This is what I'm thinking of doing please correct me if I'm wrong. I want to run my Fridge/Freezer in the back of our Suzuki when being towed by our motorhome. I am thinking of running 6mm cable of my house batteries of the motorhome to a 50amp Anderson plug mounted on the bumper bar of the motorhome approx.4mtrs max,then installing a cigarette lighter in the back of the Suzuki and running 6mm cable to a 50amp Anderson plug to bumper bar of Suzuki approx.2mtrs,then make up a short lead Anderson type to join 2 vehicles together when towed approx.1.5mtr. What do you think ? Anything I should know doing it this way? Is there another way ? Should have mentioned it is a 95l Fridgemate esky. Thanks
-- Edited by goldcoaster on Tuesday 2nd of July 2013 10:06:52 AM
Wombat 280 said
08:36 PM Jul 2, 2013
Workout the load current draw in amps and just see how long the battery can handle the load before going flat or between charges, you will lose a little in voltage over distance between battery and load (Fridge)
Bunkerbob said
12:28 AM Jul 3, 2013
If you only have the one battery, just be careful how long it is left without the motor running. If possible put a solenoid between the battery and the truck Anderson plug. Running a battery operated fridge is not a problem, just don't try running a gas fridge at all when moving. A 240 volt is also discouraged as the length of the extension cord is prohibitive.
justcruisin01 said
03:18 AM Jul 3, 2013
goldcoaster wrote:
Hi all,
This is what I'm thinking of doing please correct me if I'm wrong. I want to run my Fridge/Freezer in the back of our Suzuki when being towed by our motorhome. I am thinking of running 6mm cable of my house batteries of the motorhome to a 50amp Anderson plug mounted on the bumper bar of the motorhome approx.4mtrs max,then installing a cigarette lighter in the back of the Suzuki and running 6mm cable to a 50amp Anderson plug to bumper bar of Suzuki approx.2mtrs,then make up a short lead Anderson type to join 2 vehicles together when towed approx.1.5mtr. What do you think ? Anything I should know doing it this way? Is there another way ? Should have mentioned it is a 95l Fridgemate esky. Thanks
-- Edited by goldcoaster on Tuesday 2nd of July 2013 10:06:52 AM
Providing you have adaquit charging system to the house batteries, the only mistake i see is the cigarette lighter s****et as they are bad news when it comes to running a fridge. Replace this with a anderson as well. Do check the fridge amps against the wire capacity over that distance, if there is too much voltage drop then the fridge will consume more amps to compensate the volts drop. If the fridge uses approx 5amps then I think you should be ok.
JC
briche said
04:06 AM Jul 3, 2013
Hi Goldcoaster, agree with all those comments about cable size, voltage drop, load current. Everything you has to make sure that all connections need to be of sufficient capacity to ensure that the voltage drop is as low as possible. One aspect that doesneed to be addressed is that of disconnecting the charging line when you have stopped. As mentioned by Wombat there is only so much battery capacity available to do the job and if it's too long then it's flat battery. I got around the issue by installing a Fridge Switch that disconnects the fridge from the charging system about 2 minutes aft the caravan has stopped. The unit uses a motion sensor that detects that everything has stopped and disconnects the fridge. When you start moving off again it starts the charging process. The unit has a current capacity of about 30 amps and will cope with most needs.
They are available from most caravan accessory places. I've had our running for about 9 months and have had no hassles.
Hope that helps
Brian
goldcoaster said
12:39 PM Jul 3, 2013
Thanks to all.
I have 2 x 120a/h gel batteries,the fridge draws 4.2amps at max., and it will only be drawing power when motorhome is in transit.we take it out when we arrive at our destination or hook it up to 240v when CP. Already tried my solar panels on it,they work well keeping up with fridge.
Brian where do you install this fridge switch.
JC thanks again but as for changing plug (cigarette connector) I use it in another vehicle and don't want to change the lead.
Has anyone else had problems with their cigarette lead on a fridge.
Cheers Mick
Sol said
01:19 AM Jul 4, 2013
Mick, I'd get rid of the Cig Plug and replace it with an Andersen Plug also. Father in Law had cig plug on his fridge and on the first trip it melted in the socket. The Fridge Switch is a great idea also. Good luck mate.
Cheers Sol
justcruisin01 said
05:02 AM Jul 4, 2013
goldcoaster wrote:
Thanks to all.
I have 2 x 120a/h gel batteries,the fridge draws 4.2amps at max., and it will only be drawing power when motorhome is in transit.we take it out when we arrive at our destination or hook it up to 240v when CP. Already tried my solar panels on it,they work well keeping up with fridge.
Brian where do you install this fridge switch.
JC thanks again but as for changing plug (cigarette connector) I use it in another vehicle and don't want to change the lead.
