Plendo said
05:56 PM Aug 2, 2013
Dianne and Stewart, please remember that stopping your brakes heating is only part of the problem. Make sure you set your controller up properly, AND TEST IT to make sure that it is pulling your van up well. If you leave it till you need it to test it it may be too late to find it does not work as you anticipated.
Also has the added advantage of showing you all those things you need to secure better in the van.
-- Edited by Plendo on Friday 2nd of August 2013 05:57:55 PM
gooba53 said
07:44 PM Aug 2, 2013
I did search previous threads on this but didn't find exactly what we needed, so am asking for your help, please.
We had the prodigy electric brakes serviced Wednesday. drove 15 km home and brakes are grabbing and too hot to touch. Took it back Thursday, bit of adjusting, drove 15km home, same result. Drums too hot to touch and grabbing. Jacked up van, wheels spin ok.
Husband bit mechanical and in his opinion everything looks mechanically ok.
Thoughts please?? Electrical ???
Thanks Dianne and Stuart
Plendo said
09:00 PM Aug 2, 2013
Hi Dianne and Stuart, I should first of all qualify what I say, I am not on the road yet, but have had some experience of electric brakes in the past, and I have some understanding of yow they work.
The fact that the wheels spin freely indicates that the brakes are not set too tight mechanically.
The next stop would be to check what the electric brake unit is doing. Keep the wheel jacked up, and with the car running in neutral with the handbrake on (the hand brake is not connected to the electric brakes), the caravan wheel should still spin freely.
If the wheel spins freely, it indicates the electric brake unit is not stuck on. If you have an electronic ESC fitted to the van, it also indicates that it is not holding the brakes on.
With one person spinning the wheel get the other to apply the brake. The wheel should lock and when the brake is released it should spin freely again (not locking on).
If the wheel does not spin freely in any of the above, then it would indicate an adjustment problem, or a problem with either the brake controller or the ESC. Most likely an adjustment issue.
I almost forgot. If you are one of the people who drive along with your foot hovering on the brake, this could cause problems. As your brake controller will bring your van brakes on as soon as your brake lights come on (sorry, but I had to mention it).
Beyond that you need to start to delve with a multimeter, and you are beyond my limited knowledge and abilities.
I hope this helps you find the problem.
gooba53 said
09:39 PM Aug 2, 2013
Thanks for the reply Plendo. Will let you know how we go.
patrolst said
10:49 PM Aug 2, 2013
Link for tekonsha P3 instructions may be of interest.
If you were travelling through traffic your brakes will get very warm to hot while stopping and starting, this will cool when you get out on the open road.
They may need adjusting, adjust the adjustment up until the hubs can just move then back of 10 clicks.
The controller could have to much power going to it, I find I need to get them operating correctly then wind the power knob back a bit till they are not grabbing, this can be adjusted with the slide controller.
What boost do you have your controller set at B1, B2 or B3?
I usually run with no boost as I have the controller set to come on prior to the tug brakes.
More on brakes:-
ALKO
1. Brake Adjustment Procedure
The brakes fitted to an axle or independent rubber suspension system supplied by AL-KO International are adjusted prior to supply. A brake
clean and adjustment should be carried out between the first 300 to 1000
kilometres and then at the service intervals recommended on Page 8.
Located in the back of the brake backing plate is a small opening covered
by a protective plug. With the trailer wheels off the ground, rotation of the
star wheel, (as shown in the diagram below), will result in correct brake
adjustment. With a screw driver rotate the star wheel until the brake drag
makes it difficult to turn the wheel. The star wheel can then be turned in
the opposite direction to allow the trailer wheel to turn 3/4 to 1 revolution
freely when spun.
DEXTER
Brakes should be adjusted after the first 300 kilometers of operation when the brake shoes and drums have seated, (2) at
5000 km intervals or 3 months whichever comes first or (3) as use and performance requires. The brakes should be
adjusted in the following manner:
1. Jack up trailer and secure on adequate capacity jack stands. Follow trailer manufacturers recommendations for
lifting and supporting the unit. Check that the wheel and drum rotate freely.