Has anyone else had problems with their cigarette lead on a fridge.
Cheers Mick
Like Sol has said , they melt & I have seen plenty of them do it. If not fused at battery they could end up on fire. Change the other vehicles cig as well.
JC.
briche said
05:38 AM Jul 4, 2013
Hi Goldcoaster, agree with all those comments about cable size, voltage drop, load current. Everything you as to make sure that all connections need to be of sufficient capacity to ensure that the voltage drop is as low as possible. One aspect that doesneed to be addressed is that of disconnecting the charging line when you have stopped. As mentioned by Wombat there is only so much battery capacity available to do the job and if it's too long then it's flat battery. I got around the issue by installing a Fridge Switch that disconnects the fridge from the charging system about 2 minutes aft the caravan has stopped. The unit uses a motion sensor that detects that everything has stopped and disconnects the fridge. When you start moving off again it starts the charging process. The unit has a current capacity of about 30 amps and will cope with most needs.
They are available from most caravan accessory places. I've had our running for about 9 months and have had no hassles.
Hope that helps
Brian
Not sure what is happening with the reply function Goldcoaster but here goes. In my case it's mounted under the fridge it's self where in my case the water pump is as well. The important thing is that it must be fitted flat as the instructions state as it has to sense the movement of the van. It's connected in the 12 volt supply line to the fridge. The unit has the switching relay that connects or disconnects the 12 volt supply. After you stop the relay switches the fridge off after about 2 mins. Once you move off it reconnects the 12 volt supply. hope that clears up any issues for you.
03_troopy said
06:44 PM Jul 4, 2013
Just a note on the wire size:
6mm Auto wire approx = 4.6mmsq CCA - app voltage drop over 7.5M at 4.2A = 243mV, end voltage = 11.76V
6mmsq CCA - app voltage drop over 7.5M at 4.2A = 186mV, end voltage = 11.81V
6 guage B&S (AWG) = 13.3mmsq CCA - app voltage drop over 7.5M at 4.2A = 84mV, end voltage = 11.92V
Depending upon whether you are talking about 6mm auto wire or 6mmsq conductor cross-sectional area, there is a fair bit of difference. Personally I'd recommend going at least 8mmsq (8g B&S) or better yet, 6 B&S guage. The latter is a bit more expensive though.
Note, the numbers are approximate so don't hang me over a couple of decimal places
-- Edited by 03_troopy on Thursday 4th of July 2013 06:46:16 PM
-- Edited by 03_troopy on Thursday 4th of July 2013 06:47:33 PM
goldcoaster said
10:30 PM Jul 4, 2013
I wonder if cutting the plug (cigarette) end off,will nullify my 5 yr warranty. Will have to check with EVAKOOL/Fridgemate. Cheers Guy's
goldcoaster said
04:47 PM Jul 5, 2013
Thanks Troopy but it is all foreign to me.
I'm using 4.59mm squared , Stranding 57/0.32 , 10 gauge , 38 amp rated @ 30 deg. ambient temperature. These are the specs. that came with it , all I need to know is it good enough for the job I'm doing.
Thanks again Mick
goldcoaster said
05:58 PM Jul 5, 2013
Just received email back from Evakool , warranty on Fridge is still good but they won't warrant lead if I cut cig plug off. Looks like we lose the cig plug for Anderson plug.
Thanks again.
Ontos45 said
07:57 PM Jul 5, 2013
Forget the 50Amp Anderson plug goldcoaster and use a 75Amp Anderson mate as easier to fit large diameter cable and solder, not clamp only. Had Anderson plug come adrift because not soldered.
peter
03_troopy said
02:45 AM Jul 8, 2013
The wire you listed is 6mm auto wire goldcoaster. Personally I'd go bigger to at least 8mm sq (8guage B&S). The 50A Anderson plug is ample size and the 75A is way overkill. To fit 8mm sq to a 50A Anderson plug you can either fold the end of the bared wire over before inserting it into the barrel and crimp it, or just solder it in unfolded. The barrels of the contacts on the 50A plug is designed to take 16mm cable anyway. If you use 75A plugs, the contact barrels are way too big. They will comfortably fit 50mm (0guage B&S) sq cable for crimping, which is what we use on the trucks we fit out for mine service vehicles.