2. Remove the adjusting hold cover from the adjusting slot on the bottom of the brake backing plate.
3. With a screwdriver or standard adjusting tool, rotate the star wheel of the adjust assembly to expand the brake
shoes. Adjust the brake shoes out until the pressure of the linings against the drum makes the wheel very difficult
to turn.
4. Rotate the star wheel in the opposite direction until the wheel turns freely with a sight lining drag.
5. Replace the adjusting hold cover and lower the wheel to the ground.
6. Repeat the above procedure for all brakes.
Park Brake Cable Adjustment
In the laden condition it is imperative that the park brake lever engages and
secures the brakes in, its recommended, 5th or 6th notch of the coupling from
the tow ball end not closer
Failure to adjust the cable tension in this manner will, through suspension movement
on both independent suspension and beam axle with leaf springs, cause the brake shoes
to be partially actuated and excessive heating of the brake and drums to occur.
Prolonged use, if incorrectly adjusted, will cause initially the back (secondary shoe)
to overheat to the extent of disintegration of the brake lining and will result in deterioration of brake performance until eventual brake failure.
-- Edited by patrolst on Saturday 3rd of August 2013 07:51:13 AM
Dianne and Stewart, please remember that stopping your brakes heating is only part of the problem. Make sure you set your controller up properly, AND TEST IT to make sure that it is pulling your van up well. If you leave it till you need it to test it it may be too late to find it does not work as you anticipated.
Also has the added advantage of showing you all those things you need to secure better in the van.
-- Edited by Plendo on Friday 2nd of August 2013 05:57:55 PM
I did search previous threads on this but didn't find exactly what we needed, so am asking for your help, please.
We had the prodigy electric brakes serviced Wednesday. drove 15 km home and brakes are grabbing and too hot to touch. Took it back Thursday, bit of adjusting, drove 15km home, same result. Drums too hot to touch and grabbing. Jacked up van, wheels spin ok.
Husband bit mechanical and in his opinion everything looks mechanically ok.
Thoughts please?? Electrical ???
Thanks Dianne and Stuart
The fact that the wheels spin freely indicates that the brakes are not set too tight mechanically.
The next stop would be to check what the electric brake unit is doing. Keep the wheel jacked up, and with the car running in neutral with the handbrake on (the hand brake is not connected to the electric brakes), the caravan wheel should still spin freely.
If the wheel spins freely, it indicates the electric brake unit is not stuck on. If you have an electronic ESC fitted to the van, it also indicates that it is not holding the brakes on.
With one person spinning the wheel get the other to apply the brake. The wheel should lock and when the brake is released it should spin freely again (not locking on).
If the wheel does not spin freely in any of the above, then it would indicate an adjustment problem, or a problem with either the brake controller or the ESC. Most likely an adjustment issue.
I almost forgot. If you are one of the people who drive along with your foot hovering on the brake, this could cause problems. As your brake controller will bring your van brakes on as soon as your brake lights come on (sorry, but I had to mention it).
Beyond that you need to start to delve with a multimeter, and you are beyond my limited knowledge and abilities.
I hope this helps you find the problem.
Thanks for the reply Plendo. Will let you know how we go.
Link for tekonsha P3 instructions may be of interest.
http://www.tekonsha.com/content/videoplayer.aspx?vid=43
And P2
http://www.tekonsha.com/content/videoplayer.aspx?vid=145
We should get it done I reckon, got a few options now. Will let you know how we go. Thanks again .
I forgot to add that our braking system is "Dexter" and our van doesn't have an breakerway system as the van is under 2tonne.
Believe brake issue is resolved going to B1 boost and pressure setting in computer at 6.1. We have the prodigy P3.
Thank you folks for taking the time to provide the links and comments. Much appreciated .