Hi all,
This is what I'm thinking of doing please correct me if I'm wrong. I want to run my Fridge/Freezer in the back of our Suzuki when being towed by our motorhome. I am thinking of running 6mm cable of my house batteries of the motorhome to a 50amp Anderson plug mounted on the bumper bar of the motorhome approx.4mtrs max,then installing a cigarette lighter in the back of the Suzuki and running 6mm cable to a 50amp Anderson plug to bumper bar of Suzuki approx.2mtrs,then make up a short lead Anderson type to join 2 vehicles together when towed approx.1.5mtr. What do you think ? Anything I should know doing it this way? Is there another way ? Should have mentioned it is a 95l Fridgemate esky. Thanks
-- Edited by goldcoaster on Tuesday 2nd of July 2013 10:06:52 AM
Providing you have adaquit charging system to the house batteries, the only mistake i see is the cigarette lighter s****et as they are bad news when it comes to running a fridge. Replace this with a anderson as well. Do check the fridge amps against the wire capacity over that distance, if there is too much voltage drop then the fridge will consume more amps to compensate the volts drop. If the fridge uses approx 5amps then I think you should be ok.
JC
Hi Goldcoaster, agree with all those comments about cable size, voltage drop, load current. Everything you has to make sure that all connections need to be of sufficient capacity to ensure that the voltage drop is as low as possible. One aspect that doesneed to be addressed is that of disconnecting the charging line when you have stopped. As mentioned by Wombat there is only so much battery capacity available to do the job and if it's too long then it's flat battery. I got around the issue by installing a Fridge Switch that disconnects the fridge from the charging system about 2 minutes aft the caravan has stopped. The unit uses a motion sensor that detects that everything has stopped and disconnects the fridge. When you start moving off again it starts the charging process. The unit has a current capacity of about 30 amps and will cope with most needs.
They are available from most caravan accessory places. I've had our running for about 9 months and have had no hassles.
Hope that helps
Brian
I have 2 x 120a/h gel batteries,the fridge draws 4.2amps at max., and it will only be drawing power when motorhome is in transit.we take it out when we arrive at our destination or hook it up to 240v when CP. Already tried my solar panels on it,they work well keeping up with fridge.
Brian where do you install this fridge switch.
JC thanks again but as for changing plug (cigarette connector) I use it in another vehicle and don't want to change the lead.
Has anyone else had problems with their cigarette lead on a fridge.
Cheers
Mick
I'd get rid of the Cig Plug and replace it with an Andersen Plug also.
Father in Law had cig plug on his fridge and on the first trip it melted in the socket.
The Fridge Switch is a great idea also.
Good luck mate.
Cheers Sol
Like Sol has said , they melt & I have seen plenty of them do it. If not fused at battery they could end up on fire. Change the other vehicles cig as well.
JC.
Hi Goldcoaster, agree with all those comments about cable size, voltage drop, load current. Everything you as to make sure that all connections need to be of sufficient capacity to ensure that the voltage drop is as low as possible. One aspect that doesneed to be addressed is that of disconnecting the charging line when you have stopped. As mentioned by Wombat there is only so much battery capacity available to do the job and if it's too long then it's flat battery. I got around the issue by installing a Fridge Switch that disconnects the fridge from the charging system about 2 minutes aft the caravan has stopped. The unit uses a motion sensor that detects that everything has stopped and disconnects the fridge. When you start moving off again it starts the charging process. The unit has a current capacity of about 30 amps and will cope with most needs.
They are available from most caravan accessory places. I've had our running for about 9 months and have had no hassles.
Hope that helps
Brian
Not sure what is happening with the reply function Goldcoaster but here goes. In my case it's mounted under the fridge it's self where in my case the water pump is as well. The important thing is that it must be fitted flat as the instructions state as it has to sense the movement of the van. It's connected in the 12 volt supply line to the fridge. The unit has the switching relay that connects or disconnects the 12 volt supply. After you stop the relay switches the fridge off after about 2 mins. Once you move off it reconnects the 12 volt supply. hope that clears up any issues for you.
Just a note on the wire size:
6mm Auto wire approx = 4.6mmsq CCA - app voltage drop over 7.5M at 4.2A = 243mV, end voltage = 11.76V
6mmsq CCA - app voltage drop over 7.5M at 4.2A = 186mV, end voltage = 11.81V
6 guage B&S (AWG) = 13.3mmsq CCA - app voltage drop over 7.5M at 4.2A = 84mV, end voltage = 11.92V
Depending upon whether you are talking about 6mm auto wire or 6mmsq conductor cross-sectional area, there is a fair bit of difference. Personally I'd recommend going at least 8mmsq (8g B&S) or better yet, 6 B&S guage. The latter is a bit more expensive though.
Note, the numbers are approximate so don't hang me over a couple of decimal places
-- Edited by 03_troopy on Thursday 4th of July 2013 06:46:16 PM
-- Edited by 03_troopy on Thursday 4th of July 2013 06:47:33 PM
I'm using 4.59mm squared , Stranding 57/0.32 , 10 gauge , 38 amp rated @ 30 deg. ambient temperature. These are the specs. that came with it , all I need to know is it good enough for the job I'm doing.
Thanks again Mick
Thanks again.
peter